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      10-16-2019, 08:22 AM   #1387
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Originally Posted by dogbone View Post
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Originally Posted by ThunderMoose View Post
Great write up. You really need to get car classed for TT1 and run at least two weekends with SoCal region next year. Nationals will be in Utah.
Thanks.

Since you know where Nationals are in 2020, is the 2020 schedule posted already? I looked briefly but didn't see anything for 2020.

I have slowly been working towards NASA. I completed my TT check ride and participated in one TT in Colorado with my E92 street car. I need one more event for my full license. Then, I need to confirm that my E90 can get into TT1.
You just need to add weight to your E90. Get a dyno to calc your average hp and then figure out if you want to run slicks or DOT's. Honestly I have driven sticker pirellis and they are no faster than sticker A7's on my car at least. Plus Hoosier has a nice contingency while Pirelli doesn't yet in NASA so if you play your cards right youll only buy one set of tires all year. After that you just add (or subtract weight) to get to 6:1.

2020 regional schedules aren't out yet. They announced next years championship location at this years championships.

Here's a link to my write up from Nationals

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=610136
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      10-16-2019, 10:04 AM   #1388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderMoose View Post
You just need to add weight to your E90. Get a dyno to calc your average hp and then figure out if you want to run slicks or DOT's. Honestly I have driven sticker pirellis and they are no faster than sticker A7's on my car at least. Plus Hoosier has a nice contingency while Pirelli doesn't yet in NASA so if you play your cards right youll only buy one set of tires all year. After that you just add (or subtract weight) to get to 6:1.

2020 regional schedules aren't out yet. They announced next years championship location at this years championships.

Here's a link to my write up from Nationals

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=610136
I really enjoyed your write up!! It really sucks about that incorrect intake cam.....blah. And I wish there was video of your legs sticking out while you’re yelling for help. If I were there, I definitely would have stood there and taken video before I helped you!! Hahahahaha (just kidding.....I would have stood there and taken video the whole time and made someone else help you). JUST KIDDING!!

Anyway, congrats on a great win. You know, I really understand that hesitation to run new tires when things don’t count for the official results. But you don’t want to handicap yourself to save the tires. It’s definitely a dilemma.

I will continue to investigate NASA for 2020. I’ve already been looking into intelligent ways to add weight to the car. I’m getting carbon doors made for the car. I have a feeling I will have to put the stock doors back on for NASA to make TT1. As I understand it, you can only add 250lbs to a car to stay in a class right?
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      10-16-2019, 01:29 PM   #1389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogbone View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderMoose View Post
You just need to add weight to your E90. Get a dyno to calc your average hp and then figure out if you want to run slicks or DOT's. Honestly I have driven sticker pirellis and they are no faster than sticker A7's on my car at least. Plus Hoosier has a nice contingency while Pirelli doesn't yet in NASA so if you play your cards right youll only buy one set of tires all year. After that you just add (or subtract weight) to get to 6:1.

2020 regional schedules aren't out yet. They announced next years championship location at this years championships.

Here's a link to my write up from Nationals

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=610136
I really enjoyed your write up!! It really sucks about that incorrect intake cam.....blah. And I wish there was video of your legs sticking out while you're yelling for help. If I were there, I definitely would have stood there and taken video before I helped you!! Hahahahaha (just kidding.....I would have stood there and taken video the whole time and made someone else help you). JUST KIDDING!!

Anyway, congrats on a great win. You know, I really understand that hesitation to run new tires when things don't count for the official results. But you don't want to handicap yourself to save the tires. It's definitely a dilemma.

I will continue to investigate NASA for 2020. I've already been looking into intelligent ways to add weight to the car. I'm getting carbon doors made for the car. I have a feeling I will have to put the stock doors back on for NASA to make TT1. As I understand it, you can only add 250lbs to a car to stay in a class right?
250 pounds is the limit but you should be able to work around this. I run stock battery for example. That's not considered ballast but serves the same purpose. Cool shirt chest is another 25 pounds.
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      10-22-2019, 08:18 PM   #1390
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For those of you who have installed the Slon DCT oil pan, how long do I need to wait after bolting on the pan before I can start to fill the DCT fluid? I'm using the recommended Loctite 574 and left it to cure overnight after bolting on the pan. But this morning, the Loctite was still wet (on the outside of the pan) so I'm concerned it's not cured yet.

Please advise. Thanks.
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      10-22-2019, 09:21 PM   #1391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redd View Post
For those of you who have installed the Slon DCT oil pan, how long do I need to wait after bolting on the pan before I can start to fill the DCT fluid? I'm using the recommended Loctite 574 and left it to cure overnight after bolting on the pan. But this morning, the Loctite was still wet (on the outside of the pan) so I'm concerned it's not cured yet.

Please advise. Thanks.
On our install, we waited about an hour for the Loctite set.

A gasket maker actually bonds in the ABSENCE of air. So, the stuff on the outside is not an indicator of what is going on in the bonding area between the mating surfaces.

If you're curious, here's a pdf, that talks about it: Loctite 574 info

Anyway, since you let it sit overnight, you should be more than fine.

After 1.5 years on the car, my pan still is dry on the edges---no leaking. We just looked at it a month or so ago. Man, that OEM pan was ALWAYS wet......

I made some other notes about the install on Posts #714 and #715 on this page: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=23083521

Check them out. It has some small tips on filling the trans with extra fluid, which is important.
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      10-23-2019, 11:42 AM   #1392
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With the thought of participating in Super Lap Battle in mid-November, I’ve been busy trying to get the car back into proper shape.

All 4 corners of the suspension are being rebuilt and should hopefully be done today. The car will then go to EAS to look at the brake booster. We’ve ordered a bunch of parts—a new brake booster and some lines—so hopefully we can settle whatever is going on there.

If all goes well, I will get the car back Thursday evening. I want to test the car out and see how it feels before SLB, so I am shooting for going to a track on Friday. Willow Springs and Buttonwillow both have Test and Tune days. Buttonwillow is running config #25CW, which is fine. Originally, I was just going to go to WSIR because it’s closer, but maybe I should get some laps at Buttonwillow. Would make more sense since I haven’t been there in many months.

Anyway, I’m in LA for work stuff this week so it all works out to also deal with the car. Annnnd, I got of Denver a few hours before 6-10” snow is about to hit today!! Phew!
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      10-27-2019, 07:39 PM   #1393
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Well, it was quite a busy week with the E90.

The largest item on the to-do list was finalizing the suspension rebuild. Rob at Chewerks reported back that BOTH rear shocks were blown. One of them wasn't doing any compression damping at all and the other was doing a little damping. One damper leaked and you could see the results on the floor of the trailer. The other blew the seals internally between the nitrogen and the oil in the reservoir, so you didn't see any leaking, but it was not functioning correctly......they were a mess. The rear rebound damping was still working. The fronts were still working within spec. The fluid was a little dirty, but they were still functioning properly. (He did before and after shock dynos to confirm.)

The plan was to have the rebuild, re-install and alignment finished by this past Wednesday and I was very happy that Chewerks got it done on schedule. This allowed the car to be towed to European Auto Source Wednesday afternoon to start looking at the brake booster situation.

Once the car arrived at EAS, Steve and the crew jumped on it right away. And they found a blown fuse that connects to the vacuum pump. I guess when the wires frayed, the fuse blew. They cleaned up the wiring, dealt with the fuse and decided that the pump did not need replacing. That was easier than I thought it would be. Phew.

So, the car was ready for pickup on Thursday. This allowed me to go to the track on Friday to test the car out. If Super Lap Battle is in my future, I did not want the first time I drove the car to be at SLB. I decided to go to Buttonwillow. They were hosting a Test and Tune day running config 25CW. Figured that would be more useful than going to Willow Springs’ Test and Tune day. And I’m glad I made that decision because on Friday morning, they closed the 14 Freeway on the way to Willow Springs due to brush fires…..so, off to Buttonwillow on Friday AM.

The weather at Buttonwillow was starting nicely in the 60s, but it was going to 90ºF. I had decent tires on the car to start. Of course, I was very curious how the car would feel after the suspension rebuild. The first order of business was to get gas. I had not adjusted any suspension settings yet. I knew the settings were random after the rebuild and that I would need to put them back where I like them. But it was interesting to feel the car on the random settings as I drove to get gas. It was really jittery. Turns out that the random settings had the rebound quite high. Upon returning to the trailer, I immediately jumped onto the task of adjusting the dampers with my settings. Oh my gosh, just driving to the pit lane, the car felt smooth as butter. I never cease to be amazed at how much damper settings can alter the feeling.

Hehe another interesting note after the rebuild. I’ve had plenty of alignments done over the years at different places. Most of my alignments are pretty down and dirty. Toss the car on a laser rig and get it done quick. So, I was prepping to go out on track, and I was checking the pressures of the cold Pirelli DH tires——and they were at 32 psi…….I was like WUT!? The last time I touched the tires was for the PCA time trial two weeks ago when it was 90ºF. These cold tires in 60ºF temps should have had like 18 psi in them. I was sitting there wondering how the heck that possible. I checked, and all 4 tires were at 32 psi…..and then it occurred to me——Chewerks pumped up the tires for the alignment. Cool! Nobody has ever done that in 7 years!

So, I get out on track and it takes two seconds to determine that the suspension feels great. My old JRZ settings that I had settled on many years ago felt spot on to me. And once I got the brakes and tires up to temp, it took just a couple brake presses to determine that the brakes were fine too. Yay! So, I jumped harder on the car and was happy with how it felt.

So, I am very happy with the suspension rebuild. Chewerks made my life soooooo much easier. I asked Rob if dropping off my car with him and leaving it was a one-time thing or that was standard business. He said it’s standard business. Excellent. He mentioned that JRZ recommends around 40 track days or 2 years between rebuilds. I will stick with that. And I was also happy to learn that Chewerks uses JRZ’s shock fluid for the rebuilds. And the fee for the job was reasonable.

I’ve never driven Buttonwillow config 25CW before, so———I’m thrilled to report that I ran a new personal best! Hahahaha I ran a 1:49.2 in the first session. The time is fine, but I know I can do better. I had a better lap in the 1:48’s going in session #2, but didn’t get Star Mazda correct and lost it. I had to pass two cars on that lap and got distracted. Then, as the heat set in by 11:30, it was pretty clear that going faster would be impossible.

How is 25CW? It’s fine. It skips Bus Stop, and skips Sweeper to go down to Star Mazda. To me, Bus Stop is about the most challenging part of Buttonwillow, so skipping it kinda makes the track a bit more boring——just going straight after Cotton Corners is not challenging at all. The only thing you need to sort out is braking as you turn into Riverside. And Star Mazda is fine….I prefer Sweeper.

Here’s my fast lap:


So, was that it? No! Of course not. I had to make the day more difficult!

The first technical thing I did was change out my lug nuts to 19mm lug nuts. For some reason lately, my 17mm lug nuts have been getting stuck in my socket when I use the impact gun to take them off. Sometimes it’s so stuck, I have to gun the nut all the back down onto the wheel and tension it a bit to get it to release. It’s been happening quite a bit and I’ve tried different sockets with the same results…… So annoying. I got some 19mm lug nuts from EAS for all four corners and installed them after the 2nd session. We’ll see if the 19mm nuts resist getting stuck in the socket better.

Then, another thought occurred to me. My front brake rotors were getting aged——quite a few cracks that went to the inner edges of the rotor. I had new rotors in the trailer. My original plan was to swap them out next trip while at my shop if I do Super Lap Battle. But then I started thinking that trying to season/bed new rotors at a time trial competition may not be the best idea. Bedding the rotors prior to the event would be a better idea. I was at a Test and Tune day, and I was done trying to go fast. Was it possible to do the rotor install right there at the track and then season/bed them in so they’re good to go next time I drive? The only tool I was missing was a torque wrench that’s accurate at 124 inch/lbs (10.3 ft/lbs). (That tool was in CO.) I ran to the race shop at the track to see if I could borrow or rent a torque wrench. They let me use a nice Snap-On wrench. So, I decided to go for it.

I ran back to the car and started pulling the rotors off the car. And I’m happy to say the job went fine! No issues. But the whole job from start-to-finish took awhile—like 2.5 hours. (They recommend washing the discs with soap and water to remove some protective coating. I’m sure I looked pretty stupid washing the rotors in the Buttonwillow bathroom sinks!! I really enjoyed my walk of shame across the paddock carrying two rotors.)





Once the car was back together, I went out and seasoned the rotors, bringing them up to temperature gradually. All good.

Then, I decided I wanted to get a fresh set of tires installed on the rims that were currently on the car for Super Lap Battle because the current tires were not really gripping anymore. Plus, I wanted to test a new set of scrubs to see if they were any good. So, in the afternoon, I went over to the tire shop right before they closed and asked if they could do it. They said yes, but I needed to get them the wheels right away. That’s when my problems started. I hurried back to the car and pulled off the driver’s side wheels, rolled them to the shop and then put on the new scrubs. I moved to the passenger side of the car, pulled those wheels off and rolled them to the shop. At that point, all the pressure was off. All I had to do was put on two more wheels with the new scrubs and go out on track and test the tires out. Buuuuuut, I didn’t follow my normal wheel installation procedure. I put the rear wheel on, then hand started the lug nuts, but did not gun them on. I ALWAYS gun them on right away……..ALWAYS. I went to the front and put the front wheel on, and gunned those nuts on. I forgot that I didn’t gun the rear nuts on and lowered the car to tighten the rear lug nuts. Of course, without any lug nuts holding the wheel in place, the wheel shifted and the car’s weight was leaning on the studs………..ARGH! I’ve broken studs this way in the past. Friends have helped me change wheels and lowered the car too soon and then the car barely rests on the studs and a couple sessions later, they break………

I was so mad at myself. The last session of the day was 4:00-4:30. It was 3:45. I was determined to test these scrubs, but I didn’t want to drive on those studs. Did I have new studs? Could I swap studs in time? I’m not fast at this stuff. I usually put my studs on at 40 ft lbs. It requires double-nutting. That takes me time. Ironically, I had just swapped new 19mm lug nuts on the car, so I had a set of 17 mm lug nuts just sitting there waiting to be used for such a task.

I jumped into the trailer and found 5 new studs. So, I decided to go for it. Double-nutted them all up with the old 17mm lugs. Ran to the car, pulled the studs with a stud puller and impact gun. The Bimmerworld studs have the crusty pink thread locker on them, so they can get installed quickly. I install them and 4 of the 5 torqued to 40 ft lbs. The double-nutting of the last stud isn’t tight enough to get the 40 ft lbs. I had to fiddle around with it quite a bit, but finally got it up to torque I wanted. The clock was ticking…….by the time the car was put back together, it was 4:15. I didn’t bother with my race suit. I jumped in the car and ran out on track. In the 90ºF heat, on the new scrubs, I ran 1:50.2. I was happy to only be 1 second off my morning best. The scrubs were good. The studs were good. Phew.

Then-----I had to clean the trailer. Nooooooo! hahahaha

This is what it looked like……can’t put a car in there looking like that!! hehe it took over an hour to clean it all up and put everything back where it belongs. I was exhausted.



I think this track day had the most technical duties I’ve ever had to deal with in a single day. Dialing in a suspension, changing lug nuts and swapping over to 19mm sockets, installing new rotors, changing one corner of studs, getting tires installed, multiple wheel swaps throughout the day, and all in the 90ºF heat! hehe I forgot to eat lunch!

After all of this, the two things I walked away with are:
-don’t wait so long between suspension rebuilds---go with 40 tracks days/2 years
-don’t deviate from your normal routine when doing things like changing wheels. Take your time and do it right. Every time.

Anyway, I’m satisfied that the car is running well. I submitted the pre-registration form for Super Lap Battle. Hopefully, they’ll accept my registration and I can compete in that. It's a great atmosphere.

Side note: Geez——gas prices in CA are ridiculous. 87 octane at a regular gas station along the 5 freeway was $4.99/gallon……. Here at home in CO, a Shell gas station along the 25 freeway is selling 87 octane for $2.57. That’s a $2.42/gallon difference……To put 25 gallons in my pickup truck, that’s a $60 DIFFERENCE!
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      10-28-2019, 08:46 AM   #1394
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It is remarkably important to do things the same way every time. My brother and I divvy the tasks and the same person always does the same thing... minimizes the chance for error

And yeah, swapping out regular rotors is an epic PITA. The little bolts, nuts, weird spacers, torque each one
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      10-28-2019, 11:16 AM   #1395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogbone View Post
Well, it was quite a busy week with the E90.

The largest item on the to-do list was finalizing the suspension rebuild. Rob at Chewerks reported back that BOTH rear shocks were blown. One of them wasn't doing any compression damping at all and the other was doing a little damping. One damper leaked and you could see the results on the floor of the trailer. The other blew the seals internally between the nitrogen and the oil in the reservoir, so you didn't see any leaking, but it was not functioning correctly......they were a mess. The rear rebound damping was still working. The fronts were still working within spec. The fluid was a little dirty, but they were still functioning properly. (He did before and after shock dynos to confirm.)

The plan was to have the rebuild, re-install and alignment finished by this past Wednesday and I was very happy that Chewerks got it done on schedule. This allowed the car to be towed to European Auto Source Wednesday afternoon to start looking at the brake booster situation.

Once the car arrived at EAS, Steve and the crew jumped on it right away. And they found a blown fuse that connects to the vacuum pump. I guess when the wires frayed, the fuse blew. They cleaned up the wiring, dealt with the fuse and decided that the pump did not need replacing. That was easier than I thought it would be. Phew.

So, the car was ready for pickup on Thursday. This allowed me to go to the track on Friday to test the car out. If Super Lap Battle is in my future, I did not want the first time I drove the car to be at SLB. I decided to go to Buttonwillow. They were hosting a Test and Tune day running config 25CW. Figured that would be more useful than going to Willow Springs’ Test and Tune day. And I’m glad I made that decision because on Friday morning, they closed the 14 Freeway on the way to Willow Springs due to brush fires…..so, off to Buttonwillow on Friday AM.

The weather at Buttonwillow was starting nicely in the 60s, but it was going to 90ºF. I had decent tires on the car to start. Of course, I was very curious how the car would feel after the suspension rebuild. The first order of business was to get gas. I had not adjusted any suspension settings yet. I knew the settings were random after the rebuild and that I would need to put them back where I like them. But it was interesting to feel the car on the random settings as I drove to get gas. It was really jittery. Turns out that the random settings had the rebound quite high. Upon returning to the trailer, I immediately jumped onto the task of adjusting the dampers with my settings. Oh my gosh, just driving to the pit lane, the car felt smooth as butter. I never cease to be amazed at how much damper settings can alter the feeling.

Hehe another interesting note after the rebuild. I’ve had plenty of alignments done over the years at different places. Most of my alignments are pretty down and dirty. Toss the car on a laser rig and get it done quick. So, I was prepping to go out on track, and I was checking the pressures of the cold Pirelli DH tires——and they were at 32 psi…….I was like WUT!? The last time I touched the tires was for the PCA time trial two weeks ago when it was 90ºF. These cold tires in 60ºF temps should have had like 18 psi in them. I was sitting there wondering how the heck that possible. I checked, and all 4 tires were at 32 psi…..and then it occurred to me——Chewerks pumped up the tires for the alignment. Cool! Nobody has ever done that in 7 years!

So, I get out on track and it takes two seconds to determine that the suspension feels great. My old JRZ settings that I had settled on many years ago felt spot on to me. And once I got the brakes and tires up to temp, it took just a couple brake presses to determine that the brakes were fine too. Yay! So, I jumped harder on the car and was happy with how it felt.

So, I am very happy with the suspension rebuild. Chewerks made my life soooooo much easier. I asked Rob if dropping off my car with him and leaving it was a one-time thing or that was standard business. He said it’s standard business. Excellent. He mentioned that JRZ recommends around 40 track days or 2 years between rebuilds. I will stick with that. And I was also happy to learn that Chewerks uses JRZ’s shock fluid for the rebuilds. And the fee for the job was reasonable.

I’ve never driven Buttonwillow config 25CW before, so———I’m thrilled to report that I ran a new personal best! Hahahaha I ran a 1:49.2 in the first session. The time is fine, but I know I can do better. I had a better lap in the 1:48’s going in session #2, but didn’t get Star Mazda correct and lost it. I had to pass two cars on that lap and got distracted. Then, as the heat set in by 11:30, it was pretty clear that going faster would be impossible.

How is 25CW? It’s fine. It skips Bus Stop, and skips Sweeper to go down to Star Mazda. To me, Bus Stop is about the most challenging part of Buttonwillow, so skipping it kinda makes the track a bit more boring——just going straight after Cotton Corners is not challenging at all. The only thing you need to sort out is braking as you turn into Riverside. And Star Mazda is fine….I prefer Sweeper.

Here’s my fast lap:


So, was that it? No! Of course not. I had to make the day more difficult!

The first technical thing I did was change out my lug nuts to 19mm lug nuts. For some reason lately, my 17mm lug nuts have been getting stuck in my socket when I use the impact gun to take them off. Sometimes it’s so stuck, I have to gun the nut all the back down onto the wheel and tension it a bit to get it to release. It’s been happening quite a bit and I’ve tried different sockets with the same results…… So annoying. I got some 19mm lug nuts from EAS for all four corners and installed them after the 2nd session. We’ll see if the 19mm nuts resist getting stuck in the socket better.

Then, another thought occurred to me. My front brake rotors were getting aged——quite a few cracks that went to the inner edges of the rotor. I had new rotors in the trailer. My original plan was to swap them out next trip while at my shop if I do Super Lap Battle. But then I started thinking that trying to season/bed new rotors at a time trial competition may not be the best idea. Bedding the rotors prior to the event would be a better idea. I was at a Test and Tune day, and I was done trying to go fast. Was it possible to do the rotor install right there at the track and then season/bed them in so they’re good to go next time I drive? The only tool I was missing was a torque wrench that’s accurate at 124 inch/lbs (10.3 ft/lbs). (That tool was in CO.) I ran to the race shop at the track to see if I could borrow or rent a torque wrench. They let me use a nice Snap-On wrench. So, I decided to go for it.

I ran back to the car and started pulling the rotors off the car. And I’m happy to say the job went fine! No issues. But the whole job from start-to-finish took awhile—like 2.5 hours. (They recommend washing the discs with soap and water to remove some protective coating. I’m sure I looked pretty stupid washing the rotors in the Buttonwillow bathroom sinks!! I really enjoyed my walk of shame across the paddock carrying two rotors.)





Once the car was back together, I went out and seasoned the rotors, bringing them up to temperature gradually. All good.

Then, I decided I wanted to get a fresh set of tires installed on the rims that were currently on the car for Super Lap Battle because the current tires were not really gripping anymore. Plus, I wanted to test a new set of scrubs to see if they were any good. So, in the afternoon, I went over to the tire shop right before they closed and asked if they could do it. They said yes, but I needed to get them the wheels right away. That’s when my problems started. I hurried back to the car and pulled off the driver’s side wheels, rolled them to the shop and then put on the new scrubs. I moved to the passenger side of the car, pulled those wheels off and rolled them to the shop. At that point, all the pressure was off. All I had to do was put on two more wheels with the new scrubs and go out on track and test the tires out. Buuuuuut, I didn’t follow my normal wheel installation procedure. I put the rear wheel on, then hand started the lug nuts, but did not gun them on. I ALWAYS gun them on right away……..ALWAYS. I went to the front and put the front wheel on, and gunned those nuts on. I forgot that I didn’t gun the rear nuts on and lowered the car to tighten the rear lug nuts. Of course, without any lug nuts holding the wheel in place, the wheel shifted and the car’s weight was leaning on the studs………..ARGH! I’ve broken studs this way in the past. Friends have helped me change wheels and lowered the car too soon and then the car barely rests on the studs and a couple sessions later, they break………

I was so mad at myself. The last session of the day was 4:00-4:30. It was 3:45. I was determined to test these scrubs, but I didn’t want to drive on those studs. Did I have new studs? Could I swap studs in time? I’m not fast at this stuff. I usually put my studs on at 40 ft lbs. It requires double-nutting. That takes me time. Ironically, I had just swapped new 19mm lug nuts on the car, so I had a set of 17 mm lug nuts just sitting there waiting to be used for such a task.

I jumped into the trailer and found 5 new studs. So, I decided to go for it. Double-nutted them all up with the old 17mm lugs. Ran to the car, pulled the studs with a stud puller and impact gun. The Bimmerworld studs have the crusty pink thread locker on them, so they can get installed quickly. I install them and 4 of the 5 torqued to 40 ft lbs. The double-nutting of the last stud isn’t tight enough to get the 40 ft lbs. I had to fiddle around with it quite a bit, but finally got it up to torque I wanted. The clock was ticking…….by the time the car was put back together, it was 4:15. I didn’t bother with my race suit. I jumped in the car and ran out on track. In the 90ºF heat, on the new scrubs, I ran 1:50.2. I was happy to only be 1 second off my morning best. The scrubs were good. The studs were good. Phew.

Then-----I had to clean the trailer. Nooooooo! hahahaha

This is what it looked like……can’t put a car in there looking like that!! hehe it took over an hour to clean it all up and put everything back where it belongs. I was exhausted.



I think this track day had the most technical duties I’ve ever had to deal with in a single day. Dialing in a suspension, changing lug nuts and swapping over to 19mm sockets, installing new rotors, changing one corner of studs, getting tires installed, multiple wheel swaps throughout the day, and all in the 90ºF heat! hehe I forgot to eat lunch!

After all of this, the two things I walked away with are:
-don’t wait so long between suspension rebuilds---go with 40 tracks days/2 years
-don’t deviate from your normal routine when doing things like changing wheels. Take your time and do it right. Every time.

Anyway, I’m satisfied that the car is running well. I submitted the pre-registration form for Super Lap Battle. Hopefully, they’ll accept my registration and I can compete in that. It's a great atmosphere.

Side note: Geez——gas prices in CA are ridiculous. 87 octane at a regular gas station along the 5 freeway was $4.99/gallon……. Here at home in CO, a Shell gas station along the 25 freeway is selling 87 octane for $2.57. That’s a $2.42/gallon difference……To put 25 gallons in my pickup truck, that’s a $60 DIFFERENCE!

Lot of good stuff in that post - sounds like a busy but overall successful outing. Good luck with the super lap battle - please update us on that when you hear back.

Also...

-I don't think walking back from the restroom holding two freshly bathed rotors qualifies as a walk of shame. Now if you were walking back from the track with said rotors - because that is somehow all that is left of the car - that *might* come close to a walk of shame. I always use the penicillin rule to determine the validity of any walk of shame - if you think that a precautionary dose of penicillin might be a good idea after whatever it was you just did - then that is a walk of shame. If not then eh, no shame its all good. Lovingly caring for your car parts not a walk of shame.

-Cleaning the trailer at the end of the day sucksssss. Do my best to keep it clean all day but I'm pretty sure some gremlins sneak in there at some point and trash it.

-4.99/gal, just wow
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      10-28-2019, 12:56 PM   #1396
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Originally Posted by OG Shark View Post
Lot of good stuff in that post - sounds like a busy but overall successful outing. Good luck with the super lap battle - please update us on that when you hear back.

Also...

-I don't think walking back from the restroom holding two freshly bathed rotors qualifies as a walk of shame. Now if you were walking back from the track with said rotors - because that is somehow all that is left of the car - that *might* come close to a walk of shame. I always use the penicillin rule to determine the validity of any walk of shame - if you think that a precautionary dose of penicillin might be a good idea after whatever it was you just did - then that is a walk of shame. If not then eh, no shame its all good. Lovingly caring for your car parts not a walk of shame.

-Cleaning the trailer at the end of the day sucksssss. Do my best to keep it clean all day but I'm pretty sure some gremlins sneak in there at some point and trash it.

-4.99/gal, just wow
hehe well, no penicillin was needed, so that's good!

I was thinking about the stud issues from that afternoon and I had a realization. I was really stressing out trying to get those new studs on quickly. I'm an idiot. I carry lug bolts with me as a backup. I could have just removed the studs, installed lug bolts and then had my shop put the studs in later......could have saved a lot of stress and sweating. ARGH! Ah, hindsight when you're thinking about it calmly......So, there's one more piece of advice----keep lug bolts around and use those as a temporary replacement to get back up and running quickly for the rest of the day.....man, I'm bummed I forgot about the lug bolts.....

I was so offended by the gas prices, I took a pic of the price sign. I think it's the palm trees that make the gas so expensive......


hehe so I had dinner with my parents after the track day. Of course, my mom doesn't understand anything about motorsport. The only thing she took away from the conversation about the day was that I skipped lunch. "Poor boy....no lunch.....why do you do that to yourself??" hahahaha
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      10-29-2019, 12:59 AM   #1397
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I am happy to report that I am signed up for Global Time Attack's Super Lap Battle at Buttonwillow. As usual, they'll be running config #13CW. This is what I consider to be my home track and home config. I'll be in the Unlimited Class since I want to run slicks.

I'm quite sure I have no chance of winning, but that's not really the point for me. This is a vibrant, highly competitive environment, and it's fun to be a part of it.

8 of the 12 cars so far in Unlimited are RWD. If the past is any indicator, the Miatas and S2000's will run away with it. There is a Corvette signed up that I've never heard of. When those are built right, they put down incredible times. There is a BMW E36 M3 in the Class. Those guys used to run some pretty quick S2000's. Curious to see how they do in a BMW. Jason Sharek's Mercedes C63 is signed up. It's an amazing build put together by Michael Essa. We always have fun duking it out. Anyway, lots of interesting competition to consider.

I have podiumed at SLB before, but each year, the competition seems to step it up more and more, so my best bet is to focus on putting together clean laps. I know that sounds basic, but sometimes you just gotta go back to basics. I've put in enough laps at Buttonwillow to know how to get around the track cleanly. The question always is: can you put it all together in one lap? Looking at last year's SLB results, I could easily have podiumed. And if I ran my current personal best time, could have gotten 2nd.

My long time goal has been to hit a 1:46 at Buttonwillow. I know that in the correct conditions it's possible because I've been in that territory until the DCT double-upshifted. I was hoping that carbon doors could be on the car for SLB. I thought maybe that could be the extra kick that puts me over the top for a 1:46, but the fabricator just isn't far enough along.

Other thoughts:

-In previous years, SLB was run a week or two earlier in November and the weather would still be quite warm. It would get into the mid-80's.....blah. But this is the first year that they've been able to acquire a weekend slot and it's a bit later than the previous events. In my experience, mid-November is when it finally cools off, and the event is Nov. 16 and 17. So, I'm hopeful that the weather will be cool----or at least significantly cooler than mid-80's......(One year, I went to Buttonwillow by myself for a semi-exclusive day----November 16, 2015. The high was 58ºF that day. So, I'm hopeful!)

-I have good tires. Remember all the stress about getting tires mounted at the Buttonwillow tire shop on Friday? I had new Pirelli DH mounted. I've never attended a GTA event with such good tires. I will be working hard to sort out when is the right time to run them. If you've followed my thread over the years, you know I have struggled to find clean laps at SLB---meaning a lap where someone isn't impeding my lap with a broken down car, or a car fire, or fluid on the track, or someone in an AWD car put on their hero tires and is screaming past me or the start/finish guy throws a Yellow flag for no reason.....shall I continue?.....haha which seems ironic. Isn't a TT supposed to basically guarantee clean laps? Anyway, as far as tires go, there will be no excuses in the tire department this year.

-The car feels good. I've been experimenting with some different aero settings. I believe they've been working for me. I like the feel. I'll stay a bit vague on what I've been doing for now. It's not that big of a deal, but I've been messing around with it.

-They will be live-streaming the event. So, if anyone is curious, you can watch it.

Anyway, I'm looking forward to putting down some TT laps in less than 3 weeks!!

Stay tuned!
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      10-29-2019, 06:42 AM   #1398
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Originally Posted by dogbone View Post
I am happy to report that I am signed up for Global Time Attack's Super Lap Battle at Buttonwillow. As usual, they'll be running config #13CW. This is what I consider to be my home track and home config. I'll be in the Unlimited Class since I want to run slicks.

I'm quite sure I have no chance of winning, but that's not really the point for me. This is a vibrant, highly competitive environment, and it's fun to be a part of it.

8 of the 12 cars so far in Unlimited are RWD. If the past is any indicator, the Miatas and S2000's will run away with it. There is a Corvette signed up that I've never heard of. When those are built right, they put down incredible times. There is a BMW E36 M3 in the Class. Those guys used to run some pretty quick S2000's. Curious to see how they do in a BMW. Jason Sharek's Mercedes C63 is signed up. It's an amazing build put together by Michael Essa. We always have fun duking it out. Anyway, lots of interesting competition to consider.

I have podiumed at SLB before, but each year, the competition seems to step it up more and more, so my best bet is to focus on putting together clean laps. I know that sounds basic, but sometimes you just gotta go back to basics. I've put in enough laps at Buttonwillow to know how to get around the track cleanly. The question always is: can you put it all together in one lap? Looking at last year's SLB results, I could easily have podiumed. And if I ran my current personal best time, could have gotten 2nd.

My long time goal has been to hit a 1:46 at Buttonwillow. I know that in the correct conditions it's possible because I've been in that territory until the DCT double-upshifted. I was hoping that carbon doors could be on the car for SLB. I thought maybe that could be the extra kick that puts me over the top for a 1:46, but the fabricator just isn't far enough along.

Other thoughts:

-In previous years, SLB was run a week or two earlier in November and the weather would still be quite warm. It would get into the mid-80's.....blah. But this is the first year that they've been able to acquire a weekend slot and it's a bit later than the previous events. In my experience, mid-November is when it finally cools off, and the event is Nov. 16 and 17. So, I'm hopeful that the weather will be cool----or at least significantly cooler than mid-80's......(One year, I went to Buttonwillow by myself for a semi-exclusive day----November 16, 2015. The high was 58ºF that day. So, I'm hopeful!)

-I have good tires. Remember all the stress about getting tires mounted at the Buttonwillow tire shop on Friday? I had new Pirelli DH mounted. I've never attended a GTA event with such good tires. I will be working hard to sort out when is the right time to run them. If you've followed my thread over the years, you know I have struggled to find clean laps at SLB---meaning a lap where someone isn't impeding my lap with a broken down car, or a car fire, or fluid on the track, or someone in an AWD car put on their hero tires and is screaming past me or the start/finish guy throws a Yellow flag for no reason.....shall I continue?.....haha which seems ironic. Isn't a TT supposed to basically guarantee clean laps? Anyway, as far as tires go, there will be no excuses in the tire department this year.

-The car feels good. I've been experimenting with some different aero settings. I believe they've been working for me. I like the feel. I'll stay a bit vague on what I've been doing for now. It's not that big of a deal, but I've been messing around with it.

-They will be live-streaming the event. So, if anyone is curious, you can watch it.

Anyway, I'm looking forward to putting down some TT laps in less than 3 weeks!!

Stay tuned!
Best of luck! Is the corvette driver a guy named Feras? If so that's our Texas hot shoe. Very fast.
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      10-29-2019, 08:28 AM   #1399
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Best of luck! Is the corvette driver a guy named Feras? If so that's our Texas hot shoe. Very fast.
Thanks!

The Corvette is a Caliber Customs with Sean Cagle at the wheel.

If you scroll way down the page, you can see the entries this year: GTA SuperLap Battle Info
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      10-31-2019, 09:05 AM   #1400
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Public Service Announcement: Castrol SRF has been in short supply recently----actually unavailable. However yesterday, I was noodling around on Amazon, and SRF was available again! And at a good price! $71/liter via Powersports Superstore. You know you want it!
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      11-05-2019, 11:46 AM   #1401
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Public Service Announcement: Castrol SRF has been in short supply recently----actually unavailable. However yesterday, I was noodling around on Amazon, and SRF was available again! And at a good price! $71/liter via Powersports Superstore. You know you want it!
if you ever run out let me know, I have 8 bottles in the basement
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      11-05-2019, 12:00 PM   #1402
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if you ever run out let me know, I have 8 bottles in the basement
Dang it! So THAT'S where all the SRF went------your basement! You trying to corner the market? hahahaha

I can see it right now:
(walks up real suspiciously, unzips race suit, partially pulls out a bottle) hey buddy, lookin' for SRF? Got some right here. Only $400 a bottle. What? No, this isn't Motul poured into an SRF bottle!! What? No, it isn't used! Hey, stop hitting me!!!
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      11-05-2019, 12:22 PM   #1403
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Dang it! So THAT'S where all the SRF went------your basement! You trying to corner the market? hahahaha

I can see it right now:
(walks up real suspiciously, unzips race suit, partially pulls out a bottle) hey buddy, lookin' for SRF? Got some right here. Only $400 a bottle. What? No, this isn't Motul poured into an SRF bottle!! What? No, it isn't used! Hey, stop hitting me!!!
I don't use much so this should last a long time! But I did hoard them when they started running low
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      11-11-2019, 02:32 PM   #1404
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A couple weeks ago, when I was testing and tuning at Buttonwillow, a Miata spun right in front of me at Phil Hill. I have a pretty good video recording of it since I was hanging out behind him. (I wasn't in any grand hurry to get around him since it was my second lap of the day. I was just feeling the newly rebuilt suspension and letting the tires and brakes warm up.) We were braking down from 90mph. Normally, on a hot lap, I'd be at 125mph at the braking zone.

The braking zone for Phil Hill is not really a common spot to spin while braking---at least I've never seen it happen before this. You're braking generally in a straight line and you're braking up hill......it just doesn't seem ripe for spinning.

So, the question is-----why did he spin? The first guess would be that he moneyshifted. Smoke came from his rear tires first. I guess the rear wheels spun up? They sort of seem to still be spinning when we see the car from the side. So, does that eliminate the possibility of some odd rear lockup?

But if he moneyshifted----wouldn't the engine blow? Or at least something break on the car? The car continued to drive like nothing happened. He continued driving that session and was out on track all day. Do Miatas survive moneyshifts like nothing happened? I'm not a manual transmission guy. I was under the impression that a single moneyshift usually breaks something related to the drivetrain.



(I wondered if the video would show some kind of physical reaction from me to his spin. You can see my eyes in the rear view mirror as he spins. I thought maybe I would see some kind of concern---eyebrow raise or a frown or something, but no....my eyes showed no reaction to his spin at all.....borrrrring....another car spinning.....wave to the flag station corner worker and move on! hahaha)
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      11-11-2019, 03:18 PM   #1405
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A couple weeks ago, when I was testing and tuning at Buttonwillow, a Miata spun right in front of me at Phil Hill. I have a pretty good video recording of it since I was hanging out behind him. (I wasn't in any grand hurry to get around him since it was my second lap of the day. I was just feeling the newly rebuilt suspension and letting the tires and brakes warm up.) We were braking down from 90mph. Normally, on a hot lap, I'd be at 125mph at the braking zone.

The braking zone for Phil Hill is not really a common spot to spin while braking---at least I've never seen it happen before this. You're braking generally in a straight line and you're braking up hill......it just doesn't seem ripe for spinning.

So, the question is-----why did he spin? The first guess would be that he moneyshifted. Smoke came from his rear tires first. I guess the rear wheels spun up? They sort of seem to still be spinning when we see the car from the side. So, does that eliminate the possibility of some odd rear lockup?

But if he moneyshifted----wouldn't the engine blow? Or at least something break on the car? The car continued to drive like nothing happened. He continued driving that session and was out on track all day. Do Miatas survive moneyshifts like nothing happened? I'm not a manual transmission guy. I was under the impression that a single moneyshift usually breaks something related to the drivetrain.

(I wondered if the video would show some kind of physical reaction from me to his spin. You can see my eyes in the rear view mirror as he spins. I thought maybe I would see some kind of concern---eyebrow raise or a frown or something, but no....my eyes showed no reaction to his spin at all.....borrrrring....another car spinning.....wave to the flag station corner worker and move on! hahaha)
I bet it was ABS lockup.

Some cars, like the E36, default to a rear bias when ABS is disconnected.
For some inexplicable reason, some ...people... think it's better to not use ABS in their dedicated track cars.

This may have happened at AER in one of our E36s. Team captain was convinced it was a moneyshift or a very abrupt downshift but in fact it occurred while braking in a completely straight line with zero involvement in shifts

Of course if you are not part of those ...people... who believe disconnecting ABS is good, you do not expect stupid shit like this to happen, so by the time you connect with the wall at 100mph you are still wondering WTF is happening.

Perhaps the Miata also defaults to the rear when ABS is disconnected
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      11-11-2019, 04:58 PM   #1406
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IMO that's 100% a botched downshift. You just don't hit the brakes that hard into Phil Hill and the fact that it only comes from the back tires... Likely he got the clutch back in with enough time to keep the engine from revving to the moon, but didn't have enough situational awareness to also keep the car pointed forward. I have ended up fairly sideways on entry just from missing a blip on a downshift into the correct gear. Usually this happens when you miss the gear you were going for on the downshift, and in the time it takes you to get the shifter into gear and then let the clutch out the engine revs have dropped so low that it brakes the back tires really hard and can break them loose.

Edit: not all Miatas started with ABS, so certainly it could be a driver-error or some combo of downshift and hard braking to cause it.

And I agree 100% on the premise that removing or disabling ABS on cars that have a decent system is a terrible idea.
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      11-11-2019, 05:02 PM   #1407
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IMO that's 100% a botched downshift.
100% this
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      11-11-2019, 06:14 PM   #1408
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Interesting thought about the ABS. I doubt I would turn it off.

I'm still leaning in the moneyshift direction.

Didn't Richbot race these things?
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