e92 m3 rear sway bar links, impossible to remove old link?

[ryguy0492]

Hey guys so I really can't find any info on this.

For the REAR sway bar end links. The bottom link has a bolt, and to remove that bolt you unscrew it (backs the bolt head up) against the axle. Right before you can unscrew the bolt another turn it's tight against the hub of the axle. There doesn't seem to be any play in the axle or that area at all.

Any ideas? Can't find anyone else doing this online.

[ryguy0492]

its the 2:00 mark in this video, but even they can't capture a good angle.

Also this fellow can easily access the bolt, his axle is a bit further away. This is an e90 sedan and I have an e92 m3 however.

[slicer]

Originally Posted by ryguy0492

Hey guys so I really can't find any info on this.

For the REAR sway bar end links. The bottom link has a bolt, and to remove that bolt you unscrew it (backs the bolt head up) against the axle. Right before you can unscrew the bolt another turn it's tight against the hub of the axle. There doesn't seem to be any play in the axle or that area at all.

Any ideas? Can't find anyone else doing this online.

I unscrewed them as far as I could and then cut them off with a dremel tool. Be sure to leave enough of the bolt remaining to unscrew it by hand.

[nschmdbrg]

Originally Posted by slicer

I unscrewed them as far as I could and then cut them off with a dremel tool. Be sure to leave enough of the bolt remaining to unscrew it by hand.

I am having the same problem. So if you had to cut the old bolt to remove it, how did you get the new bolt in?

[nschmdbrg]

Originally Posted by ryguy0492

Hey guys so I really can't find any info on this.

For the REAR sway bar end links. The bottom link has a bolt, and to remove that bolt you unscrew it (backs the bolt head up) against the axle. Right before you can unscrew the bolt another turn it's tight against the hub of the axle. There doesn't seem to be any play in the axle or that area at all.

Any ideas? Can't find anyone else doing this online.

So what did you end up doing to replace your rear end link? I am having the same problem. Did you have to unbolt any of the other suspension components to get the necessary clearance to remove and replace the bolt?

[slicer]

Originally Posted by nschmdbrg

I am having the same problem. So if you had to cut the old bolt to remove it, how did you get the new bolt in?

Originally Posted by nschmdbrg

So what did you end up doing to replace your rear end link? I am having the same problem. Did you have to unbolt any of the other suspension components to get the necessary clearance to remove and replace the bolt?

The new bolt was shorter and/or the aftermarket end link allowed for more clearance due to it being thinner. I installed Fall-Line rear end links.

[M43S7RO]

Same, I used a shorter, higher grade bolt from a local nut & bolt store. I've been using them with the Hotchkis sway bar with BW endlinks since Feb 2019 with no issues.

Originally Posted by slicer

The new bolt was shorter and/or the aftermarket end link allowed for more clearance due to it being thinner. I installed Fall-Line rear end links.

[TrueToBMW]

Does anyone know the torque values for the rear sway bar end links? been looking for 30 minutes and can't find it.

[SAMM3Y]

Originally Posted by TrueToBMW

Does anyone know the torque values for the rear sway bar end links? been looking for 30 minutes and can't find it.

43ftlbs

[M3SWEETNESS]

Like everyone is mentioning, unscrew the bolt out as much as possible. Use a Dremel or cutting tool to remove 3/4 of the bolt that's unscrewed. Then use your fingers to unscrew the rest and remove the end link. The factory rear endlinks have a bolt that is to long to remove without doing WAY to much to axels and hubs to save the bolt. Trust me, I did the LONG way of removing the axle to save the bolt since I was thinking of reusing it. Such a pain in the ass and not worth it. I was installing the Hotchkis sway bars and end links as well.... huge difference in handling. Then the aftermarket endlinks and bolts go in with ease due to the shorten sizes difference.

[TrueToBMW]

Originally Posted by SAMM3Y

43ftlbs

Thanks

Is that on both ends (to the subframe and sway bar)?

[SAMM3Y]

Originally Posted by TrueToBMW

Thanks

Is that on both ends (to the subframe and sway bar)?

Just the 16mm link to sway bar. The 13mm to hub you can't get a torque wrench on anyway so I did mine tight enough with a wrench

[TrueToBMW]

Originally Posted by SAMM3Y

Just the 16mm link to sway bar. The 13mm to hub you can't get a torque wrench on anyway so I did mine tight enough with a wrench

That makes sense. Thanks

[e9x_m3]

What is the length and size of the bolt you guys replaced the OEM one with?

[dazzabro]

Originally Posted by ryguy0492

Hey guys so I really can't find any info on this.

For the REAR sway bar end links. The bottom link has a bolt, and to remove that bolt you unscrew it (backs the bolt head up) against the axle. Right before you can unscrew the bolt another turn it's tight against the hub of the axle. There doesn't seem to be any play in the axle or that area at all.

Any ideas? Can't find anyone else doing this online.

I have the 335i E92 and I just did this - surely it's not that different from the M3 other than the swaybar size. I just backed out the bottom droplink bolt (make sure you jack the rear of the car up first of course to take tension off the bar). The bolt came all the way out - yes it does hit the axle but if you unscrew the top bolt of the droplink as well you will have lots of play in the droplink to actually remove the bottom bolt rather easily.

Getting the bottom bolt back in with the new droplinks was a little bit of a pain finding the thread tip, but not that much of a hassle really. It's just a tight space to work in and you can only use a 13mm spanner to make small turns of the bottom bolt. Shouldn't need to cut the bolt or remove axles etc.

[nycplumber]

A regular 3 series is not the same. Bolt must be cut or bent to be removed.

[SCMTX]

Agreed, you must cut the lower end link bolt to remove. While you're replacing bolts, my suggestion is to get hex head bolts to replace the allen head bolts mounting the sway bar to the subframe. It took me forever to get the rear bolt out on one side....I still have to do the passenger side. I assume access is much easier if I remove the fuel filler hose? My subframe is currently lowered, but I haven't taken any of the bolts completely out yet. This project is one of the biggest PITA projects I can think of. I skipped it on an e90 M3, regretting this process on my e92.... Someone please tell me it's worth it on a track. The car has solid subframe bushings, B16 damptronic, plus a front Hotchkis and now adding the rear. 285 30/18 RT660 square....I haven't tried these tires yet, getting the car ready for MSR Cresson on Monday.

[SYT_Shadow]

I ran the Hotchkis bar with stock end links front and rear

Did the same on the F80

[911r]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

I ran the Hotchkis bar with stock end links front and rear

Did the same on the F80

Experience any issues with preload?

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by 911r

Experience any issues with preload?

No. It worked well on the E9X and then i used the same on the F8X

I prefer oem end links whenever possible. Quieter and cheaper!

[Davisca455]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

I ran the Hotchkis bar with stock end links front and rear

Did the same on the F80

For your E9x (MCSs?), how was the bar clearance to the height sensor on the driver's side front?
I'm at OEM ride height (OEM EDC/springs), and it is TIGHT at full droop.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Davisca455

For your E9x (MCSs?), how was the bar clearance to the height sensor on the driver's side front?
I'm at OEM ride height (OEM EDC/springs), and it is TIGHT at full droop.

I'm not sure. I don't have the E90 with me so I can't check. Hopefully after July sometime I get it back