High Mileage 2009???

[rennwerkes]

I have the opportunity to pick up a high mileage (130k) M3 with DCT. The owner has all service records and car looks really nice. It was a daily driver and mainly used for highway driving.
I'm aware of the small issues this car has and am absolutely willing to deal with them. But I'm most worried, obviously, about the rod bearings. In fact, I think the seller would be willing to split the cost of having them done with me. But at 130k is this really an issue at this point?
Also, would the shocks be shot too? I know replacement of the suspension is crazy expensive too!
Thanks!

[oolas3]

The issue doesn’t go away at any particular mileage. I’ve seen failure reports here anywhere from 10k to 170k miles. The vast majority of people do not experience failures but you are taking a chance. I’m in the replace camp but I can understand why people don’t. In terms of the shocks, they are most likely worn. I would budget for it.

[Siajoon]

Originally Posted by oolas3

The issue doesn't go away at any particular mileage. I've seen failure reports here anywhere from 10k to 170k miles. The vast majority of people do not experience failures but you are taking a chance. I'm in the replace camp but I can understand why people don't. In terms of the shocks, they are most likely worn. I would budget for it.

Everything he said is on point. Just get your bearings done, don't waste your time getting an oil analysis and posting it here asking what people think. Its seriously useless.

Get your rod bearings done, and budget in a new suspension. This can be your chance to get some nice KW coil overs or club sports! Cheers!

[rennwerkes]

Seller just confirmed that the shocks were done in 2016. One less thing to worry about!

[bmwpower603]

DCT M3 with 130k miles. How much does the guy want for it?

A six speed with that mileage would be around $14,000.

So DCT is prob $10,000-$12,000?

[rennwerkes]

LOL!
He's asking $16k

[bmwpower603]

Wow. Try to get him down to $12,000-$13,000.

I can run the autocheck on the vehicle if you already have not.

Find out what the VIN # is. And I’d be happy to help.

It will also give me a breakdown of what the same cars have gone for at dealer auctions around the country.

[rennwerkes]

That's actually what I was thinking of shooting for.
I'll pm you when I get the VIN. Appreciate the help.
The car does have a full service history so there's some value to that to me.

[LeeMT]

I got everything done right after I pick up my e90(70K), including two new TBAs, rod bearings, new engine mounts, power steering flush, DCT service, and new suspension. Even it came with a full-service record, I still did them just preventively. In your case, you don't have to worry about suspension but just be aware of RBs and TBA especially if you can feel the extra vibration from the engine bay and unstable rav between 1000-1500 rpm (mine was so rough when I just had it, I could feel how hard it was running. But it's as smooth as new now!), get them done and enjoy your new m3 for another 100k!

[rennwerkes]

Yup, that's what I plan on doing!

[XKxRome0ox]

Originally Posted by rennwerkes

I have the opportunity to pick up a high mileage (130k) M3 with DCT. The owner has all service records and car looks really nice. It was a daily driver and mainly used for highway driving.
I'm aware of the small issues this car has and am absolutely willing to deal with them. But I'm most worried, obviously, about the rod bearings. In fact, I think the seller would be willing to split the cost of having them done with me. But at 130k is this really an issue at this point?
Also, would the shocks be shot too? I know replacement of the suspension is crazy expensive too!
Thanks!

sedan or coupe?
color?
options?
condition?

and ... are you in Honolulu? this is a big deal since you don't have the same options as people who are on the mainland

all of these will factor into the car's price

[rennwerkes]

Originally Posted by XKxRome0ox

sedan or coupe?
color?
options?
condition?

and ... are you in Honolulu? this is a big deal since you don't have the same options as people who are on the mainland

all of these will factor into the car's price

White
Coupe
Clean condition
Honolulu

You're absolutely right about location.
Seems as though M3's of this era are selling for under $20k on the mainland but here in Hawaii M3 owners are all asking well over $20k.

[oolas3]

Originally Posted by rennwerkes

White
Coupe
Clean condition
Honolulu

You're absolutely right about location.
Seems as though M3's of this era are selling for under $20k on the mainland but here in Hawaii M3 owners are all asking well over $20k.

Isn’t just about everything more expensive in Hawaii? Not that you should go to one, but I’d imagine the dealerships have especially bad prices over there.

[rennwerkes]

Yup, only one dealer on island. Same for Porsche, Mercedes, Audi, etc.

[rennwerkes]

Well, looks like it's a deal.
Any tips on how to actually check functioning of major things like the electronic dampers or any other suggestions?
Obviously I don't want to hear loud ticking or tapping sounds! LOL!
I know DCT should be smoothly shifting up and down.

[rennwerkes]

And, I've already found a shop that's going to take care of the rod bearings for me. I'll probably go with factory bearings and bolts since I have a friend that can get me good prices. From the threads I've read there doesn't seem to be any consensus between factory or aftermarket on either bearings or bolts?

[8500RPM]

BE Bearings and Bolts are what you want. OEM bolts take a lot longer to install and OEM bearings are the root of this problem in the 1st place!

[SoCalRPM]

Originally Posted by 8500RPM

BE Bearings and Bolts are what you want. OEM bolts take a lot longer to install and OEM bearings are the root of this problem in the 1st place!

+1

Everything I hear/see/read suggests using aftermarket parts for bearings. Do not use OEM parts again.

You'll definitely pay a premium for these cars in Hawaii. Definitely do a PPI before you buy if you can find a shop that you trust and knows German cars.

Hope it works out!

[rennwerkes]

I thought BMW upgraded the newer parts but I'll look at the aftermarket parts. Thanks

[bmwpower603]

I just did a lot of research on the ARP BE bolts, vs the Genuine BMW bolts.

ARP bolts are stronger. And easier to install.

Genuine bmw bolts make for a more round circle /finish around the crank, compared to the ARP bolts. (Not sure why)

Someone tested this with the rod out of the car. With these results.