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08-03-2012, 12:08 AM | #23 | |
will bring some beers
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Good luck and keep us informed as to how it is going. |
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08-03-2012, 03:22 AM | #24 |
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What a shitty stupid situation. Sorry man
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08-03-2012, 07:23 AM | #26 |
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BTW, what dealer? I am driving to Montreal for a wedding today. If my car breaks down I want to know who to avoid!
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08-03-2012, 08:47 AM | #27 | |
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Hope you get this resolved
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While there are some good dealers...some like to hire dickheads. I've have plenty of stories.
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08-03-2012, 12:52 PM | #28 |
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not entirely true. The diff bolts have been discussed at length here before. The problem is the threaded bolts securing the diff shear.
I wouldn't think a burnout to be that bad for the car as the wheels should be spinning. Lateral forces on the car would present more of an issue on the bolts themselves. So standing still, even smoking the tires and giving the driveline and initial shock shouldn't do this. Maybe if it was at a drag strip going through the box (sticky rubber) or launching the car that I could see, or as said before hard lateral forces on the rear end. Now where is the guy who was designing new bolts?? |
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08-03-2012, 12:54 PM | #29 |
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Futhermore, I believe the diff acutally broke after the bolts sheared and it hit the ground. THis is what damaged the heat sink on it too. The issue is not in the diff, but how it's secured.
OP your car looks like a good candidate for the corrosion warranty regardless, it looks terrible under there. |
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08-03-2012, 12:56 PM | #30 | |
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the lateral forces to the diff bolts are much greater when moving than standing still. The launcing (if hooking up) is where things will break. A good (proper) smoky burnout shouldn't hurt anyhting. (noticed I said proper) |
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08-03-2012, 12:58 PM | #31 | |
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Unfortunately it is. I drove my clean California 350z for two winters in Pennsylvania and it ended up looking like that afterwards. And PA winters don't hold a candle to Canada. That's not the problem here though.
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That said, some people claim to have had them break with no "hard" driving AT ALL. Bottom line is, there is something wrong here. It scares the hell out of me and makes me not want to drive the car hard.
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08-03-2012, 02:11 PM | #32 |
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I thought a forum member was going to design a reenforcment bracket for our diff but haven't heard anything new. I am scare here too as the last time I checked the bolt, they were not tightened up to spec. sucks.
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08-03-2012, 02:20 PM | #33 |
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someone had looked into design a new bolt that wasn't fully threaded of additional hardness; that's what I was inquiring in bold.
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08-03-2012, 02:48 PM | #34 |
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I was looking into getting other 10.9 grade bolts that are not fully threaded and see if they are a good replacement. I read about 12.9 grade but some people pointed out that they can actually be more brittle than 10.9 so might not be a good candidate for this application. I think there was a picture on here also that showed where the bolt broke and it's not the head area so not really sure a non fully thread bolt is going to help that much. But I will be ordering some parts soon so I will report back if the bolts I found works or not. There was another member that was looking into designing a bracket also.
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08-04-2012, 10:44 AM | #35 |
Putcha ang ganda...
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08-04-2012, 02:19 PM | #36 |
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There's a difference between gears cracking in the diff from abuse and the diff actually falling out of the car. Even if it was burned out improperly, there's no reason for the diff to just completely fall out of the car 2000km later. And, as was stated above, a proper burnout transfers all stress to the tires, and given that OP drags and races a 600hp Skyline, I'm sure he knows how to actually do a burnout without making the diff fall out.
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08-04-2012, 02:35 PM | #37 |
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Right here.
Aiming for early Fall 2012 release. It has taken a little longer than anticipated due to testing and R&D.
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08-05-2012, 05:34 AM | #38 |
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How do they even know that the car was going 20 km/h at redline? The car gets its speed from how fast the wheels are moving I believe so I don't see how they could assume that this was a burnout.
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08-05-2012, 10:19 AM | #39 |
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I just got an email from BMW Germany asking for information.. I'll update once I get something from them.
I never did a burnout with my m3 mostly because I didn't want to burn my new tires, but I believe that redline at 20km/h happened I believe in the rain while moving forward (nevertheless I'm not 100% sure when it actually happened, but thats the only time I hit redline that I recall). |
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08-05-2012, 10:41 AM | #40 | |
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Anyway what I'm trying to say is, if you are 100% positive you never did a burn out then I'm pretty sure you can ask for a print out from your dealer to show when the redlining occurred. If it happened before you owned the car I think that could help you. Also I just can't see how you could redline in the rain at 20km/h without doing something silly, maybe drifting? Donuts? Power sliding? Or just flooring it first gear with TC off? Maybe I'm retarded and not fully understanding what you were trying to say but I just can't see how you would redline at that speed with out breaking traction, especially in the rain. Hopefully someone who is more knowledgeable ont his stuff can chime in. |
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08-05-2012, 05:45 PM | #41 | |
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08-05-2012, 09:14 PM | #42 | |
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08-05-2012, 09:25 PM | #43 |
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Wrong. It's the combination of speed and rpm that they're nailing you on.
That being said I think a lot of M3 drivers would have a data point like this in their logs. Keep us updated on how things go.
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