Track forum general chit chat.

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by b4hand

Why wouldn't it be pad deposits?

I've had pad deposits before and could feel them on the rotor, this is a bit different. Rotors are clean.

It's only at high speeds, feels perfectly smooth braking hard at lower speeds. I also have some pretty aggressive pads (CT XP20, PFC 11) that should have cleaned off any deposits. Also these pads shouldn't be leaving deposits.

Edit: Just noticed on the drive home that just lifting off the throttle abruptly after accelerating makes the steering wheel shake as well.

[leftfootbr8king]

Might sound silly but: Are all your lug nuts tight?

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by leftfootbr8king

Might sound silly but: Are all your lug nuts tight?

Yes, 120 Nm. They’ve only been in use for a year with just yesterday’s track day and are in pretty good condition.

[dparm]

Could be a lot of things...ball joint, motor mount, giubo, etc. Might want to get it up on jack stands and look for anything that's loose or bent.

[Samo6556]

Originally Posted by Ximian

I have a terrible brake judder braking from speeds higher than 40 MPH, but nothing below that.

That's not pads deposits, it's something with the suspension right?

If it's happening only when braking then it's the brakes. warped rotors, pad deposits, stuck caliper, etc

[Exclusivs]

AntiGravity battery guys:

Which model? And why?

Cheers

[Samo6556]

Originally Posted by Exclusivs

AntiGravity battery guys:

Which model? And why?

Cheers

I like where this is headed.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by Exclusivs

AntiGravity battery guys:

Which model? And why?

Cheers

Voltphreaks. Lighter.

[Exclusivs]

Originally Posted by Samo6556

I like where this is headed.

Yes!

Been talked about enough..

Trigger time

[berns]

Originally Posted by Exclusivs

AntiGravity battery guys:

Which model? And why?

Cheers

H6-30-RS
Fits in the stock location with no extra hardware. Shaves 46.3lbs off the rear. Holds a charge forever, and has the RESTART feature if you've ever left it too long (somehow). You'll never need a jump.
Just started my car today after sitting for a month and the battery still had 93% charge. My car doesn't have an alarm, which I'd assume has more draw, but still, the AG stuff has never let me down.

Message me on IG and I'm happy to put you in touch with the right dude there to get you taken care of.

[redpriest]

I did the H6-60-RS for my e92. Was being conservative because the chill out chiller can draw 20 amps so I wanted to be sure.

[MilehighM3]

Originally Posted by berns

H6-30-RS
Fits in the stock location with no extra hardware. Shaves 46.3lbs off the rear. Holds a charge forever, and has the RESTART feature if you've ever left it too long (somehow). You'll never need a jump.
Just started my car today after sitting for a month and the battery still had 93% charge. My car doesn't have an alarm, which I'd assume has more draw, but still, the AG stuff has never let me down.

Message me on IG and I'm happy to put you in touch with the right dude there to get you taken care of.

This is interesting. I've used anti gravity jump packs before that seem to be decent, but not their replacement vehicle batteries. Do you, or anyone else, have experience comparing them with options from Braille? Aside from cost, would one be better than the other? If so I'm all ears...
TIA

Here's a link to one option. At under 10 lbs they feel like a mock up battery, not a real one. I've installed some of these, but never pulled the trigger. I have a smaller option version for my trolling motor in my kayak, but that's as far as I go here.

https://braillebattery.com/collectio...oducts/i34ce-1

[DRLane]

I bought the AG H6 24Ah. It's 9.8lbs. They're now classifying it as "race only".

Haven't installed yet but I don't foresee any problems. Probably not the ideal daily solution…

I'll get around to it this week. Then weigh and dyno the car for NASA.

[Kelse92]

Originally Posted by Exclusivs

AntiGravity battery guys:

Which model? And why?

Cheers

I have the AG-H6-40-RS and it’s been flawless

[Exclusivs]

Originally Posted by berns

H6-30-RS
Fits in the stock location with no extra hardware. Shaves 46.3lbs off the rear. Holds a charge forever, and has the RESTART feature if you've ever left it too long (somehow). You'll never need a jump.
Just started my car today after sitting for a month and the battery still had 93% charge. My car doesn't have an alarm, which I'd assume has more draw, but still, the AG stuff has never let me down.

Message me on IG and I'm happy to put you in touch with the right dude there to get you taken care of.

No alarm on mine either - but have idrive /edc so something I need to keep considered.
Do you keep yours on trickle?

Originally Posted by redpriest

I did the H6-60-RS for my e92. Was being conservative because the chill out chiller can draw 20 amps so I wanted to be sure.

Wonder weight difference from the 60 to the 40.

[Ximian]

Took out the car for a drive after letting it sit for a day, no steering wheel judder under braking until the car warms up. No the brakes, just the rest of the car.

I was able to get some judder while braking in a turn but generally doesn't happen in a straight line at < 50 MPH.

Took the wheels off and did some rudimentary tests. The FL thrust arm has a bit of play (doesn't come out well in video). The wishbone has quite a bit of play, but I don't know how much is fine. FR thrust arm is stiff, wishbone is a bit loose as well.

How much is play here is normal?

[Ximian]

Rudimentary runout test on the rotors -

FR - all good on both sides:

FL - inside rubs a bit:

Not quite convinced yet it's a warped rotor so I'm always careful and do two cool down laps, plus driving around the roads inside the track. I might take off the wheel and rotor and sand down the area it sits on to make sure it's not something uneven there.

I installed the PFC 83 pads on both sides, FL rotor hat was hitting the pad. FR was perfectly fine. I tested this further by installing the XP20 pad on the FL and keeping the PFC 83 on the FR, no noise from anything hitting the hat.

[///M3 Gusta]

Originally Posted by Ximian

I've had pad deposits before and could feel them on the rotor, this is a bit different. Rotors are clean.

It's only at high speeds, feels perfectly smooth braking hard at lower speeds. I also have some pretty aggressive pads (CT XP20, PFC 11) that should have cleaned off any deposits. Also these pads shouldn't be leaving deposits.

Edit: Just noticed on the drive home that just lifting off the throttle abruptly after accelerating makes the steering wheel shake as well.

I've had this happen on another car before, it turned out to be a tire with a slipped cord. I drove myself crazy trying to find the cause of that one.

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by ///M3 Gusta

I've had this happen on another car before, it turned out to be a tire with a slipped cord. I drove myself crazy trying to find the cause of that one.

I initially thought it was wheel weights as well, but it also happened with the track set of wheels and tires.

It's the control arms in my case - https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpo...ostcount=17572

[Exclusivs]

Topic of earlier discussion:

Rebuilt/Rebuilding Shifters

Personal background on my E92 shifter experience over the years:

-Disliked OEM. Everything, from the gooseneck to the “notchy” shifter, to the light clutch pedal. It all felt off.

…With that, ran to the forums looking to find the remedy.

Enter Rouge Engineering ssk, + clutch stop, and ZHP knob.

Seemed ok for a short period. Probably placebo. One day ZHP knob came flying off mid shift! Decided time to install the OEM Gooseneck back on the car.

Back the gooseneck went, and drove like that for quite some time. Still unsatisfied.

Current: Fully returned to oem all. Oem shifter, gooseneck, removed clutch pedal stop, and I actually really enjoyed the return back. Been driving in this form, but still searching for better “feel” overall.

I realize, this will be like all other exhaust threads; IE, subjective & opinionated.
(Not looking to do CAE/or chassis mounted shifter)

[tsk94]

Originally Posted by Exclusivs

Topic of earlier discussion:

Rebuilt/Rebuilding Shifters

Personal background on my E92 shifter experience over the years:

-Disliked OEM. Everything, from the gooseneck to the “notchy” shifter, to the light clutch pedal. It all felt off.

…With that, ran to the forums looking to find the remedy.

Enter Rouge Engineering ssk, + clutch stop, and ZHP knob.

Seemed ok for a short period. Probably placebo. One day ZHP knob came flying off mid shift! Decided time to install the OEM Gooseneck back on the car.

Back the gooseneck went, and drove like that for quite some time. Still unsatisfied.

Current: Fully returned to oem all. Oem shifter, gooseneck, removed clutch pedal stop, and I actually really enjoyed the return back. Been driving in this form, but still searching for better “feel” overall.

I realize, this will be like all other exhaust threads; IE, subjective & opinionated.
(Not looking to do CAE/or chassis mounted shifter)

Autosolutions

[kayha12]

Interior wiring/electrical boxes weight reduction:

Hey guys, recently dyno'd the car and it looks like I've got some room to do some weight reduction for TT3. The car is currently somewhere around 3350 lbs, so 3550 with my fat ass and some fuel. The interior carpet is out, 4 pt roll bar, aftermarket bucket seats are in, and we've pretty much have only removed the subs and while all other electrical is still there.

Question is, what else is "easy" to remove without the ecu going crazy or without pulling the complete harness and thinning it out wire by wire? I know there's a few "amp" looking boxes.