|
|
07-05-2017, 08:52 PM | #3 |
Major
448
Rep 1,263
Posts |
Look up removing the plenum, then the injectors are right there and will be straight forward to replace. Removing the plenum is the hardest part.
Here is a general overview (poor attempt at one) and pointers. Remove the plenum first. Once the plenum is off, there are two T-25(?) screws holding each rail. Once removed, the rail with 4 injectors slide out of the injector ports together. Be careful not to get any caked on dirt into the injector ports while the injectors are removed. That's basically getting dirt directly into the combustion chamber. No bueno. With the rail in hand, examine how the clip on the electrical connector locks the injector in place. The injector can be pulled from the rail. Know that once you disconnect the injector from the rail, fuel will spill out. Have a towel on top of the engine. Fuel eats through the clear coat of your paint, be careful not to get any on the fender or bumper. Important: there is a oring on the port side and fuel rail side. Make sure once removed, the oring came out with it, if not, use a small flathead to carefully pry it out. Reason being your new injector will have new orings on it, it won't seat properly into the port or rails if the old oring is still inside. |
Appreciate
0
|
02-24-2019, 04:33 PM | #4 |
Major General
2760
Rep 5,483
Posts |
I just did these out of an excess of paranoia at 114,000 miles while I wait for the Karbonius manifold to come and the salt to go
T30 or T33 for the fuel rail bolts, I used a T30 but it seemed a bit undersized You'll want some lube, Deatschwerks sent PTFE lube, for the seals. This is to keep from twisting them when isntalling, they should slide in easily. Fuel's a lousy lubricant for rubber and if you're jamming it in, you probably need to re-lube or risk a leak from the seal twisting when you install I'd recommend safety glasses for this job. Some fuel inevitably gets flung around if one is stubborn coming out of the rail, and fuel in your eye is no fun Flip the rail over on its back so that the ports are facing up, that way less fuel leaks out during changes I would do passenger side first, then driver's side, and after swapping passenger injectors, cover them in plastic so any jangling on them doesn't foul the tips. You have more degrees of freedom moving things around with the passenger side. You do'nt have to disconnect any fuel lines, there are several flex fittings in the hose/rail asssembly that can rotate easily, nice design really. I used q-tips to clean out the ports, keeping gunk out of them completely was impossible after 114k of accumulated crud so I cleaned as best I could to make sure nothing got between the oring and the port wall. Then I vacuumed each one Also, you can remove the oil separators for better access, but don't have to. And make sure the injector harness clip wires are in the correct spot before clipping them on, they can go flying if they get out of the groove and while they're magnetic, they're impossible to see... trying to think what else, it's pretty straightforward and easy.
__________________
Last edited by Richbot; 02-24-2019 at 06:57 PM.. |
Appreciate
5
|
06-05-2019, 03:56 PM | #5 |
Colonel
2621
Rep 2,138
Posts
Drives: 2011 E92 M3
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Victoria
|
I am chasing a bit of an annoying pre-detonation issue while using a tune. I am running Dinan now (car came with a Dinan tune). I have the Dinan bored throttle bodies (previous owner installed these). When I run my Alpine tune (91 or 93 octane stage I files) with 91 octane fuel, I run into bad low RPM pre-det and some higher RPM pre-det. This happens even when it is chilly out. If I run 94 octane fuel, the pre-det is significantly reduced while running the Alpine tune.
The Dinan tune (re-installed it a few weeks ago) has been pretty free from pre-det. One time it did briefly while accelerating hard at low RPM. High RPM has been fine. I have been running 94 octane and the next fuel-up I will try it on 91 octane. I am not sure if the Dinan throttle-bodies need to be considered while tuning and I also do not know for sure if the Dinan code takes them into account. I do not suffer from pre-det when using the stock 241E programming. I have never had a code thrown by the ECU regarding knock or fueling issues. Richbot: did you replace your injectors or have them serviced? Given I can walk to work and I have a spare car, I am considering pulling the injectors and having them tested just to remove that variable from the equation. Newinfo.tis implies that it is easy to take the rails out as a complete unit. Is this the case? Any other avenues that I should explore? Cheers, Cheers,
__________________
2011 E92 M3 - 6MT, ZCP, ZF LSD, ESS G1, Some other goodies... Last edited by Scharbag; 06-05-2019 at 04:20 PM.. |
Appreciate
0
|
06-06-2019, 06:49 PM | #6 | |
Lieutenant
275
Rep 465
Posts |
Quote:
I used this guy: http://www.mrinjector.us/ Very quick turnaround and delivered as promised. All injectors were cleaned and flow-tested. My injectors weren't all that bad (for a car with over 110K+ miles at the time). I'll see if I can dig up the stats to share. As for removal, never found an E9X specific DIY procedure, but there's one on Pelican Parts for a generic E90 that is close enough. Short form on the procedure: 1) Remove airbox and plenum (same as what you would do if you were going to change spark plugs, etc) 2) To minimize fuel flow from the injectors, I pulled the fuel pump fuse (sorry, forgot which number) and opened up the gas cap. Parked the car overnight as well. 3) Injector clips are fairly easy to pull off. Just pry the paperclip like retainer (be careful not to lose it of course). 4) Loosen a couple screws and then, just pull straight up on the fuel rail to remove the injectors and rail assembly 5) Each injector is then pulled off by hand off the rail. Some injectors might be tight, but if you give it a gentle twist and pull (make sure it's 90 to the rail), they will all pop off easily 6) Assembly is just in reverse. I lightly lubricated each seal with a small drop of 10W60 and they popped back in with no problem |
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-06-2019, 07:01 PM | #7 | |
Lieutenant
275
Rep 465
Posts |
By the way, this is what injectors look like after 100K miles.
Although, I have to admit I didnt' notice much difference after they came back clean. For me, it turned out some of the random misfires I was getting was from a worn out (or supposed missing) "donut" gasket on the front of the cat pipe that connects to the manifold: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/11627830668/ Are you getting any fuel smell/exhaust smell from the front of the car. I was getting that smell from the back of the engine bay, which is approx where the manifold sits to the cat pipe. Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-06-2019, 08:55 PM | #8 | ||
Colonel
2621
Rep 2,138
Posts
Drives: 2011 E92 M3
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Victoria
|
Quote:
I replaced the donut gaskets on the headers so they should be fine. I will keep tying to solve this. Cheers,
__________________
2011 E92 M3 - 6MT, ZCP, ZF LSD, ESS G1, Some other goodies... |
||
Appreciate
0
|
01-21-2021, 04:15 PM | #9 | |
Private
3
Rep 94
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
01-29-2021, 08:44 AM | #10 |
Major General
2760
Rep 5,483
Posts |
I think you're probably fine. I was always careful not to put any hard bends where the transitions were and that's never happened to me before though. I've done plugs half a dozen times on this car and never smelled fuel - the connector that I'm always manhandlign is the one up against the strut tower to firewall transition where the fuel line comes up from under the car, for me I always have to unclip it and pull it out of the way to get #3 coil out, which means giving it a good yank, but, so far so good
__________________
|
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
|
|