Solution for KW Clubsport Inner Wheel Clearance Issues

[Richbot]

Originally Posted by slicer

I think you have sufficient clearance without a spacer based on those pictures.

Concur. Something would have to get weird for you to touch there

[kayha12]

I'm going to be removing the helper spring and will report back; They are fully compressed at full droop so I'm not really sure what their purpose is at that point?

[slicer]

Originally Posted by kayha12

I'm going to be removing the helper spring and will report back; They are fully compressed at full droop so I'm not really sure what their purpose is at that point?

Do you have both front wheels off the ground when checking? The sway bar will compress the helper if only one side is lifted.

[kayha12]

Originally Posted by slicer

Do you have both front wheels off the ground when checking? The sway bar will compress the helper if only one side is lifted.

I believe so; I had both front wheels off at the track but I don't recall 100% then. I need to adjust the setting on the front sway bar before next event so I will double check

[MPower7]

Would it be wise to use a new top nut or can the old one be re-used after completing the spring swap?

[slicer]

Originally Posted by MPower7

Would it be wise to use a new top nut or can the old one be re-used after completing the spring swap?

I don't believe there is a reason to replace unless KW claims it's a single use nut.

[UnicornM]

Bumping this up.

KW CS here, and i'm super close to hitting the perch. I'm not fussed about loosing height range, I tend to run low anyway. Removing the helper spring and retaining KW spring vs Eibach ERS-H-140-60-0090 has what benefit if any?

[//steve\\]

Originally Posted by UnicornM

Bumping this up.

KW CS here, and i'm super close to hitting the perch. I'm not fussed about loosing height range, I tend to run low anyway. Removing the helper spring and retaining KW spring vs Eibach ERS-H-140-60-0090 has what benefit if any?

The helper spring keeps tension on the spring so it's not flopping around once you go to a certain level of low. You're better off to keep the helper and change to a shorter main spring than just removing the helper.

This isn't a one size fits all solution though....it's very ride height dependent so what is required for one person may not be required by another.

[slicer]

Originally Posted by //steve\\

The helper spring keeps tension on the spring so it's not flopping around once you go to a certain level of low. You're better off to keep the helper and change to a shorter main spring than just removing the helper.

This isn't a one size fits all solution though....it's very ride height dependent so what is required for one person may not be required by another.

Mostly accurate but I would word it differently. The helper keeps everything in place if both front wheels are unweighted. When only one is unweighted the swaybar will typically maintain tension on the spring (helper not needed). This is easily illustrated if you lift both front wheels off the ground with a Jack. The springs are loose and could misalign when the car comes back down.

There are plenty of people who delete the helper without issues as it's not often that cars become airborne.

[slicer]

Originally Posted by UnicornM

Bumping this up.

KW CS here, and i'm super close to hitting the perch. I'm not fussed about loosing height range, I tend to run low anyway. Removing the helper spring and retaining KW spring vs Eibach ERS-H-140-60-0090 has what benefit if any?

Also note that KW changed their spring rates on the CS kits subsequent to this thread. New KW CS kits come with 110nm front springs.

[UnicornM]

Thanks gents.

Yes I understand need for a helper spring, but in my case (as with others) my perch is about 2mm away from the tyre and that makes me nervous under heavy load. Having read this entire thread I will end up rubbing without a doubt. So before I put this thing back on the road I want to look at removing that helper spring and winding the collar up. I'm not at the lowest setting (far from) but there's a good 70% of the thread collar above which after removing the helper would put the collar right near the top to retain the same ride height. And I suspect with the vehicle up in the air the spring will still be under tension?

[UnicornM]

Originally Posted by slicer

Also note that KW changed their spring rates on the CS kits subsequent to this thread. New KW CS kits come with 110nm front springs.

So that's 10nm reduction. The V3s are what 90nm iirc? Of course those are a different winding from what I understand.

[slicer]

Originally Posted by UnicornM

So that's 10nm reduction. The V3s are what 90nm iirc? Of course those are a different winding from what I understand.

It's a 20nm increase. The old version was 90nm

KWV3 is a progressive spring. I don't think the rate is published

[slicer]

Originally Posted by UnicornM

Thanks gents.

Yes I understand need for a helper spring, but in my case (as with others) my perch is about 2mm away from the tyre and that makes me nervous under heavy load. Having read this entire thread I will end up rubbing without a doubt. So before I put this thing back on the road I want to look at removing that helper spring and winding the collar up. I'm not at the lowest setting (far from) but there's a good 70% of the thread collar above which after removing the helper would put the collar right near the top to retain the same ride height. And I suspect with the vehicle up in the air the spring will still be under tension?

It won't be under tension if both wheels are in the air.

I highly recommend doing the spring swap over the helper delete. No drawback to the spring swap - unless you want to run factory ride-height.

[UnicornM]

Originally Posted by slicer

It won't be under tension if both wheels are in the air.

I highly recommend doing the spring swap over the helper delete. No drawback to the spring swap - unless you want to run factory ride-height.

Eibach spring?

100% want to retain the low stance I have (almost tucking up front) so stiffer spring is going to be a issue If I have the collar all the way down?

[slicer]

Originally Posted by UnicornM

Eibach spring?

100% want to retain the low stance I have (almost tucking up front) so stiffer spring is going to be a issue If I have the collar all the way down?

Eibach spring. You don't need to change the spring rate unless you want to for some reason. You can use the exact same rate that came on your KW kit. With the same spring rate there's no discernible difference

[UnicornM]

Originally Posted by slicer

Eibach spring. You don't need to change the spring rate unless you want to for some reason. You can use the exact same rate that came on your KW kit. With the same spring rate there's no discernible difference

OK great. The ride is absolutely perfect so spring rates are fine.

I just noticed KW does a 140mm length 90Nm spring too?

https://www.kwsuspensions.co.uk/shop...rings/60110027

[slicer]

Originally Posted by UnicornM

OK great. The ride is absolutely perfect so spring rates are fine.

I just noticed KW does a 140mm length 90Nm spring too?

https://www.kwsuspensions.co.uk/shop...rings/60110027

Yes but it has less travel than the Eibach version. I outlined that earlier in this thread.

[UnicornM]

Originally Posted by slicer

Yes but it has less travel than the Eibach version. I outlined that earlier in this thread.

7mm difference in travel is pretty big. I guess I just wanted yellow springs

Best place to order Eibachs? Since the clubsports came pre-assembled, is there anything I need to know before dismantling the coilover to switch over the spring?

You've been a great help

[UnicornM]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-New-Ei...wAAOSwZrtetCfj

Did they change the colour?

[//steve\\]

Slicer can actually source the springs for you. Not only does he have all the info, he can get you the stuff too.

[mikejnc]

Anyone run 275/35/18 tires on 18x10.5 with the shorter Eibach springs with success?