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      05-04-2016, 12:46 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Groundpilot
Bumping this old thread
What do you guys think about this kit?
Will it work for Voltphreaks VPH 900 battery?

http://www.rennline.com/Lightweight-...nfo/EL36V3.37/
http://www.rennline.com/Rennline-Bat...tinfo/EL30.37/
Says it will work with vpr-p6 so not sure on dimensions.

Btw, still rocking this battery and has not let me down at all! Runs strong as always.
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      05-04-2016, 01:12 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by italyix View Post
Says it will work with vpr-p6 so not sure on dimensions.

Btw, still rocking this battery and has not let me down at all! Runs strong as always.
That's nice to hear. I just got my Volthphreaks 900 but would like to find some kind of universal mounting kit instead of fabricating it myself
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      05-04-2016, 01:55 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Groundpilot
Quote:
Originally Posted by italyix View Post
Says it will work with vpr-p6 so not sure on dimensions.

Btw, still rocking this battery and has not let me down at all! Runs strong as always.
That's nice to hear. I just got my Volthphreaks 900 but would like to find some kind of universal mounting kit instead of fabricating it myself
The battery is so light that a light strap system should suffice, diy
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      05-05-2016, 01:45 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Groundpilot View Post
That's nice to hear. I just got my Volthphreaks 900 but would like to find some kind of universal mounting kit instead of fabricating it myself
I wish you luck. I asked Rennline about their brackets long ago, but they said they wouldn't work. I don't have any experience with the Braile thing that uses J-hooks, but off hand, I'm not sure there are any places in the battery cavity for the hooks to hook onto. But it would be great if it were that easy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by italyix View Post
The battery is so light that a light strap system should suffice, diy
Other than a J-hook system, I am not sure there is a second anchor point for a strap. To my knowledge, there is only one threaded hole in the bottom of the battery cavity for that little wedge-shaped bracket that fits over a lip on the OEM battery and holds it down. I imagine you'd need a second anchor point to attach a strap.

I have a design that I've drawn up that would be very simple and lightweight, but it would need a second threaded anchor point.
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      05-05-2016, 03:15 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlp View Post
Here is my installation of the VPH900. I fashioned a baseplate the fit into the OEM battery guides and bolts to the floor as well. The base is about 3mm thick and the and screws are countersunk flush underneath. I added heat shrink tubing to the top of the battery strap for extra protection. The battery is totally secure and is going nowhere. Unlike Velcro and string this will pass any tech inspection at the track
I think this bracket (pics are in post #30 in this thread)looks pretty good and its not that difficult to diy i think.
I just need to find some time to do this
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      06-03-2016, 05:10 PM   #50
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Installed mine today, because streetcar! We'll see how it goes.
I am not impressed with how I solved the rollover sensor/cutoff thingie mounting. Anybody have a detail of how they made that work so that it's relatively secure/not dangling from its own weight??
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      06-04-2016, 11:46 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richbot View Post
Installed mine today, because streetcar! We'll see how it goes.
I am not impressed with how I solved the rollover sensor/cutoff thingie mounting. Anybody have a detail of how they made that work so that it's relatively secure/not dangling from its own weight??
Are you talking about the red plastic fuse box that sits on top of the battery?
One side is attached to the positive terminal, on the opposite side i attached self adhesive sponge rubber foam under the red box. Now its reletively secure and its not dangling from its own weight
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      06-05-2016, 07:35 AM   #52
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Yep that's the one. I've got some foam on the way as well mostly to act as a secondary restraint so the battery doesn't flop about should my strap and bracket system fale. Guess I'll cut a bit of that and stick it under there when it arrives.

Fwiw, my battery tray floor had 5 M6 threaded holes spaced about 2.5cm apart presumably to accept a variety of battery groups in a pinch, likely a standard 3er part wonder if the 316/318 uses a much smaller battery?

I did a baseplate secured under the front lip/bracket that captures the OEM battery and bolted through the baseplate to the second from the rearmost factory M6 hole, and used 5/32" aluminum flat stock to make L brackets and a strap over top of the battery bolted to the plate and black rubber strips protect the battery from abrasion from the hard stuff and act as a friction-fit to take the compression of the brackets instead of cranking down on the battery case. Whole thing weighs less than 9lb.

I haven't had a chance to drive the car yet it's a prisoner to my roof being replaced right now. But I have left the car off the charger for the past 2 days without starting it and it still wakes up as normal. My car happened to be toward the end of life of its second battery in its 8 years of life.

EDIT: Update: Starting issues I was having with my 3.5-year-old 90aH OEbattery which was always left on a battery tender if it sat for more than a few days and still crapped out prematurely (IMO) are gone. Oh BMW batteries, you so crazy.

Registered the VPH900 as a 40ah.
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      08-03-2016, 09:07 AM   #53
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So, 2 months and more than 2000 miles later my battery problems with my 2nd OEM battery appear to definitely have been the battery's fault. Either that or the Voltphreaks battery is so good that it has covered up whatever extra draw I may have had. Have let the car sit as long as 6 days and noticed no difference in starting behavior

So yeah. I'm fairly well convinced that this thing will work out great for a pure street car. I'm still going to put it on a tender when it's parked for weeks but I'm not scared of using it at all. Maybe now that I'm confident it's going to work and keep working and I have taken my jump pack out of the car murphy's law will kick in but I doubt it
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      10-20-2016, 04:23 PM   #54
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Still good. Starting to get down into the 40's in the mornings and it doesn't seem to care. Once the salt trucks come out my car gets parked until it rains good and hard, so we'll see what the winter brings.
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      10-20-2016, 10:19 PM   #55
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Richbot, do you know your battery voltage when the car is running and when the engine is off?
Mine is working ok, but I only drive my car once or twice a week.
The only problem I have, I have to reset time and the date every time I start the car.
Also comfort access key cant unlock the car. Starts the car well, no hesitation.
I have the gage that shows battery charge. When car is running, its between 14.1 and 14.2. When I drive the car I usually drive on the highway for more than 45 minutes non stop. Battery charge is always at 14.1 or 14.2.
With engine off voltage is 13.5, sometimes less.
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      10-21-2016, 11:35 AM   #56
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That's about where mine runs, for some reason my car has always run right around 14.0 on the dash hidden menus when running, sometimes high 13's, regardless of which battery is in the car. I have not checked with a voltmeter with it sitting engine off since I installed it

Those are the classic "car is trying to protect itself from an undervoltage" dying battery situation. I wonder if you don't have a module or door lock actuator not going to sleep properly or something, because my car can sit for a week and doesn't show any of the symptoms it used to have even with a new battery like loss of time on the clock etc.

My car does not have comfort access, iDrive or EDC so it's a pretty heavy sleeper if you will compared to the higher-spec cars. Wouldn't be surprised of a car with more options has more trouble with parasitic draw running a lightweight battery just because there are more computers talking to eachother
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      10-21-2016, 11:39 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richbot View Post
That's about where mine runs, for some reason my car has always run right around 14.0 on the dash hidden menus when running, sometimes high 13's, regardless of which battery is in the car. I have not checked with a voltmeter with it sitting engine off since I installed it

Those are the classic "car is trying to protect itself from an undervoltage" dying battery situation. I wonder if you don't have a module or door lock actuator not going to sleep properly or something, because my car can sit for a week and doesn't show any of the symptoms it used to have even with a new battery like loss of time on the clock etc.
I was told it should be 14.4. My old stock battery was at 14.3-14.4 at all times while running.
Do you have to reset date and time every time you start ?
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      10-21-2016, 11:40 AM   #58
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Nope, never.

EDIT: but keep in mind the voltphreaks battery's only 1.5 years or so old and only been in service for about 5 months on my car
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      10-22-2016, 11:33 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richbot View Post
That's about where mine runs, for some reason my car has always run right around 14.0 on the dash hidden menus when running, sometimes high 13's, regardless of which battery is in the car. I have not checked with a voltmeter with it sitting engine off since I installed it

Those are the classic "car is trying to protect itself from an undervoltage" dying battery situation. I wonder if you don't have a module or door lock actuator not going to sleep properly or something, because my car can sit for a week and doesn't show any of the symptoms it used to have even with a new battery like loss of time on the clock etc.

My car does not have comfort access, iDrive or EDC so it's a pretty heavy sleeper if you will compared to the higher-spec cars. Wouldn't be surprised of a car with just because there are more computers talking to eachother
I have all those options you mentioned. Maybe more options has more trouble with parasitic draw running a lightweight battery like you said.
Never had to reset the date and time with 4 year old stock battery though.
Hope other owners tell us about their VPH-900 battery behavior.
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      06-05-2017, 01:37 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richbot View Post
Yep that's the one. I've got some foam on the way as well mostly to act as a secondary restraint so the battery doesn't flop about should my strap and bracket system fale. Guess I'll cut a bit of that and stick it under there when it arrives.

Fwiw, my battery tray floor had 5 M6 threaded holes spaced about 2.5cm apart presumably to accept a variety of battery groups in a pinch, likely a standard 3er part wonder if the 316/318 uses a much smaller battery?

I did a baseplate secured under the front lip/bracket that captures the OEM battery and bolted through the baseplate to the second from the rearmost factory M6 hole, and used 5/32" aluminum flat stock to make L brackets and a strap over top of the battery bolted to the plate and black rubber strips protect the battery from abrasion from the hard stuff and act as a friction-fit to take the compression of the brackets instead of cranking down on the battery case. Whole thing weighs less than 9lb.

I haven't had a chance to drive the car yet it's a prisoner to my roof being replaced right now. But I have left the car off the charger for the past 2 days without starting it and it still wakes up as normal. My car happened to be toward the end of life of its second battery in its 8 years of life.

EDIT: Update: Starting issues I was having with my 3.5-year-old 90aH OEbattery which was always left on a battery tender if it sat for more than a few days and still crapped out prematurely (IMO) are gone. Oh BMW batteries, you so crazy.

Registered the VPH900 as a 40ah.
Battery 1st anniversary update: No issues.
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      02-04-2018, 02:06 AM   #61
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5 years since I wrote this post and 0 issues with voltphreaks battery.
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      02-04-2018, 06:44 AM   #62
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Much less battery power is needed in warm temperatures like in Barcelona. I would consider a lighter battery but we have had temperature as low as -15F with 15 mph wind making it like -30F in my area.
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      02-04-2018, 07:01 PM   #63
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5 years since I wrote this post and 0 issues with voltphreaks battery.
It was cause of your thread I bought one. Zero issues thus far also!
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      02-05-2018, 09:16 AM   #64
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I've been driving the car in this frigid cold winter we have been getting lately. I have not attempted to start it in temps lower than about 15F because the car stays home if it's colder than that to protect my summer tires. No issues for me either. It takes an extra 2 cranks to get going below 30F.
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      02-05-2018, 09:28 AM   #65
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15F is pretty good. And I assume no battery tender. Can it take below freezing temps for days and even sit for a few days and still start at 15F?
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      02-19-2018, 03:45 PM   #66
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No idea, the car is garaged at home and the garage ambient never gets below 45f.

It gets a tender if it's not driven for more than a week (it doesn't go out in the salt, just wait for the next rain and back out again, yay midwest weather)
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