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08-26-2020, 03:44 PM | #1233 |
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Howdy people,
Apologies if this is not the right place to ask, but after reading this thread I'm convinced there is some very knowledgeable users who may be able to help. I have a JoyeAuto wireless carplay for CIC installed in my 2005 325i. My e90 was originally fitted with CCC but retrofitted with CIC out of (i think) a 2010. The JoyeAuto box works, however does not seem to pick up my CANBUS properly.. in summary, everything works perfect with CIC, with ACP everything works except:[LIST]
So, my question to the experts.. is this likely because the 'car' is sending different CANBUS signals for those commands that the JoyeAuto CIC doesn't recognise, and:
Any advice or even thoughts and opinions would be greatly appreciated.. I love the ACP but the lack of steering wheel track changes is annoying especially after fitting paddle shifters! Thanks in advance, Tim. |
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08-26-2020, 04:28 PM | #1234 |
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I installed the Kremersino V3 and the bass issue is fixed. So far I can't tell the difference between combox iphone audio vs V3 aux in. In the past, i-drive aux input level for aux was turned all the way down to prevent distortion. I am now able to move it to the middle setting which matches the level of combox. This was in my E70 w/ 600 watt/16 speaker logic 7. Also, the user interface seems to respond faster as I click around with the i-drive controller.
I won't get to test normal use until next week. The E70 is stuck in the garage waiting for suspension parts. But if anyone has any specific questions I am happy to answer. Last edited by smass; 08-26-2020 at 04:34 PM.. |
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PACarGuy674.50 |
08-26-2020, 05:02 PM | #1235 | |
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08-26-2020, 07:08 PM | #1236 | |
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My steering wheel buttons do not register with the Kremersino. With Android Auto running, the steering wheel controls just operate the CIC in the background. In my case, I like this; I tend to run audio from USB or another car source with AA running silently. I hadn't put 2+2 together until your post, but I suspect that is precisely why steering wheel controls are ignored by these units on CIC-retrofitted cars. I upgraded the iDrive controller (ZBE), and it makes no difference to steering wheel controls. Based on a brief run through the wiring diagrams on newtis.info, I don't think this can be fixed by changing a module, except *maybe* the steering wheel itself. The radio is controlled by the KCAN_H and KCAN_L lines going to it. I believe the CAN frames are generated right at the steering wheel when the buttons are pushed. This makes me thing a steering wheel replacement is probably the only option. And I have no idea if that's feasible, or if it would introduce new issues to the car. |
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08-26-2020, 07:17 PM | #1237 | |
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I wonder if it could be fixed with and MCU change.. since these companies make devices for CCC units, then surely the MCU on those units would be able to interpret the CANBUS frames from a CCC based car... I have reached out to both JoyeAuto and Kremersino to see if either is willing to share information around whether the CIC / CCC units are the same hardware with different MCU's.. no reply as yet. |
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08-26-2020, 07:19 PM | #1238 |
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There is no mic integration. It comes with its own mic just like the V1. I have never used any mic function but I may test it eventually. Where does the V2 mic integration hook in? I may try to make something. I know the wiring runs from the overhead console to the trunk.
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08-26-2020, 07:23 PM | #1239 | |
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I have retrofitted CIC with dash into both of my E90. The 325i gets its screen and controller can bus from the factory connections. The 330i gets its screen and controller can bus from the back of the quadlock. I also have an E70 that has a CCC to CIC retrofit. Last weekend I removed a working V1 carplay box from my E70 and put it into my 330i. The V1 hooks into the power and bus for the i-drive controller. Once I turned on the ignition, I immediately noticed the dash start to flash. The fuel gauge was bouncing back and forth from full to empty, the i-drive screen had a nasty error message and even the odometer went blank and had the dot. This is classic bus issues that I have had during other retrofits I have done. First I unhooked the screen can bus wires from the quadlock and moved them to the correct locations of the junction box. This alone solved 80% of the errors. I then reviewed wiring diagrams and while the controller uses the same bus wirring as the quadlock, it does not hook to the quadlock. The junction point is under the middle of the console. I then disconnected the controller can bus from the quadlock and hooked it to the can bus wires that run next to the parking brake. It now has a short 9" run to the controller. That fixed the remaining issues. Looking back, the 330i had been haveing emulator issues which I was blaming on ebay emulators. Most likely, these were caused by the bus wiring. Next I will install another carplay in my 325i and I plan to correct the controller can bus wiring at that time. So if you are doing this retrofit, do yourself a favor and follow the exact factory wiring for the can bus. |
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08-26-2020, 08:40 PM | #1240 |
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smass Is your car all put back together yet? You mentioned that you got the rear view camera to work. Is there a way you can test out the front view camera input and tell me how it is activated? I am looking to see if it is able to activated on demand and not just automatically in D gear.
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08-26-2020, 09:29 PM | #1241 | |
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08-26-2020, 09:46 PM | #1242 | |
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08-26-2020, 09:54 PM | #1243 | |
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I did notice the MIC chassis harness has 2 wires, and the in-line splitter of the V2 harness has 3 pins. Most likely it is a ground split wire setup to switch between. FWIW, the Carplay phone call through AUX sounds better than the BT combox phone call.
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08-26-2020, 11:40 PM | #1244 | ||
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08-26-2020, 11:44 PM | #1245 |
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FYI for anyone interested, the boxes are on sale until the end of the week on Aliexpress.
V2 for $270.30 (reg $318.00) V3 for $219.30 (reg $258.00)
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08-27-2020, 10:02 AM | #1246 |
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Front camera works. It has 4 options after you turn it on in settings. Radar, 5 sec, 10 sec and 15 sec. It switches to front camera after going back into drive. If there is a way to manually switch to it, I don't know where it is.
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08-27-2020, 11:51 AM | #1247 | |
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08-27-2020, 03:20 PM | #1248 |
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Just a warning... The files on the Kremersino website for the V2 CIC may be bad. That is what was causing my problem. The MCU update makes the device unviewable. I was able to flashback to an older version, and everything works again.
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08-27-2020, 04:45 PM | #1249 | |
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My MCU was rendered useless until I got the new harness shipped to me from Michael. The current harness connects to the car from the iDrive controller in the center console where as the original harness I got with the V2 is a QuadLock in the back of the CIC unit. Whatever the case, the MCU update requires the idrive controller connection not the quadlock.
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08-27-2020, 04:52 PM | #1250 | ||
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08-27-2020, 06:19 PM | #1251 | |
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The package took about 14 business days to reach me. The install is literally also a complete reinstall if you are up to taking your stuff apart again.
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08-27-2020, 06:51 PM | #1252 | |
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08-28-2020, 08:41 AM | #1253 |
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Is there separate links for the v1, v2, etc? I don't see any indication on the aliexpress webpages for the Kremersino
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08-28-2020, 01:01 PM | #1254 |
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I have the newest JoyeAuto model for my CIC unit, and I am having zero luck getting it to function in my vehicle.
I know its not an m3 but figured Id give it a shot here since the later E9x models had CIC as well. I have had zero luck getting two different brands of apple car play retrofits to work in my vehicle now. It is a 10.2" CIC display on my 2013 BMW M6. I currently have all the dip switches to off and only 8 on for factory rear camera. When i hold the menu button the screen flickers and does nothing. My phone does not see the device on available devices. The joyeauto unit does blink blue when hooked up to my 4 pin I drive cable. (However, the only way I could get my idrive knob to work, was if I took both ends of the 10 pin unused I drive cable and connected them together). The i drive screen constantly flickers with this device attached though (think of like bad reception with a tv, where the picture scrambles and comes back). So in summary, The wiring for me is as follows: HEAD UNIT > JA LVDS > JA UNIT OEM LVDS > JA UNIT (did not use JA LVDS as an extension in between OEM LVDS cable and JA UNIT as that just produces a black screen on my I drive. OEM I drive 4 pin cable> JA I drive 4 pin cable> OEM control knob (leaving JA 10 pin i drive male and female cables disconnected results in OEM I drive knob not working. 10 pin male and female ends must be connected to work. Is there something I am missing here? I fear being such a late model CIC unit (literally the last month of production before switching to NBT, that something is off with my vehicle vs other CIC BMW's) Last edited by S85FTW; 08-28-2020 at 01:07 PM.. |
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