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      11-12-2015, 07:08 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrettfordE92 View Post
On cold starts the car would shake like crazy, I know they always do that a little bit on cold startups, but it was really bad. And every once in a while I heard something similar to what the 6mt guys hear when their mounts are bad, a kind of grind that would happen on a shift if the trans and motor weren't lined up. In any case, they needed to be replaced as you can see.
Wow this mount is really damaged

How easy is this DIY for a noob?
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      11-29-2015, 05:23 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S65-M3 View Post
Wow this mount is really damaged

How easy is this DIY for a noob?
+1
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      12-06-2015, 04:54 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cbozz View Post
Did you have any vibrations from the engine?

How hard was the DIY with these instructions?
I didn't really notice anything wrong which is pretty crazy considering I effectively had 1 engine mount.

It was easy for me using my new 2post lift and electric impact guns/socket wrenches. Personally I gave up doing anything underneath the car on jack stands. It's terrible. And electric impact guns save a lot of elbow grease..
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      03-29-2016, 01:36 PM   #26
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It's safe to assume these mounts have a life expectancy of 40-50k?
I haven't inspected my own mounts yet and I was thinking of just buying the mounts anyway and swapping them out.
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      04-14-2016, 02:58 AM   #27
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Has anyone used Meyle mounts?
eg http://www.ebay.com/itm/251871021409...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Or should I stick to OEM from the dealer for twice the price?
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      04-14-2016, 08:52 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nugget View Post
Has anyone used Meyle mounts?
eg http://www.ebay.com/itm/251871021409...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Or should I stick to OEM from the dealer for twice the price?
Meyle are ok parts usually. Better than Uro. Lemforder is the preferred choice in most cases.
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      05-01-2016, 02:38 PM   #29
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Thanks to the OP and contributors! Here are a few more pictures and tips for those who haven't done this yet:

Tip #1: For about $30, pick up a 16MM ratcheting box wrench like this one here The "flex" head feature was not needed for this job, but the 12" length was very helpful. A shorter wrench would have been harder to work with. This tool saved me a lot of time and frustration working in such a tight space:





Tip #2: Be prepared to remove this plastic Servotronic wiring harness holder found on the driver's side of the car. It has a phillips head screw held in place by a metal clip identical to the ones used to hold the felt composite under body panels at the front of the car. I ended up borrowing someone else's mini ratchet and bit set (like this one here) to remove it after I realized my stubby screw driver set wasn't short enough to fit in the tight space:





If by chance by you accidentally break the white plastic snap in connector on the servotronic wiring harness like I did, you can buy a replacement for less than $10 online by searching BMW part number 61129115546. You can easily access and replace it at a later date by just removing the driver's side front wheel.

Last edited by Theodore; 05-01-2016 at 03:35 PM..
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      05-25-2016, 06:56 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by downtowncb View Post
8. Stack the 4x4’s under the oil pan and then very slowly lower both jacks a little at a time until the engine is resting on the 4x4’s. Continue to lower the jacks about an inch, paying very close attention to the engine in the engine bay, stop lowering before the top of the intake manifold contacts the aluminum strut bars. You should see that the engine has separated from the top of the mounts at this point, but not enough to remove them. Alternatively, if you have access to an engine stand you could make this process much easier by just lifting the engine by the lifting ring on the front of the engine.
this is where i get kinda lost... why not raise the engine instead of lowering the car around the stationary engine? is this because the K member is in the way or something?
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      05-29-2016, 06:08 PM   #31
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i figured there was a reason, but the reason wasn't explained because it wasn't done that way.
there also doesn't seem to be any mention of the transmission mount... doesn't moving the engine without loosening that mount put some stress on it.
i'm only asking because i'm a n00b and may be doing this soon, just not sure if i want to try it myself...
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      11-19-2016, 02:17 PM   #32
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Doing mine next week, 75K on the clock and the tech at the shop said "absolutely blown" when he took a look at em.

Anyone have a "book time" on this job? Haven't used this shop before and just want to make sure they don't tell me 6 when its a 2.5.

Thx.
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      11-21-2016, 06:41 PM   #33
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Well they charged me 6. Fuck me in the ass
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      11-22-2016, 04:02 PM   #34
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I made mine couple week later

It take me 4hours

Maybe if you know What To Do and How Do it, it takes 2 hours
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      02-20-2017, 11:42 AM   #35
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Inspected mine today - 51k miles, 14k miles supercharged

Are they supposed to collapse a little bit from the engine weight? No cracks anywhere that I can see, no fluid

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      02-20-2017, 12:40 PM   #36
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It's not going to be super obvious they're dead/dying until they're unbolted unfortunately, unless they're REALLY bad already
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      02-20-2017, 03:06 PM   #37
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Does anyone know if they should collapse a little from the weight of the engine? Debating just waiting until I do rod bearings, rather than tackling this now in my garage.
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      07-02-2017, 10:23 PM   #38
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Just did this on my personal car today.

You don't need to drop the car from the engine per say. Chances are you will want jack the engine as high as possible AND drop the subframe leaving just the front 2 bolts (by tierod) loosened. Then you can work with a pry bar while you get the mounts out and in. I used a second jack to jack the subframe back up to bolt in, but then realized it was light enough for me to just push with one arm.

It's actually a very easy motor mount service compared to other cars i've done. Been procrastinating on doing them. I've done a few e46 subframe/motormounts, honda motormounts etc. Took about 1.5 hours. Most of it was trying to get the top bolt off the mounts, I think the most difficult part. I had a shallow enough socket/ratchet but it wasn't long enough for me to get leverage.

Mine were completely flat. The new ones were a little under a inch taller!

If anyone was wondering

Furthest back Subframe bolt is a 16mm (2. 1 one each side)
The rest are 18mm (6. 3 one each side)




E36/E46/E9x M3 mounts are interchangeable. Some aftermarket ones are not as big as the factory ones, which are probably fine.

People should post up any aftermarket ones that are different size so we can see all the different variations!
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      07-06-2017, 09:18 AM   #39
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[IMG][/IMG]

These were mine after 65k miles. I guess its safe to say they should probably be changed out around every 50k miles?
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      07-31-2017, 03:58 PM   #40
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Hate it when the pics on older threads just doesn't show anymore....
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      07-31-2017, 04:28 PM   #41
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I replaced the engine mounts when I had the rod bearings replaced... at 70k, they were pretty beat up. Compared to new mounts, the old ones were 1/2 inch shorter and torn along the edge.

With the new mounts, the car is so smooth, shifting is smooth and a vibration on the highway I always thought was because of an unevenly worn tire went away completely. Engine mounts definitely made an improvement I can feel immediately.
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      08-17-2017, 09:48 AM   #42
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Bummed that the photos for this DIY are no longer loading.
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      08-17-2017, 04:03 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vincE92M3 View Post
Bummed that the photos for this DIY are no longer loading.
If on computer just right click and open the pic in a new tab. Same if you are on a phone, just open the pic in a new tab to view
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      10-31-2017, 03:04 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razif View Post
Hate it when the pics on older threads just doesn't show anymore....
it's because of god damn photobucket.
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