BW Wheel Studs

[MaximusB]

Those with BW wheel studs, how the eff do you achieve the 50 to 80ft.lbs to torque down the stud without the double nut spinning? I managed to install 6 studs at between 60 to 65ft.lbs, and stripped both nuts. Calling it a night till I can pick up a few more nuts tomorrow to continue.

What torque spec should I achieve to torque the studs down to the hub? 50 to 80ft.lbs seems quite a bit of range. And there is no way I can get near even 70ft.lbs without the double nuts spinning. Is it okay if all the studs are installed at a slightly different torque? ie. they’re all going to be between 55-65ft.lbs.

Also, I had to take one stud back out and the dry locktite was worn off in the process. I assume it is okay if I just add a couple drops of red loctite to put it back in?

[wootloops]

It was a major pain in the ass to get the double nuts locked. Once I figured out a system it wasn't so bad, but it took a lot of trial and error.

I had a couple tricks I used... If I remember correctly: I would use a box wrench on the inner nut and wedge it against the brake caliper to hold it still. Then use a long breaker bar with a deep socket on the outer nut. Have to be careful so the socket only touches the outer nut and not the inner. In retrospect putting a large washer in between the two may have made that part easier. Make sure the wrench is engaged evenly onto the inner nut so you dont strip it. Same with the outer on the socket even though that should be easier.

I think I also had to use a screw driver in one of the rotor vanes to stop the rotor from moving at the same time. Stick it in the vane so that it gets stuck in the caliper and locks the rotor.

I think I ended up tightening all of my studs to around 60-70 ft lbs. Just make sure you torque the double nuts down to like 85-90 and then it shouldn't spin. The torque isnt as important as wheel bolts since the clamping force is accomplished by the nut. But I wanted to go more than 50 just to reduce the risk of one accidentally coming loose (even if the loctite should prevent it). Some other stud kits use much less torque, though so it really shouldn't be an issue.

I also had to back a couple of studs out in the learning process and added a couple of drops of red Loctite like you mentioned. Just make sure you really clean out the threads of the hub with a wire brush before hand.


Man, I was sore after installing that kit. My shoulders, elbows, and back killed me for like a week after torqueing all those double nuts down.

[MaximusB]

Originally Posted by wootloops

It was a major pain in the ass to get the double nuts locked. Once I figured out a system it wasn't so bad, but it took a lot of trial and error.

I had a couple tricks I used... If I remember correctly: I would use a box wrench on the inner nut and wedge it against the brake caliper to hold it still. Then use a long breaker bar with a deep socket on the outer nut. Have to be careful so the socket only touches the outer nut and not the inner. In retrospect putting a large washer in between the two may have made that part easier. Make sure the wrench is engaged evenly onto the inner nut so you dont strip it. Same with the outer on the socket even though that should be easier.

I think I also had to use a screw driver in one of the rotor vanes to stop the rotor from moving at the same time. Stick it in the vane so that it gets stuck in the caliper and locks the rotor.

I think I ended up tightening all of my studs to around 60-70 ft lbs. Just make sure you torque the double nuts down to like 85-90 and then it shouldn't spin. The torque isnt as important as wheel bolts since the clamping force is accomplished by the nut. But I wanted to go more than 50 just to reduce the risk of one accidentally coming loose (even if the loctite should prevent it). Some other stud kits use much less torque, though so it really shouldn't be an issue.

I also had to back a couple of studs out in the learning process and added a couple of drops of red Loctite like you mentioned. Just make sure you really clean out the threads of the hub with a wire brush before hand.


Man, I was sore after installing that kit. My shoulders, elbows, and back killed me for like a week after torqueing all those double nuts down.

Yes, that is the same process I used. Finally got it all done after picking up a few new nuts. It did got easier as I go. In the end I was able to get a stud in, torqued to 70ft.lbs in about 5 minutes. I also went back and checked all the studs, they're all torqued down to 70ft.lbs +/-.

I also ran a thread cleaner nut each stud by hand to clean up the threads. I was worried I might have damaged the thread on 1 or 2 studs when I stripped the double nuts. I hope they're okay, but debating if I should order a couple replacement studs and swap them out, just in case.

[MaximusB]

Question:

Is the top stud in the photo safe to use?

I stripped the double nuts when I was putting this stud on. In the process of getting the stripped nuts out, I damaged the thread a bit. The threads looks okay except for the first few, but the wheel nut won't sit on there. So I assume it is okay??

The discolouring is not galling. It is just the coat on the stud worn off. I was able to run a thread cleaner nut down the whole stud without much friction.

Should I replace it, just in case? Or safe to leave it.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by MaximusB

Question:

Is the top stud in the photo safe to use?

I stripped the double nuts when I was putting this stud on. In the process of getting the stripped nuts out, I damaged the thread a bit. The threads looks okay except for the first few, but the wheel nut won't sit on there. So I assume it is okay??

The discolouring is not galling. It is just the coat on the stud worn off. I was able to run a thread cleaner nut down the whole stud without much friction.

Should I replace it, just in case? Or safe to leave it.

I would replace that.

[MaximusB]

Originally Posted by dparm

I would replace that.

Yeah, I was just about to. Then I emailed the photo to BW and spoke to them over email. They said that is still good to use. They said worn off coating is not an issue with their studs, especially when the lug nut sits pass that area.

Shitty thing is being in Canada, BW charge a flat shipping rate ($54) regardless I buy 1 stud or a full set or more. So kind of feel a waste if I buy just 1 or 2. Don't want to pay $20 on studs and $54 shipping lol.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by MaximusB

Yeah, I was just about to. Then I emailed the photo to BW and spoke to them over email. They said that is still good to use. They said worn off coating is not an issue with their studs, especially when the lug nut sits pass that area.

Shitty thing is being in Canada, BW charge a flat shipping rate ($54) regardless I buy 1 stud or a full set or more. So kind of feel a waste if I buy just 1 or 2. Don't want to pay $20 on studs and $54 shipping lol.

Buy an entirely second set of studs and nuts and just keep them for the future. You never know when you will break one or lose a wheel nut.

[Estoril Blue]

Originally Posted by dparm

Buy an entirely second set of studs and nuts and just keep them for the future. You never know when you will break one or lose a wheel nut.

I agree. Thats what I do. And always have 5 spares in your track box.

[aus]

How much do you guys torque the nuts down on studs?
One race team told me 60-70 ft-lbs??
.

[MaximusB]

Originally Posted by aus

How much do you guys torque the nuts down on studs?
One race team told me 60-70 ft-lbs??
.

50 to 80 ft.lbs for the stud to hub.
75ft-lbs for the lug nuts to stud.

[dparm]

Torque is determined by the fastener size.