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      09-14-2020, 08:27 PM   #67
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      09-14-2020, 11:56 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by delta0401 View Post
I am unfortunate enough to be going through my 2nd valve spring failure. First was on cylinder #5 which was fixed under aftermarket warranty in April 2020 at a grand total of over $10K. Fast forward, four months in August 2020 and a second valve spring in Cylinder #8 brakes just after warranty expires. Dealer quotes over $8K for this to be fixed.
Oof.

Fak.

Wow.

That is terrible.
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      09-15-2020, 02:23 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delta0401 View Post
I am unfortunate enough to be going through my 2nd valve spring failure. First was on cylinder #5 which was fixed under aftermarket warranty in April 2020 at a grand total of over $10K. Fast forward, four months in August 2020 and a second valve spring in Cylinder #8 brakes just after warranty expires. Dealer quotes over $8K for this to be fixed.
Did they replace just the broken valve spring under warranty? Or all 32 valve springs?
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      09-15-2020, 07:29 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by djsilverjohnson View Post
How did this work out for you?

I see several possible outcomes in the event of a broken valve spring;

1. The engine runs rough, but the valve spring retainer stays in place and the valve doesn't drop far into the combustion chamber. In this case, depending on the engine design, the piston may strike the valve without major damage, or it may break the head off the valve and cause major collateral damage.

2. The release of spring pressure takes tension off the spring retainer and the vibration causes the collars to fall out and release the spring retainer. If that happens, the valve falls into the combustion chamber and causes major collateral damage.
Dash lit up with the CEL, car went into limp mode. I was able to drive it to a safe place to get towed about 1.5 miles away. Engine was sputtering terribly and stalled out a couple times while trying to get it on/off the flatbed.

Apparently, there wasn't any other major damage as they were able to repair the spring. I didn't have a warranty, so i paid out of pocket, about $3,100 to replace the one spring. Honestly, I've been thinking about selling the car ever since, but I have put on 850 miles since the repair. Haven't been driving hard, but i've taken it up to 7-8k rpms and all seems... fine. I used to go on canyon runs often and I haven't done one since. Just nervous I guess, which take out all the fun of owning one of these cars.

The service advisor said that I should do an oil change at 1K miles post-repair and every 2-3K miles thereafter...

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRussski View Post
Did you hear any kind of rattling prior? Or just the dash lights?
No rattling. I was going uphill at the time, so I was in 3rd gear for about 2 minutes or so... but it was gentle driving. Seems like the valve spring gave out on the spot.
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      09-15-2020, 07:45 PM   #71
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I know of another M3 that also had a valve spring failure around 70k.

Is there anything we can do to prevent these? More oil changes?
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      09-15-2020, 07:46 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by delta0401 View Post
I am unfortunate enough to be going through my 2nd valve spring failure. First was on cylinder #5 which was fixed under aftermarket warranty in April 2020 at a grand total of over $10K. Fast forward, four months in August 2020 and a second valve spring in Cylinder #8 brakes just after warranty expires. Dealer quotes over $8K for this to be fixed.
Hey man - really sorry to hear about this. Hope you can get it fixed. The $8K sounds high, but not sure if there was any other damage that may need to be repaired as a result of the broken spring. Either way, this particular issue really sucks. Paying for a brand new engine thats likely worth more than the car doesnt seem like a reasonable option. I hope it all works out for you.

If you're up for it, I'd be interested to know what warranty you had and the cost for something like that. I may keep a warranty on the car or sell, not sure...
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      09-20-2020, 07:46 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E9T.two View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by djsilverjohnson View Post
How did this work out for you?

I see several possible outcomes in the event of a broken valve spring;

1. The engine runs rough, but the valve spring retainer stays in place and the valve doesn't drop far into the combustion chamber. In this case, depending on the engine design, the piston may strike the valve without major damage, or it may break the head off the valve and cause major collateral damage.

2. The release of spring pressure takes tension off the spring retainer and the vibration causes the collars to fall out and release the spring retainer. If that happens, the valve falls into the combustion chamber and causes major collateral damage.
Dash lit up with the CEL, car went into limp mode. I was able to drive it to a safe place to get towed about 1.5 miles away. Engine was sputtering terribly and stalled out a couple times while trying to get it on/off the flatbed.

Apparently, there wasn't any other major damage as they were able to repair the spring. I didn't have a warranty, so i paid out of pocket, about $3,100 to replace the one spring. Honestly, I've been thinking about selling the car ever since, but I have put on 850 miles since the repair. Haven't been driving hard, but i've taken it up to 7-8k rpms and all seems... fine. I used to go on canyon runs often and I haven't done one since. Just nervous I guess, which take out all the fun of owning one of these cars.

The service advisor said that I should do an oil change at 1K miles post-repair and every 2-3K miles thereafter...

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRussski View Post
Did you hear any kind of rattling prior? Or just the dash lights?
No rattling. I was going uphill at the time, so I was in 3rd gear for about 2 minutes or so... but it was gentle driving. Seems like the valve spring gave out on the spot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by E9T.two View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by djsilverjohnson View Post
How did this work out for you?

I see several possible outcomes in the event of a broken valve spring;

1. The engine runs rough, but the valve spring retainer stays in place and the valve doesn't drop far into the combustion chamber. In this case, depending on the engine design, the piston may strike the valve without major damage, or it may break the head off the valve and cause major collateral damage.

2. The release of spring pressure takes tension off the spring retainer and the vibration causes the collars to fall out and release the spring retainer. If that happens, the valve falls into the combustion chamber and causes major collateral damage.
Dash lit up with the CEL, car went into limp mode. I was able to drive it to a safe place to get towed about 1.5 miles away. Engine was sputtering terribly and stalled out a couple times while trying to get it on/off the flatbed.

Apparently, there wasn't any other major damage as they were able to repair the spring. I didn't have a warranty, so i paid out of pocket, about $3,100 to replace the one spring. Honestly, I've been thinking about selling the car ever since, but I have put on 850 miles since the repair. Haven't been driving hard, but i've taken it up to 7-8k rpms and all seems... fine. I used to go on canyon runs often and I haven't done one since. Just nervous I guess, which take out all the fun of owning one of these cars.

The service advisor said that I should do an oil change at 1K miles post-repair and every 2-3K miles thereafter...

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRussski View Post
Did you hear any kind of rattling prior? Or just the dash lights?
No rattling. I was going uphill at the time, so I was in 3rd gear for about 2 minutes or so... but it was gentle driving. Seems like the valve spring gave out on the spot.

I have the same issue, driving her lightly, then hit limp mode. Car was shaking, my vorsteiner titanium exhaust sounded like crap. Threw code p0306. Towed the car to a shop, replaced all ignition coils and plugs still misfiring cylinder 6. Ran compression test and bank 6 has 0 COMPRESSION.

I'm now informed that it could be my Valve spring. I got quoted labor/ parts to replace the issue of 5500. Requires around 30 hrs/labor.

I'm about to give them the Okay to open the head, send it to a machine shop and replace the all 4 springs on driver side.

Are you/ did you have the same issue as me? I wanna know forsure before I drop more money. Already 4k in the hole and don't wanna drop another 5500.
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      09-20-2020, 09:02 PM   #74
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Well, OK! I've got a set of Supertech valve springs on my watchlist. I guess this will be a good warmup before attacking the connecting rod bearings...., I've changed valve springs and retainers on several overhead valve and overhead cam engines without pulling the heads, so I understand the general procedure. newtis.info procedure for valve spring changes start with the heads off the engine, but I'm sure the predecessor procedures will show how to remove the timing gear and cams without breaking them. Anyone know of a link to a DIY?
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      09-24-2020, 04:01 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooba_Steeve View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by E9T.two View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by djsilverjohnson View Post
How did this work out for you?

I see several possible outcomes in the event of a broken valve spring;

1. The engine runs rough, but the valve spring retainer stays in place and the valve doesn't drop far into the combustion chamber. In this case, depending on the engine design, the piston may strike the valve without major damage, or it may break the head off the valve and cause major collateral damage.

2. The release of spring pressure takes tension off the spring retainer and the vibration causes the collars to fall out and release the spring retainer. If that happens, the valve falls into the combustion chamber and causes major collateral damage.
Dash lit up with the CEL, car went into limp mode. I was able to drive it to a safe place to get towed about 1.5 miles away. Engine was sputtering terribly and stalled out a couple times while trying to get it on/off the flatbed.

Apparently, there wasn't any other major damage as they were able to repair the spring. I didn't have a warranty, so i paid out of pocket, about $3,100 to replace the one spring. Honestly, I've been thinking about selling the car ever since, but I have put on 850 miles since the repair. Haven't been driving hard, but i've taken it up to 7-8k rpms and all seems... fine. I used to go on canyon runs often and I haven't done one since. Just nervous I guess, which take out all the fun of owning one of these cars.

The service advisor said that I should do an oil change at 1K miles post-repair and every 2-3K miles thereafter...

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRussski View Post
Did you hear any kind of rattling prior? Or just the dash lights?
No rattling. I was going uphill at the time, so I was in 3rd gear for about 2 minutes or so... but it was gentle driving. Seems like the valve spring gave out on the spot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by E9T.two View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by djsilverjohnson View Post
How did this work out for you?

I see several possible outcomes in the event of a broken valve spring;

1. The engine runs rough, but the valve spring retainer stays in place and the valve doesn't drop far into the combustion chamber. In this case, depending on the engine design, the piston may strike the valve without major damage, or it may break the head off the valve and cause major collateral damage.

2. The release of spring pressure takes tension off the spring retainer and the vibration causes the collars to fall out and release the spring retainer. If that happens, the valve falls into the combustion chamber and causes major collateral damage.
Dash lit up with the CEL, car went into limp mode. I was able to drive it to a safe place to get towed about 1.5 miles away. Engine was sputtering terribly and stalled out a couple times while trying to get it on/off the flatbed.

Apparently, there wasn't any other major damage as they were able to repair the spring. I didn't have a warranty, so i paid out of pocket, about $3,100 to replace the one spring. Honestly, I've been thinking about selling the car ever since, but I have put on 850 miles since the repair. Haven't been driving hard, but i've taken it up to 7-8k rpms and all seems... fine. I used to go on canyon runs often and I haven't done one since. Just nervous I guess, which take out all the fun of owning one of these cars.

The service advisor said that I should do an oil change at 1K miles post-repair and every 2-3K miles thereafter...

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRussski View Post
Did you hear any kind of rattling prior? Or just the dash lights?
No rattling. I was going uphill at the time, so I was in 3rd gear for about 2 minutes or so... but it was gentle driving. Seems like the valve spring gave out on the spot.

I have the same issue, driving her lightly, then hit limp mode. Car was shaking, my vorsteiner titanium exhaust sounded like crap. Threw code p0306. Towed the car to a shop, replaced all ignition coils and plugs still misfiring cylinder 6. Ran compression test and bank 6 has 0 COMPRESSION.

I'm now informed that it could be my Valve spring. I got quoted labor/ parts to replace the issue of 5500. Requires around 30 hrs/labor.

I'm about to give them the Okay to open the head, send it to a machine shop and replace the all 4 springs on driver side.

Are you/ did you have the same issue as me? I wanna know forsure before I drop more money. Already 4k in the hole and don't wanna drop another 5500.
Sounds like the same issue to me. I can't think of any good reason why they would go, despite age or lack or driving during 2020.
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      09-24-2020, 08:24 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delta0401 View Post
I am unfortunate enough to be going through my 2nd valve spring failure. First was on cylinder #5 which was fixed under aftermarket warranty in April 2020 at a grand total of over $10K. Fast forward, four months in August 2020 and a second valve spring in Cylinder #8 brakes just after warranty expires. Dealer quotes over $8K for this to be fixed.
What are the model years? Sorry if I missed it.
I see a few '13s 😳
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      09-30-2020, 10:22 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E9T.two View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooba_Steeve View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by E9T.two View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by djsilverjohnson View Post
How did this work out for you?

I see several possible outcomes in the event of a broken valve spring;

1. The engine runs rough, but the valve spring retainer stays in place and the valve doesn't drop far into the combustion chamber. In this case, depending on the engine design, the piston may strike the valve without major damage, or it may break the head off the valve and cause major collateral damage.

2. The release of spring pressure takes tension off the spring retainer and the vibration causes the collars to fall out and release the spring retainer. If that happens, the valve falls into the combustion chamber and causes major collateral damage.
Dash lit up with the CEL, car went into limp mode. I was able to drive it to a safe place to get towed about 1.5 miles away. Engine was sputtering terribly and stalled out a couple times while trying to get it on/off the flatbed.

Apparently, there wasn't any other major damage as they were able to repair the spring. I didn't have a warranty, so i paid out of pocket, about $3,100 to replace the one spring. Honestly, I've been thinking about selling the car ever since, but I have put on 850 miles since the repair. Haven't been driving hard, but i've taken it up to 7-8k rpms and all seems... fine. I used to go on canyon runs often and I haven't done one since. Just nervous I guess, which take out all the fun of owning one of these cars.

The service advisor said that I should do an oil change at 1K miles post-repair and every 2-3K miles thereafter...

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRussski View Post
Did you hear any kind of rattling prior? Or just the dash lights?
No rattling. I was going uphill at the time, so I was in 3rd gear for about 2 minutes or so... but it was gentle driving. Seems like the valve spring gave out on the spot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by E9T.two View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by djsilverjohnson View Post
How did this work out for you?

I see several possible outcomes in the event of a broken valve spring;

1. The engine runs rough, but the valve spring retainer stays in place and the valve doesn't drop far into the combustion chamber. In this case, depending on the engine design, the piston may strike the valve without major damage, or it may break the head off the valve and cause major collateral damage.

2. The release of spring pressure takes tension off the spring retainer and the vibration causes the collars to fall out and release the spring retainer. If that happens, the valve falls into the combustion chamber and causes major collateral damage.
Dash lit up with the CEL, car went into limp mode. I was able to drive it to a safe place to get towed about 1.5 miles away. Engine was sputtering terribly and stalled out a couple times while trying to get it on/off the flatbed.

Apparently, there wasn't any other major damage as they were able to repair the spring. I didn't have a warranty, so i paid out of pocket, about $3,100 to replace the one spring. Honestly, I've been thinking about selling the car ever since, but I have put on 850 miles since the repair. Haven't been driving hard, but i've taken it up to 7-8k rpms and all seems... fine. I used to go on canyon runs often and I haven't done one since. Just nervous I guess, which take out all the fun of owning one of these cars.

The service advisor said that I should do an oil change at 1K miles post-repair and every 2-3K miles thereafter...

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRussski View Post
Did you hear any kind of rattling prior? Or just the dash lights?
No rattling. I was going uphill at the time, so I was in 3rd gear for about 2 minutes or so... but it was gentle driving. Seems like the valve spring gave out on the spot.

I have the same issue, driving her lightly, then hit limp mode. Car was shaking, my vorsteiner titanium exhaust sounded like crap. Threw code p0306. Towed the car to a shop, replaced all ignition coils and plugs still misfiring cylinder 6. Ran compression test and bank 6 has 0 COMPRESSION.

I'm now informed that it could be my Valve spring. I got quoted labor/ parts to replace the issue of 5500. Requires around 30 hrs/labor.

I'm about to give them the Okay to open the head, send it to a machine shop and replace the all 4 springs on driver side.

Are you/ did you have the same issue as me? I wanna know forsure before I drop more money. Already 4k in the hole and don't wanna drop another 5500.
Sounds like the same issue to me. I can't think of any good reason why they would go, despite age or lack or driving during 2020.
Yea so i do have a cracked valve cylinder 6. Being replaced at the moment
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      11-03-2020, 01:39 AM   #78
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Why would lack of driving affect springs?
Over-revving is more of a culprit
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      11-21-2020, 12:01 PM   #79
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Curious to see a poll how common this is or more rare? Year and mileage people at when facing this ... I plan keep my car for a long time ... but 5-9k fix ....like damn
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      02-13-2022, 02:57 PM   #80
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Visualizing broken valve spring

I am pretty sure I have a broken valve spring, as I suddenly lost all compression in Cylinder #3 and of course started shaking and went into limp mode. I put a borescope in the cylinder through the spark plug hole, and as you can see in the picture below if you look carefully, one of the intake valves (I believe) is not closed while the other is. The picture is out of focus because I couldn't get a goos shot at TDC. My question is, if I take off the valve cover, can you see the springs clearly or does the cam shaft need to come off to see if the spring is broken. The latter would require retiming the engine which I wouldn't be able to do.
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      02-13-2022, 03:18 PM   #81
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Yes, I think the cams have to come out to get a proper view of the valve springs.
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      02-13-2022, 05:32 PM   #82
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Good picture. Are the springs out in your picture? I assume they go in the recess holes?
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      02-13-2022, 06:07 PM   #83
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No, springs look like they're still in but one exhaust side retainer is missing the keepers. Looks like that one is where the failure happened.
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      02-13-2022, 06:09 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueSpontaneous View Post
I am pretty sure I have a broken valve spring, as I suddenly lost all compression in Cylinder #3 and of course started shaking and went into limp mode. I put a borescope in the cylinder through the spark plug hole, and as you can see in the picture below if you look carefully, one of the intake valves (I believe) is not closed while the other is. The picture is out of focus because I couldn't get a goos shot at TDC. My question is, if I take off the valve cover, can you see the springs clearly or does the cam shaft need to come off to see if the spring is broken. The latter would require retiming the engine which I wouldn't be able to do.
Camshaft and follower have to come off for a real good look and access to the retainer/keepers
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      02-16-2022, 08:57 AM   #85
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Removing camshaft without retiming

Is there a way to remove the camshaft without re-timing the engine?
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