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11-30-2020, 10:40 PM | #1 |
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engine light with increased emissions
Hello:
I have seen a number of posts over the years about this problem but seeking advise with my "unique" situation. I have a 2008 M3 convertible that I keep at a second "vacation home" in Prescott, AZ. I have a 2020 M4 convertible with the competition package in Phoenix that is my daily driver. I have been driving the 2008 M3 every weekend up in Prescott since August. It has been driving great. For those that do not know, it gets pretty cold in Prescott in the winter. This past weekend, I took the M3 out early in the morning to go to the gym. It sat out in the cold, @ 25 degree weather for an hour. I drove it back to my house and the engine light came on with the increased emissions signal as I was pulling in the driveway. I parked the car back in the garage and have not driven it since. I contacted my mechanic in Phoenix and the plan is to try driving it when I am back in Prescott on Friday, and if it drives ok, drive it back to Phoenix (90 miles) for my mechanic to have a look. I was thinking about bringing it back to Phoenix for the winter anyway. Is it possible it is just the really cold weather that triggered the engine warning light? I have never had the M3 in weather that cold before. It has been a really solid car that I bought new; it is 100% stock with @ 60 K miles. Thanks. |
12-01-2020, 11:31 AM | #2 |
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Were you able to pull any codes off the car?
I had the same issue with my 08 e92 about a year ago and it turned out to be a bad coil pack. The codes that I had were 27A3, 2B38, and 2B57. As a preventative, I changed all my coil packs and plugs and luckily I did this before the prices of the OEM coil packs doubled and became backordered. I did try the Bremi branded packs but they did not work on my 08 and was able to exchange them for the new OEM packs Last edited by r8ders; 12-01-2020 at 11:38 AM.. |
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12-01-2020, 04:52 PM | #3 |
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I have not bought the tool to check codes; I probably need to do that. I will repost after my mechanic can take a look assuming I can drive it back to Phoenix this weekend.
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12-01-2020, 09:52 PM | #4 |
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Ever changed the TA’s ? You're about that mileage that they go out.
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12-01-2020, 10:20 PM | #5 |
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I do not think so. I will definitely have my mechanic check, thanks.
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12-03-2020, 11:14 AM | #6 |
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Check the codes, I had the same message on Idrive, but the codes pointed at Thermostat sensor and another one about thermostat temperature control.
Swapped thermostat and temp sensor with new items, all good since. EDIT: Mine also started when weather got cold around here in Boston about 2 weeks ago. |
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12-04-2020, 11:13 AM | #7 | |
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12-04-2020, 11:16 AM | #8 | |
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At some point you will need to change it... The thermostat does get stuck open and not closed, but if by any chance it stays closed... big problem. |
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12-04-2020, 11:25 AM | #9 |
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Thanks for the info and fast reply. I am glad these stick open, since I lost a head gasket in an older Corvette from it sticking closed.
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12-05-2020, 05:39 AM | #10 |
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Ok dealing with the same issue now in my 2011, and too the check engine light turned on when the weather got a colder.
I've read that it could be several things... secondary air pump valves, bad battery, fuel tank breather sensor, as well as the thermostat and/or air temp sensor. |
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12-10-2020, 08:14 AM | #11 |
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Having a warm day of 5 Celsius and my check engine light disappeared once again Gonna play the "lets see how long it stays off this time" game since there is not much else to do during lockdown.
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12-10-2020, 09:40 AM | #12 |
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Happened to me on both my E92 and E90; was the thermostat on both occasions. Does your car get up to temp slowly? Where does your temp gauge sit when its "fully warm"
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12-10-2020, 10:16 AM | #13 | |
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My temp gauge sits not quite at 6 o'clock (which would be 210 degrees)... I'd say somewhere around 190ish Where should it be?? |
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12-10-2020, 10:26 AM | #14 |
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Yeah, thats exactly what my previous e92 did, i had a 40 minute drive to work and it never really got to "full temp". I'd imagine your thermostat is stuck open maybe? I think the increased emissions is tied into the car not warming up properly.
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12-10-2020, 11:42 AM | #15 | |
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12-10-2020, 12:40 PM | #16 |
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you can't *feel* how long the car warms up, if the error showed up once, it will show again. Thermostat is on the way out. I would not risk it, and change it asap.
It cost me 60 bucks all up, and about 1.5 hours of labor. (It was a bitch to remove the rear hose from the intake plenum; and I took my time in cleaning the thermostat housing from the gunk left behind by old thermostat). Otherwise, pretty straight forward job, easy. |
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12-10-2020, 04:32 PM | #17 | |
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Would you recommend I replace the water pump while I'm already in that far? I'm at 92k miles. |
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12-11-2020, 10:31 AM | #18 | |
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I am at 49k miles, so I left it alone for now. |
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12-11-2020, 10:52 AM | #19 |
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Probably a good idea, it wasn't too bad once you had enough off to access the thermostat. I didn't remove the radiator fan to access the tensioner, but do beware that the pulley is very interesting to get back onto the water pump (for me anyway). The space where the pump pulley goes is very tight, so it took me a bit to get the wp pulley back on it when it was installed. If you do end up doing it and run into an issue shoot me a message maybe I can help you.
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12-11-2020, 10:53 AM | #20 |
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During the colder months that seems normal. You are fishing for a solution. Don't just randomly buy parts. You need to check the codes and go from there.
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12-12-2020, 08:08 AM | #21 |
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The heat from the vents hits my car within one minute which is crazy fast, but the temperature gauge usually sits at about 7 o'clock when on a long drive and only at 6 o'clock if idling for a prolonged period.
My cheapass china code reader says it is the thermostat and I am going to grab a bluedriver and see what it says.
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