Redline 5w50

[dparm]

Originally Posted by 330indy

Read up on Redline and about VIIs.
Oil is a lot thicker at 0 and 32 degrees than 70, or 80 degrees

Red Line uses VIIs, it's as simple as that. They have never claimed not to have VIIs, only that they "need less than others" (or whatever the exact wording was) because of the naturally high VIs of the base oils. They will never tell you the exact types and percentages as its proprietary. Feel free to call/email them directly and ask about VII content in the 10w60. Their answer will be "it doesn't have none." This has been talked about on BITOG plenty of times.

I'm not sure why people panic when they hear something has a VII anyway. Pretty much everything has it and if VIIs caused problems, we'd hear about engines blowing left and right due to oil starvation, improper lubrication, etc. But it's your car and your money, so do what you want.


And LOL, I understand that oil gets thicker/thinner with temperature changes. What kind of pleb do you take me for? ;-)
http://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Graph.html

[G80indy]

Originally Posted by dparm

Red Line uses VIIs, it's as simple as that. They have never claimed not to have VIIs, only that they "need less than others" (or whatever the exact wording was) because of the naturally high VIs of the base oils. They will never tell you the exact types and percentages as its proprietary. Feel free to call/email them directly and ask about VII content in the 10w60. Their answer will be "it doesn't have none." This has been talked about on BITOG plenty of times.

I'm not sure why people panic when they hear something has a VII anyway. Pretty much everything has it and if VIIs caused problems, we'd hear about engines blowing left and right due to oil starvation, improper lubrication, etc. But it's your car and your money, so do what you want.


And LOL, I understand that oil gets thicker/thinner with temperature changes. What kind of pleb do you take me for? ;-)
http://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Graph.html

Couldn't care less about BITOG.
It's quite simple:
VIIs break down and reduce oil film strength over life of the oil.
Shear, heat, fuel dilution, contaminants, etc all attack your oil's original specs for adequate protection.
Significant with OCIs out to 5k+ miles in a race engine like the S65.
I want every advantage, and that includes oil.
My opinion, and experience with Redline. You don't have to agree at all. That's fine with me.


https://www.redlineoil.com/content/f...PDS%205-13.pdf

[dparm]

Originally Posted by 330indy

Couldn't care less about BITOG.

That's fine, but you're missing out on a wealth of information from people who actually work in the industry (such as member Doug Hilary, one of the original chemists who developed and updated TWS over the years).

Keep us posted on what you use. Red Line 10w60 isn't too popular so any data we can get is useful.

[admranger]

Originally Posted by dparm

Keep us posted on what you use. Red Line 10w60 isn't too popular so any data we can get is useful.

I think its limited local availability is what makes it less popular. You could always get Castrol at the dealer (until recently) but you couldn't always find RL at even the specialty auto parts stores (I went once and their entire stock of 10w-60 was picked clean and they didn't know when they'd get more in.

FWIW I exclusively ran RedLine in the race car, so it's not like I don't like them or anything.

[G80indy]

http://lnengineering.com/resources/2...ut-motor-oils/
http://www.ttalk.info/Zddp.htm

[G80indy]

Originally Posted by dparm

That's fine, but you're missing out on a wealth of information from people who actually work in the industry (such as member Doug Hilary, one of the original chemists who developed and updated TWS over the years).

Keep us posted on what you use. Red Line 10w60 isn't too popular so any data we can get is useful.

By the way I corresponded directly with Doug H. years ago, about the details of TWS, when it was still the good stuff.
Out of warranty I'd *consider* a blend of RL 5w50 with 10w60.....

[G80indy]

[G80indy]

[G80indy]

About to change it out
with (6) 10w60 + (3) 5w50

[dparm]

Originally Posted by 330indy

About to change it out
with (6) 10w60 + (3) 5w50

Please provide us with oil pressure & temp data, if you can.

[Doc Oc]

Originally Posted by 330indy

About to change it out
with (6) 10w60 + (3) 5w50

Why mix the two when the rl 5w50 is so close in viscosity to tws anyway? In fact the uoa's show that once it sheers, tws is actually a little thinner than the rl 5w50.

[Hujan]

Originally Posted by Doc Oc

Why mix the two when the rl 5w50 is so close in viscosity to tws anyway? In fact the uoa's show that once it sheers, tws is actually a little thinner than the rl 5w50.

Really? Not doubting you, but interested in seeing that data.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by Hujan

Really? Not doubting you, but interested in seeing that data.

Anecdotal evidence (inference via UOA?) is that TWS tends to stabilize around HTHS of 4.5. Red Line 5w50 has a virgin HTHS of 5.0.

[G80indy]

Originally Posted by dparm

Anecdotal evidence (inference via UOA?) is that TWS tends to stabilize around HTHS of 4.5. Red Line 5w50 has a virgin HTHS of 5.0.

As you've said before at BITOG there is anecdotal evidence that the HTHS of TWS aggravated bearing issues.
It is not the gold standard

And is why I like and choose RL for film strength

[Doc Oc]

I was running a 50/50 mix of rl 0w40 and 5w50 when my engine failed coincidentally. Can't imagine there is any connection but I switched to m1 0w50 and am very happy with it so far. Not sure how it shears yet but will have a uoa on it soon.

[Doc Oc]

Originally Posted by Hujan

Really? Not doubting you, but interested in seeing that data.

Use Google images to find the uoa's. Everyone knows rl runs a little thick but I was surprised just how thick it really was. Their tws has a virgin kinematic viscosity@100c of 25.9 (5w50 is 21.x) whereas Castrol tws is 22.7. The difference only gets larger after shearing.

Rl 5w50 after shear is around 19 while tws I've seen as low as 16 online, but my uoa said 17.9.

[G80indy]

9 quarts in as planned.
Then my tech said it reads 1 quart low after test drive.
Drove home to top off.
Added precisely 1/2 quart
Look at that!

So lesson learned:
If it says 1 quart low, it's lying to you!
Add a half quart. Wait to see how it measures.

(Easy to see how people are getting the overfilled message after doing what the car told them to do!)

[buddalun]

Originally Posted by 330indy

9 quarts in as planned.
Then my tech said it reads 1 quart low after test drive.
Drove home to top off.
Added precisely 1/2 quart
Look at that!

So lesson learned:
If it says 1 quart low, it's lying to you!
Add a half quart. Wait to see how it measures.

(Easy to see how people are getting the overfilled message after doing what the car told them to do!)

Did you "feel" any difference with the RL blend of 10W60 & 5W50? TIA

[G80indy]

Slightly cooler operating temp.
Engine purrs, just the same

[G80indy]

Redline oil- best stuff you can put in a bottle

[STR8-6IX]

try not to mix oils.

just run a 10w60 or 50 in the summer and 5w40 in the winter

[dparm]

Originally Posted by 6IX-F10-N52

try not to mix oils.

just run a 10w60 or 50 in the summer and 5w40 in the winter

Mixing oils is totally fine. Red Line, Motul, and others even recommend you do it if you need some sort of custom viscosity. As long as the chemistries are similar (e.g. Motul 300V 5w40 + Motul 300V 20w60), you're fine. I wouldn't make it a habit of doing oil cocktails of Mobil 1 + Castrol + Renewable Lube + Motul, etc.

For API certification, it's actually a requirement that the oil be mixable with other API oils.