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12-04-2020, 04:05 PM | #1 |
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Complete OEM Bushing Refresh- Before and after/
I have a relatively low mile car (50K miles) that has brand new oem shocks and oem ride height. Car feels great at speed but at slower speeds and over bumps it feels and sounds clunky.
I've had folks look at it and say it's just fine for what year it is, but I'm chasing that OEM new feel. Has anyone changed a complete bushing update (front and rear + differential + subframe bushings) and can compare the before and after "feel" . Keep in mind it's an 08 so we're talking about bushings that have been around for 13 years. |
12-04-2020, 05:00 PM | #2 | |
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Dinan Adjustable sway bar (custom powdercoated) Rear E93 M3 sway bar upgrade (custom powdercoated). Turner Motorsport solid subframe bushings OEM rear differential bushings replacement Future Classics Spherical bearing trailing arm bushings Rear diff flush Manual transmission flush Motul 600 brake fluid flush New O2 sensors
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12-04-2020, 05:08 PM | #3 | ||
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https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...xm310piecerear https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...m310piecekit-1 |
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12-04-2020, 05:15 PM | #4 | |||
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12-04-2020, 05:17 PM | #5 |
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Did the bushings looked like they need to be replaced or did they pass visual but simply felt "tired" . How was the change right after control arm and toe links?
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12-04-2020, 05:23 PM | #6 | |
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Monoballs gave more control of steering to the road if that makes any sense. The toelinks were a must to keep my car from fishtailing! I'm supercharged! Lol
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12-04-2020, 06:00 PM | #7 | |
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12-04-2020, 10:03 PM | #8 | ||
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I assume upgraded parts will bring a change. I shy away from most upgrades as there can be post upgrade regret caused by increased NVH. I've seen online posts recommending upgraded engine mounts that are way stiffer than stock. They lapse in warning the that the driver will feel the engine on their lap. |
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12-05-2020, 06:31 AM | #9 |
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I had mine redone in the spring. Used OEM for all but the subframe to chassis bushings (went with Turner full Al), also re-used the poly front control arm bushing that I had installed previously. My subframe was getting a little sad looking so I bought a used one and had it powder coated. Car had about 160k miles. Replaced shocks with ZCP set with 32k miles. Also used Turner tie rod ends and Vorshlag camber plates that I picked up used. ECS trailing arms too.
Couple issues to be aware of. The shop felt that the differential bushings listed in Real OEM were too large. They had an alternate data base (All Data ?) that specified a M5 bushing. OEM Differential Bushings https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1716645 Make sure that the positions of the bolts securing the drive shaft to the differential are noted! BMW did some 'balancing' of the assembly. Some years utilize special washers others bolts with more thread. This lead to much frustration as I pulled a Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft out to verify that was the cause. Note that the TIS says the bolts are one time use. Also the bushings for the rear suspension arms require special tools that precompress the bushings. If one was going to stick with OEM subframe bushings, consider getting the entire new rear subframe. The bushings are all pre installed. This would make sense if one had to paint the existing subframe like I did. I think between powder coating and labor the new piece would be a competitive price. If going after market bushings this would make less sense. I think the biggest difference in driving was the worn shocks and the subframe bushings. Car feels great in turns. No more rear end wiggle. |
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12-05-2020, 08:08 AM | #10 | |
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Until then, periodically check them. If you can twist and rod side to side with one hand and hear metal contact at either end of the range, the rubber has loosened up. I had one on each side on the rear that was like that and replaced those. I also replaced my upper strut bearings. I did the subframe bushings with 75D poly to reduce the rear end wiggle, which can be done at any mileage if you want to improve handling in transitions. I did the diff bushings with 95A poly to protect the diff but there is some whine as a result. The rest of my suspension is original apart from a used set of B8 and H&R springs and a bigger front swaybar (that required adjustable endlinks). I am at 108k miles. I’ll preventatively replace more as I inch towards the kind of mileage drrust has. I did try, separately, stiffer motor and trans mounts. Each added NVH and I removed each and went to new stock. |
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12-05-2020, 03:45 PM | #11 | |
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that's awesome. So after you did everything. basically felt like a firmer "brand new" suspension???
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12-05-2020, 09:52 PM | #12 | ||
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12-06-2020, 12:38 PM | #13 |
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One other item. The bolts for the upper arms may require the removal of the rear hub & brake shield. I think some have found a work around, but at that point it was decided to replace the rear bearings. The shop had an issue with the OEM bearings that were purchased through ECS in that the speed sensor wasn't registering. They ended up putting in another set purchased from BMW. Those worked. My initial thoughts were to get the Fall Line F80 hubs, but this was in March/April at the start of the Pandemic and I wasn't sure how things would go at my work. Just getting the rear bearings was sort of 'since you pulled the hub'
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12-06-2020, 07:06 PM | #14 |
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Just posted this info if anyone is interested to do a full spherical conversion for the rear suspension arms:
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showth...3#post26987513 |
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