DIY: S65 Throttle Actuator

[Yvette]

Well after 4 times engine starts and off, no more increased emission. I was bit worried because I also did spark plugs and it was my first time. Seems all good!

Update: runs like champ!

[JL947]

After going through 4 rebuilt TA's in one day, replaced 4 02 sensors, fuel tank breather valve, brake vacuum sensor (some say it causes limp mode)....no luck.

Two things I plan on replacing are ICV and throttle position sensors. Anything else anyone can recommend is greatly appreciated.

[MisterClutch888]

what's the existing problem?

Originally Posted by JL947

After going through 4 rebuilt TA's in one day, replaced 4 02 sensors, fuel tank breather valve, brake vacuum sensor (some say it causes limp mode)....no luck.

Two things I plan on replacing are ICV and throttle position sensors. Anything else anyone can recommend is greatly appreciated.

[soss]

Thank you for this diy write up. I replaced my throttle actuators and also my fuel tank breather
Valve since it was already opened up. Took me about 3 hours. Hardest part of the job was not breaking any of the brittle connectors.
Thank you M Power Motorsports for the great product and service. I highly recommend.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by soss

Thank you for this diy write up. I replaced my throttle actuators and also my fuel tank breather
Valve since it was already opened up. Took me about 3 hours. Hardest part of the job was not breaking any of the brittle connectors.
Thank you M Power Motorsports for the great product and service. I highly recommend.

Yeah, the friggin connectors took a blue thumb to work out!

[3BMWM]

Help please - have just replaced gear sets in both throttle actuators (Odometer gears) carefully following all instructions and correctly reconnecting all connectors in the reassembly. Have cleared all fault codes except am unable to clear code 5e19 (DSC-DME communication). Any ideas?

Follow up edit: so I went for a test run in limp mode to see if any further codes came up or it cleared the issue - came up with a pre-function test fault on actuator 2 - shite... So now worrying that I'd either not connected something properly or the electrics in the actuator were cactus, I pulled everything back out again (amazing how much quicker it is the second time around - getting really good at reaching those throttle bottle clamps), all connectors seemed well seated, removed cover plate off actuator 2 - gears looked good, no issues present. So now frustrated at not finding any obvious answer and figuring I'm up for a new actuator, I put everything back together, start her up and voila, no fault codes come up. No idea what I did, must have been a connector somewhere not seated 100%. Runs like a dream now, and such a difference with the new actuator gears - feels like a new car.

I would consider replacement of actuator gears in any E9x M3 an absolute essential prerequisite - if you haven't done yours already - do it! My E90 has only 94k km (about 60k miles) and they were obviously worn - poor driveability but no codes at all (prior to the above re-build gremlin). Fortunately I caught mine before any electrical issues arose (touch wood) further down the track. The Odometer Gear instructions were really clear (make sure to follow the current PDF instructions, not the out-of date video) - but a caution that this is not a DIY for the ham-fisted, impatient or lacking the right tools. It would be very easy to screw it up - you are dealing with fragile precision parts.

[ohhgourami]

Originally Posted by 3BMWM

Help please - have just replaced gear sets in both throttle actuators (Odometer gears) carefully following all instructions and correctly reconnecting all connectors in the reassembly. Have cleared all fault codes except am unable to clear code 5e19 (DSC-DME communication). Any ideas?

Follow up edit: so I went for a test run in limp mode to see if any further codes came up or it cleared the issue - came up with a pre-function test fault on actuator 2 - shite... So now worrying that I'd either not connected something properly or the electrics in the actuator were cactus, I pulled everything back out again (amazing how much quicker it is the second time around - getting really good at reaching those throttle bottle clamps), all connectors seemed well seated, removed cover plate off actuator 2 - gears looked good, no issues present. So now frustrated at not finding any obvious answer and figuring I'm up for a new actuator, I put everything back together, start her up and voila, no fault codes come up. No idea what I did, must have been a connector somewhere not seated 100%. Runs like a dream now, and such a difference with the new actuator gears - feels like a new car.

I would consider replacement of actuator gears in any E9x M3 an absolute essential prerequisite - if you haven't done yours already - do it! My E90 has only 94k km (about 60k miles) and they were obviously worn - poor driveability but no codes at all (prior to the above re-build gremlin). Fortunately I caught mine before any electrical issues arose (touch wood) further down the track. The Odometer Gear instructions were really clear (make sure to follow the current PDF instructions, not the out-of date video) - but a caution that this is not a DIY for the ham-fisted, impatient or lacking the right tools. It would be very easy to screw it up - you are dealing with fragile precision parts.

Happened to me as well. When I was putting the actuator back together, one of the pins didn't make contact. Got to be very careful to make sure everything lines up perfectly.

[frankc]

For folks who replaced their MOSFETs, any hints on how to remove the old ones? The small legs were no problem, but I cannot get the MOSFET to release from the large bottom pad.

I have my iron set to 700*F and the solder is melting, but I cannot get the part to move. I don't want to go any hotter and risk damaging the board.

[Macpsi]

Originally Posted by im4ipsc

We just took this out of my friend's M3 and thought I would share a picture of what the definition of "shredded" might be for some of the DIYers on this thread. As a follow on to my recently added tools to use for anyone wanting to change out their TBAs themselves and save a bit of money when compared to the BMW stealerships, the most handy tool was the 11" long flex driver in 6mm that was used to remove the eight clamps on the velocity stacks. I caution you not to use a flex drive that has multiple ends that you switch around as these ends could come off of the back two 6mm clamp's nuts and create even more dilemna for your job. Both the uninstall and the install tasks were a bit easier than using swivel sockets and swivel ratchets as we could "hang" the tool on the 6mm clamp's nut and not push it towards the rubber stop. Pushing the nut towards the rubber stop can lead to the clamp rotating on you even if you have taken the caution of removing as much slack from the clamp so that the clamp does not rotate.

Another trick that I used was I applied some high temp lithium grease to the inside of the rubber on the velocity stacks and I also applied it to the outside of the plastic stacks on the intake manifold (or whatever it is called?). But before I applied the grease to the plastic intake manifold, I took a debur tool and ever so lightly scraped the outside edges of the plastic velocity stacks. I couldn't believe the sharp edges on this plastic which, by my estimation, can catch the rubber rings on the metal velocity stacks and make for installing all eight for difficult (forgot to take a picture). The aforementioned process made the installation go on the first time. But I throw caution to anyone doing the deburring task, just a tiny little bit of plastic removal (debur) is best.

I then, as a matter of good housekeeping, vacuumed out any debris on the plastic intake manifold's rings and inside of it so that no FOD would be present prior to using the lithium grease.

Anyways, sorry for being so lengthy in my Tips & Tricks. I hope that it helps someone else...

This is a golden tip! Was trying a few other tips people have mentioned. Like using a mallet or dead blow lightly to get it to seat. But lithium grease on the boots and it slid right on in! Once again, a little lube in the right places is never a bad idea!

[monkishor]

Hello everyone !

First of all I would like to thank W/// for this amazing DYI thread. The fact that its still active almost 9 years after just shows how well documented it is.

Up until now I was mostly a "ghost reader" on this forum, but since my car has started going into limp mode recently I decided to register and ask your opinion on the symptoms my car has.
I have to say I have read ALL the posts on this thread hoping to find someone with the same codes or symptoms and, unfortunately, the only chap who had EXACTLY the same issues never got an answer and he never followed up with what he did in the end

Anyway, to keep things short:

My car goes from time to time in limp mode, but ONLY at low rpms. First time it was actually idling, while parked and waiting for someone. The other times it did it only below 2000 rpm and usually while going downhill, below 30kph / 20mph without having the foot on the throttle. I never had limp mode come in at full throttle or while accelerating. Limp mode always goes away if I turn the engine off and then start it up again.

I have used Carly and pulled the following codes:

002B39 - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 5
002B3A - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 6
002B3B - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 7
002B3C - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 8
002B41 - Misfiring with shutdown more cylinders
002B57 - Engine emergency program activated
002796 - Engine emergency program activated

Car has never had ANY fault codes before, as I check it every 2-3 weeks and all of those came at the same time.

After getting these codes I immediately started thinking that it might be something that controls the whole driver / LH side bank (no. 2 I believe?), as they all came at the same time.
I thought that if it would have been a bad coil or a bad spark plug, it would have thrown a misfire on only one cylinder.

I went to BMW, as I needed to do the oil change anyway (only reason I'm doing it there is because the car has full BMW maintenance history... value ... bla bla bla). At BMW Monaco they did not even want to check the car because "we do not want to work on modified cars" - car has only an Eventuri filter and Sebring full exhaust. Its not the first time when they refuse to do "preventive work", as I have had arguments with them when asking to change the rod bearings in the past (ended up doing it at another dealership).

Anyway, I decided to take the car to Italy at another BMW dealership, where they were a bit confused as to why I would like to change the throttle actuators. However, after seeing their quote, I decided to just do the oil change and also change the spark plugs, since the car has around 108,000 kms (67k miles) and the last time they were changed it was at 60,000 kms. I hoped that this will clear the issue. The old spark plugs looked in good shape, for their age.
However, after driving the car home, the following day it went again in limp mode, with exactly the same error codes.

Not wanting to spend 1400 Euros on just parts to change the actuators without being sure this is the issue and after reading this entire thread, I have decided to troubleshoot the actuators by changing them from one bank to the other. I had help from a friend of mine who is a mechanic and has all the right tools (having the right tools makes a HUGE difference and makes the job a lot easier). Neither of us have ever worked on the S65, so this thread came in very handy.

My friend uses Launch X431 Pros Mini as a diagnostic tool. Before starting the work, we ran a test with his tool and it came out with the following codes:

2B39 - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 5
2B3A - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 6
2B3B - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 7
2B3C - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 8
002B41 - Misfiring with shutdown more cylinders

It just did not mention the last two which Carly found about the emergency program

After taking everything apart, we realised the car had the original actuators in, based on the stamp.

Moving them from one bank to the other job took around 2 hours. I'm sure that with help it can be done a lot faster, but we really took our time.

After finishing the job, we put everything back together and reset the codes + we deleted the adaptations (but only the ones related to the throttle valves - all others were left "as is").
We went out with the car to test it and after few kilometers, it went again in limp mode, as expected.
HOWEVER, this time, when we read the codes it threw:

2B37 - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 3
2B39 - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 5
2B3A - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 6
2B3B - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 7
2B3C - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 8

The exact same ones as before + cylinder 3, which never came up before.
I was expecting and hoping that the errors will just move from one bank to the other and then I would have just proceeded with ordering the actuators.

Our theory is that maybe, even if we erased the codes, somehow the car remembers them and now because all adaptations, besides the throttle valves are the same as before, the car just throws the same error, thinking it has the same problem as before and also points. I assume that it will still try to use all the other adaptations (ignition, O2, etc...) as it remembered with the faulty actuator on bank 2, which will result in misfires on the same bank, until it re-adapts.

My friend was suggesting to keep driving it around and to erase the errors with Carly 2-3 more times, just to see if eventually it will shift to the other bank. I hope this will be the case, because at least I would have at least found the problem.

The car is also fluctuating a bit at idling while cold start, but this has always been the case since I bought the car, one year ago.

Do you guys think it could be something else (i assume it would have to be one part which is governing the whole bank anyway) Or is it worth changing the actuators ? I see most people on this thread also always get an error related to the actuator. Mine never came up with that and I don't want to throw a large amount of money on it, just to realise that this was not the issue (even if for sure the actuators will go at one point).

I have heard from some other forums that a faulty injector on one of the cylinders could also be the culprit, resulting somehow in misfires on all cylinders on that bank, sending the engine in limp mode.

Other option would be an O2 sensor on that bank ?

Sorry for the long post. Just trying to give as much info as possible.
Any opinion is welcome.

EDIT: took the car out again today and it did not throw any errors. drove it till i got tired of it trying to get it to limp again. HOWEVER, while in idle, while walking around the car, I've noticed that on the left side (somewhere behind the wheel) the exhaust sounds like is leaking. On the right side, it sounds normal. I am wondering if there might not be a leak, just before the O2 sensor, which could end up giving the sensor a faulty reading, sending the engine in limp mode. But in this case, I would asume that if there would be an O2 sensor issue, it would throw an error related to that (either a bad mix of fuel & air, either directly an O2 sensor fault).

[monkishor]

Originally Posted by monkishor

Hello everyone !

First of all I would like to thank W/// for this amazing DYI thread. The fact that its still active almost 9 years after just shows how well documented it is.

Up until now I was mostly a "ghost reader" on this forum, but since my car has started going into limp mode recently I decided to register and ask your opinion on the symptoms my car has.
I have to say I have read ALL the posts on this thread hoping to find someone with the same codes or symptoms and, unfortunately, the only chap who had EXACTLY the same issues never got an answer and he never followed up with what he did in the end

Anyway, to keep things short:

My car goes from time to time in limp mode, but ONLY at low rpms. First time it was actually idling, while parked and waiting for someone. The other times it did it only below 2000 rpm and usually while going downhill, below 30kph / 20mph without having the foot on the throttle. I never had limp mode come in at full throttle or while accelerating. Limp mode always goes away if I turn the engine off and then start it up again.

I have used Carly and pulled the following codes:

002B39 - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 5
002B3A - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 6
002B3B - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 7
002B3C - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 8
002B41 - Misfiring with shutdown more cylinders
002B57 - Engine emergency program activated
002796 - Engine emergency program activated

Car has never had ANY fault codes before, as I check it every 2-3 weeks and all of those came at the same time.

After getting these codes I immediately started thinking that it might be something that controls the whole driver / LH side bank (no. 2 I believe?), as they all came at the same time.
I thought that if it would have been a bad coil or a bad spark plug, it would have thrown a misfire on only one cylinder.

I went to BMW, as I needed to do the oil change anyway (only reason I'm doing it there is because the car has full BMW maintenance history... value ... bla bla bla). At BMW Monaco they did not even want to check the car because "we do not want to work on modified cars" - car has only an Eventuri filter and Sebring full exhaust. Its not the first time when they refuse to do "preventive work", as I have had arguments with them when asking to change the rod bearings in the past (ended up doing it at another dealership).

Anyway, I decided to take the car to Italy at another BMW dealership, where they were a bit confused as to why I would like to change the throttle actuators. However, after seeing their quote, I decided to just do the oil change and also change the spark plugs, since the car has around 108,000 kms (67k miles) and the last time they were changed it was at 60,000 kms. I hoped that this will clear the issue. The old spark plugs looked in good shape, for their age.
However, after driving the car home, the following day it went again in limp mode, with exactly the same error codes.

Not wanting to spend 1400 Euros on just parts to change the actuators without being sure this is the issue and after reading this entire thread, I have decided to troubleshoot the actuators by changing them from one bank to the other. I had help from a friend of mine who is a mechanic and has all the right tools (having the right tools makes a HUGE difference and makes the job a lot easier). Neither of us have ever worked on the S65, so this thread came in very handy.

My friend uses Launch X431 Pros Mini as a diagnostic tool. Before starting the work, we ran a test with his tool and it came out with the following codes:

2B39 - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 5
2B3A - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 6
2B3B - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 7
2B3C - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 8
002B41 - Misfiring with shutdown more cylinders

It just did not mention the last two which Carly found about the emergency program

After taking everything apart, we realised the car had the original actuators in, based on the stamp.

Moving them from one bank to the other job took around 2 hours. I'm sure that with help it can be done a lot faster, but we really took our time.

After finishing the job, we put everything back together and reset the codes + we deleted the adaptations (but only the ones related to the throttle valves - all others were left "as is").
We went out with the car to test it and after few kilometers, it went again in limp mode, as expected.
HOWEVER, this time, when we read the codes it threw:

2B37 - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 3
2B39 - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 5
2B3A - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 6
2B3B - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 7
2B3C - Misfiring with shutdown cylinder 8

The exact same ones as before + cylinder 3, which never came up before.
I was expecting and hoping that the errors will just move from one bank to the other and then I would have just proceeded with ordering the actuators.

Our theory is that maybe, even if we erased the codes, somehow the car remembers them and now because all adaptations, besides the throttle valves are the same as before, the car just throws the same error, thinking it has the same problem as before and also points. I assume that it will still try to use all the other adaptations (ignition, O2, etc...) as it remembered with the faulty actuator on bank 2, which will result in misfires on the same bank, until it re-adapts.

My friend was suggesting to keep driving it around and to erase the errors with Carly 2-3 more times, just to see if eventually it will shift to the other bank. I hope this will be the case, because at least I would have at least found the problem.

The car is also fluctuating a bit at idling while cold start, but this has always been the case since I bought the car, one year ago.

Do you guys think it could be something else (i assume it would have to be one part which is governing the whole bank anyway) Or is it worth changing the actuators ? I see most people on this thread also always get an error related to the actuator. Mine never came up with that and I don't want to throw a large amount of money on it, just to realise that this was not the issue (even if for sure the actuators will go at one point).

I have heard from some other forums that a faulty injector on one of the cylinders could also be the culprit, resulting somehow in misfires on all cylinders on that bank, sending the engine in limp mode.

Other option would be an O2 sensor on that bank ?

Sorry for the long post. Just trying to give as much info as possible.
Any opinion is welcome.

EDIT: took the car out again today and it did not throw any errors. drove it till i got tired of it trying to get it to limp again. HOWEVER, while in idle, while walking around the car, I've noticed that on the left side (somewhere behind the wheel) the exhaust sounds like is leaking. On the right side, it sounds normal. I am wondering if there might not be a leak, just before the O2 sensor, which could end up giving the sensor a faulty reading, sending the engine in limp mode. But in this case, I would asume that if there would be an O2 sensor issue, it would throw an error related to that (either a bad mix of fuel & air, either directly an O2 sensor fault).

just finished the repair...

when we got under the car and took off the exhaust we realised that there was no gasket on the left hand side...

after we put the oem gasket on and changed the one on the right side, the car has changed COMPLETELY. the sound is now smooth and linear... absolutely no more trembling when idling and the car now idles straight at 600rpm.
before there was a small fluctuation and it was always idling around 7-800rpm.

it all makes sense now... because probably the o2 sensor was getting a wrong reading and therefore was chocking the engine at idle, causing the "broken exhaust" sound, shaking and fluctuating idle.
I can now say that the problem was for sure coming from this.

I am absolutely shocked by how the engine runs now...

only took off the bolts from the exhaust and that allowed us to put in the new gasket without having to take off the exhaust.

we went full ghetto and literally did this on the side of the road and it took us around 1 hour in total. (it actually took us more time to put back the cover from underneath the engine than to actually change the gaskets)

Sorry for posting the same message in several threads, but I hope this will help some people with the same symptoms save some $$$.

the repair ended up costing around 10 euros / 15 dollars for both gaskets + 4 bolts.
I read all posts on this thread and no one ended up having the same easy fix, so hopefully this experience will help someone.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by monkishor

just finished the repair...

when we got under the car and took off the exhaust we realised that there was no gasket on the left hand side...

after we put the oem gasket on and changed the one on the right side, the car has changed COMPLETELY. the sound is now smooth and linear... absolutely no more trembling when idling and the car now idles straight at 600rpm.
before there was a small fluctuation and it was always idling around 7-800rpm.

it all makes sense now... because probably the o2 sensor was getting a wrong reading and therefore was chocking the engine at idle, causing the "broken exhaust" sound, shaking and fluctuating idle.
I can now say that the problem was for sure coming from this.

I am absolutely shocked by how the engine runs now...

only took off the bolts from the exhaust and that allowed us to put in the new gasket without having to take off the exhaust.

we went full ghetto and literally did this on the side of the road and it took us around 1 hour in total. (it actually took us more time to put back the cover from underneath the engine than to actually change the gaskets)

Sorry for posting the same message in several threads, but I hope this will help some people with the same symptoms save some $$$.

the repair ended up costing around 10 euros / 15 dollars for both gaskets + 4 bolts.
I read all posts on this thread and no one ended up having the same easy fix, so hopefully this experience will help someone.

What a super nice experience, sorting a suspected bad issue with an hour job and 10 Euro. Doesn't happen often - congrats!

[Addicted2Torque]

Anyone else having issues with MPower Motorsports? Abdul's email is not working (immediately bounced) and can't get anyone on the phone. TA's were supposed to ship over a week ago and have not been received.

[tbone28]

Originally Posted by Addicted2Torque

Anyone else having issues with MPower Motorsports? Abdul's email is not working (immediately bounced) and can't get anyone on the phone. TA's were supposed to ship over a week ago and have not been received.

I just completed a purchase recently. No issues. Abdul a bit slower to respond. Mark a bit faster. Try him
boof@mpowermotorsports.org

[Addicted2Torque]

Thanks tbone28, Mark responded quickly and also heard from Abdul and learned that he had been sick for over a week. They provided tracking and quickly got things straightened out.

[hsaguirre]

This thread and some YouTube videos were great! Changed both throttle body actuators today even the the previous owner had reportedly changed them already…

Turned out he had them rebuilt and the failed about a year into my ownership. Here's a pic of one for example.

Started her back after about a 4 hour job and driving like a dream again.

[tbassny]

Before I order new TAs, just want to confirm based on the codes I’ve been getting intermittingly over the last few months. Since some were unrelated to each other, I first replaced the battery just to rule it out, and had it registered at my local indie shop. Things were good for a few weeks, and the codes starting coming in again. The vehicle is a 2008 E93 M3 with 57K miles. The car enters the limp-home reduced engine power mode, but will often reset itself after a few starts. Here are the codes:

005E19 DSC-ECU serial peripheral interface ID request not accepted
002B57 Engine emergency program activated
002B59 Coolant thermostat monitoring
00278D Generator communication
0027A1 Throttle enable line bank 1
(this one is not consistent, but when I get it, I also get 0027A1: 0027A2 Throttle enable line bank 2)
(also not consistent, but occasionally shows up with the others: 002B65 Idle controller monitoring cold start strategy, have not gotten this one since battery replacement)
Display indicates: Engine malfunction! Reduced Power/DBC malfunction! Drive carefully/Start-off assistance inactive/ DSC malfunction! Drive carefully

I was getting 2B59 and 278D last year every now and then in cold weather, but they would always go away. Yesterday, when I got all of the codes, the car wasn’t warmed up yet, it was super cold outside (10 degrees F), and the interior heat was set to Auto. The moment the codes came on, the fan moved from the lowest setting to the highest (still on Auto) – possibly indicating the thermostat was no longer monitoring the engine temperature, and therefore wasn’t keeping the fan low until engine warm-up? Faulty thermostat as well?

Best bet is to replace the throttle actuators, and replace the thermostat while I’m in there? Any other ideas are welcome. Thanks for feedback

[XKxRome0ox]

How do you disconnect this sensor?????
I watched a video where the guy just seemed to pull it off.
There are small clips but I. Can't disconnect. And I am worried that i will break it

Edit - kinda broke the clip but I took it apart

[XKxRome0ox]

Now how do I flip open these plastic holders?!!!

The second picture is a screen grab from a YouTube video. I cannot figure out how it unclips open

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by XKxRome0ox

Now how do I flip open these plastic holders?!!!

The second picture is a screen grab from a YouTube video. I cannot figure out how it unclips open

Believe you pull the complete clip put of the alu hole, no need to un clip.

[bugg]

Originally Posted by hsaguirre

This thread and some YouTube videos were great! Changed both throttle body actuators today even the the previous owner had reportedly changed them already…

Turned out he had them rebuilt and the failed about a year into my ownership. Here's a pic of one for example.

Started her back after about a 4 hour job and driving like a dream again.

Doesn't sound like a vote of confidence on these rebuilt TAs. My rebuilt ones failed after 2 years, maybe 8000 miles. Might just get FCP Euro replacements instead.

Also, for reference the closest dealership to where I limped after popping TA faults quoted $4400 for replacing both. Roughly $2500 labor.

Update: Looks like my rebuilt ones from Rebuild Actuators in the UK suffered from adhesive failure with the new gears. The shaft slid around while I was removing the actuators. No need to open the TAs to diagnose this one.

View post on imgur.com

[Abdul]

“Rebuilt” units is a very a term with broad spectrum. Someone who changes gears only can classify it as a “Rebuilt” unit. I don’t agree with this at all since replacing the gears only will do nothing for you. You’re on burrowed time once you do this.

We have been selling remanufactured units with a lifetime warranty for almost a decade now. FCP Euro is transitioning into selling our units only since the OEM and VDO units are failing faster than before and they are losing money with their lifetime warranty program.

https://europowermotorsports.com/pro...ttle-actuator/