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      07-02-2019, 12:00 AM   #1
F18 Hornet
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DCT Failure Code

Hello Forum,

So I've had my car inspected by my mechanic and he found the following codes for my DCT:

5A48: Control Valve PV6: Short Circuit/Winding Fault
5A55: Control Valve PV7: Short Circuit/Winding Fault
5073: Supply of Valve Group 2: Faulty
5074: Supply of Valve Group 3: Faulty

He said that it's the Mechatronics, but I've heard a lot about a potential wire harness failure.

Here's some background on the failures:

- Only occurred twice in the past ~2 Months.
- Only when the engine and tranny is up to temp
- Ambient temperature is >80 degrees
- Will go away about 5-10 minutes
- Will not shift out of park
- Car has around 75k miles

If there's anything else, please let me know.

Thank you.

***Update 07/07/2019***
So I realized that I didn't add enough to this:

The issue will occur ONLY WHEN the car is restarted 5+ times in a day. If I drive it to work and back, it's no issues.
Took it to the dealership and they didn't see anything at first.

Praying that it's just a simple fix.

Last edited by F18 Hornet; 07-07-2019 at 11:21 PM.. Reason: Add more information to the first post.
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      07-03-2019, 01:44 AM   #2
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try checking your battery first, low voltage can cause this.
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      07-05-2019, 07:58 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinaju-Stein View Post
try checking your battery first, low voltage can cause this.
Thank you for the response.
The battery was replaced and the voltage is good.
Checked the terminals to make sure they looked good.
Considering replacing the red power distribution module on top of the car now just to see.
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      07-06-2019, 11:38 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F18 Hornet View Post
Thank you for the response.
The battery was replaced and the voltage is good.
Checked the terminals to make sure they looked good.
Considering replacing the red power distribution module on top of the car now just to see.
Those cables on that module are super fragile and cause a bunch of really difficult to diagnose issues. The one in my 335i was frayed and it caused issues with just about every system imaginable.
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      07-07-2019, 06:50 PM   #5
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I'm encountering the same 4 codes about once every 10 days.

Clearing DCT codes will have them come right back when engine starts. But after 15 mins of letting car sit quietly in a moment of retrospection about how this behavior is making it look, and then it's gone.

It drives fantastic. The car is in tip top shape almost 100k miles, and only thing not 100% is some tint in the corner of one door has about 1/4" peel and should have the whole window redone to last another decade. And 2 minor dings that need to be brought back in shape for perfection.

But otherwise this is a weird af issue. Worst case it means swapping in a used $1500 DCT, but that just seems overkill when it seems more likely something weird like condensation from the A/C getting on a connection on top of the DCT.

Mine started on 5/26. I replaced a relay for Fuse F22 thinking that possibly could be related if power was not dropping to the DCT maybe.. but not it. but hey $15 and that relay should be good for another decade, yay!

The frustrating part is that access to the connector and loom for the DCT is so impossibly tight to inspect w/o removing the DCT AFAIK. I'm hoping to find a way to better inspect it. maybe with lots of mirrors, or lasers, maybe nanobots.

I suspect a simple issue that few thoroughly diagnose for a root cause determination. I guess we are the team to do this.
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      07-07-2019, 11:14 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chocstraw View Post
Those cables on that module are super fragile and cause a bunch of really difficult to diagnose issues. The one in my 335i was frayed and it caused issues with just about every system imaginable.
Makes sense. The only cable that looks off is the yellow/black cable looks like it's sticking out weirdly. Not sure but will have that looked at.
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      07-07-2019, 11:19 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tallicia View Post
I'm encountering the same 4 codes about once every 10 days.

Clearing DCT codes will have them come right back when engine starts. But after 15 mins of letting car sit quietly in a moment of retrospection about how this behavior is making it look, and then it's gone.

It drives fantastic. The car is in tip top shape almost 100k miles, and only thing not 100% is some tint in the corner of one door has about 1/4" peel and should have the whole window redone to last another decade. And 2 minor dings that need to be brought back in shape for perfection.

But otherwise this is a weird af issue. Worst case it means swapping in a used $1500 DCT, but that just seems overkill when it seems more likely something weird like condensation from the A/C getting on a connection on top of the DCT.

Mine started on 5/26. I replaced a relay for Fuse F22 thinking that possibly could be related if power was not dropping to the DCT maybe.. but not it. but hey $15 and that relay should be good for another decade, yay!

The frustrating part is that access to the connector and loom for the DCT is so impossibly tight to inspect w/o removing the DCT AFAIK. I'm hoping to find a way to better inspect it. maybe with lots of mirrors, or lasers, maybe nanobots.

I suspect a simple issue that few thoroughly diagnose for a root cause determination. I guess we are the team to do this.

Dang. It's close but mine is stored basically.

The only way that it happens is if you start it 5+ times in one day, it'll cause it.

Trying to fiddle with that along with not really having a garage sucks.
Probably. I've read that it could be as simple as a dirty connection, but I'm not sure. I might just take it to a dealership and have them inspect it.

Haha, yup. Hopefully, it's not the mechatronics system that failed. That's a good $7k fix.....

The strangest thing is that the car will drive solid and will handle hard shifts, but only happens after the restarts... so annoying

Will definitely keep you updated if I find anything new. Hopefully just a simple fix.
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      07-10-2019, 05:20 PM   #8
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Keep us updated. I'll do the same.

Good thing is if it starts without the transmission malfunction complaining and stuck in park she drives great!
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      07-16-2019, 10:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tallicia View Post
Keep us updated. I'll do the same.

Good thing is if it starts without the transmission malfunction complaining and stuck in park she drives great!
Definitely! They're great cars, but this stupid error is annoying.

Also, I took it to my mechanic and he ran the codes through autologic and said it was the mechatronics, but I have my doubts. I'm also praying that it's not because it will be insanely expensive.
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      07-21-2019, 05:52 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tallicia View Post
Keep us updated. I'll do the same.

Good thing is if it starts without the transmission malfunction complaining and stuck in park she drives great!
Hey Tallicia,

Do you have an issue with hard shifting as well?
I noticed my car today shifting hard (sort of like there's a delay between me gassing the car and it engaging).
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      08-23-2019, 08:01 PM   #11
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Update:

The issue may now be fixed.
Had to switch out my alternator and it seems everything is fine, but I will rescan and confirm.
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      08-24-2019, 07:25 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F18 Hornet View Post
Update:

The issue may now be fixed.
Had to switch out my alternator and it seems everything is fine, but I will rescan and confirm.
I was having different 5A codes.

I had 5A41, 279D, and 2B13 before changing my battery. Then some of these went away and I got 5A53, 279D, and A7C9.

Been unplugging my dashcam since its hardwired into the fuse box. I think I I should get a magic box....

My car only has 15,000 miles and is a 2011.75 e90, I dont believe my transmission is f***** in anyway. Honestly, the past 2 days I drove it for 100 miles or so and it shifts flawlessly. Checking it out today at a indy shop to see if there are any codes. I had Alex take off the GTS tune in Wednesday and reset codes, before resetting he said he only saw 5A41 which was incorrect clutch pressure.
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      08-24-2019, 11:03 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F18 Hornet View Post
Hey Tallicia,

Do you have an issue with hard shifting as well?
I noticed my car today shifting hard (sort of like there's a delay between me gassing the car and it engaging).
hard shifting? slow or not quick? Not so much. When I'm in sport mode and TIMYOYO, shifts are crisp.

When not in sport and just commuting in Drive, they're typical lazy, but to be expected.
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      08-24-2019, 11:06 AM   #14
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FWIW, I would suspect the alternator, battery, or even the shift knob/selector, more than the machatronics.

When it's driving it's fantastic.

I actually went 4 weeks without a single startup throwing the stuck in park issue. THen it happened twice in 2 days. both at lunch.

It only happens at startup. and it is quite rare. and I've found if I just shut it off, talk a 5 mins walk, come back, usually it's totally fine. like it never had any issue.

One time it started up and DCT was behaving, but the SES light was on and DCT had errors. I cleared them and that was it.

I can't wait till we track down the root cause of this silliness.
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      08-24-2019, 12:15 PM   #15
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DCT Failure Code

Quote:
Originally Posted by F18 Hornet View Post
Update:

The issue may now be fixed.
Had to switch out my alternator and it seems everything is fine, but I will rescan and confirm.
I was having different 5A codes.

I had 5A41, 279D, and 2B13 before changing my battery. Then some of these went away and I got 5A53, 279D, and A7C9.

Been unplugging my dashcam since its hardwired into the fuse box. I think I I should get a magic box....

My car only has 15,000 miles and is a 2011.75 e90, I dont believe my transmission is f***** in anyway. Honestly, the past 2 days I drove it for 100 miles or so and it shifts flawlessly. Checking it out today at a indy shop to see if there are any codes. I had Alex take off the GTS tune in Wednesday and reset codes, before resetting he said he only saw 5A41 which was incorrect clutch pressure.
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      08-24-2019, 08:22 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xnfsx View Post
I was having different 5A codes.

I had 5A41, 279D, and 2B13 before changing my battery. Then some of these went away and I got 5A53, 279D, and A7C9.

Been unplugging my dashcam since its hardwired into the fuse box. I think I I should get a magic box....

My car only has 15,000 miles and is a 2011.75 e90, I dont believe my transmission is f***** in anyway. Honestly, the past 2 days I drove it for 100 miles or so and it shifts flawlessly. Checking it out today at a indy shop to see if there are any codes. I had Alex take off the GTS tune in Wednesday and reset codes, before resetting he said he only saw 5A41 which was incorrect clutch pressure.
Hmm, interesting. I might take my car to a BMW Dealership to see if my DCT software is up to date.
Still having 2 other issues and it's looking more and more like my Mechatronics system.

Now, on the 5A53, that's an overheating warning for the tranny and A7C9 is over-temp. It looks that 279D is an electrical problem. How's the tranny/engine oil? any leaks?
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      08-24-2019, 08:27 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tallicia View Post
FWIW, I would suspect the alternator, battery, or even the shift knob/selector, more than the machatronics.

When it's driving it's fantastic.

I actually went 4 weeks without a single startup throwing the stuck in park issue. THen it happened twice in 2 days. both at lunch.

It only happens at startup. and it is quite rare. and I've found if I just shut it off, talk a 5 mins walk, come back, usually it's totally fine. like it never had any issue.

One time it started up and DCT was behaving, but the SES light was on and DCT had errors. I cleared them and that was it.

I can't wait till we track down the root cause of this silliness.
Hmm...Interesting.
I'm taking it to my mechanic who has an AutoLogic Blue Box code reader and can read the codes and let me know.
The biggest thing that I notice is that sometimes when I start off from a stop (when the engine is at operational temp), the car will slam into gear or feel like that (almost like the transmission is going bad).
Still getting a CF27 Message and E094 from the Tranny.
Hopefully those other codes don't come back (but no tranny issues as of recently).
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      08-27-2019, 08:48 PM   #18
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What is AutoLogic Blue Box code reader?

I just use INPA+, or the carly adapter/app if I'm on the go.
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      08-27-2019, 09:29 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tallicia View Post
What is AutoLogic Blue Box code reader?

I just use INPA+, or the carly adapter/app if I'm on the go.
Check out this link:

https://us.autologic.com/products/bluebox

It's used by basically all independent shops.
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      08-27-2019, 11:08 PM   #20
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So I think I'm at the end of the line here now.
I had the computers re-scanned, and I have now 10 fault codes:

I. Function Centre, Roof (FZD)
- A669 Front Interior Lights

II. Siren with Tilt Sensor (SINE)
- 9D12 Internal Battery (New)

III. Car Access System (CAS)
- A127 Incorrect signal from engine management (New)

IV. Digital Motor/Diesel Electronics (DME/DDE)
- CDB8 Message (torque request, DKG, 0xB8) faulty, receiver DDE, transmitter EGS/SGM/DKG (New)
- CD9D Message (Transmission data, 0xBA) faulty, receiver DME, transmitter EGS/SMG/DKG (New)
- CDB4 Message (transmission data, 0x3B1) faulty, receiver DME, transmitter EGS/SMG/DKG (New)
- CD9E Message (transmission data 2, 0x1A2) faulty, receiver DDE, transmitter EGS/SGM/DKG (New)

V. Electronic Transmission Management (EGS)
- 5129 electr. fault at parking-lot magnet (energizing not possible) (New)
- CF27 Message (operation, gearbox selector switch 2, LIN) from GWS (New

VI. Gear Selector Switch (GWS)
- E094 No message...

Any help would be great...I'm about to lose my mind.
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      09-19-2019, 07:26 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F18 Hornet View Post
So I think I'm at the end of the line here now.
I had the computers re-scanned, and I have now 10 fault codes:

I. Function Centre, Roof (FZD)
- A669 Front Interior Lights

II. Siren with Tilt Sensor (SINE)
- 9D12 Internal Battery (New)

III. Car Access System (CAS)
- A127 Incorrect signal from engine management (New)

IV. Digital Motor/Diesel Electronics (DME/DDE)
- CDB8 Message (torque request, DKG, 0xB8) faulty, receiver DDE, transmitter EGS/SGM/DKG (New)
- CD9D Message (Transmission data, 0xBA) faulty, receiver DME, transmitter EGS/SMG/DKG (New)
- CDB4 Message (transmission data, 0x3B1) faulty, receiver DME, transmitter EGS/SMG/DKG (New)
- CD9E Message (transmission data 2, 0x1A2) faulty, receiver DDE, transmitter EGS/SGM/DKG (New)

V. Electronic Transmission Management (EGS)
- 5129 electr. fault at parking-lot magnet (energizing not possible) (New)
- CF27 Message (operation, gearbox selector switch 2, LIN) from GWS (New

VI. Gear Selector Switch (GWS)
- E094 No message...

Any help would be great...I'm about to lose my mind.
Did you every get this all squared away? I have the same 4 codes you started with and have done a battery replacement and am thinking alternator next. I'm just curious if I have all those other codes to look forward to next. What did you end up doing?
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      09-19-2019, 07:29 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tallicia View Post
FWIW, I would suspect the alternator, battery, or even the shift knob/selector, more than the machatronics.

When it's driving it's fantastic.

I actually went 4 weeks without a single startup throwing the stuck in park issue. THen it happened twice in 2 days. both at lunch.

It only happens at startup. and it is quite rare. and I've found if I just shut it off, talk a 5 mins walk, come back, usually it's totally fine. like it never had any issue.

One time it started up and DCT was behaving, but the SES light was on and DCT had errors. I cleared them and that was it.

I can't wait till we track down the root cause of this silliness.
I'm curious if you ever tracked down the cause of your codes? I had some weird behavior that caused me to take my car to the indy shop and he said the battery needed to be changed. Afterwards, the car threw the same 4 transmission codes twice on him. Both times, he waited 10 minutes started it up and it drove fine and went through the gears perfectly. He is thinking alternator next.

I'm just curious as to whether or not you ever got to the bottom of it?
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