Considering a 160k+ mile E90 6MT

[cxt9597]

Hello, coming from an E36 M3/4/5 that I took from 126k -> just shy of 300k miles relatively trouble-free (all things considered). I want to move into an E90 M3 6MT and am looking at a few options.

One of them has 160k miles which doesn't necessarily scare me depending on the price but am wondering what the community thinks, what should I be aware of, and what impending maintenance items should I be thinking of?

I figure if the car was serviced well enough at 100k miles, then 200k shouldn't be too bad?

Thanks.

[drrust]

I have an E90 that I've had from 92k to 180k miles. Several items cropped up for me over the years that if haven't been addressed likely will need to be replaced at some point.

Throttle Actuators
Water Pump
Alternator

I've also had to replace the idle control valve, but not sure if that is a common item to fail at high mileage or not. AC compressor was also recently replaced, but haven't read that that component commonly fails.

[Ubersmooth]

Do it! Higher mileage E9x's can be had for a great deal IMO. Bought mine with 145k last April, getting ready to hit 150k in another week or two. The key is getting a car with thorough records, and be prepared to catch up on any deferred maintenance. For the price I got mine, even with the thousands I spent replacing the differential and a few other components, I can't even think of another car at that price point that is half as much fun to drive.

Seeing the prices of high mileage E36's and E46's, higher mileage E9x's are a great buy (again, if they've been maintained!) People asking $15k+ for a 200k mile E36

[Cyberdemon]

The real answer will depend on "what records do you have" showing when things were done.

Original clutch and flywheel?
Leaking/peeling valve covers?
Rod bearings?
General suspension & bushing wear - motor mounts, transmission mounts, drivetrain, etc.

The other stuff, fluids, plugs, brakes, tires, etc all are cost adders depending on the car.

With all that you just have to decide is getting a cheaper example more cost efficient if you need to put a lot into it right out of the gate.

If you found a car that was enthusiast owned, and well maintained I wouldn't have an issue with anything else on the chassis @ 160k esp if it was a warm weather car and hasn't seen lots of road salt.

[Idfkman]

I'm at 145k and apart from rear shocks nothing has necessarily "failed" on my car. I just took that as an opportunity to upgrade to coil-overs which I wanted to (and would have done) anyway.

I replaced a lot of items preventatively like rod bearings and throttle actuators. But, the car has never left me stranded on the side of the road nor had any real issues. I used to drive it 80 miles round trip to work 5 days a week (city+highway).

One thing to consider is if the car was tracked and how exactly it racked up those miles. A hardcore tracked and daily driven 160k miles is a bit different than a highway occasionally spirited drive 160k miles.

Does the 160k car have any mods or is it stock? Ideally I would want a stock car at that mileage.

[MPizza]

this doesn't sound like a great idea

[cxt9597]

Originally Posted by Idfkman

Does the 160k car have any mods or is it stock? Ideally I would want a stock car at that mileage.

Totally stock, looking to see if I can get it in the 15-17k range. Seems to be in good condition, will need to get it inspected as well.

[tdott]

I would be concerned about what has been done.

Everything could be Original (suspension, bushings, clutch, alternator, starter, etc) or a lot of that could have been done. That could change your ownership experience by a wide margin depending on what has been done.

If there are no records, be sure to have it inspected and pretty much assume nothing was done unless you can see it.

I bought a 140k mile E90 6MT sight unseen, drove it into my garage and did the bearings and all fluids. Otherwise everything was mostly original and in pretty good shape considering the mileage, the suspension is the main thing on my list to refresh next, but it honestly wasn't as bad as I was expecting for the mileage. But this was Spring 2020 and I could probably sell it for double what I paid.

[Idfkman]

Originally Posted by MPizza

this doesn't sound like a great idea

Depends on the price he pays. At 15k I'd take the gamble.

[amrazM]

Do it, I love seeing the Bimmers on marketplace with 200K plus miles.

In my opinion if you're buying a car with high mileage get a 2008, in my experience with they were built better than the LCI cars.

[LakeSurfer]

Rolling the dice with this one.

Any vehicle let alone a BMW with over 100k scares me but I'm not a BMW enthusiast so I'm sort of unbiased. Engine and drivability reliability is important to me, I don't care to much about the little things I just hate being stranded. My E93 M3 has only 50k miles on it and it has left me stranded 3 times. Sure that's not bad but I've only ever been in that position before one other time in all my years of driving. I love my car and plan to keep it but it has been the most troublesome and expensive car to maintain that I've ever owned. I also do as much of my own maintenance as possible.

The little things are even difficult. My oil filler cap developed a slow leak and over a few months I lost about a quart of oil. Then I got a low oil light. Well it's tough to find 10w-60 on any auto parts shelve so I had to order it online. I was also treated like an idiot at two auto parts stores because they didn't believe me that I needed a 60w motor oil. So that was fun.

Anyway, I'd speed $10k more for 50-100k fewer miles.

[tdott]

Originally Posted by LakeSurfer

My E93 M3 has only 50k miles on it and it has left me stranded 3 times. .

I've owned 2, my E92 since 2013, now with 115k miles, and an E90 with 145k for over a year now. Neither has ever left me stranded.

But I also address things preventatively and don't let major things get too bad. TAs were replaced as soon as codes popped up, car limped home, that was the closest it got to leaving me stranded *knock on wood*.

I've been lucky, but I think preventative maintenance is a factor also. That said if an alternator or starter went randomly those are typically unavoidable unless there were warning signs that were ignored.

[decimation1]

My e90 has 233k miles, still runs and drives as well as my 82k e92 did..... Although I bought it at around 210k 4 years ago, so I haven't put many miles on it, but to date no issues.

[LakeSurfer]

Originally Posted by tdott

I've owned 2, my E92 since 2013, now with 115k miles, and an E90 with 145k for over a year now. Neither has ever left me stranded.

But I also address things preventatively and don't let major things get too bad. TAs were replaced as soon as codes popped up, car limped home, that was the closest it got to leaving me stranded *knock on wood*.

I've been lucky, but I think preventative maintenance is a factor also. That said if an alternator or starter went randomly those are typically unavoidable unless there were warning signs that were ignored.

Maintenance is key and I agree. But I'm my case preventive maintenance was not a factor. I had some fuel sensor go out that left me on the side of the road, a nail in the tire, the E93 doesn't have a spare but not really maintenance related and my TAs went out at 40k on the highway. I was able to limp a mile or so but then it wouldn't start or run. And then my OEM battery died at only 4 years old. I've replaced a few other sensors, rod bearings and some other stuff. All of that and more was a little over $10,000 in 2 years.

I had a pickup truck that I bought with 30k mikes and sold it with 150k. I was lazy with maintenance and only did routine stuff, oil, plugs, tires and so on but I only spent maybe $3,000 in maintenance on that car within 120k miles. Not a high performance sports car but….

I guess my point is, if you're looking for a high milage M3 then I assume money is tight and if that's the case I wouldn't advise it. Especially if you're not mechanically inclined. TAs and rod bearings would cost at the dealer, what? $5-$6 grand?

[Idfkman]

Originally Posted by LakeSurfer

Maintenance is key and I agree. But I'm my case preventive maintenance was not a factor. I had some fuel sensor go out that left me on the side of the road, a nail in the tire, the E93 doesn't have a spare but not really maintenance related and my TAs went out at 40k on the highway. I was able to limp a mile or so but then it wouldn't start or run. And then my OEM battery died at only 4 years old. I've replaced a few other sensors, rod bearings and some other stuff. All of that and more was a little over $10,000 in 2 years.

I had a pickup truck that I bought with 30k mikes and sold it with 150k. I was lazy with maintenance and only did routine stuff, oil, plugs, tires and so on but I only spent maybe $3,000 in maintenance on that car within 120k miles. Not a high performance sports car but….

I guess my point is, if you're looking for a high milage M3 then I assume money is tight and if that's the case I wouldn't advise it. Especially if you're not mechanically inclined. TAs and rod bearings would cost at the dealer, what? $5-$6 grand?

I agree that if you're buying a high mileage car you should certainly be able (and be prepared) to at least do basic maintenance. TA's aren't particularly hard as a diy and seem to be the most common fail point. Rebuilt TA's are about 700 bucks + an afternoon worth of labor.

I would never go to the dealer to do out of warranty maintenance on these cars unless it's a recall.

Will a dealer even do RB's as preventative maintenance? They would have to charge at least 6k+ vs <3k at a reputable indy.

[MAE90M3]

Originally Posted by LakeSurfer

I guess my point is, if you're looking for a high milage M3 then I assume money is tight and if that's the case I wouldn't advise it. Especially if you're not mechanically inclined. TAs and rod bearings would cost at the dealer, what? $5-$6 grand?

That's not always true. I looked for a higher mileage car because to me if it has made it that far and was well maintained and been through a few service cycles, then it should last at least another 100k+ miles. I bought a car that was enthusiast owned from new, had every single maintenance record, and had almost all large items done. I've still put in around $7k replacing wear and tear items that a 13 year old car would need, but it has been incredibly reliable.

[LakeSurfer]

Originally Posted by MAE90M3

That's not always true. I looked for a higher mileage car because to me if it has made it that far and was well maintained and been through a few service cycles, then it should last at least another 100k+ miles. I bought a car that was enthusiast owned from new, had every single maintenance record, and had almost all large items done. I've still put in around $7k replacing wear and tear items that a 13 year old car would need, but it has been incredibly reliable.

Perhaps but I'd bet the car you're talking about is not an E9X M3.

I'm sure there are some M3's with crazy high miles but I would bet that an overwhelming majority will never touch 300k.

[bstone801]

Originally Posted by cxt9597

Hello, coming from an E36 M3/4/5 that I took from 126k -> just shy of 300k miles relatively trouble-free (all things considered). I want to move into an E90 M3 6MT and am looking at a few options.

One of them has 160k miles which doesn't necessarily scare me depending on the price but am wondering what the community thinks, what should I be aware of, and what impending maintenance items should I be thinking of?

I figure if the car was serviced well enough at 100k miles, then 200k shouldn't be too bad?

Thanks.

How much are they asking for the car?

[MAE90M3]

Originally Posted by LakeSurfer

Perhaps but I'd bet the car you're talking about is not an E9X M3.

I'm sure there are some M3's with crazy high miles but I would bet that an overwhelming majority will never touch 300k.

The car I am talking about is my E90 M3

[drrust]

In 5 years of ownership my car has 'stranded' me twice. First was a flat. I have since bought a spare. The second was for the alternator, but it died in front of my house. Went into limp mode because of throttle actuators too, but made it home OK.

Had an issue with my trunk not opening because of a cracked wire but that is a known issue with many BMW platforms.

Highest cost item besides rod bearings was a suspension refresh (shocks and bushings).

If there are good records, the high mileage vehicle may be appealing. Any vehicle can be a roll of the dice.

[cxt9597]

Originally Posted by LakeSurfer

I guess my point is, if you're looking for a high milage M3 then I assume money is tight and if that's the case I wouldn't advise it. Especially if you're not mechanically inclined. TAs and rod bearings would cost at the dealer, what? $5-$6 grand?

Nah, it's not about money being tight. It's that my previous E36 M3 I put a lot of miles on it (300k) and it was running strong. I had just invested a bunch into the suspension (coilovers, etc. as I was to resume autocrossing regularly) and was getting it towed to the body shop to get the bumper adjusted when the tow truck hit the car and totaled it.

So I set out to find an E90 M3 and basically am looking at $40k examples when this one popped up and was trying to figure out what an incremental $20-25k was worth since I'm used to higher miles.

[CamasM3e93]

I'm a year into e93 m3 ownership, having paid high 20k range for a 2012 with 45k miles at the time. The convertible is one you might not want to get with a lot of miles on it - to avoid taking a bath over the top malfunctioning. But yeah, I've toyed with the idea of picking up a 6MT e90 with high miles myself, now that I know the platform and can address most of it myself. Agree with the advice above, disagree with the naysayers - a well informed bargain is still a bargain and tough to find another car this fun with this much performance at the price point of the high milers.