does mileage matter for track use if it's been maintained?

[kolosy]

so i'm switching out of my e93 into an e92 so i can track it. i'm a track novice (have done a few track days, and a couple of schools), but fairly reasonable and equipped for diy.

i'm trying to decide how much mileage matters for this application. any car i get is going to get new bearings, and i'll review / replace all suspension rubber. i have a new set of injectors sitting in a box, and would overhaul the cooling system rubber bits (bmw rubber being bmw rubber) if it were old enough. beyond that ... does it matter? not talking crazy 150k+ mileage, just whether the 5-10k premium for a 50k car is worth if over a 90k car.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by kolosy

so i'm switching out of my e93 into an e92 so i can track it. i'm a track novice (have done a few track days, and a couple of schools), but fairly reasonable and equipped for diy.

i'm trying to decide how much mileage matters for this application. any car i get is going to get new bearings, and i'll review / replace all suspension rubber. i have a new set of injectors sitting in a box, and would overhaul the cooling system rubber bits (bmw rubber being bmw rubber) if it were old enough. beyond that ... does it matter? not talking crazy 150k+ mileage, just whether the 5-10k premium for a 50k car is worth if over a 90k car.

I'd save money and take the 150k mileage options. Drop time and parts into preventative maintenance, safety additions, and have a car you're less worried about.

[roastbeef]

I wouldn't worry about it.

[DrFerry]

I'd rather take a well maintained 90K mile car with fresh BE rod bearings and ARP bolts to the track than an averagely maintained 50-60K mile car with original OEM rod bearings.

[tbuck]

Yeah, not that big a deal if you are capable of handling the maintenance that will undoubtedly come up. You have already touched on many of the common issues above. Just figure that extra money you are paying for the car is that much less you will have for the consumables you are going to be going through with a track car. Tires and brakes do not last long in a track environment and they are damn sure not cheap.

Personally a mid to high mileage M3 (read that as over to well over 100k miles) is about perfect for the job. Unless, of course, you are looking for a weekend car that you may take to the track, rather than a track car that you may wish to drive around town now and then. The reality is BMW's in general, maintenance whores though they may often be, will last damn near forever. 200k is really nothing to a well maintained BMW, M-car or no M-car. So if you can do the work, don't be too afraid to grab that 100+k car and have a blast! GL!

[Gouki]

kolosy - mine has just gone up for sale and might fit your requirements.

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showth...2#post28928232

[kolosy]

Originally Posted by Gouki

kolosy - mine has just gone up for sale and might fit your requirements.

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showth...2#post28928232

thanks, but definitely looking for a DCT. what little track time i do have confirmed for me that i need to focus on driving and not heel & toe.

[nrubenstein]

Originally Posted by kolosy

thanks, but definitely looking for a DCT. what little track time i do have confirmed for me that i need to focus on driving and not heel & toe.

No one likes to hear this, but if you really need to focus that much on your driving, an E9x M3 isn't a good place to be. You will become a MUCH faster and better driver in a slower car. And you'll be able to do more track days, because it costs a LOT less money to keep a cheaper car on the track.

(Right now, I definitely recommend the E46 330i if you stay BMW. Follow the SpecE46 rules to the extent that you modify it. You'll have one of the best club racing classes in existence to go to if you want to graduate to wheel to wheel.)

[kolosy]

Originally Posted by nrubenstein

No one likes to hear this, but if you really need to focus that much on your driving, an E9x M3 isn't a good place to be. You will become a MUCH faster and better driver in a slower car. And you'll be able to do more track days, because it costs a LOT less money to keep a cheaper car on the track.

(Right now, I definitely recommend the E46 330i if you stay BMW. Follow the SpecE46 rules to the extent that you modify it. You'll have one of the best club racing classes in existence to go to if you want to graduate to wheel to wheel.)

i have heard that before (buddy is a spec miata guy and former BMW CCA instructor), and do respect it. I think what I'm looking for is a car that's fun on the street that I can take to the track 3-6 times a year and go fast. not looking to be competitive (at least not at this point), just looking to have fun and maybe become a better driver as a side effect.

[Richneerd]

i'll review / replace all suspension rubber. i have a new set of injectors sitting in a box, and would overhaul the cooling system rubber bits (bmw rubber being bmw rubber) if it were old enough. beyond that ... does it matter? not talking crazy 150k+ mileage, just whether the 5-10k premium for a 50k car is worth if over a 90k car.

You'll be good, full send it.

I like higher mileage cars. I know what I'm getting into.

Enjoy!

[amrazM]

Originally Posted by DrFerry

I'd rather take a well maintained 90K mile car with fresh BE rod bearings and ARP bolts to the track than an averagely maintained 50-60K mile car with original OEM rod bearings.

alot of those average cars are the ones selling for $45k right now, most people buy them thinking its low mileage and wont need anything forgetting its 10 years old at this point.

for a track car tho, I would take the cheapest one I can find.

[rcracin]

Engines do get worn out and tired. For $5-10k I'd definitely take a motor with half the mileage. That's in reference to your 50k vs 90k miles.

I'd also try to get a peek inside the valve covers to see the color of the components. I've opened up a lot of blown s65's and the common factor is that they were always extremely dark inside due to long oil change intervals. What you want to see is a light golden color or no coloring at all.

[nrubenstein]

Originally Posted by rcracin

Engines do get worn out and tired. For $5-10k I'd definitely take a motor with half the mileage. That's in reference to your 50k vs 90k miles.

I'd also try to get a peek inside the valve covers to see the color of the components. I've opened up a lot of blown s65's and the common factor is that they were always extremely dark inside due to long oil change intervals. What you want to see is a light golden color or no coloring at all.

Internal engine color has a lot to do with which oil was used. Castrol tints. Mobil 1 does not. Obviously, you don't want to see sludge build up, but color doesn't mean much.