(ENGINE RUNS!!!!) Broke down my engine block and changed the engine

[Ajolives]

Paid yourself to learn a valuable lesson, haha. That's what I tel myself anyways.

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by cwlo

Wouldn't a leaking injector show some oil dilution with fuel?

Injector stuck open in 2019, not this time.

Originally Posted by LakeSurfer

I would be more concerned with any residual debris blocking an oil passage.

I see your point, but if it was a hydrolock, it means, besides the piston ring, everything was okay the entire time until the blow up happened, then the engine worked like 5-10 seconds sucking oil with big fragments (in comparison with metal shavings from bearings problems) that maybe didn't have time to reach the oil pickup tubes.

I mean, engine can be very clean, right?

[jvictormp]

Actually, I checked out an old picture of 2020, when I changed the rod bearings and also the spark plugs, and guess how the cylinder 5 spark plug looked like.

I'll post the picture. It's the lower first left one. You can see some oily stain mark right below the washer.

That may indicate that back in those days that cylinder was burning more oil than the others, what you say?

Dont have a picture of the current spark plug now, because I'm out of home for some days, and I didn't remove the spark plugs yet.

[GORDON.M3]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

Actually, I checked out an old picture of 2020, when I changed the rod bearings and also the spark plugs, and guess how the cylinder 5 spark plug looked like.

I'll post the picture. It's the lower first left one. You can see some oily stain mark right below the washer.

That may indicate that back in those days that cylinder was burning more oil than the others, what you say?

Dont have a picture of the current spark plug now, because I'm out of home for some days, and I didn't remove the spark plugs yet.

What's the mileage of those plugs? If the plugs were regularly serviced they won't look nearly at all that black/brown. Looks like the engine was burning quite a lot of oil too...

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by GORDON.M3

What's the mileage of those plugs? If the plugs were regularly serviced they won't look nearly at all that black/brown. Looks like the engine was burning quite a lot of oil too...

Can't say for sure, I'm fourth owner, and previous owner wouldn't give any maintenance history, saying only that it was everything regularly maintained.

I changed them at 70,000km.

I did post that image in this forum back in the time I changed them, but nobody seemed to observe anything abnormal.

[jvictormp]

What would you guys say about this weld in the picture below?





https://www.ebay.com/itm/14409695610...961a%7Ciid%3A1




Also,

What would that little spring in the attached picture come from?

[drrust]

That spring looks like it from a ball point pen!

That was the motor I had referenced in an earlier post. Although the welded section is not near a dimension critical area (like a weld near a crank journal), you would have to rely on the repair as having kept that mounting point the same. It looks like it is one of the alternator mounting points but you should verify.

That motor will need a new head. Assuming the head in your current motor is still good, you will need a head gasket and other parts, along with the timing tools. You should research the TIS, as it may say you need new head bolts. Although that may not initially seem like much of an added cost, all those added parts can quickly add up. It may raise the cost of getting that motor running to that of a working salvaged motor.

[Assimilator1]

Are those 10mm nuts on the left side? (for context of the spring size).
If so, perhaps that spring was part of a pressure relief valve? Just guessing mind!

[Davisca455]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

What would you guys say about this weld in the picture below?

[IMG]https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/Ev4AA...7e/s-l1600.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/DwUAA...7i/s-l1600.jpg[/IMG]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/14409695610...961a%7Ciid%3A1




Also,

What would that little spring in the attached picture come from?

Things that come to mind are mostly about structural or dimensional changes that might have occurred because of the nature of the repair.

I imagine that the BMW engine block goes thru some sort of tempering (heat treating) prior to the final machining process?
Welding aluminum alloys can cause a "Heat Affected Zone" around the weld bead, that anneals all or part of the welded piece and the parent material nearest the weld bead.

Also, when welding on castings, there is the potential for issues like porosity, and generally a weld bead can shrink the surface which could cause stress.

I'd be curious about a couple of things:

How did the original crack start?
How was the crack prepared prior to the weld?
What is the roundness of the cylinder bore nearest the weld?
Have the threads in the welded area lost strength (soft due to annealing)?
Why was the engine removed?
How many miles, if any, had been accumulated after the weld repair?

[drrust]

The same seller on EBay also has a motor with low compression in one cylinder at a similar price point. Either route would be rolling the dice. One may be able to get either motor running well with your current motor donating some parts. Whichever route you take, make sure you've planned for some contingencies. Examples: on repaired block, alternator being out of alignment. Low compression block needing to get cylinders honed. The list could become extensive, but understanding the road you face will help with your decision making process.

[jvictormp]

I understand all those factors, and thank for having your contribution.

What makes me curious about those engines is this: why do they ask those high prices for blocks/engines that are so risky of being bad?

I mean, if there is people buying those blocks enough to prevent the prices from dropping, where are those people and what is going on with the engines they are buying?

[drrust]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

I understand all those factors, and thank for having your contribution.

What makes me curious about those engines is this: why do they ask those high prices for blocks/engines that are so risky of being bad?

I mean, if there is people buying those blocks enough to prevent the prices from dropping, where are those people and what is going on with the engines they are buying?

From various searches, it seems that a bare block would be on the order of $2k, the other parts of the motor could be sold individually too, likely coming in for above $4k total.

Edit: Curently on EBAY there is a supposedly clean block for $3k and a block with a beat up cylinder wall for under $1k.

However, the demand seems to be low for parts such as camshafts and heads so one could be holding on to the parts for a long time. That seller seems to showing more wrecked E46 M3s on IG lately, but the E90/92 come up often. If the welded up block was running, it would be more enticing. As it sits now, it is not clear how they would guarantee the motor (which they say they do).

[JP10]

Originally Posted by Davisca455

Things that come to mind are mostly about structural or dimensional changes that might have occurred because of the nature of the repair.

I imagine that the BMW engine block goes thru some sort of tempering (heat treating) prior to the final machining process?
Welding aluminum alloys can cause a "Heat Affected Zone" around the weld bead, that anneals all or part of the welded piece and the parent material nearest the weld bead.

Also, when welding on castings, there is the potential for issues like porosity, and generally a weld bead can shrink the surface which could cause stress.

I'd be curious about a couple of things:

How did the original crack start?
How was the crack prepared prior to the weld?
What is the roundness of the cylinder bore nearest the weld?
Have the threads in the welded area lost strength (soft due to annealing)?
Why was the engine removed?
How many miles, if any, had been accumulated after the weld repair?

Couldn't have said it better. I don't have weldability concerns - time and money and it can be done. The concern is distortion to precision machined inner diameters without the means to correct them. This is a coming from a guy that runs both precision machining operations as well as a weld division that puts down thousands of lbs of various metals on a monthly basis.

[pbonsalb]

I’d be more concerned about the crash that broke part of the block. Who knows what else happened or how thoroughly it was fixed.

[jvictormp]

Thanks for the considerations, guys.

A clean block for 3k, as drrust mentioned, seems to be a good way to go.

By the way, I just remembered that the oil I bought in Mercado Livre (similar to ebay here in Latin America) was in a good price (not absurdly low, though), and there is half liter remaining in the garage. The seller is well reputed in the community.

Should I get a lab analysis on that oil to make sure it is genuine and not related to the problem?

[drrust]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

Thanks for the considerations, guys.

A clean block for 3k, as drrust mentioned, seems to be a good way to go.

By the way, I just remembered that the oil I bought in Mercado Livre (similar to ebay here in Latin America) was in a good price (not absurdly low, though), and there is half liter remaining in the garage. The seller is well reputed in the community.

Should I get a lab analysis on that oil to make sure it is genuine and not related to the problem?

Analysis of the oil would only be worth while if the system to make a claim was straightforward and low cost. I'm not sure how legal suits are handled in Brazil, but in the U.S. it would take significant time and likely money to make it through the legal process. As the remaining oil you have is in an open container, they could claim you had tampered with the sample.

You are better off waiting until you take the motor apart and see what actually failed.

[Davisca455]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

Thanks for the considerations, guys.

A clean block for 3k, as drrust mentioned, seems to be a good way to go.

By the way, I just remembered that the oil I bought in Mercado Livre (similar to ebay here in Latin America) was in a good price (not absurdly low, though), and there is half liter remaining in the garage. The seller is well reputed in the community.

Should I get a lab analysis on that oil to make sure it is genuine and not related to the problem?

The oil analysis wouldn't necessarily be a complete waste of time though.

If the analysis came back clean, you could at least rule it out as a possible contributing factor, and you might gain some confidence about the seller for future purchases.

If the oil analysis shows an issue, then you might have at least a possible contributing factor, and you'd know not to purchase from that seller in the future.

[jp1984]

Every time I see this thread I get a little bummed out at losing another S65, good luck friend, I hope you find a reasonable solution soon!

[jvictormp]

I'm getting an engine winch, and an engine support, and I'm gonna disassemble that m*****f**k*er all at home.

Already got a car lifter couple of days before blowing the engine.

Found a great channel on youtube about that, named Sarka on the Ring.

I plan to begin the job by 10th September.

You sure can expect me to show up with many many questions after that.

[jp1984]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

I'm getting an engine winch, and an engine support, and I'm gonna disassemble that m*****f**k*er all at home.

Already got a car lifter couple of days before blowing the engine.

Found a great channel on youtube about that, named Sarka on the Ring.

I plan to begin the job by 10th September.

You sure can expect me to show up with many many question after that.

Good luck, sincerely, you are doing the lords work.

Just, eh, consider weighing how much all this is costing vs a replacement engine though.

I wish I had your drive and determination!

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by jp1984

Good luck, sincerely, you are doing the lords work.

Just, eh, consider weighing how much all this is costing vs a replacement engine though.

I wish I had your drive and determination!

I think I'll need a new engine anyway, even though I won't have the money right now.

Would have to pay someone to disassemble the engine and tell me what the hell happened, otherwise I would die of curiosity.

So, between paying someone to do, or using that money to buy tools and doing it myself, I'm the kind of person who prefers the later.

[Denny347]

Originally Posted by Green-Eggs

Saying you're seeing a trend with a specific bearing brand means you should have the data to back that up. I'm glad you're cleaning up and walking back that comment.

As a BE reseller, nobody follows this topic closer than we do. So let me tell you what I've seen: there is no trend -- with BE or any others. The number of failures are so few between all of them combined that you can literally count them on less than your 10 fingers. At least with BE, they don't sweep anything under the carpet and they discuss everything in public, post pictures, root cause analysis, etc. BE is always there to help educate and inform. Too bad the other vendors don't.

And THIS is why I waited and spent the money on BE/ARP for my car.