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      07-15-2019, 01:55 PM   #1
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f80 wheel hub on e90/e92

Anyone have fit f80 wheel hub assembly on our car ? This will allow us to use 14mm thread wheel bolt or stud.
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      07-15-2019, 06:40 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickauger View Post
Anyone have fit f80 wheel hub assembly on our car ? This will allow us to use 14mm thread wheel bolt or stud.
I believe Dogbone and maybe a couple others have done this swap? It’s useful if you’re doing a lot of on-track driving from all the discussions I have read. I believe IND and a couple others sell the retrofit. It’s on my to-do list at some point but it’s not super high priority personally.
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      07-16-2019, 11:43 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickauger View Post
Anyone have fit f80 wheel hub assembly on our car ? This will allow us to use 14mm thread wheel bolt or stud.
Future Classic makes a complete retrofit kit, yes—it's been on their E90 M3 for several months now You can find more information here.

Not only do you get to use more robust M14 hardware, but by moving to the F8X hubs, you'll save 0.74lbs per corner up front and 0.54lbs per corner out back.

FC has also taken the opportunity to upgrade hardware for strength and options the drill bit necessary to modify your rotor hats, should you aim to use OE brakes or non-Brembo aftermarket applications. Brembo (I'm sure some others as well) have provisions large enough to make no modifications to the rotor hat during the retrofit.

Honestly FC's kit is virtually the same price as if you would simply replace your bearings / hubs with factory E9X equipment...it's something to consider if you're close to your replacement interval IMO, which I think a lot of E9X owners are coming towards anyway.
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      07-16-2019, 02:07 PM   #4
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FWIW, I have a relatively "new" hub on the right front and a 119,000 mile OEM hub on my left front. I did hubs up front when I did my Stoptech kit 60,000-ish miles ago, then chasing a vibration (which turned out to be tires, I'm an idiot) changed one to see if I got a bad new hub. It wasn't the hub, obviously.

The 119,000 mile hub and ~60,000 mile old hub feel the same to the hand and spin down the same, and they always have except when they were brand spankin-in new the then-new right front had a little more stiction

So, for most people, I think the E9xM hub is going to be a lifetime part or near to it. But this is still a cool upgrade because the F8x parts are such trick, machined becuz-racecar parts. I mean, just look at that rear hub! It wants to go fast:

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      07-21-2019, 03:05 PM   #5
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That's hot.
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      07-23-2019, 09:16 AM   #6
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From what it seems like, the fronts certainly take the beating with more regularity than the rears—mine were toast at 48K miles which I thought was fair given the track time to account for on those. For others, I've seen replacement occur once every other year or every year (for fronts).

I know slicer or dogbone might be able to shed more light on their normal hub lifecycles.
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      07-24-2019, 09:39 AM   #7
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Since the E9xM front hub can bolt up to a f8x spindle (as shown in the f8x brake conversion which is bolt on with the f8x spindle), I would assume the same for the f8x hub on an e9x spindle. So not sure what the FC kit includes other than a drill bit.
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      07-24-2019, 04:52 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdott View Post
Since the E9xM front hub can bolt up to a f8x spindle (as shown in the f8x brake conversion which is bolt on with the f8x spindle), I would assume the same for the f8x hub on an e9x spindle. So not sure what the FC kit includes other than a drill bit.
The front is a complete F8X assembly which is a hub/spindle combination. Each kit includes upgraded hardware that is stronger than the factory BMW units. The rears are not just the hub spindle, but also include the bearing. In addition to this, new hub bolt hardware is included. As an extra touch (to safeguard against the common E9X rusty hub issue) each kit is uniformly moly-coated and the appropriate Loctite is included.

The drill bit is optional—we didn't want to penalize anyone who had Brembo brakes to have to pay for a bit they didn't need, but we have the appropriately sized bit for non-Brembo and OE brake applications for no guesswork.

We took time to compile a complete kit for people who were interested in both mod and maintenance all at the same time. No guesswork and no enormous markup...just factoring in the time it takes to apply durable coating and assembling the kit for the BMW community. We also made note that there was a P/N changeover during the F8X lifecycle for front hubs, so all the hubs we use for our kits are the LCI variant.

You're able to also option the base kit with either a stud conversion of your choice or OE length M14x1.25 lug bolts—just another nod to trying to create as complete of a solution as possible for a wide variety of users.
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      07-24-2019, 06:41 PM   #9
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Are you using camber correction spindles or standard
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      10-30-2019, 09:27 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeM5 View Post
The front is a complete F8X assembly which is a hub/spindle combination. Each kit includes upgraded hardware that is stronger than the factory BMW units. The rears are not just the hub spindle, but also include the bearing. In addition to this, new hub bolt hardware is included. As an extra touch (to safeguard against the common E9X rusty hub issue) each kit is uniformly moly-coated and the appropriate Loctite is included.

The drill bit is optional—we didn't want to penalize anyone who had Brembo brakes to have to pay for a bit they didn't need, but we have the appropriately sized bit for non-Brembo and OE brake applications for no guesswork.

We took time to compile a complete kit for people who were interested in both mod and maintenance all at the same time. No guesswork and no enormous markup...just factoring in the time it takes to apply durable coating and assembling the kit for the BMW community. We also made note that there was a P/N changeover during the F8X lifecycle for front hubs, so all the hubs we use for our kits are the LCI variant.

You're able to also option the base kit with either a stud conversion of your choice or OE length M14x1.25 lug bolts—just another nod to trying to create as complete of a solution as possible for a wide variety of users.
A couple of questions for you as I'm planning to do SOME kind of M14 conversion for my track car as I've had too many M12 stud problems. Was planning to drill out the OE E9x hubs using a jig but this option is appealing!

Are these OE F8X hubs that simply bolt up to the E9x spindles as-is without any *required* modification? i.e. you guys are packaging the set of OE two front hubs and two rear hubs/bearings with fresh bolts but also adding your own coating to otherwise unmodified parts? Since this is for a track/race car that needs hubs/bearings replaced more often, I want to be sure I'll be future-proof for replacement parts (and having the option of just buying OEM hubs without worrying about the possibility of FC no longer offering the product would be necessary).

EDIT: also forgot to ask: do these hubs change the effective wheel offset at all at either axle? My fitment with race tires and coilovers is tight so pushing the wheel out (or in) a couple of mm would be either amazing (or terrible).

EDIT 2: also regarding offset, I realize that would obviously affect where the rotor is as well if there's any change and thus require different caliper brackets.... (in my case I'm currently running StopTechs)

Thanks!
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      07-25-2020, 09:45 PM   #11
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Bump. Also interested in the answers to the questions above.

Also does anyone have details on the camber correction spindles? Is this referring to static or dynamic camber? And are they only on the F8x M's or also on non-M?
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      07-28-2020, 02:00 PM   #12
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I have the FC conversion on my E90 track car paired with M14 Bimmerworld race studs.

Great upgrade. I've coveted the F8X hubs since I first saw them, what beautiful works of art!
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      03-02-2021, 11:40 PM   #13
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Has anyone done this without going with the FC kit? If it's a bolt-on affair, not sure I want to spend $900 for FC to moly coat some F8x hub assembly for me.
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      03-03-2021, 09:51 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Infini IV View Post
Has anyone done this without going with the FC kit? If it's a bolt-on affair, not sure I want to spend $900 for FC to moly coat some F8x hub assembly for me.
Either buy new hubs from *** or if you also want piece of mind from press in studs get them through core4 for about the same price as FC, but with press in studs and lugnuts included
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      06-01-2021, 08:25 PM   #15
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Thanks for the info here. I decided to just buy the F80 hubs from FCPEuro - they are currently on sale for $284 each. Add 8 new bolts and its about $600 total. Plus their lifetime guarantee will be useful if/when I wear out another one.
Last weekend's track days seem to have smoked one hub as it was making enough noise to get me black-flagged. It spins fine and noise free normally but made a grinding noise at about .75 Gs.
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      06-04-2021, 06:01 PM   #16
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For a quick update, I received the F80 hubs. The 8 bolts I ordered are only for F80 spindles and the original bolts are wrong thread. The original are M12x1.50x60mm and these hubs require extra fine M12x1.25 bolts. Therefore I bought top quality 10.9 hardness bolts at my local HW store which specializes in bolts.
In short, for two F80 hubs on E92 spindles you need 8x M12x1.25x60mm bolts, with 10.9 hardness highly suggested. Perhaps BMW sources such a bolt, but I don't have the part number nor even the application.
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      12-07-2021, 04:05 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magus4286 View Post
A couple of questions for you as I'm planning to do SOME kind of M14 conversion for my track car as I've had too many M12 stud problems. Was planning to drill out the OE E9x hubs using a jig but this option is appealing!

Are these OE F8X hubs that simply bolt up to the E9x spindles as-is without any *required* modification? i.e. you guys are packaging the set of OE two front hubs and two rear hubs/bearings with fresh bolts but also adding your own coating to otherwise unmodified parts? Since this is for a track/race car that needs hubs/bearings replaced more often, I want to be sure I'll be future-proof for replacement parts (and having the option of just buying OEM hubs without worrying about the possibility of FC no longer offering the product would be necessary).

EDIT: also forgot to ask: do these hubs change the effective wheel offset at all at either axle? My fitment with race tires and coilovers is tight so pushing the wheel out (or in) a couple of mm would be either amazing (or terrible).

EDIT 2: also regarding offset, I realize that would obviously affect where the rotor is as well if there's any change and thus require different caliper brackets.... (in my case I'm currently running StopTechs)

Thanks!
Want to bump this thread as I have same question as above but it was never answered. If anyone could chime in that would be great. Thanks!
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      12-07-2021, 09:12 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Matt.BLU View Post
Want to bump this thread as I have same question as above but it was never answered. If anyone could chime in that would be great. Thanks!
Not exactly sure which part you didn't think got answered on this thread, so:
For the front, just the OEM hubs and the bolts I mentioned are needed. There was nothing to drill or modify. Neither the stock nor the Turner Motorsport rotors had to be drilled.

There is no change to the wheel offset that I noticed. For the track I have the Apex SM10 18"x10" ET25 wheels with 275/35-18 tires and they fit with no rubbing. I think that is about the max size you can put on these cars with stock suspension.

Certainly no change to the rotor offset and therefore no change to the caliper location. Brand new pads fit fine.
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      01-22-2022, 04:43 PM   #19
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My $.02, I would look into the Core4 Motorsports hubs. You'll get new hubs with press in 12mm studs, instead of the thread in studs you get with a stud conversion or with Future Classic. I think that the 12.9 grade hardware on the Core4 kit would be more than strong enough even though it's not 14mm.

Don't get me wrong, the FC kit is gorgeous, and the price they charge seems to be fair for what you get, but you sure are paying a premium to get those 14mm studs and to shave a couple pounds in total. If they were the same price I wouldn't even hesitate to get them from FC, but I think theres better value for money to be had elsewhere, and Core4 is my recommendation. Plus, you don't have to modify your rotor hats.
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      01-22-2022, 05:35 PM   #20
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Core4 with pressed in M14 studs.
Either 75mm or if you plan on spacers 93mm studs.

This problem has been solved a year ago.

Cost is similar to a MPSCup2 tire. But they last way longer.
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      01-22-2022, 06:04 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhyary View Post
Core4 with pressed in M14 studs.
Either 75mm or if you plan on spacers 93mm studs.

This problem has been solved a year ago.

Cost is similar to a MPSCup2 tire. But they last way longer.
You're right, I totally forgot that they started offering the 14mm studs, so now springing for the FC hubs is ~$800 more to shave off a couple pounds. Also I believe you can still run up to a 12mm spacer on the 75mm studs.
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      01-22-2022, 06:35 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scandinavian_Flick View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhyary View Post
Core4 with pressed in M14 studs.
Either 75mm or if you plan on spacers 93mm studs.

This problem has been solved a year ago.

Cost is similar to a MPSCup2 tire. But they last way longer.
You're right, I totally forgot that they started offering the 14mm studs, so now springing for the FC hubs is ~$800 more to shave off a couple pounds. Also I believe you can still run up to a 12mm spacer on the 75mm studs.
Core4 is offering F80 hubs with pressed in M14 studs. FC offers F80 hubs with threaded M14 studs.

I don't believe you can use 75mm studs with 12mm spacers. At least I couldn't safely do so. So I changed from 75mm to 93mm.

I did not look up the price differences but if you do this conversion you are a track rat and you already know how much 200tw or slicks cost and how long they last. In addition, if you constantly put wheels on and off and torque the studs before and after track day then you might as well do that on M14 studs.
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