Mr12Volt P2000 - Carplay/Android Auto w/M.O.S.T *New Model Update*

[brettcp]

After having the most recent version of the mr12volt in my car for 5 days now, the OEM mic support is a great improvement over the previous version with the separate mic (which in my opinion wasn't even usable). I'd previously been using airpods for phone calls while in the car, but after installing this latest mr12volt version I'm able to use the OEM mic for calls again which is great. I don't make a ton of calls in the car but the handful of calls I have been on have sounded just fine on both ends. Probably not a big enough reason alone for most people to warrant the time+cost to upgrade, but if buying a new carplay box (or in my case replacing a failed unit) this would be the one to get.

I got it from GORDON.M3, shipped out within a day of ordering and I had it a few days later. Highly recommended!

[pathall1]

Originally Posted by brettcp

After having the most recent version of the mr12volt in my car for 5 days now, the OEM mic support is a great improvement over the previous version with the separate mic (which in my opinion wasn't even usable). I'd previously been using airpods for phone calls while in the car, but after installing this latest mr12volt version I'm able to use the OEM mic for calls again which is great. I don't make a ton of calls in the car but the handful of calls I have been on have sounded just fine on both ends. Probably not a big enough reason alone for most people to warrant the time+cost to upgrade, but if buying a new carplay box (or in my case replacing a failed unit) this would be the one to get.

I got it from GORDON.M3, shipped out within a day of ordering and I had it a few days later. Highly recommended!

Question - I know this new box uses the OEM microphone, but are you able to make calls without leaving CarPlay? I have the blue box (uses the m12volt mic) and I need to exit CarPlay and move to standard iDrive when making calls. I'd definitely upgrade if the new box allows for calls to be made within car play, but if it still requires switching back and forth to iDrive, I think it's only a marginal upgrade.

[Thumbie]

Originally Posted by pathall1

I have the blue box (uses the m12volt mic) and I need to exit CarPlay and move to standard iDrive when making calls.

The blue box can make calls through carplay/mr12volt, i.e. without going out to iDrive. I forget the exact setting and it's quite a few pages back. One option is to "forget" the bluetooth connection to bmw.

Some people prefer to exit carplay and make calls thru iDrive since you then are using the oem mic. but i like staying in, as you are trying to do.

[Ali-E90]

Originally Posted by pathall1

Question - I know this new box uses the OEM microphone, but are you able to make calls without leaving CarPlay? I have the blue box (uses the m12volt mic) and I need to exit CarPlay and move to standard iDrive when making calls. I'd definitely upgrade if the new box allows for calls to be made within car play, but if it still requires switching back and forth to iDrive, I think it's only a marginal upgrade.

I have the version for CCC that uses its own mic, not oem mic, and the calls stay in CarPlay for me.

Mic performance is another issue though lol

[nmehta211]

Originally Posted by Ali-E90

I have the version for CCC that uses its own mic, not oem mic, and the calls stay in CarPlay for me.

Mic performance is another issue though lol

could you elaborate? what happens with the MIC during phone calls? how did you remedy this?

TIA

[brettcp]

Originally Posted by pathall1

Question - I know this new box uses the OEM microphone, but are you able to make calls without leaving CarPlay? I have the blue box (uses the m12volt mic) and I need to exit CarPlay and move to standard iDrive when making calls. I'd definitely upgrade if the new box allows for calls to be made within car play, but if it still requires switching back and forth to iDrive, I think it's only a marginal upgrade.

Yes, delete ("forget") the factory BMW bluetooth connection and let carplay handle everything. This allows you to make calls without leaving the carplay interface.

[Ali-E90]

Originally Posted by nmehta211

could you elaborate? what happens with the MIC during phone calls? how did you remedy this?

TIA

I need to do more investigation, but essentially the sound is very muffled and somewhat muted (to the other party, I can hear fine). One call I had when the car was off seemed ok, but I just don't answer calls while driving now (or take my airpods with me for calls).

[nmehta211]

glowing review from chris harris on Mr12Volt installed in an E61 M5 touring, with CCC.

[GORDON.M3]

Originally Posted by nmehta211

glowing review from chris harris on Mr12Volt installed in an E61 M5 touring, with CCC.

Haha I saw that little bit on the new Youtube video.

Funny enough, here's a little video of him signing my E92 when he was here in North America.

View post on imgur.com

[vega_m3]

I have a mr12volt and I bought ProTools to have it coded on my 2008 with the CCC since it didn’t work when I initially just plugged it up. I am having a hard time finding my way through ProTools to code this thing and get it working. Can anyone help guide me? I would really appreciate it.

[Yabaa]

Anyone know the code to access advanced settings? Cant fins it anywhere, and customer support doesnt reply..

[derbo]

Originally Posted by Yabaa

Anyone know the code to access advanced settings? Cant fins it anywhere, and customer support doesnt reply..

Does the first post code not work?

Tips for accessing admin password protected menu (Thanks @2009550imsport ):
1. Go to the Settings -> System -> Factory Mode
2. Click on Advanced Setting
3. This will bring up a password prompt. Enter “688612” and press OK

[Yabaa]

No, 688612 doesnt work anymore, atleast not for me..

[GORDON.M3]

There's nothing in the advanced menu that end-users will need to use hence why they changed the password. People were tampering with the settings and bricking their own units trying to claim warranty with Mr12volt.

[gh0stE92M3]

Has there been an updated rear camera anyone recommends? Or is it still the one from before? I have the one that’s been posted before and haven’t installed it yet but I think I’m finally going to do it but wanted to see if there was a newer one that anyone recommends. I know people have claimed the camera low light vision sucks at night or during low light. So seeing if anyone is using one better?

[BGM3]

Hi everyone,

After taking some time to read the entire thread, I ordered and installed the unit in my 09 E92 yesterday. It's not working, and I was hoping someone could confirm some of my observations to help me debug the issue. My car is prod 04/09 CIC system with the following options:

639 - BMW Assist with Bluetooth
609 - Navigation System
620 - Voice Command
653 - HD Radio
6UH - Real Time Traffic Information
655 - Sirius XM Radio
6AA - BMW TeleServices
6AB - TeleService Control
6FL - iPod and USB Adapter
752 - Enhanced Premium Sound

As the car does not have a CD changer, I did not use the MOST bypass loop provided in the kit, only the FO Cable. After connecting everything and turning on the car, the I get two errors:

1. SOS call system malfunction!
2. No warning tones

No audio is working at all (radio, cd, usb). The Mr12Volt unit is showing a red light, and rest of the system seems to be functional. From reading this thread, I am under the impression that until the coding is done, the factory system should behave the same way as before the install. But the coding is what enables you to switch to CDC and use the Mr12Volt unit. Also there have been a few posts here that these are symptoms of an open MOST Loop. I suspect that the current coding in my car:

CDMM_CHANGER_3 == kein_cdc

is possibly disabling CD changer support, which is causing the issue. Does this sound plausible to anyone? I am thinking to either recode to mp3_cdc and then re-install the system or re-install the system then recode. Not sure which order here is better.

Thanks in advance for any help and input!

[tdott]

Originally Posted by BGM3

Also there have been a few posts here that these are symptoms of an open MOST Loop.

No sound is most likely an open loop, check the connection at the back of the head unit, there are two slots make sure it's in the right one, and check other connections on the FO splitter cable you installed.

Also coding should be done before the install, once the Plug and plug quadlock harness is installed behind the headunit, you won't be able to code the CIC anymore.

[BGM3]

Originally Posted by tdott

No sound is most likely an open loop, check the connection at the back of the head unit, there are two slots make sure it's in the right one, and check other connections on the FO splitter cable you installed.

Also coding should be done before the install, once the Plug and plug harness is installed, you won't be able to code the CIC anymore.

Ah, I see. I triple checked all of the connections and they are correct. So it's either the FO splitter or the unit itself. I contacted Mr12Volt support.

Just wondering, what about the harness makes it so that you can't code CIC after it's installed? I've seen plenty of posts about the coding being done after the install.

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by BGM3

Ah, I see. I triple checked all of the connections and they are correct. So it's either the FO splitter or the unit itself. I contacted Mr12Volt support.

Just wondering, what about the harness makes it so that you can't code CIC after it's installed? I've seen plenty of posts about the coding being done after the install.

There's a simpler method to allow you to root cause this, assuming the car was working correctly before hand.

Unplug the fiber optic connection on the mr12volt unit while the car is on. Do you see red light coming out of the cable? You should. If you don't, its not the unit. Assuming you don't, work your way backwards from the spliter. Is there light coming from fiber optic connection on the vehicle harness? There should be. Remember, MOST is a loop. Each device sends the signal to the next device in the loop. When the loop is broken, you just need to walk back to where you lose signal.

For the coding question, I think where this is possibly confusing some people is the previous mr12 volt boxes connected differently, by tapping into canbus at the idrive controller. People are able to code CIC with these versions installed.

The new oem microphone version uses a quadlock adapter with the cic unit quadlock plug. Something about connecting this way appears to break the ability to code the CIC unit.

[BGM3]

Originally Posted by drwankel

There's a simpler method to allow you to root cause this, assuming the car was working correctly before hand.

Unplug the fiber optic connection on the mr12volt unit while the car is on. Do you see red light coming out of the cable? You should. If you don't, its not the unit. Assuming you don't, work your way backwards from the spliter. Is there light coming from fiber optic connection on the vehicle harness? There should be. Remember, MOST is a loop. Each device sends the signal to the next device in the loop. When the loop is broken, you just need to walk back to where you lose signal.

For the coding question, I think where this is possibly confusing some people is the previous mr12 volt boxes connected differently, by tapping into canbus at the idrive controller. People are able to code CIC with these versions installed.

The new oem microphone version uses a quadlock adapter with the cic unit quadlock plug. Something about connecting this way appears to break the ability to code the CIC unit.

Thank you for clarifying the coding situation, and for the details on how to root cause the open MOST loop. I did the coding, then re-connected the Mr12Volt system and still had the same issue. Unplugging the FO connection at the unit I did not see any light. Even though I thought the connections were correct I think I did have the FO splitter installed wrong. I noticed that the vehicle harness FO connection does not output light when the system is on, but the CIC unit does. I think that I installed the original FO connection into the quad-lock adapter harness and the FO splitter into the CIC unit.

I appreciate your help here,

[tdott]

Originally Posted by BGM3

I think that I installed the original FO connection into the quad-lock adapter harness and the FO splitter into the CIC unit.

Remove the Mr12Volt harnesses and plug the stock harness back into the CIC and see if your CIC is working and has sound.

Keep trying, sometimes you think its right but it's not, you just have to find it.

[marsmaher]

Hello

I have bought p600 for my e87 130i with CCC
(rotating screen) with
S609 Navigation System Professional
S644 Preparation F Mobile Phone W Bluetooth
S672 CD Changer For 6 CDs

Problem: the p600 gets power and connects to my phone, but the “CD” is greyed out on my drive screen.

i have tried everything,

- Connecting directly to factory fitted CDC at trunk of car,
-Connecting use Y loop behind my CCC in the dash
and done the loop on the CDC
- Random Fiber optic cable under glovebox being looped.
- checked all FO connects and correct direction
- seeing red light outputting everywhere correctly
- cds work in drive and CDC when reverting and shows in idrive as normal


other information , i have a MULF2 fitted at boot for factory phone bluetooth. I have no idea what’s working and Mr12 Volt doesn’t reply to me anymore