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04-26-2020, 09:38 PM | #23 | |
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The subframe upgrade and suspension are what improve the wheel hop. Not sure how the diff mounts would improve that. If anything that protect the diff from moving when the subframe is more rigged.
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04-27-2020, 06:47 PM | #24 | ||
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04-27-2020, 07:13 PM | #25 |
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For your purposes try keeping the solid diff mounts. If you can’t take the whine try 95A. I would go softer to purple 80A only if the 95A are too much for you.
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04-27-2020, 07:25 PM | #26 |
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I went with Turner Aluminums sub frame mounts paired with the purple flex differential mounts: The whine is minimal; imo: I also run 295 tires and No wheel hop and no issues. It may be possible that when you left your sub frame OEM setup and only upgrade your diff mounts that you caused more stress on differential even though you got rid of the wheel hop.
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04-27-2020, 07:37 PM | #27 |
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Tbh I don't mind the diff. whine. I just figured going with purple mounts are less harsh than the solid mounts
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04-27-2020, 08:00 PM | #28 | |
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04-27-2020, 08:26 PM | #29 |
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I don’t think the solid mounts have anything to do with your diff problem. Plenty of people run solid on street cars and race cars with no issues. I think you problem was too much hop. Unless maybe it’s the fluid like someone else suggested. If you run fluid without friction modifier your diff will make sounds that will worry you. You have not written anything about fluid changes so I assume that is not the issue.
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04-27-2020, 09:23 PM | #30 | |
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04-27-2020, 09:29 PM | #31 |
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When do you plan on installing the new diff?
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04-27-2020, 10:17 PM | #33 | |
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Here's a snippet from AKG Motorsports regarding subframe. Also, I believe MRF has said the same. Maybe call a race shop and ask their opinion.
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04-27-2020, 10:58 PM | #34 |
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boussi33
This is a great thread to read! Makek would be a great resource to call. https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=926758
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04-27-2020, 11:09 PM | #35 |
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I appreciate all the help I received in this thread. I'm gonna go ahead and install the MRF subframe mounts, get the old differential opened up and report back to you guys!
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04-27-2020, 11:11 PM | #36 | |
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04-29-2020, 10:19 PM | #37 | |
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I had a similar sound replaced the rear cvjoint with redline cv2 grease. Also switched to the shell version of the diff fluid. Most if the sound is gone.
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04-29-2020, 10:56 PM | #38 | ||
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05-03-2020, 10:27 PM | #39 |
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Somewhat of a clunk, my cv joint was sticking and I could see uneven wear on the bearings when I took apart the cv joint.
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05-05-2020, 10:59 PM | #40 |
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I'm probably gonna drop a carbon fiber driveshaft and get rid of the shitty 2 piece shaft
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05-10-2020, 10:16 AM | #41 |
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Really interested if you find a solution here. I have had a similar clunk since I bought my car a year ago. It already had solid diff and subframe mounts when I bought it. Here is the list of just about everything I could think to replace while trying to get this quieted down the back end:
New/rebuilt driveshaft CSB Guibo New diff (was junk) Another new diff Rear shock upper mounts Trans mounts Not sure where to go next on this. Maybe I got a third diff with the exact same issue but that seems unlikely. |
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05-10-2020, 12:24 PM | #42 | |
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05-19-2020, 08:52 AM | #44 |
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I'm also interested in in the out come. I noticed the same Aluminum bat noise when the drive train is loaded and unloaded during normal driving. I can also replicate the noise in the drive way at idle by holding the brakes and just slightly letting the clutch out in 1st then Reverse.
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