(ENGINE RUNS!!!!) Broke down my engine block and changed the engine

[jvictormp]

Hey guys

If I buy a used block from a spun bearing engine, is there some way I can effectively wash the oil galleries from metal shavings?

Maybe putting some direct and reverse flow several times in each gallery with water and compressed air?

[hcskorpio]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

Hey guys

If I buy a used block from a spun bearing engine, is there some way I can effectively wash the oil galleries from metal shavings?

Maybe putting some direct and reverse flow several times in each gallery with water and compressed air?

You should look to see if the block can be ultrasonic cleaned. Definitely don't use water.

Honestly I would just buy an entire good working long block, put it on an engine stand, change the bearings and put it back in the car. It seems like all the misfiring caused extra fatigue on Cyl#5 plus we don't know how you torqued down everything when you changed the rod bearings.

[decimation1]

Originally Posted by drrust

The same seller on EBay also has a motor with low compression in one cylinder at a similar price point. Either route would be rolling the dice. One may be able to get either motor running well with your current motor donating some parts. Whichever route you take, make sure you've planned for some contingencies. Examples: on repaired block, alternator being out of alignment. Low compression block needing to get cylinders honed. The list could become extensive, but understanding the road you face will help with your decision making process.

mpartww aka mpartsworldwide--- I wouldn't touch anything from them with a 10 foot pole. They sold me a used motor that the owner "heard running prior to removal"......guess what, locked up with spun bearings when it arrived.

[jvictormp]

Well, I found a complete engine from an american car that was imported to Paraguay, engine was running fine, 114000 mls, 2008. They had some plans for it but had to abort it all, and the car had its parts sold separately, but the engine remained.

If it's everything okay, even then I would need to get the engine disassembled, check all the pistons and rods, the cylinder walls, replace the rod bearings, maybe the main ones too, all the rings, and what else? Can you point me?

Another question. If my engine kept the rod bearings in good shape, can I put them in the new engine, since they're BE Bearings and the bolts are BE-ARP?

[jvictormp]

Another question. I'm about to start the engine removal.

I'd like to keep the front of the car all assembled, as well as the steering rack, just lifting the engine. Will I be able to do that removing the transmission first?

I got the car lift in the garage, as well as the engine hoist.

[amrazM]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

Another question. I'm about to start the engine removal.

I'd like to keep the front of the car all assembled, as well as the steering rack, just lifting the engine. Will I be able to do that removing the transmission first?

I got the car lift in the garage, as well as the engine hoist.

how high does that lift go?

[drrust]

I have never taken the engine out of my car. But there is an extensive DIY. It didn't seem like removing the front end was that involved. Although it may sound like more work, it maybe a time saver in the long run. There was a video many years ago of a motor being pulled or put in without removing the front end. I recall it was a tight fit. (It may have been to put in a Dinan Stroker.)

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by amrazM

how high does that lift go?

More than the ceiling allows, which is only about 1.50 meter of elevation, depends on the car height.

[amrazM]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

More than the ceiling allows, which is only about 1.50 meter of elevation, depends on the car height.

I would drop it out of the bottom depending how much maximum height you will have below the car. it only takes about 2 hours to get it out from the bottom but you have to remove the center exhaust completely.

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by amrazM

I would drop it out of the bottom depending how much maximum height you will have below the car. it only takes about 2 hours to get it out from the bottom but you have to remove the center exhaust completely.

Sounds good.

In that case the gearbox would come attached to the engine, right?

[jvictormp]

And also the front subframe would need to come off too, and the steering rack. I don't know if I feel like doing it.

[Assimilator1]

I wouldn't be reusing the rod bearings from your old engine (even if they are recent), what happened to that engine again? Was it a broken rod? (can't remember).
Rod bolts on the unaffected cylinders would be ok to re-use, but if it broke a rod, probably not on that one.

(PS I see you have a VW 412 in the garage! I remember my father had a 412 Variant in the late 70s, they were rare then (here in the UK anyway), so I can't imagine how rare they are now! Is your one the estate version?).

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by Assimilator1

I wouldn't be reusing the rod bearings from your old engine (even if they are recent), what happened to that engine again? Was it a broken rod? (can't remember).
Rod bolts on the unaffected cylinders would be ok to re-use, but if it broke a rod, probably not on that one.

(PS I see you have a VW 412 in the garage! I remember my father had a 412 Variant in the late 70s, they were rare then (here in the UK anyway), so I can't imagine how rare they now! Is yours one the estate version?).

Still don't know what happened, I didn't disassemble the engine yet.

The old VW, is named Brasilia here, not 412.

There was only this version, not the 411 nor the 412, but it seems to be some mix between them.

It's not in the shape I'd like it to be, but it will some day. It was my first car, it took me to high school in 2010~2011.

[jp1984]

Just wanted to say good luck again.

You are undertaking a huge project and I will be following!

[Jiren]

Did you find an engine yet? I have an engine block for sale if you're still looking.

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by Jiren

Did you find an engine yet? I have an engine block for sale if you're still looking.

PM'ing.

[Denny347]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

Another question. I'm about to start the engine removal.

I'd like to keep the front of the car all assembled, as well as the steering rack, just lifting the engine. Will I be able to do that removing the transmission first?

I got the car lift in the garage, as well as the engine hoist.

I've never removed and engine, but I have a friend that does for a living (M's specifically). Put that car on the lift and remove the engine/trans from underneath. Especially if you can borrow a raise/lower platform that you can rest the subframe/engine/trans combo on.

[LakeSurfer]

I've never removed an engine on my own but I've helped others. I've done clutches and transmissions and other bigger jobs on my own though.

It took me a while to learn this and I still suck at it but cutting corners and looking for a faster, easier way to do most of the jobs that I've done, usually result in more time on the back end and in worst cases unintentional damage.

You're gonna be on top of the engine and underneath it and back and forth. So my suggestion would be if it's in your way and you have the space to put the part on a shelve, then just remove it. The bumper takes a few mins to remove and it will give you more space. Do you need to remove it? Probably not but if it helps just a little then it's probably worth it on a job like this. Also organization on the front end will help out tremendously on the back end. Label everything you can and keep nuts and bolts with the part or better screw them or bolt them back in. Having 1 extra screw in the end, if you're like me will keep you up at night.

I did some work on mine and tried to rush it recently and I have 1 cross point screw left over and I'm not even sure if it's for the car or another project but it's driving me crazy.

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by LakeSurfer

I've never removed an engine on my own but I've helped others. I've done clutches and transmissions and other bigger jobs on my own though.

It took me a while to learn this and I still suck at it but cutting corners and looking for a faster, easier way to do most of the jobs that I've done, usually result in more time on the back end and in worst cases unintentional damage.

You're gonna be on top of the engine and underneath it and back and forth. So my suggestion would be if it's in your way and you have the space to put the part on a shelve, then just remove it. The bumper takes a few mins to remove and it will give you more space. Do you need to remove it? Probably not but if it helps just a little then it's probably worth it on a job like this. Also organization on the front end will help out tremendously on the back end. Label everything you can and keep nuts and bolts with the part or better screw them or bolt them back in. Having 1 extra screw in the end, if you're like me will keep you up at night.

I did some work on mine and tried to rush it recently and I have 1 cross point screw left over and I'm not even sure if it's for the car or another project but it's driving me crazy.

Wise words, mate.

Thanks alot!

[jvictormp]

I'm attaching more pictures.

Some are showing the cyl 5 coil, which seems to be chinese, unbranded.

Others are showing the new huge hole I discovered after removing the intake plenum.

As you can see, the cyl 5 rod seems to be fallen from the piston, like broken in half, but firmly connected to the crank.

That makes me think that the bearings should be fine, as well as the crank.

Also, I'm removing the valve cover from bank 02, and I found the first bolt, more to the front, more to the center, like warped.

Maybe some old service badly done? Intriguing.

Edit.: shit, those pictures orientations.

[LakeSurfer]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

Wise words, mate.

Thanks alot!

For sure.

Funny thing. I just got done washing my truck, as I was cleaning the fender well I found where the missing screw was supposed to be. That thing was floating around for weeks. I'll sleep well tonight.

[Assimilator1]

Good you found where it came from

jvictormp
Is the broken rod still free moving on the crank?
If not, that'll probably be why it broke. If it is, curious! I don't think we've had an OEM rod that's just broken, usually either something has hydraulically locked the engine (water or fuel) and that's bent or broken the rod, or the rod bearings have failed leading to the rod breaking off the crank.