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      07-12-2017, 12:09 AM   #705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KawBoy View Post
I hope it helps.
Thanks a lot. I figured it out from the first picture. I initially thought you were somehow able to take out the large shaft to clean and lube.

Looks like it allows you to freely move the shaft to differentiate from the butterflies. I'll give this a try on the weekend. Still deciding between using RZ-50 dry lube or 30 weight gun oil.
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      07-12-2017, 12:51 PM   #706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohhgourami View Post
Thanks a lot. I figured it out from the first picture. I initially thought you were somehow able to take out the large shaft to clean and lube.

Looks like it allows you to freely move the shaft to differentiate from the butterflies. I'll give this a try on the weekend. Still deciding between using RZ-50 dry lube or 30 weight gun oil.
Once you disconnect the rods, you can move TBs and shafts freely. It will be easy to precisely locate the source of that noise.

You can remove the shaft if you like, but I would not even touch any of those screws. The process to reset the TB and shafts is just unbelievable, it really is a mess.
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      07-12-2017, 01:25 PM   #707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fasternfaster View Post
Has anyone else tried these?! I recently had my TA crap out and i ordered and installed the gears from OdometerGears per their instructions which are not very good...

DO NOT do what they say to get the "bearing" seated. i did exactly what they said and ended up snapping the threads off the shaft! i thought i was done for since i had already pinned the gear to the shaft and i didnt have another lucky for me i thought of simply tack welding the arm to the nub of the shaft that was still sticking out. I paid a local body shop $20 to tack it in place.

There is a better way to seat the giant washer/bearing to the shaft. it includes a vice and a few properly placed hammer strikes on the side with the gear, just make sure you dont hit the gear!!!


Now here is my BIG PROBLEM with OdometerGears.. 2 months after the fix.. everything was working great.. then all of a sudden one of the actuators failed!

the codes were saying something about a return spring not working etc.

Once i took the plenum off and tried to cycle the throttles by hand, i could immediately feel that one of the TA was not being engaged internally and then i felt that the shaft with the arm was simply sliding out of the actuator.. this is what pinning the gear is supposed to prevent.

I took the actuator apart and found my new OdometerGears gear shattered into 4 pieces with the pin sheared, half in the shaft half just bouncing around!!!

It became obvious to me that the material or construction or pinning mechanism led to this failure. This gear needs to be much more beefy to be mounted this way.

lucky for me i had a spare TA body with the original gear on the shaft so i just stuck that in and was good to go for a while, but i wanted to get my now broken TA fixed up so i could have another replacement ready

I was just going to order another gear set from Odometergears since what choice to i really have!? until i saw these gears on ebay.. they looked beefy! and they come premounted on a shaft! WIN/WIN..

i ordered these and installed them into my TA, but i have not tried it out since my car is all put back together and just waiting for the next fail I expect that the other gear will probably crack/shatter soon too. I will add pictures later for dramatic effect.

My experience with the brass gears from UK.
1. Bought 2 sets
2. Replaced OEM gears in both actuators with the brass gears.
3. Still got an error code one bank and re-checked them carefully.
4. Swapped them to isolate the bad one
5. Purchased a brand new actuator from BMW to replace
6. So I had a new OEM and brass rebuild actuator set.
7. 1 or so, the brass rebuild fails (metal stem spins in the gear)
8. Replaced it with the other brass set
9. Less than 2 years as of yesterday, my cars throws p161F P161F [Thottle valve actuator spring test malfunction during opening (Bank 2)].
10. My assumption is that actuator with the brass rebuild is the one that failed.

Car seemed to start having actuator problems on the hottest of days recently and start going downhill from there. Perhaps the brass heated and contracted and expanded.

Would I recommend the brass? No.
Will I do the odometer gears? Later
What am I going to do about this now? I am going to order from FCP, new gears. Later I will order the odometer gear rebuild kit because I expect the OEM one to fail soon just because 'it just seems to fail'.
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      07-12-2017, 02:26 PM   #708
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Hey guys I'm new in the forum and just bought my first 08 E90 M3 with 50k miles. The ptevious owner said he had replaced both throttle actuators which made me choose that specific M3.

Anyways it's been 4 weeks since I've owned the car and 1000 miles later and ice done/noticed the following.

1. Fresh oil change and send out the oil for analysis to check for rod bearing symptoms. ( still waiting on results )

2. The transmission seems very clunky in reverse and also in 1st and 2nd gear. When it's in neutral it also makes this fluttering noise you can hear but only in neutral with the clutch released.
I've read that this is normal and also it was confirmed by a BMW tech. Eitherway I'm still going to change the transmission oil next week and see if that helps shift things better.

3. I put 2 new tires up front a week ago and when I went to start the car it through th3 check engine light along with DSC light and brake light on and went on limp mode. I went out to autozone and the code that came up showed a throttle actuator which I thought was odd. I reset the system and it drove fine for about 2 weeks before the dash lit up again with all the same codes one morning. I turned the car off and waited 5 minutes and then turned it back on and everything was fine.

I decided to bring it to a BMW specialist in the area and see if his very expensive reader can tell me if my actuator is going or any other issue it might have. He told me that my actuator in bank 1 is going so I'm going to have that done next week.

4. There's been 3 times in the morning when I've started the car and it's made this loud whining noise from what seems like the belt. It goes away after it's warmed up but the belt seems fine. It's a 9 year old car so I figured I'll change the belt as well next week.
Does anybody have any input if I should go on and change it or if it might be a different problem and not the belt?


Any advice is appreciated!
Thanks in advance!
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      07-13-2017, 02:07 PM   #709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greekplaya020 View Post
Hey guys I'm new in the forum and just bought my first 08 E90 M3 with 50k miles. The ptevious owner said he had replaced both throttle actuators which made me choose that specific M3.

Anyways it's been 4 weeks since I've owned the car and 1000 miles later and ice done/noticed the following.

1. Fresh oil change and send out the oil for analysis to check for rod bearing symptoms. ( still waiting on results )

2. The transmission seems very clunky in reverse and also in 1st and 2nd gear. When it's in neutral it also makes this fluttering noise you can hear but only in neutral with the clutch released.
I've read that this is normal and also it was confirmed by a BMW tech. Eitherway I'm still going to change the transmission oil next week and see if that helps shift things better.

3. I put 2 new tires up front a week ago and when I went to start the car it through th3 check engine light along with DSC light and brake light on and went on limp mode. I went out to autozone and the code that came up showed a throttle actuator which I thought was odd. I reset the system and it drove fine for about 2 weeks before the dash lit up again with all the same codes one morning. I turned the car off and waited 5 minutes and then turned it back on and everything was fine.

I decided to bring it to a BMW specialist in the area and see if his very expensive reader can tell me if my actuator is going or any other issue it might have. He told me that my actuator in bank 1 is going so I'm going to have that done next week.

4. There's been 3 times in the morning when I've started the car and it's made this loud whining noise from what seems like the belt. It goes away after it's warmed up but the belt seems fine. It's a 9 year old car so I figured I'll change the belt as well next week.
Does anybody have any input if I should go on and change it or if it might be a different problem and not the belt?


Any advice is appreciated!
Thanks in advance!
While you change the TVA, the plenum has to come off so you'll have plenty of access to see the condition of the belts. Mine looked OK so I didn't bother.

Also consider doing your spark plugs at the same time if you don't know when they were last changed. I personally prefer to do it with plenum off because the 2 rear ones are kind of a pain to get to, so the extra space is welcomed.
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      07-15-2017, 11:20 AM   #710
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Originally Posted by L4ces View Post
Thank goodness for this DYI and folks who've crafted replacement gears. I am going to try replacing the gears to see how that goes. Believe it or not I am stuck at simply disconnecting some connectors. I've been working with bad lighting at night and have managed to get most of the connectors apart.

I don't want to break any wires or clips so I annoyed the pic and added arrows to the clips I am concerned with. Where should I press and which direction I should pull?


Attachment 1102685


Got it. The round end is just a cap to cover the wires. Just pull or pry with a screw driver. It will pop off. I think I have a better sense for how unfamiliar connectors come apart as well as what might be an end cover for wires (like an elbow cap).

Anyway i got bank one out.

Attachment 1102764
Well, here I go.

2014 ----------
It was 2014 that I did my first two actuators.
One was purchased full price (rebuild with new brass gears still failed)
The other was rebuilt with brass gears.

2016 --------
Actuator with bras gears failed.
Fixed it with the other brass gear set from my purchase in 2014.


2017 -------
Throttle actuator failure
Checkin now to see which one failed (new or brass rebuild).

Stay tuned.

Ok. The failed actuator is the rebuilt one. The metal rod spins inside the gear! I am not sure if this gear was part of the set of gears I purchased.
In the attached picture, the rental rod the goes into the gear at the right of the diagram, spins .
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      07-26-2017, 01:19 PM   #711
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nleeumd View Post
Anyone know how I can get the DIY with the photos? Seems like its missing when trying to perform this DIY on page 1
Photos are back up! Sorry it took so long.
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      07-27-2017, 02:00 PM   #712
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Just to follow up I've put about 1500 (fairly hard) miles on my odometer gear rebuild/shaft cleaning and no issues so far. I did have the presence of mind to use a little epoxy on the half gear to shaft interface in addition to pinning it before it was called for. Seems like the right call now that they've changed their install directions for this portion.
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      09-07-2017, 10:19 PM   #713
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Many thanks to W///, the RDDC youtube video, and the other inciteful advice in this thread - i was able to rebuild both banks.

I bought an 08 6MT in feb that now has 83k on it. I threw my first DSC/Check Engine codes a month or so ago, but they cleared on restart. Happened again as i was on my way to the dealership to finally get the Takata airbag replaced, and they diagnosed it as bank 2 actuator failure.

I bought the i6 gears from ukar after deciding the $100 gamble/bank was worth it, even with the FCP price down to 650 per actuator. Following the steps here, getting the actuators out was no problem. My bank 2 actuator showed 1 mosfet that looks like it may be on its way out, so time will tell if i caught it in time. The original gears were definitely showing their age... After reading this thread, I'm very suprised they were original.

I am definitely a pretty novice mechanic, so i ended up pulling the actuators a couple of times before i got the rebuild right. This involved several days of driving in limp mode, which is physically painful. What got me over the hump was a passing point made in the OdometerGears video. It is crucial to allow a little play in the 1/2 gear by allowing the press-fit washer to sit ~1mm from the TA housing. I had originally hammered it down so that it was pretty tight to the housing. I think this is why my first attempts resulted in permanent limp-mode.

Thanks all
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      09-07-2017, 10:46 PM   #714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BurSco View Post
Many thanks to W///, the RDDC youtube video, and the other inciteful advice in this thread - i was able to rebuild both banks.

I bought an 08 6MT in feb that now has 83k on it. I threw my first DSC/Check Engine codes a month or so ago, but they cleared on restart. Happened again as i was on my way to the dealership to finally get the Takata airbag replaced, and they diagnosed it as bank 2 actuator failure.

I bought the i6 gears from ukar after deciding the $100 gamble/bank was worth it, even with the FCP price down to 650 per actuator. Following the steps here, getting the actuators out was no problem. My bank 2 actuator showed 1 mosfet that looks like it may be on its way out, so time will tell if i caught it in time. The original gears were definitely showing their age... After reading this thread, I'm very suprised they were original.
Did you enquire with the dealer about goodwill warranty? Both mine were covered out of warranty since this is a known issue.
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      09-09-2017, 02:56 PM   #715
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Ugh, I bought 2 new actuators off FCP Euro and I am still getting 2B15 and CDC0 codes. I pulled the battery and had it checked at autozone. They said it's 96% to my surprise since I know its at least 4 years old. I cleaned my linkages a bit when I changed the actuators. They feel okay when I move them by hand. Any ideas anyone? I suppose the new actuators could be dead on arrival but seems unlikely. I notice the car doesn't start as easily now. Sometimes it takes two presses now. One code is governor monitoring and the other is the CAN error. I cleared them multiple times with bmw gt1 dis.
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      09-09-2017, 07:14 PM   #716
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It's possible you have throttle position sensor faults. I think the new actuators are fine. Try clearing all adaption as well as clearing the codes.
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      09-10-2017, 01:55 PM   #717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
It's possible you have throttle position sensor faults. I think the new actuators are fine. Try clearing all adaption as well as clearing the codes.
Hey thanks for the suggestion. I Reset the adaption for the throttle valve. Nothing changed though. The troubleshooting guide in the DIS wants me to check the CAN lines and the power supply to throttle actuators. Maybe I need a new relay or worse a DME. I notice now both actuators fail the system test in the test schedule of the DIS. I am leaning towards it's probably the DME that has gone bad because I get code FFFF too which is CANSYS. Actually there is a bunch of random codes. see attachment
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      09-10-2017, 04:43 PM   #718
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I doubt it's the DME. I would try to keep clearing codes and see if it goes away. I assume everything got reconnected properly. I had some of those codes suggesting more issues than the TA.
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      09-10-2017, 05:19 PM   #719
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yea I am in no hurry to buy a DME... the DIS makes it seem like a reprogram of the current DME might help. I wonder where the voltage supply of the throttle actuator comes from other than the battery, because it lists that as something to check.
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      09-10-2017, 07:25 PM   #720
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I suppose you could have screwed something up putting the car back together. Did not connect a connector or connect it tightly enough, or a hose, or a intake manifold runner did not seat in the boot.

So you are clearing codes, resetting adaption, driving the car? And the code is returning immediately? Or intermittently?
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      09-10-2017, 08:39 PM   #721
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yea that is always a possibility. It's on my list to take it apart again and check for bent connector pins and all and reconnect everything again. I can run a system test on each actuator and although they fail some of the checks, they pass others and I can hear them move with my ears. I think I read somewhere that the CAN bus error means that the DSC and/or DME didn't get a replay on the CAN bus from that actuator, implying that it's not "alive". I drove the car after I installed the actuators for a long drive to try and see if it would work itself out somehow. I didn't drive it after resetting the adaptations, I only let it idle in the garage. I swore I have seen the actuators pass the system testin it's entirety at least once before but they definitely don't anymore. They fail more tests then the bad ones I took out of there were failing at this point.

It appears I can clear the throttle actuator codes if I do it individually but when I try to clear the DSC code they all seem come back or something. Basically, it's 100% limp mode if you try and drive it.

If taking apart and reconnecting don't work, I was going to swap actuators from bank to bank to see if the error codes swap banks or not. Kinda wanted to do a bit of digging on the net to see if someone else has this problem and there's some other fix I am not aware of. The only one I saw who had the same codes said he opened up the throttle actuator and fixed the gears inside to fix it. I shouldn't have to do that with a fresh actuator though.

I was wondering about new throttle actuator firmware with really old 2007-2008 DME/DSC firmware....how well those would get along

Also I get a lot of "temporary disturbances on the bus" when I am using the DIS. It's always kinda been like that but it seems like it has gotten worse recently. Not sure if others have had the same experience.
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      09-10-2017, 10:14 PM   #722
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I think you were right, I took it all apart and put it back together and codes are gone! no limp mode! probably didn't get the bank 2 connector on all the way or something the first time.
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      09-11-2017, 07:00 AM   #723
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I would still clear any stored codes and reset all adaptions. I went through the same thing and actually opened up that wire tray and tested every actuator related wire I could, at least as well as I could test it. But my problem was not any wire. It was an actuator that was still bad after replacing the gears. This is when I learned that replacing the gears is a hit or miss. I have 4 actuators on which I replaced gears, and 2 of them were failing when the gears were replaced. 1 works, 1 worked for about 18 months before failing recently, and 2 did not work. Actuator prices are down now. Just buy a new actuator, which is what I did when one of my rebuilts recently failed. I would bother with the gears only as a preventative maintenance matter -- if I had 50-100k miles and no actuator issues and some time to kill, I might rebuild them. If mine was failing, I probably would not bother.
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      09-11-2017, 01:47 PM   #724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drummer20 View Post
I think you were right, I took it all apart and put it back together and codes are gone! no limp mode! probably didn't get the bank 2 connector on all the way or something the first time.
My dumb ass didn't clip the main connector for bank 2 hard enough to make a solid contact, so the code stayed on. Had to take all the stuff on and off a couple of times.

Hopefullly that's all it is for you too
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      09-11-2017, 08:23 PM   #725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
I would still clear any stored codes and reset all adaptions. I went through the same thing and actually opened up that wire tray and tested every actuator related wire I could, at least as well as I could test it. But my problem was not any wire. It was an actuator that was still bad after replacing the gears. This is when I learned that replacing the gears is a hit or miss. I have 4 actuators on which I replaced gears, and 2 of them were failing when the gears were replaced. 1 works, 1 worked for about 18 months before failing recently, and 2 did not work. Actuator prices are down now. Just buy a new actuator, which is what I did when one of my rebuilts recently failed. I would bother with the gears only as a preventative maintenance matter -- if I had 50-100k miles and no actuator issues and some time to kill, I might rebuild them. If mine was failing, I probably would not bother.
Agreed, I cleared the codes with the DIS and they stayed gone for the first time. I am a little wary about clearing all the adaptions because many didn't seem to relate to the throttle actuator. What is your line of thinking in that respect?

I am not so sure about even doing the gears preventatively now. I did my preventatively at 38k miles last summer and my electronics failed at 45k anyways. It may be that I did them too late in the mileage count to make a difference. Also I was the guy who bought some ICs and even swapped out the 5 FETs and a few other easy to identify ICs (two voltage regulators) on my circuit board and it didn't fix my problem (Although now I wonder if I got that connector on all the way heh) I got two non working TAs with beautiful looking gears and bad electronics. One TA had the odometer gears and the other had the i6 and they failed a month or two apart.

But yea with TAs prices in the 544-650 range it doesn't seem worth it to do gears anymore given the extremely slim chances of a lasting solution. Somewhat ironically, it might be because of the aftermarket gears and electronics refurb shops that the TA prices finally came down.
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      09-11-2017, 08:57 PM   #726
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I clear adaptions periodically. My logic for doing it after replacing actuators is that other systems may have compensated while they were failing. But if you do nothing adaptions should adapt over time to where it should be.
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