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05-21-2016, 07:42 PM | #529 | |
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Yeah I replaced one entire unit and did the odometer gears to the other. So should be good. How do I get the plenum back on? I can't get the back of the plenum to go far enough into the throttle bodies. I'll post some pics. There's a little ridge on the plenum that has to go into the throttle body rubber so that the clamp will get it to stay down and I've been wrestling with it for 30 minutes and can't figure it out. I even go into the engine bay to push down on it and nothing. Help!!!! Please!! |
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05-21-2016, 08:04 PM | #530 |
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Loosen them way up. It takes some oomph to get it to sit, I stood on a ladder and leaned into it. At one point I kneeled onto it, it held my weight.
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05-21-2016, 08:10 PM | #531 |
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Also start with the back first
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05-21-2016, 08:42 PM | #532 |
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While you're there I would suggest lubricating the arms that move the valves. Many people have complained about them squeaking.....me included.
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05-21-2016, 11:46 PM | #533 | ||
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Yup I did and it worked great. Quote:
The actuator swap was easy diy. Hardest part were the wire clips. The odometer gear installation, that was another story. Broke one gear because I didn't catch the gear was directional. Then broke a number of drill bits trying to drill the spring pin hole. Then the bushing wouldn't pull down so I had to press it in with a piece of aluminum tube and hammer. It definitely tried my patience but all worked out well. Darren and Jeff at odometer gears are amazing. They overnighted me the half moon gear for just the shipping cost, no charge for the gear. Oh and they returned my texts at 950pm their time when I was at my most frustrated after breaking the gear. Great guys. Thanks so much for your great help here guys. You're awesome. Matt |
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05-26-2016, 11:41 AM | #534 |
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Anyone know if there's a for sure way to know if the board is bad on your throttle body actuator, or if its just the gears/moffset?
Have same issue on one bank, getting christmas lights. Considering getting gear kit or pulling them and sending for refurbishment in UK. They do gears as moffsets. I'm open to any less costly solution. http://www.rebuild.org.uk/buy-rebuild-service/ |
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05-28-2016, 01:37 AM | #535 |
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Are there a lot of the circuitry getting fried as well from the heat or is mainly the gears? What I am afraid is when they eventually stop producing these. If the heat is a contributing factor for failing t/a's then is it possible to apply a heat resistant coating to them?
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05-31-2016, 03:45 PM | #537 |
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Has BMW re-engineered or corrected the Throttle Body Actuator from same failure. It seems like it's a disposable part that could be re-engineered to fix future problems.
Also, It seems to be significantly more common on 2008's than any other year. Chime in with your model year if it failed, please. |
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06-06-2016, 01:01 PM | #538 |
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So I was about to replace my throttle actuator using this DIY. I got the code about a week ago. I cleared the codes, because I needed to drive my car, now that I have time to replace my actuator, this morning I go out to my car to get the code again to make sure I was replacing bank 1. Now I'm stuck trying to figured out which actuators I need to replace? I'm a little confused, any help? Thanks in advance.
These are the first codes I got 2) 2B57 Motor emergency programm activated 3) 2B21 Throttle valve actuator predrive check bank 1 These are the codes I got today 1) CDC0 Throttle valve actuator CAN message bank 2 2) 2B57 Motor emergency programm activated 3) 2B21 Throttle valve actuator predrive check bank 1 |
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06-07-2016, 07:21 AM | #539 |
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06-07-2016, 07:43 PM | #540 | |
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Bmw Minnetonka. |
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06-16-2016, 05:18 PM | #541 |
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boo... another 2008 with issues... just got Christmas tree lights and limp mode last night as I was pulling into garage. Tried again this morning and all were gone and as if it didn't happen but I pulled some codes (below) using carly and cleared them.
Does it mean its too late to swap gears and a replacement should be ordered? Car is sitting until I can figure this out. Codes in question is .. 002B21 - Predriver check throttle valve actuator 002B57 - check at lower top |
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06-16-2016, 09:17 PM | #542 |
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So I've had the 27A1 for a few weeks every once in a while now. I can usually just clear the codes with my P3 gauge and the limp mode goes away either right away, or after turning off, locking, unlocking and restarting the car. It popped up when I started the car right away tonight, tried to clear the code like 4 times with no luck. I have the new TA, but it's going to be another week or two before I can get it on the car. I don't drive it a ton, maybe 100 miles every 2-3 weeks. Is there any way to get rid of the limp mode or something I'm forgetting? I will need to make a 2.5 hr drive back home before I can install the TA
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06-16-2016, 11:01 PM | #543 | |
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06-16-2016, 11:02 PM | #544 | |
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06-17-2016, 08:53 AM | #545 |
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I was afraid that was the case. Guess i'll try to get the new TA in sooner than later.
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06-17-2016, 09:56 AM | #546 | |
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is the odometergear stuff better? It just looked like plastic which is the OEM right? or am I off base and these are better in some way? Or are you simply suggesting to try and revive it as it wont hurt? Sorry I didnt read the whole thread just looked at the pics. Last edited by wuzupfoo; 06-17-2016 at 10:54 AM.. |
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06-17-2016, 01:29 PM | #547 | |
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coupenut.blogspot.com x5nut.blogspot.com 16 X5d | 08 M3 Sedan | 06 M Coupe | 01 M coupe | 99 M coupe |
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06-18-2016, 12:44 AM | #548 | ||
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06-18-2016, 12:46 AM | #549 | ||
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06-26-2016, 07:06 PM | #550 |
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I have all the symptoms at 89K miles. So I started with Bank 2 and as I pried it open, a piece fell out. I've circled it in red in the pic. It looks like a gasket/washer but it feels like it broke off some plastic piece because of it's rough edges. Any idea where it goes?
BTW, thanks to JonM, pbonsalb, drummer20 and pshoey for your responses.
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