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05-31-2020, 08:28 AM | #45 |
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Impact driver and the Amazon tool. I went through 2 defeated my studs that were red loctited in about 5 minutes per corner.
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05-31-2020, 07:49 PM | #46 |
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Been a while since installed so I dont recall if I used red or blue but no heat. I am in AZ so maybe that negates the need for it but as Thundermoose states, I used a Milwaukee mid torque impact wrench and zipped them out.
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05-31-2020, 09:58 PM | #47 |
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I got one of those tools from the local oreilly auto parts. I also ordered another one of the the snap on collet tool too. I won't get a chance till next weekend to go at it again.
I also am using a Milwaukee 1/2 impact with four speeds. So hopefully with that combo everything will work out. |
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06-06-2020, 07:12 PM | #48 |
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I got the remaining studs out today. I found two more loose studs in the front drivers side. I’m glad I got these out. In the future if I do studs again I’ll likely replace the hubs with a press in option.
Thanks everyone for your suggestions and help! |
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06-17-2020, 09:25 AM | #49 |
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This. Use a simple propane torch like the handheld ones you can get from the hardware store and heat the base up where it threads into the hub. Use the double nut method and you will be surprised how easily it comes off. You shouldn't need a ton of heat (no need to get it glowing or anything). I used to just apply light pressure while heating and it would usually start to turn for removal.
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06-22-2020, 06:18 PM | #51 | |
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I had to buy two of them because they got beat up from using the impact to tighten and loosen. That should work as long as your threads are still good. |
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06-23-2020, 09:23 AM | #52 |
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hehe at the risk of sounding like a broken record-----the Amazon tool linked earlier in the thread has pulled over 100 studs without issue.....yes, the threads get ruined, but I'll say it again-----when I pull a wheel stud, I ain't never putting it back in! I always put a new one in.
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Last edited by dogbone; 06-23-2020 at 10:01 AM.. |
06-23-2020, 12:44 PM | #53 | |
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06-23-2020, 01:05 PM | #54 |
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I was about to reply to this post last night.
I also picked up the tool dogbone recommended and it worked flawlessly. Took off all 20 studs with ease. The first stud took me about 20 minutes, the other 19 took about 15 mins total. It took me a while to figure out how to release the stud from the tool once it is out |
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06-23-2020, 01:20 PM | #55 | |
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For anyone curious, the tool tightens onto the stud when the impact gun is reversing the stud out. So, to get the tool to loosen off the stud, you need to get a pipe wrench or locking hand vice and hold the outer shell in place. Then you need to put the impact gun into clockwise (righty-tighty) mode and spin the tool enough to get it to release the stud. Of course, it feels counterintuitive to loosen the tool off the removed stud by putting the impact gun in clockwise mode, but that's what you gotta do.
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06-23-2020, 03:29 PM | #56 | |
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07-01-2020, 03:29 PM | #57 |
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I have APEX studs that came with red locktight so that's what I used. I have an impact, so I guess we will buy the Amazon tool and see what happens. Would prefer not to have to take the calipers and rotors off.
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07-01-2020, 04:54 PM | #58 |
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This tool with take off the studs no problem. I had Apex studs installed with red loctite as directed.
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01-02-2021, 08:34 PM | #59 | |
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Hearing you talk about breaking these off at the hub, hoping I can get this one out Thanks for the super helpful information guys. |
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01-03-2021, 08:46 AM | #60 | |
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Yeah....getting that broken piece out of the hub is painful. I got decent at removing it and sometimes was able to remove it at the track, but there were times I could not get it out and it ruined track days. I had a couple that even a shop could not remove and I had to replace the hub. Most of my breaks were on the front. It got to the point that I kept spare front hubs in the trailer and would simply replace the whole front hub to salvage the day and deal with the broken piece later. Replacing a front hub is not hard once you remove the entire brake system. It’s just four bolts—-much easier than using a Dremel to carefully cut a notch into the the stud while not damaging the hub threads. And then using a propane torch hoping to break the loctite. And then trying to use a screwdriver in the notch I had cut to rotate the broken piece out. It worked sometimes but not all the time. Since you are tracking and breaking studs, I highly recommend going to 14mm press-in. The way the stress is distributed is fundamentally different than a threaded stud. With a press-in, there are no threads to reduce shank thickness inside the hub and there’s no thread stress/tension inside the hub. And the 14 mm press-in stud is actually 14.7mm of steel inside the hub flange compared to a shank thickness of 10.5mm of steel on a threaded 12mm stud (when you account for the shank thickness lost due to the threads). You’re working with 40% more steel at what clearly is a high stress spot. That is a MASSIVE difference in shank thickness. My friend who I referenced in the story above has since purchased the Core4 14mm press-in solution for all four corners as well. The irony is that I believe the Core4 14mm press-in is the best solution out there for our platform, but it’s actually less expensive than going with F80 M3 threaded 14mm hubs. So—-were you able to set a new personal best with the new pavement at Chuckwalla before you broke the stud? Many people at our event in November was crushing their old times. I ran both directions that weekend and set new PBs in both directions. |
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01-03-2021, 11:48 AM | #61 | |
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Luckily, didn’t use Loctite, so hoping to get this out myself. It looks like you didn’t drill into the stud, but used a dremel and screwdriver? Any reason not to drill into the broken stud? Love the new surface at Chuck, just amazing. PB‘s are still above 2:00 as it’s about my fifth or sixth time at this track (slow learner), but still stoked. |
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01-03-2021, 12:04 PM | #62 |
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Last time I broke a stud, I just drilled into the remaining stud and it ended up loosening up and screwed out the back of the hub. You could also use a left-hand drill bit and maybe get it to unscrew out the front as well. Mine had red loctite on them.
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01-03-2021, 12:22 PM | #63 |
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i'm due to replace my studs as part of my regular swaps... just ordered up the stud remover tool. thanks dogbone
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01-03-2021, 02:14 PM | #64 | |
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I was using 12.9 steel studs which is harder than the regular 10.9 steel used in most studs. It’s not so easy to drill.......sigh......I really hope those days are behind me. 10 days in of hard tracking on the Core4 14mm setup and all is good. |
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01-03-2021, 02:56 PM | #65 |
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What is the thought between M14 screw-in studs vs M12 Pressed in?
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01-03-2021, 04:09 PM | #66 |
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The owner of Core4 believes that the 12mm press-in is a perfectly fine solution for our platform. He points to a bunch of endurance race cars, including a heavy GTR that run his 12mm press-ins without issue.
I was the one that requested that he make a 14mm press-in setup for our platform. He did the homework and created a 14mm setup. The cost difference between the 14mm and 12mm press-in solutions is $250 for all four corners including the MSI studs. To me, it seems worth the few extra bucks to have the 14mm. 14mm threaded is ok. I ran that for a year in the front without problems. We drilled out the fronts with the Rogue Engineering jig kit. But if you’re really thinking about going to 14mm all the way around, the 14mm press-in option is cheaper than the F80 M3 hubs. Better and cheaper! What’s not to like?? geez I sound like a salesman.....wish I made a commission!! |
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