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      09-19-2015, 08:50 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Oc View Post
Cool, thanks.
Did you get around to replacing your tensioners?
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      09-19-2015, 11:02 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by rcracin View Post
Did you get around to replacing your tensioners?
Sorry, forgot to update. I replaced the driver's side but it did not help. Ive tried half a dozen times to get the passenger side out but have given up and will have to take it to the shop to get that one done. They require a lot of force to get loose and while I can get a socket on it with a wobbler I can't generate enough force to break it loose. The angle is almost 90 degrees and it just won't go. Yesterday I had my wife start the car while I had my hand on the tensioner and I could feel the noise pretty strongly so I'm confident it will fix the problem once replaced.
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      09-19-2015, 11:45 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Oc View Post
Sorry, forgot to update. I replaced the driver's side but it did not help. Ive tried half a dozen times to get the passenger side out but have given up and will have to take it to the shop to get that one done. They require a lot of force to get loose and while I can get a socket on it with a wobbler I can't generate enough force to break it loose. The angle is almost 90 degrees and it just won't go. Yesterday I had my wife start the car while I had my hand on the tensioner and I could feel the noise pretty strongly so I'm confident it will fix the problem once replaced.
Keep us posted on if this fixes the noise at start up.
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      09-20-2015, 05:09 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Oc
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcracin View Post
Did you get around to replacing your tensioners?
Sorry, forgot to update. I replaced the driver's side but it did not help. Ive tried half a dozen times to get the passenger side out but have given up and will have to take it to the shop to get that one done. They require a lot of force to get loose and while I can get a socket on it with a wobbler I can't generate enough force to break it loose. The angle is almost 90 degrees and it just won't go. Yesterday I had my wife start the car while I had my hand on the tensioner and I could feel the noise pretty strongly so I'm confident it will fix the problem once replaced.
If you removed the passenger side wheel, fender liner and if necessary the reinforcement plate, you should be able to access the tensioner.
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      09-20-2015, 11:27 PM   #27
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If you removed the passenger side wheel, fender liner and if necessary the reinforcement plate, you should be able to access the tensioner.
Awesome, I'll try that tomorrow! Thanks
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      02-26-2017, 03:28 PM   #28
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Here's the best way to do it. After some research I finally did it. Move the coolant reservoir out of the way and access from the top.
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      03-01-2017, 02:06 PM   #29
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I removed by driver's side tensioner last week to inspect it, chasing a noise I have in the driver side bank right there at the timing chain. I got it out, no problem, but when putting it back, it took A LOT of pressure to get it started. I got it on the first thread and it felt REALLY tight, as if it was cross-threading. I turned it about 1mm, got nervous and removed it. Had it towed to my indy and had them put it in.

I don't know what your experience was with it, but the whole stainless part into an aluminum head was very scary. I'd like to know how it felt when you put it in. Was it super tight feeling on that first thread? I can't imagine doing the passenger side. The lack of view would scare me.

I applaud your ability to do it yourself - did it ultimately fix your issue? Mine still sounds exactly the same.

Did/does yours sound like this:



Thanks!
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      03-01-2017, 04:37 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gfisher99 View Post
I removed by driver's side tensioner last week to inspect it, chasing a noise I have in the driver side bank right there at the timing chain. I got it out, no problem, but when putting it back, it took A LOT of pressure to get it started. I got it on the first thread and it felt REALLY tight, as if it was cross-threading. I turned it about 1mm, got nervous and removed it. Had it towed to my indy and had them put it in.

I don't know what your experience was with it, but the whole stainless part into an aluminum head was very scary. I'd like to know how it felt when you put it in. Was it super tight feeling on that first thread? I can't imagine doing the passenger side. The lack of view would scare me.

I applaud your ability to do it yourself - did it ultimately fix your issue? Mine still sounds exactly the same.

Did/does yours sound like this:



Thanks!
Mine did not sound like that. Only one strong noise 1-2 seconds after cranking the engine.
Almost like the tensioner kicks in 100% force and then all is quiet. Now if the tensioner never kicks is then it may very well sound like that. When I was playing with the part it looks like it is spring loaded from the inside plus hydraulic activation.
I only replaced the passenger side and I think it fixed my problem there but I still have the one noise left that I think it's from the driver side tensioner now. When I put the new one in it went in by hand very easily about 3/4 of the way then I used the wrench.
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      03-05-2017, 01:20 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmtemauricio View Post
Mine did not sound like that. Only one strong noise 1-2 seconds after cranking the engine.
Almost like the tensioner kicks in 100% force and then all is quiet. Now if the tensioner never kicks is then it may very well sound like that. When I was playing with the part it looks like it is spring loaded from the inside plus hydraulic activation.
I only replaced the passenger side and I think it fixed my problem there but I still have the one noise left that I think it's from the driver side tensioner now. When I put the new one in it went in by hand very easily about 3/4 of the way then I used the wrench.
Man, I don't get that. There was no way mine was going back in by hand, even to just catch the first thread. I tried pushing the guide with my finger a bit to see how tight it was and it was super solid, couldn't really move it. It was pushed as far to the center of the engine as it could be. Now you've got me wondering again....

If you do the driver side please let me know how that one goes. It might be different, based on the engine pics?

Last edited by gfisher99; 03-05-2017 at 01:24 PM.. Reason: Realized you did passenger side.
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      03-05-2017, 04:21 PM   #32
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmtemauricio View Post
Mine did not sound like that. Only one strong noise 1-2 seconds after cranking the engine.
Almost like the tensioner kicks in 100% force and then all is quiet. Now if the tensioner never kicks is then it may very well sound like that. When I was playing with the part it looks like it is spring loaded from the inside plus hydraulic activation.
I only replaced the passenger side and I think it fixed my problem there but I still have the one noise left that I think it's from the driver side tensioner now. When I put the new one in it went in by hand very easily about 3/4 of the way then I used the wrench.
Man, I don't get that. There was no way mine was going back in by hand, even to just catch the first thread. I tried pushing the guide with my finger a bit to see how tight it was and it was super solid, couldn't really move it. It was pushed as far to the center of the engine as it could be. Now you've got me wondering again....

If you do the driver side please let me know how that one goes. It might be different, based on the engine pics?
I'm trying to get the driver side out but it seems a lot harder to break it loose.
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      03-05-2017, 05:34 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gfisher99 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmtemauricio View Post
Mine did not sound like that. Only one strong noise 1-2 seconds after cranking the engine.
Almost like the tensioner kicks in 100% force and then all is quiet. Now if the tensioner never kicks is then it may very well sound like that. When I was playing with the part it looks like it is spring loaded from the inside plus hydraulic activation.
I only replaced the passenger side and I think it fixed my problem there but I still have the one noise left that I think it's from the driver side tensioner now. When I put the new one in it went in by hand very easily about 3/4 of the way then I used the wrench.
Man, I don't get that. There was no way mine was going back in by hand, even to just catch the first thread. I tried pushing the guide with my finger a bit to see how tight it was and it was super solid, couldn't really move it. It was pushed as far to the center of the engine as it could be. Now you've got me wondering again....

If you do the driver side please let me know how that one goes. It might be different, based on the engine pics?
Just got it done. It came out by hand once I broke loose. Then the new one went on by hand half way and it got tight and I finished with the wrench but very easy.
I did it with the car completely cold so don't know if that makes things easier maybe.
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      03-05-2017, 05:38 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmtemauricio View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by gfisher99 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmtemauricio View Post
Mine did not sound like that. Only one strong noise 1-2 seconds after cranking the engine.
Almost like the tensioner kicks in 100% force and then all is quiet. Now if the tensioner never kicks is then it may very well sound like that. When I was playing with the part it looks like it is spring loaded from the inside plus hydraulic activation.
I only replaced the passenger side and I think it fixed my problem there but I still have the one noise left that I think it's from the driver side tensioner now. When I put the new one in it went in by hand very easily about 3/4 of the way then I used the wrench.
Man, I don't get that. There was no way mine was going back in by hand, even to just catch the first thread. I tried pushing the guide with my finger a bit to see how tight it was and it was super solid, couldn't really move it. It was pushed as far to the center of the engine as it could be. Now you've got me wondering again....

If you do the driver side please let me know how that one goes. It might be different, based on the engine pics?
Just got it done. It came out by hand once I broke loose. Then the new one went on by hand half way and it got tight and I finished with the wrench but very easy.
I did it with the car completely cold so don't know if that makes things easier maybe.
Here are some pics. The one on the right is the driver side. The driver side tensioner was shot, it was way easier to compress than the other one that came out of the passenger side.
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      03-07-2017, 04:06 PM   #35
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Quote:
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Here are some pics. The one on the right is the driver side. The driver side tensioner was shot, it was way easier to compress than the other one that came out of the passenger side.
That baffles me. No way in hell mine was going in by hand, at all. Makes me think the plastic guide inside the engine is not right, which is what is probably causing my noise. Might have to take in to BMW for diagnosis. Thanks for following up!
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      12-04-2018, 02:59 PM   #36
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I'm getting a noise after extended parking on startup, intermittently, and a noise after each oil change. It *sounds* like what a loose tensioner would sound like, and "only after an oil change" and "long park" makes me think either oil is draining back when it shouldn't, or a tensioner is no longer tensioning. Might buy and replace just for fun, at 114,000 miles, the car is going to sit for a while now that winter is here
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      07-15-2019, 03:58 AM   #37
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Ok Guys, what's the deal with the passenger side. I have spent two nights on it and given up both times. How on earth did anyone actually get that one changed? I cant see it. I can barely touch it with the tip of a finger. I had to use my phone to take a picture to even locate it because it cant be seen. I removed the cooling reservoir. With the AC lines so close I cant get a socket over it and even if I did, it is inside 90 degrees so any universal is pointless. I have a pile of sockets, extensions, swivels and nothing even comes close. I considered removing the tire and wheel well liner, but from what i see there is solid metal between the head of the tensioner and any direct path from below even with a workbench full of swivels and a lot of luck. How did anyone actually do this??
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      08-16-2019, 04:15 AM   #38
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Anyone done the the passenger side without removing AC Lines?
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      08-16-2019, 08:33 AM   #39
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Ok Guys, what's the deal with the passenger side. I have spent two nights on it and given up both times. How on earth did anyone actually get that one changed? I cant see it. I can barely touch it with the tip of a finger. I had to use my phone to take a picture to even locate it because it cant be seen. I removed the cooling reservoir. With the AC lines so close I cant get a socket over it and even if I did, it is inside 90 degrees so any universal is pointless. I have a pile of sockets, extensions, swivels and nothing even comes close. I considered removing the tire and wheel well liner, but from what i see there is solid metal between the head of the tensioner and any direct path from below even with a workbench full of swivels and a lot of luck. How did anyone actually do this??
I'm doing this next weekend, I plan on using a swiveling wrench or line wrench. Getting it out shouldn't be too bad, I'm just worried about getting the new one in. I mean, it can't be as bad as the starter mounting bolts.
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      08-18-2019, 04:13 AM   #40
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Good to know, let us know, if it works with line wrench. Here in Germany everyone told me the AC must be disconnected and removed to get access.
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      08-18-2019, 08:16 PM   #41
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Good to know, let us know, if it works with line wrench. Here in Germany everyone told me the AC must be disconnected and removed to get access.
That's my goal, I really don't feel like opening the a/c system.
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      08-25-2019, 02:06 PM   #42
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Good to know, let us know, if it works with line wrench. Here in Germany everyone told me the AC must be disconnected and removed to get access.
That's my goal, I really don't feel like opening the a/c system.
Good news! I did a little recon today. I agree that there is a ton of crap in the way going in from the top. However, invert, invert, always invert!

Straight shot from underneath the car. A/C lines are no where near it.
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      08-25-2019, 02:35 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by schlichtm3 View Post
Good to know, let us know, if it works with line wrench. Here in Germany everyone told me the AC must be disconnected and removed to get access.
That's my goal, I really don't feel like opening the a/c system.
Good news! I did a little recon today. I agree that there is a ton of crap in the way going in from the top. However, invert, invert, always invert!

Straight shot from underneath the car. A/C lines are no where near it.
UPDATE: Removal from underneath isn't too bad, I can get it with a short 17mm socket, universal, and about two feet of extensions.

Installation: Can't get my hand up there because the steering rack is in the way. I might take out the coolant reservoir, or at least move it to get the new one started by hand.
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      10-17-2019, 12:01 PM   #44
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I changed drivers side last week, today I had the clattering again. Change the days also on the Passanger side.
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