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      08-02-2018, 05:25 PM   #23
roastbeef
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i'm doing do88 and the slonik pan when the time comes. if you have to drain the fluid, might as well do both.
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      08-03-2018, 09:35 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by nicksm3 View Post
Installed the mesh few weeks ago to prevent my cooler getting hammered from debris, who here feels this may cause an issue with cooling? I'm partial at the moment
i think you'll be ok. it appears to be less restrictive than the exit.

a while back when i had the bumper off, i took the dct cooler ducting off and took some time to pickout the larger bugs, rubber, and gunk. i followed up with blowing air through it with an air gun backwards. it was enough to have to sweep the driveway afterward.
I always run water through the back of the cooler when I wash the car. I'll usually rinse out a bug or a rock.

I've noticed that I'm not getting as much airflow as I thought through the lower openings in my e46. I'd love to see how much air is moving through the cooler. I've always assumed it's a lot.

Maybe a pull or push fan would greatly increase cooling?
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      08-03-2018, 10:02 AM   #25
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i got in the habit of eyeballing the cooler throughout the day. sometimes there will be a rubber nugget to pick off. i'm kinda paranoid a grocery bag or a napkin is going to fly in there and completely cover it or something. probably a good ocd thing that i do.

i'm not sure if a fan is going to help... it has good exposure already. might help cool it down faster in the pits, but i can also see a pusher fan covering valuable real estate in front of the cooler... i'd wonder if it could actually be detrimental at speed. puller won't work because the tire is too close.
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      08-03-2018, 05:01 PM   #26
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i got in the habit of eyeballing the cooler throughout the day. sometimes there will be a rubber nugget to pick off. i'm kinda paranoid a grocery bag or a napkin is going to fly in there and completely cover it or something. probably a good ocd thing that i do.

i'm not sure if a fan is going to help... it has good exposure already. might help cool it down faster in the pits, but i can also see a pusher fan covering valuable real estate in front of the cooler... i'd wonder if it could actually be detrimental at speed. puller won't work because the tire is too close.
I'm not sure that the air is flowing through the cooler in the volumes we assume it is. This is a low pressure area on some other cars with a similar fog light opening.
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      08-03-2018, 05:16 PM   #27
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i don't see how so... its an open vent like the rest of the front, but there isn't anything in front of it to "dirty up" or disrupt the air. aerodynamics is a weird thing; it doesn't look like what we think it looks like, so i don't know.
the inlet ducting is pretty secure up against the cooler as-is the rear.

i know redpriest's fender liner behind the dct cooler got blown out once he upgraded to the do88 cooler. the home made slats in the fender liner were too small or something and the wind was strong enough to blow them out.
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      08-03-2018, 05:34 PM   #28
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I think you need to adress the fact you had a leak before you do anything. You may have been loosing fluid or pressure.
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      08-03-2018, 08:34 PM   #29
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I think you need to adress the fact you had a leak before you do anything. You may have been loosing fluid or pressure.
Sure enough I had a leak but wasn’t comin from the DCT Pan. From the top of the transmission. Whole tranny has to come down and replace some parts. Next week she is going u under the knife at ACM
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      08-03-2018, 11:13 PM   #30
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i don't see how so... its an open vent like the rest of the front, but there isn't anything in front of it to "dirty up" or disrupt the air. aerodynamics is a weird thing; it doesn't look like what we think it looks like, so i don't know.
the inlet ducting is pretty secure up against the cooler as-is the rear.

i know redpriest's fender liner behind the dct cooler got blown out once he upgraded to the do88 cooler. the home made slats in the fender liner were too small or something and the wind was strong enough to blow them out.
Not sure either. I'd like to see some data before I'm convinced.
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      08-13-2018, 01:56 PM   #31
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i'm doing do88 and the slonik pan when the time comes. if you have to drain the fluid, might as well do both.
I know this is a bit off subject buy why Slonik pan as opposed to the Gintani?
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      08-13-2018, 02:39 PM   #32
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I know this is a bit off subject buy why Slonik pan as opposed to the Gintani?
2 main differences between Slonik and other options:

-Internal Baffles - the slonik internal baffles mimic the OEM pan baffles, but in a deeper pan. No other pan that I've seen goes through that trouble. (It's a LOT of machining work to do that.) SSP has a few mild speed bump baffles. Gintani doesn't seem to have much in there.



-the suction intake lowering spacer - the slonik pan includes a second hardware piece---a spacer that lowers the intake tube further down into the deeper pan. No one else is doing that either. (It's the red piece in the pic below.)



The theories in play here are---with the lowering spacer, if you have been dealing with starvation issues, the lower suction tube should help. And the baffles should reduce fluid sloshing under high-G situations.

Gintani and SSP pans hold more fluid than the slonik pan, but that also means the bottoms of the larger pans sit lower to the ground. The slonik pan still fits under the felt cover. It holds 0.8L more fluid than stock.

Hope that helps.
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      08-13-2018, 06:01 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogbone View Post
2 main differences between Slonik and other options:

-Internal Baffles - the slonik internal baffles mimic the OEM pan baffles, but in a deeper pan. No other pan that I've seen goes through that trouble. (It's a LOT of machining work to do that.) SSP has a few mild speed bump baffles. Gintani doesn't seem to have much in there.



-the suction intake lowering spacer - the slonik pan includes a second hardware piece---a spacer that lowers the intake tube further down into the deeper pan. No one else is doing that either. (It's the red piece in the pic below.)



The theories in play here are---with the lowering spacer, if you have been dealing with starvation issues, the lower suction tube should help. And the baffles should reduce fluid sloshing under high-G situations.

Gintani and SSP pans hold more fluid than the slonik pan, but that also means the bottoms of the larger pans sit lower to the ground. The slonik pan still fits under the felt cover. It holds 0.8L more fluid than stock.

Hope that helps.

Thanks for the great info. It looks like they did their homework. Are you currently running one?
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      08-13-2018, 08:43 PM   #34
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Thanks for the great info. It looks like they did their homework. Are you currently running one?
Yes I have one. Purchased it in the first group buy. The photos I attached are from the install on my car. You can see more on my build thread on this page: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1158445&page=33

Prior to the Slon pan, I was experiencing quite a few double up-shifts under high-G loads. We believe I was suffering from starvation issues. I would pull the paddle once, but it would go up two gears, even on the first hot lap, so heat wasn’t the issue. I have driven with the Slon pan hard on three track days at three different tracks. Two of those days were with fresh Pirelli slicks, and I have not had any shift issues since it went on. (I mention the tires because fresh slicks create very high grip/high-G situations, which is when I had the most problems.)
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