DIY Spark Plug Change W/PHOTOS

[nitrojunky]

Originally Posted by thekurgan

^^^ use your fingers and that won't happen

it was broken by the prior owner. i broke none of my spark plug coils.

[ycb]

did my plugs today. 63300 km. passenger rear is pain for sure. esp. trying to get it to torque spec.

growls differently. don't notice anything else yet.

[TxStig]

Apparently they will be back up on Amazon within the next week or so.

[xaappx]

Originally Posted by TxStig

Apparently they will be back up on Amazon within the next week or so.

what are they called?

[Beemdog]

I got this one from Amazon earlier in the year: Division M DM-E9X-001 Blue - Ignition Coil Pulling Tool for E9X BMW M3

[Amirsm3]

Hmmm one of my coil wires wiggled loose so on my second drive I got a misfire. Stopped the car (luckily I was on the way to work and was already in my garage), took the engine bay apart and found one of the wires came off the coil. Plugged it back in, no misfire, but I still get all the check engine lights. Am I going to have to get this reset? (Nearest BMW dealer is 200 miles away).

[Amirsm3]

Little update: The engine malfunction code went away, but the increased emissions code is still present. Should I pull the negative terminal on the battery and try "resetting" the ECU?

[Amirsm3]

Ok, so in case anyone is a moron like me, just pull the negative terminal off if you pop the increased emissions code and it'll go away

[nicksm3]

Originally Posted by Amirsm3

Ok, so in case anyone is a moron like me, just pull the negative terminal off if you pop the increased emissions code and it'll go away

lol thanks mate!

[admranger]

Originally Posted by Beemdog

I got this one from Amazon earlier in the year: Division M DM-E9X-001 Blue - Ignition Coil Pulling Tool for E9X BMW M3

Same one I bought. Works great and along with this DIY really helped speed things along.

[jqsmooth]

Thanks for the great write up and pictures. Your post is giving me a lot of confidence to do this myself. Without pictures, it's all greek to me. haha I'm 67k and i believe the dealer did it at 37k. I just need to get the right tools and the courage to go forward...

[noneedlessnoise]

This thread helped a ton doing this yesterday. Have the TXStig tool but I used an ethernet cable to get the two coils against the firewall out, made it a lot easier. Those coils are really difficult to get back in because there's not a lot of leverage. Putting the last one in I dropped the TXStig tool into my engine bay and it's now sitting on top of the engine splash guard.

[msan]

Originally Posted by noneedlessnoise

Those coils are really difficult to get back in because there's not a lot of leverage. Putting the last one in I dropped the TXStig tool into my engine bay and it's now sitting on top of the engine splash guard.

If it makes you feel better i dropped it 3 times trying to shove the last coil in by the passenger side firewall. Luckily I could jack up the car and fish for it with a magnet tool. Fun times

[noneedlessnoise]

Originally Posted by msan

If it makes you feel better i dropped it 3 times trying to shove the last coil in by the passenger side firewall. Luckily I could jack up the car and fish for it with a magnet tool. Fun times

How the heck did you do that? I gave up last night and decided I was just going to take the splash shield off to get it out. The last passenger side coil is REALLY hard to get back in.

[msan]

Originally Posted by noneedlessnoise

How the heck did you do that? I gave up last night and decided I was just going to take the splash shield off to get it out. The last passenger side coil is REALLY hard to get back in.

I'd jack up passenger front and take wheel off . Use a flashlight and see the coil puller and bring it close to the opening above the metal belly tray and grab it. Didn't want to mess with the belly tray but that might be faster. My way just had to take the wheel off...

[RedCardinal]

After watching a few videos and reading some other posts, I did my first spark plug change on my e93 M3 a few days ago. I like OP's method of getting to the plugs over others, because this way there are the fewest things to take out or move.

TL:dr: Get the coil pulling tool. Absolutely use a universal joint with an extension and a swivel spark plug socket - and have several lengths of extensions. And finally, try a 6.5x150 flathead screwdriver and some penetrating oil if you over-tighten the spark plug and break off the threaded part.

I was initially against getting the coil pulling tool, preferring to jerry-rig a wire-hanger or use ethernet cable instead of spending money on it. However after reading other posts of people saying it sped the whole thing along, I decided that for me, speed was more important that doing it for free with existing things. Mostly because I was doing it in my apartment building's garage and I'm not supposed to be working on the car in there. So I wanted to get it done quickly.

I can say that it's great. I pulled out the easy-to-access coils in a second. Even the difficult ones took me a few minutes max to figure out (using a long screwdriver to lever out the tool was helpful).

For the actual spark plugs, I used a swivel spark plug socket - but also a universal joint, and few different length extensions. This was the only way for me to reach the difficult spark plugs and it was not difficult to do. Having the universal joint in particular was great.

My only surprise was when I was using the torque wrench on the 6th new plug when suddenly and for no reason, I over-tightened and broke the threaded part of the plug off, while it was threaded in the chamber. I didn't overtighten it past the click much, but much isn't required at that point before it breaks. I didn't realize something was really wrong until I tried to unscrew the spark plug and sparks came shooting out of the chamber. I pulled out the socket and saw the "naked" spark plug still in the spark plug socket but missing the silver threaded part, and said oh shit.

I opened the trunk and disconnected the negative battery terminal. This was particularly unfortunate for me because I am overdue (now) for emissions inspection and every time I disconnect the battery (I just replaced the EDC), I reset the computer.

Breaking it off also bummed me out for a few other reasons:

• I had just done 6 other plugs and torqued them to one click so wtf was I thinking.
• I was not supposed to be doing this in my apartment building's garage so I was trying to get it done quickly;
• Because I wasn't supposed to be doing this there, I hid the car in a spot that was difficult to see, which was between a few tight support pillars;
• If I couldn't get the threaded part out, the car would have to be towed from between these pillars, on the LL floor of an underground garage with tight maneuverability.

Anyway: I did the last sparkplug change and then started googling. One of the great things about the internet is, you're not the first to do that dumb-ass move. I was pleasantly surprised to find a whole bunch of hits right off. I read one account of someone using a flat-head screwdriver and some penetrating oil. Ok. So I get a few flatheads, and eyeballed their widths against an old plug: my goal was to find a screwdriver that was about the same width or a tiny bit wider.

I ended up using a 6.5x150 screwdriver (6.5mm tip, 150mm in length). I sprayed wd-40 on it (the penetrating oil I had around) and some in the chamber to try to coat the threads of the spark plug piece. I was not psyched to spray penetrating oil in the chamber, but I had read it was ok. Later when I warmed up the engine I saw some smoke and got a horrible smell, but I turned off the car and didnt see it again.

Although I suppose I should have waited longer for the penetrating oil to penetrate, I only waited maybe 5 minutes before inserting the screwdriver into the chamber. When I felt the screwdriver scraping against the threads, I gave it a few firm taps.Then I slowly turned it to the left, in the hopes that I was unscrewing the piece. It felt like I was - there was some firm resistance. I kept turning to the left and then the resistance disappeared! I was psyched. I pulled the screwdriver out and - no part. I stuck an extending magnetic tool down there and that grabbed it. I made sure that I had all the pieces by comparing it to a plug I had just removed. The little washer had also came out.

Then because I only had ordered 8 plugs, I didn't have another one to put in the car, until - duh - I realized I had 8 plugs I could use. So of course I put an old one back in until I could order up a new one.

As Sean Connery said about torque wrenches, "One click only, Vasili."

[Thtkidwihthem3]

Originally Posted by Sean05

Ill make this quick and short. FYI DRIVER SIDE IS EASY.. PASSENGER IS A PITA... you will sweat..

EDIT: YOU HAVE TO BE REALLY CAREFUL ON THE COILS.. IF YOU DONT HAVE THE PULLER YOU CAN BREAK THE TOP OF THE COIL AND WILL MAKE IT MORE HARDER TO DO. ALSO WHEN PUTTING THE COILS BACK IN.. MAKE SURE YOU HEAR A POP.

Step 1.
YOU NEED

Spark Plugs NGK LKR8AP (4471)
10mm Socket with extension
Torx screw driver (T25) to remove air intake box.
Coil Pack Removal Tool - By TxStig (ITS A MUST) if you want this fast and easy.
Flat Head Screw Driver.
Spark Plug Socket x2 one with rubber and one without to hold the sparkplug when putting it in...


REMOVE THE INTAKE BOX


THEN REMOVE THE SPARK PLUG COVER (SLOWLY LIFT THE COVER ON BOTH ENDS


THEN THIS IS WHAT YOU SEE..


UNPLUG THE COIL FROM THE POWER SOURCE..



NOW START PULLING THE COILS START FROM THE BACK






NOW TAKE THE PLUGS OUT..



NOW DO THE SAME TO ALL THE OTHER PLUGS.

BEFORE AND AFTER DEALER PLUGS AND AMAZON PLUGS ARE EXACT SAME THING.. ALSO BEFORE PUTTING THE PLUGS IN MAKE SURE THAT SPARK PLUG GAPS ARE NOT TOUCHING THE MIDDLE PIN.. MAKE SURE THAT ALL PLUGS ARE GAP PROPERLY... USUALLY PLUGS ARE GAP PROPERLY FROM THE MANUFACTURE SO NO NEED TO GAP THEM JUST MAKE SURE.


NOW PUT IT BACK IN TORQUE IT PROPERLY AND PUT EVERYTHING BACK...


PUT THE COVER BACK


BEFORE YOU PUT EVERYTHING BACK WHILE YOUR AT IT I SUGGEST CLEANING THE ENGINE..

THEN PUT THE AIR FILTER BACK..





[SIZE="5"]NOW THE PASSENGER.. [/SIZE]
REMOVE 2 10MM BOLT AND CAREFULLY MOVE IT TO THE SIDE... SEE BELOW..
(BE CAREFUL AND DO NOT BEND THE HOSE ALSO AT THE BOTTOM OF THE WATER RESERVOIR YOU NEED TO UNPLUG THE THE WIRE FROM THE RESERVOIR) I SUGGEST LOOKING AT THE HOSE WHEN MOVING IT OUT OF THE WAY




NOW REMOVE THE SPARK PLUG COVER AGAIN SLIGHTLY PULL THE COVER


NOW HERES WHAT YOU WILL SEE..



IF YOU HAVE A COIL PULLER IT WILL BE EASY..
NOW WHEN YOU TAKE YOUR COIL OUT MAKE SURE IT DOES THE WAY I HAVE IT... (FYI ITS A VERY TIGHT FIT)


NOW TAKE THE PLUGS OUT..


I HAVE THE COILS IN ORDER. ALL TAKEN OUT.


NOW START PUTTING THE NEW SPARK PLUG IN..

LISTEN NOW BELOW PHOTO SHOWS WHERE I TOOK OUT THE COIL.. NOW WHEN PUTTING THE PLUGS IN YOU HAVE TO PUT IT THE SAME WAY


NOW PUT EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER...


Its seriously that easy.. the only hard part was the passenger side. The coil close the the wall is a PITA.. with a coil puller though it made it so much easier.

I dont know about you but to those who are sensitive will notice the difference. Engine runs smoother...

IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTION JUST PM ME...

Wow awesome right up you made it look so easy

[mikoz]

I did mine this weekend. 40k mikes on a 2010.

I used the division M puller, it really made the job easy. I definitely recommend spending the 30 bucks to get this tool, instead of a coat hanger or the other hacks.

I was really nervous about the number 4 cylinder based on what I read, but it wasn’t difficult. Part of the reason why could be that the valve cover gaskets were replaced at 35k (done under extended warranty which recently expired) miles, so the coils were pulled fairly recently. But if I had to, I could see how you could get some leverage with the metal cross member to aid in pulling it out.

Unlike most cars, it’s easier to start with the drivers side, the first two plugs have very easy access so you can get the technique down.

I did break off the plastic post holding the grommet when removing the black plastic spark plug cover on the drivers side. However, I fixed that with epoxy and used grease on the grommet to make it easier to get on and off again later. I was very careful removing it, it just wouldn’t come off easily and I wound up breaking off the tab. The tab stayed attached to the metal post so I could easily get it and reattach it via epoxy. It may break the next time, I’ll replace it if so. It it’s cosmetic so not really worried about it.

I used dielectric grease on the boot to aid in a future release of the coils.

The dealer apparently used the wrong screws for the assembly of the plastic cover during the valve cover replacement for the cabin air filters, so that was fun trying to fix that.