BMW M3 Forum (E90 E92)

BMW Garage BMW Meets Register Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read


Go Back   M3Post - BMW M3 Forum > E90/E92 M3 Technical Topics > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis
 
European Auto Source (EAS)
Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      07-28-2019, 11:38 AM   #89
VictorH
Major
285
Rep
1,170
Posts

Drives: '09 M3
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: SC

iTrader: (4)

Okay, full Mickey Mouse mode here, but hey, it it works and doesn't damage anything, no harm. Pressing out the front two diff bushings.
1/2 plywood with 2 1/8" hole in it, two pieces of 1/8" steel, with 1/2" hole drilled through middle (one piece alone bends) and something to space the bar as the bushing comes out, which as you can tell was scrap from the garage). The rubber is bonded strong enough to the outer rim that the whole works comes out as one. When you're pulling the center center comes out about 1/2" in front of the bushing outer ring but it works. No complaints here!
Attached Images
   
Appreciate 0
      07-28-2019, 01:24 PM   #90
VictorH
Major
285
Rep
1,170
Posts

Drives: '09 M3
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: SC

iTrader: (4)

Purple diff bushings now all installed too. Very easy, no need to document any of that.
For those of you waiting for a road review of the difference, it will no way be an apples-to-apples comparison, i.e. stock subframe bushings compared to solid.

Changes to the rear (and partly front but not done yet)
1) Bimmerworld billet subframe bushings
2) Purple polyurathane differential mounts, all three
3) New shocks and struts

I hope it's not a monster in terms of noise and stiffness, I guess we'll see, will keep you posted.
Attached Images
  
Appreciate 0
      07-28-2019, 02:12 PM   #91
SAMM3Y
Major
SAMM3Y's Avatar
973
Rep
1,064
Posts

Drives: 2008 m3
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: NorCal

iTrader: (1)

Victor, the live blog was awesome thanks for sharing. You have definitely given me some insight for when I get around to doing mine, for now the BW box will go into the attic lol.
__________________
Stoptech st60/40 // OhlinsR&t // dinan sway/camber // 4.10 osgiken lsd // apex ps7 // supersprint // turner xpipe/shark tune // recaro sportsters // turner shift kit //awron gauge // ess 625 not currently installed // spec clutch not installed yet
Appreciate 0
      07-30-2019, 04:30 PM   #92
VictorH
Major
285
Rep
1,170
Posts

Drives: '09 M3
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: SC

iTrader: (4)

Since I'm friendly now with my local machine shop, I had them make up some spacer sleeves to put into the bushing between the M12 bolts and the bushing to eliminate some of the slop.
As has been pointed out, this is probably not necessary, but I wanted to try and ensure I had my subframe as centered over the bolt holes as possible. If you wanted to replicate the specs are
OD- 5/8"
Front bushing length 1 3/4"
Back Bushing length 2 3/4"
They fit loose and length is just right not interfere with either end of the bushing or mounting surface.

Subframe back-in. Should go fast to finish up but have a few competing time interests.
The amount of movement, of the subframe, with the bushings in place is probably on the order of a 1/16" or so, it's really quite minimal.
Attached Images
   
Appreciate 0
      07-30-2019, 06:00 PM   #93
M43S7RO
Captain
274
Rep
716
Posts

Drives: Jerez Black E92 M3
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Peoria, AZ

iTrader: (12)

Victor, the round washer-like plates in the rear of the subframe do not get reused with the bw bushings. I dont think I've seen them reused with any solid subframe bushings for that matter.

Attached is the instruction pdf I got from Bimmerworld:


Quote:
Originally Posted by VictorH View Post
Since I'm friendly now with my local machine shop, I had them make up some spacer sleeves to put into the bushing between the M12 bolts and the bushing to eliminate some of the slop.
As has been pointed out, this is probably not necessary, but I wanted to try and ensure I had my subframe as centered over the bolt holes as possible. If you wanted to replicate the specs are
OD- 5/8"
Front bushing length 1 3/4"
Back Bushing length 2 3/4"
They fit loose and length is just right not interfere with either end of the bushing or mounting surface.

Subframe back-in. Should go fast to finish up but have a few competing time interests.
The amount of movement, of the subframe, with the bushings in place is probably on the order of a 1/16" or so, it's really quite minimal.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf e9x subframe bushng orientation.pdf (96.6 KB, 13 views)
Appreciate 0
      07-30-2019, 06:34 PM   #94
VictorH
Major
285
Rep
1,170
Posts

Drives: '09 M3
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: SC

iTrader: (4)

Thank you!! You've kept me straight throughout this process. I didn't receive any instructions with my sub-frame bushings, so this is new to me. Thank you. They'll come off tonight! Appreciate your tracking along.
Appreciate 0
      07-31-2019, 11:15 AM   #95
M43S7RO
Captain
274
Rep
716
Posts

Drives: Jerez Black E92 M3
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Peoria, AZ

iTrader: (12)

I asked for instructions AFTER I put one in the wrong direction.

Nice job!

Quote:
Originally Posted by VictorH View Post
Thank you!! You've kept me straight throughout this process. I didn't receive any instructions with my sub-frame bushings, so this is new to me. Thank you. They'll come off tonight! Appreciate your tracking along.
Appreciate 0
      07-31-2019, 07:41 PM   #96
Redd
Major
474
Rep
1,123
Posts

Drives: 2010 BMW E92 M3 Dakar Edition
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Malaysia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterP View Post
My shop made index marks before removing the rear subframe. You're beyond that now.

I do not know for certain if someone makes "rigid collars" for the E92 but it's popular with the JDM crowd for this.
Yes rigid collars for E9x M3 are available and they are cheap. They are also unnecessary. I had them installed on the front subframe (rears have solid bushes) and did not feel any difference. They were also a bitch to install cos the factory tolerances were already so tight.
Appreciate 0
      08-01-2019, 04:20 PM   #97
VictorH
Major
285
Rep
1,170
Posts

Drives: '09 M3
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: SC

iTrader: (4)

Another lesson learned today. Don't be like me.
Key point as you are reinstalling the diff, put the drive shaft into the receiver of the diff, you can actually start and insert the driveshaft Torx bolts as well. This is probably a "Everybody Knows that" (Geico type situation), but when I was initially installing the diff, I thought the driveshaft was affecting my ability to position the diff so I moved it out of the way. Once the diff is in (and of course torqued to spec) I just couldn't get the driveshaft to clear the flange on the diff to get inside so I could bolt it down. Big Mistake!

Don't waste your time (like I did) trying to loosen the center bearing mount, after removing the heat shield, it just doesn't help. Just buckle down, swallow your pride, and remove the diff, you just need to lower the diff a couple of inches and the driveshaft will drop right in. It's easier the second time, just think how much additional experience you're getting!
Appreciate 0
      08-01-2019, 07:40 PM   #98
tdott
Colonel
892
Rep
2,020
Posts

Drives: M3
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: South FL / 6ix

iTrader: (2)

Quote:
Originally Posted by VictorH View Post
Don't waste your time (like I did) trying to loosen the center bearing mount, after removing the heat shield, it just doesn't help. Just buckle down, swallow your pride, and remove the diff, you just need to lower the diff a couple of inches and the driveshaft will drop right in. It's easier the second time, just think how much additional experience you're getting!
Glad you got it in, that way definitely makes it easier without removing more stuff. But the DS can be removed/installed without lowering the diff. I think because you didn't have the front off is why you couldn't get the ds on with the diff in place.

Thanks for documenting this, I was happy to follow along.
Appreciate 0
      08-02-2019, 09:16 AM   #99
Richbot
Brigadier General
1694
Rep
4,775
Posts

Drives: Jerez Black E90
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: STL

iTrader: (5)

lol

This thread is gold Jerry
__________________
Appreciate 0
      08-02-2019, 06:10 PM   #100
VictorH
Major
285
Rep
1,170
Posts

Drives: '09 M3
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: SC

iTrader: (4)

It's my car's birthday! Well, a little bit late, delivery was in early July 2009. Got some new shocks to replace the RS-Two that I had before and were making some noise, particularly on hot days. Now received from JRZ their RS-Pro which is a mono-tube shock, the others were dual tube and probably a bit problematic in the somewhat heavy E90 M3. Installation a bit more complex with the reservoirs but hopefully a more durable shock.
Attached Images
   
Appreciate 0
      08-03-2019, 11:12 AM   #101
VictorH
Major
285
Rep
1,170
Posts

Drives: '09 M3
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: SC

iTrader: (4)

Quick tutorial on the e-brake reassembly

1) Wear gloves, it's messy
2) When you disassembled hopefully you left the top spring next to the adjuster in place to hold the brake shoes together.
3) If you have wheel studs now is the time to adjust the shoes a bit, as the adjustment through the lug bolt hole obviously is not available. I adjusted mine about a quarter turn out.
4) Put the assembly over the wheel hub and attach the trailing shoe (back of car) to the backing plate with the pin/spring retainer for the passenger side. You want to put the opposite shoe on of where the lever for the hand-brake cable goes. It will make sense when you see it. I think it was leading shoe on the driver's side (didn't do them at same time).
5) The pin/spring retainer is easy to compress with a 5 mm Allen wrench as it just fits into the middle. Though it seems that this should be easy, it's somewhat difficult to line up and it will take multiple tries and this is the easy side. Once you get it in, look from the side to make sure the blade part of the pin is now 90 degrees to the slot. You don't want it to pop out.
6) Next take the brake cable lever, put the claw-part of the lever behind the cable end and then insert the lever into the back shoe first and then the front shoe.
7) Now the frustrating part. If you inclined to use colorful language when you get frustrated get ready to use most of that vocabulary. For some reason the second shoe retaining pin is just a total bugger to get in. You'll look through the shoe, see the slot right behind it, but when you go to place the pin, if it's not just perfect, it won't go in. Just keep trying, looking, lining up and try again until it goes.
8) Second to last step- putting in the lower spring. Now one lesson I have learned from working on old cars with rusty bolts and frozen parts or anytime you will have to apply a lot of force, is first think about how many ways you can hurt yourself. All my really good bang-ups have been when things have let go or the tool slipped off and I didn't think about what my hand would smash into. This spring is really tight so be careful. You don't want to cut your hand on the backing plate or hit something else solid with your hand.
I used a good sized pair of needle nose pliers, used the brake cable mechanism for some leverage and was able to get the spring in on the second or third try.
9) Last step is to put the brake cable retaining clip in from the back-side, tighten and then you are good to go. Reinstall the rotor and brake caliper and you're all set.
Attached Images
     
Appreciate 0
      08-03-2019, 11:15 AM   #102
VictorH
Major
285
Rep
1,170
Posts

Drives: '09 M3
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: SC

iTrader: (4)

Rest of pictures for the tutorial, with finished e-brake assembly. There may be other more effective approaches but this one is reasonable and seems to work.
Attached Images
    
Appreciate 0
      08-03-2019, 01:10 PM   #103
VictorH
Major
285
Rep
1,170
Posts

Drives: '09 M3
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: SC

iTrader: (4)

One other item. If you find that the rotor won't go on, first loosen the adjuster that you just tightened. In my car cranking it all the way did nothing and I just couldn't shift the brake shoe assembly around much, so...
I had to remove the retaining pin on the offending side, jiggle things around, put the pin back in, then check to see that the rotor goes on okay. At that point re-adjust the brake shoe adjuster, be reasonable and then reassemble.
Appreciate 0
      08-06-2019, 06:32 AM   #104
drrust
First Lieutenant
drrust's Avatar
122
Rep
387
Posts

Drives: E90 M3 DCT Sedan
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Cincinnati

iTrader: (0)

Thanks for documenting all of the work you did. I am nearing the point where I'm considering tackling this job.
Appreciate 0
      08-07-2019, 09:42 AM   #105
Richbot
Brigadier General
1694
Rep
4,775
Posts

Drives: Jerez Black E90
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: STL

iTrader: (5)

I need to hire a teenager to download the entrire DIY forum and print the pictures
__________________
Appreciate 0
      08-11-2019, 03:08 PM   #106
VictorH
Major
285
Rep
1,170
Posts

Drives: '09 M3
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: SC

iTrader: (4)

Just back from a road trip so car has been sitting for a week.
In the home stretch, but not to discourage anyone, I'm starting to wonder if this project overall, is more involved that doing the rod bearings?
It's mostly my slow pace that has kept my car out of commission for such a long time.
Rear shocks and springs are now in, but now I have to find a nitrogen supply and shock reservoir pressure measuring system.
Next steps
1) Bleed brakes
2) Reinstall the fender liners
3) Reinstall rear muffler
4) Check toe with toe plates to be followed up by checking toe and camber (that one really shouldn't change) at alignment shop.
5) Figure out how to mount shock reservoirs after I find N2 supply and gauge (Dogbone/Gabe has provided some good ideas).

Getting there, hopefully back on the road soon.
Attached Images
    
Appreciate 0
      08-12-2019, 11:37 AM   #107
Richbot
Brigadier General
1694
Rep
4,775
Posts

Drives: Jerez Black E90
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: STL

iTrader: (5)

I can't ship the bottle, but if you'd like my regulator, Penske shock tool and hose I used with my old MCS setup, PM me. I can box it up for you and you can pick up a small N2 bottle at a weld supply shop with a cart.
__________________
Appreciate 0
      08-12-2019, 05:06 PM   #108
VictorH
Major
285
Rep
1,170
Posts

Drives: '09 M3
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: SC

iTrader: (4)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Richbot View Post
I can't ship the bottle, but if you'd like my regulator, Penske shock tool and hose I used with my old MCS setup, PM me. I can box it up for you and you can pick up a small N2 bottle at a weld supply shop with a cart.
Remember the old days when they said, "You meet the nicest people on a Honda." It's still true, they are just now on the bimmer forums. Thank you, PM forthcoming.
Appreciate 0
      08-20-2019, 05:31 PM   #109
VictorH
Major
285
Rep
1,170
Posts

Drives: '09 M3
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: SC

iTrader: (4)

My Good Friend is Back on the Road Again!!

After more than a month of being out of commission, my good friend is back on the road again. It's like a really nice pair of gloves or your favorite jeans, the car is just such a good familiar friend and feels so comfortable.

Could have tested yesterday but it turns out my nitrogen bottle had a frozen valve and I couldn't open it even with pliers. Gas supplier exchanged it for a good bottle. Filling reservoirs not difficult at all. As has been said by others you can't go by the regulator pressure as it has to be set 25-30 psi higher than what you want at the shock. Nonetheless was able to get both reservoirs right at 250 PSI.

So, the road report, this is only Part 1 after a 20 mile shake-down run.
1) The solid sub-frame bushings- On the road for regular driving I am unable to detect any difference in noise, vibration or really anything else for that matter. I'm not going to push it on the road, so we'll wait until my next track event which is Road Atlanta the second weekend of September. Track report will follow.

2) Purple differential bushings- Only minor changes. So at speeds under 50 mph you can't really tell any difference. When you get to 51, 52 mph you hear this slight noise coming from the rear, but your not sure what it is. At 54-55 mph you know for sure it's a slight diff whine. I'm not sure it's fair to say it's slight, you know what it is and it's noticeable over the road noise. I've heard a lot worse, but you won't mistake it. It's still noticeable at 60 mph, but didn't go higher as I'm on secondary roads doing the shake down.

Overall, super happy to be back on the road again and I think my alignment is still good but will check total toe with a set of toe plates, check the underside one more time (I have to adjust the shock hose on the passenger side, noted it wasn't able to slide with suspension movement while I was at the gas station filling up) and then have my local alignment shop do a check of the rear toe and camber.

Special Thanks to Richbot for supplying very reasonably priced regulator, hose and shock reservoir filling tool. Thank you!
Attached Images
  
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:59 PM.




m3post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST