Track forum general chit chat.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by rhyary

I want to publicly thank roastbeef for finding Future Classics solution to the M12 front hub weakness. I thought about Rogue Engineering solution but did not like it. Too much drilling.

My brakes hubs are already M14 ready so NO drilling.

I think Future Classic came up with the perfect and elegant solution.
.
.

Looks great, but slicer is who actually turned me on to it.

So did you get studs? Titanium? Is see you're back to the CCB's, what was causing the problem with the excessive wear you were getting?

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

Looks great, but slicer is who actually turned me on to it.

So did you get studs? Titanium? Is see you're back to the CCB's, what was causing the problem with the excessive wear you were getting?

No studs for now. I don't feel like introducing one more variable into what is already multi factors changes. Just OEM M14 lugs
.
There is no excessive wear on the pads. We do know now that the passenger front internal pad wears out more than the other 3. The front wear pattern is from most to least:
1. Passenger inside
2. Passenger outside
3. Driver inside
4. Driver ouside.

Currently the most wear is 7mm and least wear is 9mm.

All pads are identical so we flipped them accordingly to even out the wear.

You live and learn (it was expensive lesson) and now that I know, I check thickness where it count.

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

Looks great, but slicer is who actually turned me on to it.

So did you get studs? Titanium? Is see you're back to the CCB's, what was causing the problem with the excessive wear you were getting?

Thank you @slicer

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

Looks great, but slicer is who actually turned me on to it.

So did you get studs? Titanium? Is see you're back to the CCB's, what was causing the problem with the excessive wear you were getting?

I had the OEM brakes back on last year for few track days. I melted them on the first day and after that I drove on dry days like I am in the rain.

Until you experience carbon ceramic, and go back to OEM it is hard to comprehend the difference in control and predictability.

Caron Ceramic is not about the fact that it brakes better, it does, but it is about how predictable and consistent the brakes are. There is no fade, no change in rate of breaking, no change from the first session to last session. There is no change from three years ago on the same rotors. Pads last almost a whole season. requires only one change in 25 track days.

I am not advising for any one to get this or that equipment. But my experience with the Caron Ceramic breaks has been nothing but spectacular. We already discuss ad nausea the limited tire choices.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by rhyary

No studs for now. I don't feel like introducing one more variable into what is already multi factors changes. Just OEM M14 lugs
.
There is no excessive wear on the pads. We do know now that the passenger front internal pad wears out more than the other 3. The front wear pattern is from most to least:
1. Passenger inside
2. Passenger outside
3. Driver inside
4. Driver ouside.

Currently the most wear is 7mm and least wear is 9mm.

All pads are identical so we flipped them accordingly to even out the wear.

You live and learn (it was expensive lesson) and now that I know, I check thickness where it count.

What is the variable in the studs? If you just go with a steel stud, it's going to be comparable in weight, it's just easier to hang wheels.

I've learned the same lesson with the brake pad wear... we have a track over here, laguna seca, that typically wears at the inside passenger front pad excessively. A pro driver explained it simply as a high speed braking zone leading into one of the slower parts of the track, which is a double apex hairpin (or an elongated single late apex depending on car/style). It's a left turn where the inside passenger brake pad is turned away from any airflow for an extended amount of time if you don't have ducting.

I experience the CCB's on a competition m4 at a thermal club m track day. The brakes were good and didn't fade, but I prefer a little more bite. Have you ever tried different compounds, or are you stuck with what brembo gives you for the CCB?

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

What is the variable in the studs? If you just go with a steel stud, it's going to be comparable in weight, it's just easier to hang wheels.

I've learned the same lesson with the brake pad wear... we have a track over here, laguna seca, that typically wears at the inside passenger front pad excessively. A pro driver explained it simply as a high speed braking zone leading into one of the slower parts of the track, which is a double apex hairpin (or an elongated single late apex depending on car/style). It's a left turn where the inside passenger brake pad is turned away from any airflow for an extended amount of time if you don't have ducting.

I experience the CCB's on a competition m4 at a thermal club m track day. The brakes were good and didn't fade, but I prefer a little more bite. Have you ever tried different compounds, or are you stuck with what brembo gives you for the CCB?

I am happily stuck.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by rhyary

I am happily stuck.

?

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

?

It must be that voice recognition software...er Racevoice...again.

[roastbeef]

Software is facked ap.

[gmx]

lol, response derived from your last question to him...

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by dogbone

As far as the car battery, I think it depends on where you wire the AIM for power. Mine does not charge unless the ignition is fully on or the engine is running. In my car, if the AIM sniffs CAN data and turns on, the AIM will die. Nothing will happen to the car battery.

Mines the same.

Plus lap timing beginning in motion means when you leave the garage. Sometimes it's ten minutes before the session starts and I don't need all that data to sort out.

Sort of like having video of ten minutes sitting there doing nothing.

I turn everything on when the session is a go.

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by rhyary

Mounting to the cap holder works very well for me.
It is removable
There is a bolt with two plates sandwiching the cap holder and the AiM is mounted to the plate.

I can reach the button to flip the screens.

I have three screens I flip:
1. Lap information
2. Potentiometers display one for each corner
3. Car vitals. (temps etc)

Having unreachable buttons would drive me crazy just on principle. :-)
.

Does having it angled mess with g force calculation?

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

Does having it angled mess with g force calculation?

In my case it is a display only for the EVO5.
But you are bringing up a good and valid point for the DL.

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by rhyary

In my case it is a display only for the EVO5.
But you are bringing up a good and valid point for the DL.

oh yeah, you are the one with the crazy set up?

how's the shock travel monitoring going?

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

?

this made me think of this lol

[dparm]

Originally Posted by rhyary

I am happily stuck.

The aftermarket for CCB pads is growing, which is nice to see. The Corvette and Camaro Z/28 guys were stuck using the OEM Brembo pads for a long time, which in turn led to many of them swapping the rotors for GiroDisc iron ones.


Now you have Pagid and Endless giving owners a choice.

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by dparm

The aftermarket for CCB pads is growing, which is nice to see. The Corvette and Camaro Z/28 guys were stuck using the OEM Brembo pads for a long time, which in turn led to many of them swapping the rotors for GiroDisc iron ones.


Now you have Pagid and Endless giving owners a choice.

Excellent news.
Would love to pay less due to competition.

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

oh yeah, you are the one with the crazy set up?

how's the shock travel monitoring going?

I believe we finally got the potentiometers sorted out and I had 4 hours open track with LRDC and the pots survived the day.

Improved my best time to 1:01.75 and many laps in the 1:02s. 97 laps all together.

See my other thread for best lap video
.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by rhyary

Excellent news.
Would love to pay less due to competition.

The prices are not down to the levels of normal pads, but they're certainly better than the insane $800 amount that GM charges. I've not seen anything that describes if these aftermarket pads are any better, but the OEM stuff seems to be amazing -- so even if the performance is identical and it costs 20% less, that's a win.


You do have services that refurb the carbon rotors, too. In fact, the GM rotors are so cheap that my old shop (Fall-Line) said they typically just buy those and manufacture their own hub to fit other cars. Much cheaper than the Porsche or Ferrari prices for what is effectively the same part.

[kayha12]

Two things for you guys:

1) KW Clubsports - my rear strut, I was going to reset the dampening and add some stiffness to it. The instructions say to start full stiff and work your way back. I got all the way to full stiff (no added force or anything) but now the knob is stuck. Am I screwed? I tried driving around a bit to see if it'll loosen up but no luck

2) What front camber plates work with these coilovers? I'm at about -2.5 degrees front and that's "maxed" out before the sliding plate tucks under the actual strut mount on the car. Was thinking about slotting the holes to add camber this way; what is everyone else doing? Would like to get closer to -3ish

[slicer]

Originally Posted by kayha12

Two things for you guys:

1) KW Clubsports - my rear strut, I was going to reset the dampening and add some stiffness to it. The instructions say to start full stiff and work your way back. I got all the way to full stiff (no added force or anything) but now the knob is stuck. Am I screwed? I tried driving around a bit to see if it'll loosen up but no luck

2) What front camber plates work with these coilovers? I'm at about -2.5 degrees front and that's "maxed" out before the sliding plate tucks under the actual strut mount on the car. Was thinking about slotting the holes to add camber this way; what is everyone else doing? Would like to get closer to -3ish

You need to lift the front of car off the ground (both wheels to take load off the sway bar) and then lower the strut to reach the additional adjustment range. All camber plates that I know of require at least loosening of the upper shock mount to adjust. Do Not slot anything!

Rear adjustment damper - no suggestions for you.

[ThunderMoose]

Originally Posted by kayha12

Two things for you guys:

1) KW Clubsports - my rear strut, I was going to reset the dampening and add some stiffness to it. The instructions say to start full stiff and work your way back. I got all the way to full stiff (no added force or anything) but now the knob is stuck. Am I screwed? I tried driving around a bit to see if it'll loosen up but no luck

2) What front camber plates work with these coilovers? I'm at about -2.5 degrees front and that's "maxed" out before the sliding plate tucks under the actual strut mount on the car. Was thinking about slotting the holes to add camber this way; what is everyone else doing? Would like to get closer to -3ish

I was told not to run dampers at full stiff or full soft. I usually back one click from either extreme. I don't know what to say to get yours unstuck. I had that happen on my MCS but I gave it some extra force and it unstuck. I am hesitant to offer that as advice.