Aw e92 m3 | te37sl blk2 | harrop

[DanMpower]

Awesome thread, this is right up my alley as I'm also a one-man show with 1 set of hands doing everything on my back. Sometimes the wife comes and lends a hand in the rare event I need someone to assist.

With the amount of DIY you do, you should invest in a set of QuickJacks. Probably the best investment I've ever done when working on my cars at home. You'll just feel safer underneath as well.

As far as exhaust swapping, I use this hydraulic table for all my exhaust work.


I roll it up behind the car, jack it up, release all the hangers and lower the whole system with one finger. Zero effort and works perfect!

[cchen9_]

Picked up an Akra Evo exhaust a few weeks back and already had plans to get a GT4 type midpipe made for it. The exorbitant pricing for the original piece is just not in my wheelhouse. I sent the original midpipe out to Jax Fab Shop in Florida to have them re-create a straight thru "GT4" style xpipe made entirely of titanium.

End result is a true slip-on replacement piece for the original Akra midpipe super easy to change out back to the Evo (why would you tho?) and weighing in at < 4lb which is a significant weight difference over the original.

Due to some time constraints, I had to have the piece back in a few days to attend Import Alliance, they were unable to fab the mounting brackets but will 100% be in the production piece. Planning to get more made for any Akra Evo owners who want that extra sound.

Jax Fab "GT4" midpipe

Whole system installed, did sink the tips in a bit after this photo. Fitment of course is 100%


Some photos from IA weekend. Rainy rainy but Saturday did clear up. Sunday was completely canceled due to rain all day, bummer.

[cchen9_]

Prob going to turn the boost up in the future. Decided to install w/m injection with summer coming up and track days this should help keep IATs down. W/M injection is awesome for blowers have a similar setup on my K series, had to have it on the M3.

Got AEMs kit really easy to put together, wiring and tubing was all more than enough to plumb it up.


First I found a good spot to drill and tap. Decided on the s/c inlet as it had thick walls to fit the nozzle perfectly flush.

Nozzle mounted.

Pump location chosen under the trunk panel.

Tank location driver side panel.

Indicator led fit real nice in the p3 gauge vent/grille.

Controller I velcro'd to the lower kick panel for easy access and removal.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by cchen9_

Prob going to turn the boost up in the future. Decided to install w/m injection with summer coming up and track days this should help keep IATs down. W/M injection is awesome for blowers have a similar setup on my K series, had to have it on the M3.

Got AEMs kit really easy to put together, wiring and tubing was all more than enough to plumb it up.


First I found a good spot to drill and tap. Decided on the s/c inlet as it had thick walls to fit the nozzle perfectly flush.

Nozzle mounted.

Pump location chosen under the trunk panel.

Tank location driver side panel.

Indicator led fit real nice in the p3 gauge vent/grille.

Controller I velcro'd to the lower kick panel for easy access and removal.

Let us know how you land. I did this exact thing (except installed in the rubber boot to avoid drilling the plenum). Did not find it helpful on track unfortunately. But you might find otherwise! Nice installation.

[cchen9_]

Originally Posted by DRLane

Let us know how you land. I did this exact thing (except installed in the rubber boot to avoid drilling the plenum). Did not find it helpful on track unfortunately. But you might find otherwise! Nice installation.

What size nozzle were you using? I'll definitely have to experiment but feel like once the blower is able to spin faster will see more benefits from this.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by cchen9_

What size nozzle were you using? I'll definitely have to experiment but feel like once the blower is able to spin faster will see more benefits from this.

In tried several. The standard 2 sizes that came (maybe 4 and 6?) with it standard and a couple of the smallest (I think sizes 1&2 in small). Btw I’m stage 2 pushing 8.5-9psi.

[RUG8RB8]

I would love to see your before and after IAT’s. I was getting ready to do this as well but was told it would basically be a waste of time. Even by Snow Performance engineer. He wants 8 individual nozzles post IC core and pre TB plate, which is ridiculously hard to achieve. His second but reluctant suggestion was to precisely calculate the spots directly above each TB pre-IC Core in the plenum roof so to speak. Drill and tap 8 spots for 90° nozzles if enough good clearance. He said this would be second best option, but up to 50% less effective than post IC Cores.

Please look at my post on the F1 Interchiller. I think this is the way to go and of course an Active E85 Tune using a ethanol percentage calculator.

[cchen9_]

Originally Posted by RUG8RB8

I would love to see your before and after IAT’s. I was getting ready to do this as well but was told it would basically be a waste of time. Even by Snow Performance engineer. He wants 8 individual nozzles post IC core and pre TB plate, which is ridiculously hard to achieve. His second but reluctant suggestion was to precisely calculate the spots directly above each TB pre-IC Core in the plenum roof so to speak. Drill and tap 8 spots for 90° nozzles if enough good clearance. He said this would be second best option, but up to 50% less effective than post IC Cores.

Please look at my post on the F1 Interchiller. I think this is the way to go and of course an Active E85 Tune using a ethanol percentage calculator.

Heard the same thing too, did it anyway lol. Should be able to take a good drive out and test this weekend. The problem I assumed with the 8 nozzle injection into the itb's is there's no way for the ecu to measure the real IAT since that would be post sensor. Tuning for it would be kinda difficult. I'm sure with enough time/money/effort you could make anything work but that's way more modification than I'd be willing to do to the car at this point.

[RUG8RB8]

Originally Posted by cchen9_

Heard the same thing too, did it anyway lol. Should be able to take a good drive out and test this weekend. The problem I assumed with the 8 nozzle injection into the itb's is there's no way for the ecu to measure the real IAT since that would be post sensor. Tuning for it would be kinda difficult. I'm sure with enough time/money/effort you could make anything work but that's way more modification than I'd be willing to do to the car at this point.

Please see all my other posts on IAT sensor and function. TBH, it is the one thing that is holding us back on the current Mike tune IMHO. I have made so many logs now and used 4 different sensors. The location is terrible. At cold startup in morning after sitting all night in sub40° temps it reads 67° after maybe 10 seconds with ambient at 33°. Zero chance this is accurate. On dyno session the other day with 34° ambient I am reading 95°F Pre pull, 110-135 after threee pulls. Then on the way home was lucky enough to get 10-12 miles of no traffic freeway. I held boost about 1.5-2.0 psi and tried to get IAT’s to drop below 100°, nope not even in 36° ambient. This is terrible, I have many like 8 turbo cars and each has stand-alone with logging. None, not one has IAT temps like this. Sorry, venting a bit here.

[DrFerry]

Could it be possible to relocate the IAT sensor to one of the Individual Throttle Bodies in an attempt to reduce the IAT reading error? I'm assuming that the OEM IAT sensor in question is in good working order.

[cchen9_]

Originally Posted by RUG8RB8

Please see all my other posts on IAT sensor and function. TBH, it is the one thing that is holding us back on the current Mike tune IMHO. I have made so many logs now and used 4 different sensors. The location is terrible. At cold startup in morning after sitting all night in sub40° temps it reads 67° after maybe 10 seconds with ambient at 33°. Zero chance this is accurate. On dyno session the other day with 34° ambient I am reading 95°F Pre pull, 110-135 after threee pulls. Then on the way home was lucky enough to get 10-12 miles of no traffic freeway. I held boost about 1.5-2.0 psi and tried to get IAT’s to drop below 100°, nope not even in 36° ambient. This is terrible, I have many like 8 turbo cars and each has stand-alone with logging. None, not one has IAT temps like this. Sorry, venting a bit here.

Yeah I was looking closer at the IAT sensor placement when installing the w/m and it does look to be in an odd position. I'm not sure if mine reads that odd though but I'll admit I probably don't watch it as close as you. Seems weird... will def keep my eye on it.

It's also a effin bitch to remove the thing I remember taking it out of the stock plenum was a chore. Gave up on trying to pull it out of the s/c didn't want to break it. Ideally the sensor would be post IC core to read the most accurate "cooled" air charge temps, and it does look like they designed the placement there at least from looking at it from the outside.

[RUG8RB8]

[QUOTE=DrFerry;30009466]Could it be possible to relocate the IAT sensor to one of the Individual Throttle Bodies in an attempt to reduce the IAT reading error? I'm assuming that the OEM IAT sensor in question is in good working order.

Mark, the factory sensor is OK, but not a really good unit. It is slow response compared to many others, placement is terrible IMHO. Yes, Ideally the proper location would be Pre ITB butterfly plate and post IC on a middle cylinder. I am researching this now, ironically similar to proper WMI nozzle location.

[cchen9_]

When you said you tried 4 different sensors, assuming those were all OEM type? Would be nice to try a faster aftermarket sensor for example the T1, but not sure if it is even possible to scale it properly so the ECU knows wtf it's looking at.

[RUG8RB8]

Originally Posted by cchen9_

When you said you tried 4 different sensors, assuming those were all OEM type? Would be nice to try a faster aftermarket sensor for example the T1, but not sure if it is even possible to scale it properly so the ECU knows wtf it's looking at.

Yes, all four OEM, all slightly different but none were good.