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      11-30-2020, 07:38 PM   #1563
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Ok, now that it is all done. I am pretty happy with it. This is such a UX improvement over Bluetooth or having an old iPhone in the armrest. Audio quality is pretty good to me.

I took out an iPad and spent some time adjusting the EQ on the Carsara settings by comparing sound from the USB direct connection on the iPad to the AUX output into the armrest. I can definitely notice the hiss of the analog connection when nothing is playing and the volume is on the high end. I doubt this would go away with the headunit AUX, maybe it'll be less noticeable.

I wouldn't call myself an audiophile but I like my sound to be of a certain "body". I like noticeable bass (when needed) and a good "soundstage" without mids or highs beeing overly present. I wasn't able to get the audio to sound exactly the same as the iPad, but, I got the Android Auto/Carsara Audio to sound pretty good. I might try again another time, but as of now the difference was basically a little bit in maybe mid-highs. Maybe the Carsara EQ doesn't allow me to fine tune those, but the bass sounds perfect. I tested some of my favorite songs and they sound great.

My steering wheel voice button calls up Google Assistant, but only when Android Auto is on the screen. The microphone works perfectly and it understands every command.

I had to disconnect my Pixel 5's BMW Bluetooth profile so the calls would go through the Carsara. They sound great, will have to see how I sound to others.

One issue I have is that Bluetooth A2DP does not work. I tried connecting only the iPad to Bluetooth (without the USB cable connected) and I got no audio at all. Not sure why. It's not a big deal because I don't expect to be using Bluetooth anytime soon, but would be nice to fix.

Another issue is that I thought the Android Auto screen would launch on its own after starting the car, but this doesn't seem to be the case. I have to hit the Menu button for 3 seconds for the screen to appear. Autoplay of my music did not work the first few times, but was working by the last time I tried.
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      11-30-2020, 08:10 PM   #1564
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ok so im at the install part where I am supposed to hook up the I drive harness. I still need to code the car. I plugged in the I drive harness to the high can plug.

So this is my question, do I need to run the AUX cable to the armrest? I dont see why I would.

At this point I should be able to code the car, ditch the I drive extension harness, connect A & B and call it a day.

From post #1476:
I tried to code it with the can cable as it is - this didn't work, the app couldn't connect to the headunit module. I then wired in the iDrive harness, connecting it to the can high cable (not sure if this really matters) and I could then code it.
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      11-30-2020, 10:25 PM   #1565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icanturn View Post
ok so im at the install part where I am supposed to hook up the I drive harness. I still need to code the car. I plugged in the I drive harness to the high can plug.

So this is my question, do I need to run the AUX cable to the armrest? I dont see why I would.

At this point I should be able to code the car, ditch the I drive extension harness, connect A & B and call it a day.

From post #1476:
I tried to code it with the can cable as it is - this didn't work, the app couldn't connect to the headunit module. I then wired in the iDrive harness, connecting it to the can high cable (not sure if this really matters) and I could then code it.
If you have everything apart, I would just code it with the CIC hooked up as normal (or try the loop in the Can connector as suggested) , then hook the Carsara back up and see if you get audio without the aux hooked up.

You might've already gotten there a few hours ago, let us know how it goes.

I'm just a little mad we figured out the coding piece like 3 days after I put everything back together. My wife is gonna wonder why the hell I have the car apart again with is more annoying to deal with than actually taking the car apart.
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      11-30-2020, 10:46 PM   #1566
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Originally Posted by Cyberdemon View Post
If you have everything apart, I would just code it with the CIC hooked up as normal (or try the loop in the Can connector as suggested), then hook the Carsara back up and see if you get audio without the aux hooked up.

You might've already gotten there a few hours ago, let us know how it goes.
Well at this point it would be more work to set up the headunit as factory than its worth. So im gonna try coding it with the I drive cable.

Anyways, do I need the full version of bimmercode? Or will the free version work?

I assume I need the full version, but not sure.
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      12-01-2020, 01:19 PM   #1567
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Update: I get everything working. I did need to buy the full version of bimmercode. You cant actually code anything with the free version.

I needed to play with the carsara EQ and raise the BMW aux to half. After I made some adjustments it sounds REALLY good. Much better than my tune2air dongle. The bass hits super hard and way more powerful than tune2air.

My only gripes so far is the UI seems to be a bit buggy. It dropped my BT connection a few times. Also when music is not playing (like between songs), I do hear some interference/static.

I put the antenna on the box itself, which it says not to do, but it fits perfectly there. So mabe I should put it somewhere else to reduce the static. The Bimmertech vid puts it right next the the box, but there is not much material for it to stick on to, and its still right next to the box, so im not sure if it will make a huge difference putting it there vs my location. I'll keep you updated in this.

I still need to wire in the backup camera, but im swamped with work today so its gonna have to wait until tomorrow.
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      12-01-2020, 01:47 PM   #1568
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bighindu79 View Post
I am going to go back and attach the idrive harness to allow cic coding. could you explain how you have yours connected or better yet have a picture of how its connected? do you have the terminator loop plugged in as well?
Once I'd connected the iDrive harness, I then plugged it into the can cable (high from memory bit I'll check) then it worked, and I could code it. I'll see if I have any pictures.
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      12-01-2020, 02:13 PM   #1569
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icanturn View Post
Update: I get everything working. I did need to buy the full version of bimmercode. You cant actually code anything with the free version.

I needed to play with the carsara EQ and raise the BMW aux to half. After I made some adjustments it sounds REALLY good. Much better than my tune2air dongle. The bass hits super hard and way more powerful than tune2air.

My only gripes so far is the UI seems to be a bit buggy. It dropped my BT connection a few times. Also when music is not playing (like between songs), I do hear some interference/static.

I put the antenna on the box itself, which it says not to do, but it fits perfectly there. So mabe I should put it somewhere else to reduce the static. The Bimmertech vid puts it right next the the box, but there is not much material for it to stick on to, and its still right next to the box, so im not sure if it will make a huge difference putting it there vs my location. I'll keep you updated in this.

I still need to wire in the backup camera, but im swamped with work today so its gonna have to wait until tomorrow.
Metal blocks RF, I would absolutely move the antenna.

I routed my antenna out of that CIC cavity entirely and put it on the plastic that forms the bottom shroud of the display, above where the central AC vents are. That makes it surrounded by plastic and I've had no issues with interference or connection issues. Placing it on the metal box means you're introducing a ton of interference once the headunit is in place, the metal box is on one side, and the PCB of the HVAC unit is in front. There's not a lot of space left for the RF to neatly escape.
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      12-01-2020, 02:14 PM   #1570
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Ok. I'll give that location a shot.
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      12-01-2020, 02:15 PM   #1571
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberdemon View Post
Metal blocks RF, I would absolutely move the antenna.

I routed my antenna out of that CIC cavity entirely and put it on the plastic that forms the bottom shroud of the display, above where the central AC vents are. That makes it surrounded by plastic and I've had no issues with interference or connection issues. Placing it on the metal box means you're introducing a ton of interference once the headunit is in place, the metal box is on one side, and the PCB of the HVAC unit is in front. There's not a lot of space left for the RF to neatly escape.
I put it under the trim at the side of the transmission tunnel, closer to the phone which lives on a wireless charging pad under the arm rest. No problems.
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      12-01-2020, 02:30 PM   #1572
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icanturn View Post

My only gripes so far is the UI seems to be a bit buggy. It dropped my BT connection a few times. Also when music is not playing (like between songs), I do hear some interference/static.

I put the antenna on the box itself, which it says not to do, but it fits perfectly there. So mabe I should put it somewhere else to reduce the static. The Bimmertech vid puts it right next the the box, but there is not much material for it to stick on to, and its still right next to the box, so im not sure if it will make a huge difference putting it there vs my location. I'll keep you updated in this.

I still need to wire in the backup camera, but im swamped with work today so its gonna have to wait until tomorrow.
I left mine in the spot that Bimmertech suggested and seems to work well so far. I believe that this external antenna is only used for Wi-Fi. Bluetooth usually uses a separate antenna, which could be inside the box. Both Android Auto and CarPlay use 5 Ghz for their WiFi connection to the box, Bluetooth is 2.4 Ghz.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cannyjock View Post
I put it under the trim at the side of the transmission tunnel, closer to the phone which lives on a wireless charging pad under the arm rest. No problems.
A wireless charging pad is my next project. Do you have info on your setup or a reference you used?
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      12-01-2020, 02:58 PM   #1573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoridersd View Post
I left mine in the spot that Bimmertech suggested and seems to work well so far. I believe that this external antenna is only used for Wi-Fi. Bluetooth usually uses a separate antenna, which could be inside the box. Both Android Auto and CarPlay use 5 Ghz for their WiFi connection to the box, Bluetooth is 2.4 Ghz.



A wireless charging pad is my next project. Do you have info on your setup or a reference you used?
I used the Induktiv charger, it was very very straight forward, no real DIY needed esp if you've already yanked out the center console once. Just unscrew the cigarette lighter, screw in the tray, plug it in and done.
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      12-01-2020, 03:49 PM   #1574
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoridersd View Post

3) There are instructions in this thread (https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpo...postcount=1486) to code the AUX in the back of the headunit vs using the aux cable into the armrest. I haven't tried this yet. Cannyjock reports quality is better, but there is a downside:



In the short tests I did with the armrest Aux, I did not have to switch to Aux again, it always worked after start up. I'll be doing some audio comparisons later today to see if I'm happy enough with the audio from the armrest AUX. If it sounds good to me and I don't have to worry about the startup audio at 0, I might keep it this way since I already ran the cable. It wasn't too difficult to run. I still need to test with the car running, hopefully there is no ground loop whine.
Just want to chime in about that. I do not have this issue with mine. It works perfectly with the quadlock aux coding and does not reset itself to 0 volume. I also tested the centre console aux prior to coding and don’t notice any difference in sound quality when using the quadlock aux vs. the centre console aux. I don’t notice any ground loop whine when volume is turned up and no music playing.

If anyone is planning to code the CIC and/or doesn’t want communication errors when scanning with ISTA/other diagnostic software then I’d recommend just running the iDrive controller extension cable. It’s simple to do on an E9X by just pulling up on the centre console. I chose not to run the iDrive controller extension cable because removing the centre area on an E70 was more work than it was worth.

If anyone has questions regarding the coding or which connectors need to be plugged into what then PM me and I can walk you through it. I did post a picture a few pages back, but it might not make sense until you have your unit and harness in your hands.
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      12-01-2020, 04:19 PM   #1575
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danzio2020 View Post
Just want to chime in about that. I do not have this issue with mine. It works perfectly with the quadlock aux coding and does not reset itself to 0 volume. I also tested the centre console aux prior to coding and don’t notice any difference in sound quality when using the quadlock aux vs. the centre console aux. I don’t notice any ground loop whine when volume is turned up and no music playing.

If anyone is planning to code the CIC and/or doesn’t want communication errors when scanning with ISTA/other diagnostic software then I’d recommend just running the iDrive controller extension cable. It’s simple to do on an E9X by just pulling up on the centre console. I chose not to run the iDrive controller extension cable because removing the centre area on an E70 was more work than it was worth.

If anyone has questions regarding the coding or which connectors need to be plugged into what then PM me and I can walk you through it. I did post a picture a few pages back, but it might not make sense until you have your unit and harness in your hands.
Thanks - I'll check the AUX volume again, not been in the car this week.
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      12-01-2020, 04:21 PM   #1576
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoridersd View Post
I left mine in the spot that Bimmertech suggested and seems to work well so far. I believe that this external antenna is only used for Wi-Fi. Bluetooth usually uses a separate antenna, which could be inside the box. Both Android Auto and CarPlay use 5 Ghz for their WiFi connection to the box, Bluetooth is 2.4 Ghz.



A wireless charging pad is my next project. Do you have info on your setup or a reference you used?
I just plug this in under the armrest using an adapter in the power socket. It's rubber so the phone doesn't slide around.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07...b_b_asin_title
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      12-01-2020, 04:25 PM   #1577
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Just ordered the Carsara unit, does anyone know how to wire the reverse camera for a DCT? Do I wire it as an auto or the manual transmission?
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      12-01-2020, 05:16 PM   #1578
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Just ordered the Carsara unit, does anyone know how to wire the reverse camera for a DCT? Do I wire it as an auto or the manual transmission?
Wire it as auto (yellow wire), just make sure to set "reverse line detect" to Off. I had it wired correctly and was trying to diagnose the wiring only to realize it was just that software toggle.
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      12-01-2020, 06:51 PM   #1579
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My Carsara unit just arrived as well. Will hopefully get around to removing the Kremersino v1 I currently have and installing this unit this week. Thanks for all the info so far from the Carsara first adopters!
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      12-01-2020, 08:17 PM   #1580
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My Carsara unit just arrived as well. Will hopefully get around to removing the Kremersino v1 I currently have and installing this unit this week. Thanks for all the info so far from the Carsara first adopters!
About how long it it take to arrive?
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      12-01-2020, 09:29 PM   #1581
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So two years after starting this thread, it appears we finally have the fully baked solution that we've all been waiting for! Are there any remaining downsides or differences between the Carsara box and factory ACP? I think it may be time for me to pull the trigger...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberdemon View Post
I got one of the ones Sangria recommended with the Sony 720p chip. It actually just showed up yesterday and has the same connector as my current camera so I may plug it in and see if there's a obvious difference. My current camera looks 720p but not fisheye.

If anyone wants a camera I'll sell whichever one I don't use.
Sorry if I missed it, but did you notice any difference between the cameras you have tried?
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      12-02-2020, 09:17 AM   #1582
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Originally Posted by Iyzmi View Post
So two years after starting this thread, it appears we finally have the fully baked solution that we've all been waiting for! Are there any remaining downsides or differences between the Carsara box and factory ACP? I think it may be time for me to pull the trigger...



Sorry if I missed it, but did you notice any difference between the cameras you have tried?
Yes, I tried 4 cameras. The cheapest one I got off Amazon seemed to have issues with power fluctuation. It produced flicker/scan lines even testing it on a bench 12v power supply. I got a $65 720p one off Amazon that had good quality, but was expensive. If you didn't want to wait for shipping, I'd recommend this one. It has a small connector too, so it's easier to route through the trunk rubber shroud into the car.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P3NV68D..._w96XFb5646SEW

I then wound up getting another one off Amazon but it was a 120deg FOV. I used it for a few days then swapped it for a 170 fisheye (my 2/yo loves leaving toys in the driveway so the extra range helped).

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3288...380b4c4dZL2lFp

This China cam Option D was the one I ended up using. It was the cheapest option (~$28) the only downside is it uses a full size RCA for connection. This meant it took a bit of vaseline and a good fish wire to pull it through the rubber shroud. It wasn't too bad, I just had to do it very slowly where I moved it up a tiny bit at a time, then slowly pulled the rubber housing over it. The narrow connector on the $65 cam probably would've slipped right through.

Image quality is good though and had no other issues. By the time I returned and resold the other cameras I got it wound up costing me like $45, but it was a direct swap that didn't require rewiring.

Image quality from the final cam.
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      12-02-2020, 10:44 AM   #1583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberdemon View Post
Yes, I tried 4 cameras. The cheapest one I got off Amazon seemed to have issues with power fluctuation. It produced flicker/scan lines even testing it on a bench 12v power supply. I got a $65 720p one off Amazon that had good quality, but was expensive. If you didn't want to wait for shipping, I'd recommend this one. It has a small connector too, so it's easier to route through the trunk rubber shroud into the car.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P3NV68D..._w96XFb5646SEW

I then wound up getting another one off Amazon but it was a 120deg FOV. I used it for a few days then swapped it for a 170 fisheye (my 2/yo loves leaving toys in the driveway so the extra range helped).

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3288...380b4c4dZL2lFp

This China cam Option D was the one I ended up using. It was the cheapest option (~$28) the only downside is it uses a full size RCA for connection. This meant it took a bit of vaseline and a good fish wire to pull it through the rubber shroud. It wasn't too bad, I just had to do it very slowly where I moved it up a tiny bit at a time, then slowly pulled the rubber housing over it. The narrow connector on the $65 cam probably would've slipped right through.

Image quality is good though and had no other issues. By the time I returned and resold the other cameras I got it wound up costing me like $45, but it was a direct swap that didn't require rewiring.

Image quality from the final cam.
Attachment 2474015
Thank you for the details. Did you have to wire a relay as others have mentioned or was the camera plug'n'play with the Carsara box?
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      12-02-2020, 10:49 AM   #1584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cannyjock View Post
I just plug this in under the armrest using an adapter in the power socket. It's rubber so the phone doesn't slide around.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07...b_b_asin_title
Thanks!

I wanted to give everyone a heads up about an issue I had with my Ali Express order when paying with a Chase Credit Card (Sapphire Reserve in my case). I found a long Reddit thread with people having similar issues with Chase Cards. (https://www.reddit.com/r/Aliexpress/...h_advance_fee/)

If you buy using PayPal on Ali Express, the transaction is processed as a Cash Advance, which unfortunately on Chase triggers a $10 miniumum or 5% (no max) Cash Advance Fee PER transaction. This also kicks off a 26.24% APR right away, so if you wait to pay your full balance on the due date (like I usually do), you'll have additional interest charges on that Cash Advance balance.

Chase was friendly enough to me in reversing the charges, and I submitted a payment right away to cover the full Cash Advance balance to avoid any future interest charges. So if you used PayPal and a Chase card, check your card activity!

Back to the topic. I had my first long drive yesterday and the system performed pretty well. There are a few odd things here and there:

- Sometimes the screen will stay on after turning off the car, and it will show the iDrive menu. Cycling through power again gets it to turn off
- I had some static noise show up after getting in the car and starting the system up. It sounded a bit like some Bluetooth noise I would get with the CIC Bluetooth Streaming. I power cycled the unit and it went away
- The Previous/Next steering wheel controls are the reverse of what I am used to with iDrive. The Top button becomes Next/Forward when controlling the Carsara unit, vs it being the Back/Reverse button with CIC Bluetooth/USB/BMW Apps. The Bottom botton is equally reversed.
- Music/Podcasts will resume playing without me doing anything, which is nice, but the Android Auto screen will not pop up on its own. I have to hold the menu button every time.
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