Rod bearings question

[ThatWhiteM3]

Hello everyone. So if there is a rod bearing knocking would it be constant or it can come and go? Sometimes I get little knocks once In a while but they go away. Any thoughts?

[Get lit]

Originally Posted by ThatWhiteM3

Hello everyone. So if there is a rod bearing knocking would it be constant or it can come and go? Sometimes I get little knocks once In a while but they go away. Any thoughts?

Rod bearing knock is consistent. Once it starts knocking it continues.

[GabeS]

NOOOOOOOOOooooooo not another thread on this!!! did you post in the 600 threads about rod bearings that already exist?

[ThatWhiteM3]

Originally Posted by GabeS

NOOOOOOOOOooooooo not another thread on this!!! did you post in the 600 threads about rod bearings that already exist?

I believe it's my second question regarding rod bearings that I have ever asked. And I didn't find any answer on my specific question regarding it so

[GabeS]

so the question should be asked in the same threads that already exist since so many people already comment in it you would get more answer and not need to start a whole new thread.

[R3dliner]

oh no not another RB thread. Seems to be at least 1 thread every day lol

OP your bearings are toast man. Might seize up anyday

[loveskiing]

Originally Posted by R3dliner

oh no not another RB thread. Seems to be at least 1 thread every day lol

OP your bearings are toast man. Might seize up anyday

I know that you're probably making a joke but not a day goes by that I'm not totally consumed by rod bearings. I think about them at work, in the shower, at the gym, and even now in my dreams. I thought if I changed them with every oil change, that would suffice but they're like Zombies, they refuse to die. What's a guy to do?

[Rcase]

Originally Posted by ThatWhiteM3

Hello everyone. So if there is a rod bearing knocking would it be constant or it can come and go? Sometimes I get little knocks once In a while but they go away. Any thoughts?

As others mentioned it's consistent. Definitely consider a black stone if 2008-2010 and read the large thread. Mine were completely gone at 49k.

[///M Power-Belgium]

Originally Posted by ThatWhiteM3

Hello everyone. So if there is a rod bearing knocking would it be constant or it can come and go? Sometimes I get little knocks once In a while but they go away. Any thoughts?

Once it knocks it's already game over..

[ThatWhiteM3]

Originally Posted by Rcase

As others mentioned it's consistent. Definitely consider a black stone if 2008-2010 and read the large thread. Mine were completely gone at 49k.

So I get a black stone results what am I looking for in metal particles?

[SYT_Shadow]

if you get blackstone and lead and copper come out in significant issues and you have a 2007-2010, your rod bearings are toast

[Rcase]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

if you get blackstone and lead and copper come out in significant issues and you have a 2007-2010, your rod bearings are toast

Precisely as he said - it will show the average as well as your results. Order the kit for free and get it in ASAP. My counts were 10x higher than normal (on lead). As I mentioned, the 2011+ cars use a modified rod bearing.

[Bus Driver]

Not meaning to jack this thread but rather than posting another thread on RB:
Would we need to run in the engine after changing the rod bearings? Thanks.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Bus Driver

Not meaning to jack this thread but rather than posting another thread on RB:
Would we need to run in the engine after changing the rod bearings? Thanks.

I asked a couple places. The answer is no. You can run them to redline immediately.

Remember, rod bearings are never supposed to contact the crank in the first place.

I also am told that you should flush out the oil after 3-4k to remove assembly lube/bolt lube

[Bus Driver]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

I asked a couple places. The answer is no. You can run them to redline immediately.

Remember, rod bearings are never supposed to contact the crank in the first place.

I also am told that you should flush out the oil after 3-4k to remove assembly lube/bolt lube

Thanks SYT,
The workshop recommend to run in for 2k kms not above 4000rpm to let the bearings sit properly. how can I live with that!

[abeardo83]

Originally Posted by ThatWhiteM3

Hello everyone. So if there is a rod bearing knocking would it be constant or it can come and go? Sometimes I get little knocks once In a while but they go away. Any thoughts?

Knocks every once in a while will probably be knock caused by lower quality fuel. Do you use super unleaded fuel?

[kawasaki00]

Originally Posted by Bus Driver

Thanks SYT,
The workshop recommend to run in for 2k kms not above 4000rpm to let the bearings sit properly. how can I live with that!

Not necessary. Once the engine is up to temperature it is good to go.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Bus Driver

Thanks SYT,
The workshop recommend to run in for 2k kms not above 4000rpm to let the bearings sit properly. how can I live with that!

I have driven my E90 hard after the rod bearing replacement

I contacted two reputable shops who both confirmed there's no break in

[ThatWhiteM3]

Originally Posted by abeardo83

Knocks every once in a while will probably be knock caused by lower quality fuel. Do you use super unleaded fuel?

Yes sir. Always using top grade

[DGM33]

I appreciate this thread because apparently this is an old topic but those of us new to it can't seem to find a straight answer even searching back through hundreds of old pages. I just bought a '10 E93 with 21k miles. Purrs like a kitten. But now reading through here I'm stressed that maybe I should have kept my Subaru BRZ... They only have engine crickets that sound bad but don't kill the motor!

At any rate, most of the threads I've seen are making jokes about the issue or blowing off us newbies. Should I get my car in right away to check it out? And should I go to a BMW dealer or a "German Specialty" type shop?

Thanks!

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by DGM33

I appreciate this thread because apparently this is an old topic but those of us new to it can't seem to find a straight answer even searching back through hundreds of old pages. I just bought a '10 E93 with 21k miles. Purrs like a kitten. But now reading through here I'm stressed that maybe I should have kept my Subaru BRZ... They only have engine crickets that sound bad but don't kill the motor!

At any rate, most of the threads I've seen are making jokes about the issue or blowing off us newbies. Should I get my car in right away to check it out? And should I go to a BMW dealer or a "German Specialty" type shop?

Thanks!

It really depends on what kind of person you are.

On the E46 M3, I had read of 'vanos hub issues' before I bought the car. When I did buy it, as soon as someone built an indestructible vanos hub (turbotoy v3) I changed out my functioning OEM one for the TTv3 and built a DIY for it.

Later I started hearing about rod bearings needing replacement on that engine around 100k miles. I got new oem ones and built a DIY about it as well.

On the E9X, there is clearly an issue with rod bearings as well. It's a pretty indestructible platform which is really nice, but the rod bearings have to be solved.
Eventually BE Bearings built something which I trust enough to install.

I have an E92 M3 in storage over winter with 30k miles on stock bearings. I bought an additional E90 M3 in October with 36k miles and after a few weekends installed the BE bearings.
The stock E90 M3 ones showed way too much wear for 36k miles.

The E92 is finally out of storage and the first thing that happened is it got its bearings replaced. With only 30k miles they were beat to crap with chunks missing. They look significantly worse than my 130k miles E46M bearings.
The car is still under warranty but I don't want to chance my engine blowing sky high. I bought that car new and expect it to live a long and fruitful life consuming liquid dinosaur with the engine that came with the car

There is no way this is normal wear.

There's a DIY in my sig. You can do this yourself, or contact a shop. Kaiv and Playskool, two guys on the west coast, are very good and I wouldn't hesitate to have them work on my car.
Based on the hundreds of pages I've read on the subject, I strongly recommend the BE bearings and BE-ARP bolts.