DIY: S65 Throttle Actuator

[da jemster]

Originally Posted by Titan_br

Don't get me wrong. But they are running and working pretty well.
Why they come back to life when I took the cable of the battery off? This is the most non sense. The car starts normally! Even with the errors on it. I erase using Launch Xdiag tool normally.
But when I don't take the cable of battery off, I may erase, but the car do not turn on! Are you following me ? I must share it because it is unbelievable!


Looking to hear you guys.

We all understand...but it is a matter of time when you won't be able to reset it. You are buying time that's about to expire.

[Titan_br]

Has anyone able to fix the eletronic?
I have no problem with the gears, only eletronic I think.

[atruelunatic]

Originally Posted by Titan_br

Has anyone able to fix the eletronic?
I have no problem with the gears, only eletronic I think.

I just got an error recently. Took apart my throttle actuators and found that one board has a burnt looking mosfet.

Ordered something off of mouser and hopefully it'll fix my issue.

Check this thread: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1068709 ... I'm hoping mine is similar and that I won't have to worry about this for another 100k miles.

[GSTE34]

So is the replacement of the TA cause one bank isn't opening?

[drummer20]

Originally Posted by Titan_br

Has anyone able to fix the eletronic?
I have no problem with the gears, only eletronic I think.

I noticed you are getting a CAN bus error. I identified the CAN chip on the board, you can try replacing it with a fresh chip and see if it fixes your problem.

[Titan_br]

I just did the replace, does it need any sort of programming DME? Because the errors still on.

I did the replace, the car is running ok.
I stop the car in garage, everything is ok, cleared etc.
Next day morning, the car is not starting. I have to unplug the battery, plug again, erase the errors, and the car starts normally.

Any thoughts?

[drummer20]

Originally Posted by Titan_br

I just did the replace, does it need any sort of programming DME? Because the errors still on.

I did the replace, the car is running ok.
I stop the car in garage, everything is ok, cleared etc.
Next day morning, the car is not starting. I have to unplug the battery, plug again, erase the errors, and the car starts normally.

Any thoughts?

what did you replace?

[Titan_br]

Originally Posted by drummer20

what did you replace?

Both TA.

[drummer20]

Originally Posted by Titan_br

I just did the replace, does it need any sort of programming DME? Because the errors still on.

I did the replace, the car is running ok.
I stop the car in garage, everything is ok, cleared etc.
Next day morning, the car is not starting. I have to unplug the battery, plug again, erase the errors, and the car starts normally.

Any thoughts?

wire a relay switch for the battery cable and put the control switch in the cab heh

[schwin]

My car is at 72k. I was getting intermittent bank 2 errors and decided to do the odometer gears replacement. The gears were worn on both. The errors did not show up until 2 weeks later. The past week, it popped up 2-3 times and hasn't in 3 days. I ended up ordering a new TA with the MSRP drop to ~$600.

[GregW / Oregon]

Originally Posted by schwin

My car is at 72k. I was getting intermittent bank 2 errors and decided to do the odometer gears replacement. The gears were worn on both. The errors did not show up until 2 weeks later. The past week, it popped up 2-3 times and hasn't in 3 days. I ended up ordering a new TA with the MSRP drop to ~$600.

It seems pretty common that both banks fail in close succession. Why didn't you do both since most the labor is removing everything to get to them?

[schwin]

My indy recommended that we just do the bank 2 since it's the one that keeps popping up intermittently (most likely due to electrical board issues). Bank 1 with new gears running strong without faults so I'm taking my chances. Knock on wood lol

[Theodore]

Thanks to the OP W/// and all the contributors in this thread. I have one recommendation to add:

For the "2 clips that need to be pulled away from the engine to give that wire enough play," it is very difficult to remove them fully as seen in this photo:



Instead, try to pry the two snap on pieces (underside of the clip out of your sight) apart with a trim removal tool that make up the clip:





And when you finally get to the removal of the actual throttle actuators you'll need a T30 bit socket with a minimum 6" extension.

[W///]

Originally Posted by GregW / Oregon

It seems pretty common that both banks fail in close succession. Why didn't you do both since most the labor is removing everything to get to them?

Mine failed 30k miles apart. There's no reason to fix such an expensive part if it's not broken. Once you've done this DIY once, it doesn't take more than 2 hours to get the part in and out.

[e92zero]

I changed the gears in both of my original actuators to the brass ones 44k miles ago at 90k miles. Bank one started throwing fault on me last week. Finally new actuator arrived Monday. Took the original one apart and looked like the board is perfectly fine but the motor is binding, starting to seize up. The brass gears look perfect though, no sign of any wear in 44k miles of usage. Swap the brass gears in the new actuator and put it in the car. Full power feels great after living with limp mode on and off for more than a week.

[ericcalvert]

I changed the gears in both of my actuators, and have re-installed them both. I started up the car and got two codes:

P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit High
P0010 - "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Control Circuit/Open Bank 1

The engine seems to be running smoothly, but there is a strong gas odor (hard to tell if it is out of the exhaust or from the engine bay) and an odd noise around 1500 RPM. The noise sounds a bit like a vacuum leak with a slight rattle. I am assuming this is due to a loose hose or one of the throttle bodies didnt seal well against the plenum. Does anyone have any advice as to what it could be and what i could do to fix these issues?\

EDIT: just wanted to add that i had no codes before swapping the gears and was doing this proactively.

[MFKN3]

Originally Posted by ericcalvert

I changed the gears in both of my actuators, and have re-installed them both. I started up the car and got two codes:

P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit High
P0010 - "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Control Circuit/Open Bank 1

The engine seems to be running smoothly, but there is a strong gas odor (hard to tell if it is out of the exhaust or from the engine bay) and an odd noise around 1500 RPM. The noise sounds a bit like a vacuum leak with a slight rattle. I am assuming this is due to a loose hose or one of the throttle bodies didnt seal well against the plenum. Does anyone have any advice as to what it could be and what i could do to fix these issues?\

EDIT: just wanted to add that i had no codes before swapping the gears and was doing this proactively.

I think you might have missed one of the wire sensor plugs or something isn't plugged in 100%.

FWIW I replaced both of mine due to intermittent errors. Gears looked ok, so can only assume it's heat and electrical related failure.

I of course ordered about 2 weeks prior to the apparent price drop from $900 to $600, always the way

[play2lose]

Just replaced throttle actuator bank 2, took about 3-4hrs. Hardest part was taking off and putting back on the intake plenum. Thanks to everyone for their input and this guide especially! Still get the emissions warning but hopefully that will go away after driving for a bit.

cheers!

UPDATE: warning went away the very next morning, did not have to reset anything

[ohhgourami]

I replaced the gears on my TAs about 3 months back as preventative maintenance. I used the UKar gears off ebay. I had a very hard time with the press fit washer and couldn't quite get it in the last 1/4 inch so there's a bit of play on the shaft. The gears sometimes might not make full contact and the extra play causes the actuator not to spring back immediately. One of the gears from UKar had a few chipped teeth. I lubed the gears with a light teflon firearms grease to prevent wear.

I'll definitely need to go back in and get the press fit washers pushed in all the way. Anyone have any tips on this? What tools did you use?

I noticed my throttle linkages squeaked so I sprayed them down with dry teflon lube and a bit of firearms oil. I still couldn't quite get rid of the squeak but it felt easier to move. Maybe I need to clean around the butterflies?

The car drives fine but I can feel the gears catching when I lift the accelerator.

[drummer20]

I tapped the press fit washers down with a deep socket and a hammer. I rested the gear on a cylindrical metal stand I had to hammer against. Went pretty well. Much better that the old method where you use the nut and a couple washers to force it down. I broke a shaft doing that nonsense.

[tkordy]

Here's the problem i'm getting with mine, maybe someone can help me

- Bank 2 needed to be replaced.. replaced both 1 and 2 using this DIY
- Started it up for the first time and got the code "lost communication to throttle actuator"
- Reset codes, everything seem to work fine.. about 40kms later, got the same error ( limp mode, reduced power etc etc)
- Checked codes again, got the exact same codes, problem with bank 2 and lost communication.

Decided to open it up again today

- figured maybe the "electrical" was busted. so i replaced the new electrical component with the old one to do a little bit of trouble shooting.
- getting the exact same errors, bank 1 seems to be working fine after replacing it.

Any ideas? am i doing something wrong or is it a bigger problem?

Thanks

[kmadey1]

Your DIY is perfect. I replaced both TA's last night and your guidance made it cookie cutter.