Apple CarPlay/Android Auto Retrofit

[Vuu]

Originally Posted by Iyzmi

I'm digging back through posts 20+ pages ago and a relay does appear to be necessary for 6MT cars; not sure why PDC can't be leveraged to signal the backup camera. Not a big deal, just have to add a couple more parts to the shopping list.

I needed a relay with my AVIN unit because once the car is in reverse and the engine is on, the signal drops below 12v, thus causing inconsistent performance with the camera. If the engine is off and the ignition is on, the power is constant and the camera stays on.

I'm not sure if one is needed now since it seems like no one is running the AvinUSA unit, but if you want see how I hooked up my relay, shoot me a PM.

[bighindu79]

Originally Posted by danzio2020

Thanks that worked perfect with my RoadTop/CarSara box. No need to run an aux cord with those parameters coded!

If not using the iDrive controller cable you’ll need to disconnect the CAN headunit from the CAN carplay plug and add put the little CAN loop to the headunit CAN plug.

Does anyone know if these parameters can be coded with Carly? I looked up their documentation and googled but couldn't get an answer.

[icanturn]

I would assume so.

[Iyzmi]

I just checked and did not see those parameters in Carly.

[bighindu79]

Originally Posted by Iyzmi

I just checked and did not see those parameters in Carly.

thanks. I guess I got to break out my old windows laptop and brush up on ncsexpert. its been a few years since I last coded anything. its a shame Carly can't do this but bimmercode for half the price can.

[cannyjock]

Originally Posted by motoridersd

Ok, now that it is all done. I am pretty happy with it. This is such a UX improvement over Bluetooth or having an old iPhone in the armrest. Audio quality is pretty good to me.

I took out an iPad and spent some time adjusting the EQ on the Carsara settings by comparing sound from the USB direct connection on the iPad to the AUX output into the armrest. I can definitely notice the hiss of the analog connection when nothing is playing and the volume is on the high end. I doubt this would go away with the headunit AUX, maybe it'll be less noticeable.

I wouldn't call myself an audiophile but I like my sound to be of a certain "body". I like noticeable bass (when needed) and a good "soundstage" without mids or highs beeing overly present. I wasn't able to get the audio to sound exactly the same as the iPad, but, I got the Android Auto/Carsara Audio to sound pretty good. I might try again another time, but as of now the difference was basically a little bit in maybe mid-highs. Maybe the Carsara EQ doesn't allow me to fine tune those, but the bass sounds perfect. I tested some of my favorite songs and they sound great.

My steering wheel voice button calls up Google Assistant, but only when Android Auto is on the screen. The microphone works perfectly and it understands every command.

I had to disconnect my Pixel 5's BMW Bluetooth profile so the calls would go through the Carsara. They sound great, will have to see how I sound to others.

One issue I have is that Bluetooth A2DP does not work. I tried connecting only the iPad to Bluetooth (without the USB cable connected) and I got no audio at all. Not sure why. It's not a big deal because I don't expect to be using Bluetooth anytime soon, but would be nice to fix.

Another issue is that I thought the Android Auto screen would launch on its own after starting the car, but this doesn't seem to be the case. I have to hit the Menu button for 3 seconds for the screen to appear. Autoplay of my music did not work the first few times, but was working by the last time I tried.

Could you share your EQ settings please?

[cannyjock]

Originally Posted by bighindu79

thanks. I guess I got to break out my old windows laptop and brush up on ncsexpert. its been a few years since I last coded anything. its a shame Carly can't do this but bimmercode for half the price can.

Yes, you can code with Bimmercode but not Carly.

[akkando]

Originally Posted by cannyjock

Yes, you can code with Bimmercode but not Carly.

Do you have to do this before the install? People were saying you can't code the module after the hardware install?

[cannyjock]

Originally Posted by akkando

Do you have to do this before the install? People were saying you can't code the module after the hardware install?

Have a read of the thread, you need to use the full iDrive harness if you want to code it after.

[bighindu79]

Originally Posted by cannyjock

Yes, you can code with Bimmercode but not Carly.

Coded with ncsexpert (took me about 20-30 mins to brush up on ncsexpert otherwise it would have been a 2 minutes job) and I can definitely hear a marked improvement in sound quality of AUX without even messing with the eq settings. I think I now have a perfect retrofit. If someone can post a picture of their eq settings in Carsara that gives the best possible sound quality that would be greatly appreciated.

[icanturn]

Originally Posted by icanturn

I just bought the Libemaya unit. If it turns out to be junk then I sacrifice my time in the name of science. lol.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...BA31B1Q6&psc=1

Tried to install this today. It also doesn't fit. Super weird. The trunk release switch hits the indent for the BMW emblem and wont let it sit in flush. Same issue as the aliexpress one I got. Im starting to think my trunk is the issue somehow but the oem one fits perfect. Dunno.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by icanturn

Tried to install this today. It also doesn't fit. Super weird. The trunk release switch hits the indent for the BMW emblem and wont let it sit in flush. Same issue as the aliexpress one I got. Im starting to think my trunk is the issue somehow but the oem one fits perfect. Dunno.

Are you trying to go in with the edge closest to the license plate first? Or the edge closest to the rear of the car first?

All 4 of my cameras were the exact same physical part, so I don't know if the other ones have an issue or if there is a difference between the E90 and E92 or E93 trunks?

[icanturn]

I'm going in with the top of the camera first.
[IMG][/IMG]

[bighindu79]

Originally Posted by cannyjock

Could you share your EQ settings please?

+1 on the EQ settings request

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by icanturn

I'm going in with the top of the camera first.
[IMG][/IMG]

Yeah what I'm saying is do the opposite. I think as you try to slide it up you're hitting.

If you hook it on the outermost/rearmost edge first (closest to the camera lense), then rock it back you should be able to get it in and you won't interfere. It required a hard push to get that rear lip to seat but eventually it snapped for me.

[PandaM3]

Is there any kit that works 100% with no issues? That I can just have a shop like EAS install and I won't have any issues after? I wouldn't want EAS to install it and then keep coming back to switch wires or settings or any changes.

Seems like everyone here has some sort of issue.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by PandaM3

Is there any kit that works 100% with no issues? That I can just have a shop like EAS install and I won't have any issues after? I wouldn't want EAS to install it and then keep coming back to switch wires or settings or any changes.

Seems like everyone here has some sort of issue.

The thread is hard to follow. The Carsara unit has no issues if you code it first. Some of us bought the unit before someone figured out how to code the Aux settings so we were guinea pigs.

I don't know that EAS will necessarily know how to do that for you unless they're lurking here for reference. You may have to spell out to code those options (or get a coder to do that first) then have them do the install.

FWIW the install on this is pretty easy. You can watch the Bimmertech video to get a sense of the complexity but they spell out every step for you. Just need a few torx bits and a $5 pick set + trim set from harbor freight.

[PandaM3]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

The thread is hard to follow. The Carsara unit has no issues if you code it first. Some of us bought the unit before someone figured out how to code the Aux settings so we were guinea pigs.

I don't know that EAS will necessarily know how to do that for you unless they're lurking here for reference. You may have to spell out to code those options (or get a coder to do that first) then have them do the install.

FWIW the install on this is pretty easy. You can watch the Bimmertech video to get a sense of the complexity but they spell out every step for you. Just need a few torx bits and a $5 pick set + trim set from harbor freight.

I don't have time to install it myself which is why I'd have a shop do it. And if I need to get it coded by someone else before the shop installs it then this likely isn't an option.

Just interesting though that there's no SoCal shop that carries such units and be willing to stand behind its install for at least a year.

For instance if for example Bavsound offered such a head unit together with their speakers and guaranteed it would work id jump on it.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by PandaM3

I don't have time to install it myself which is why I'd have a shop do it. And if I need to get it coded by someone else before the shop installs it then this likely isn't an option.

Just interesting though that there's no SoCal shop that carries such units and be willing to stand behind its install for at least a year.

For instance if for example Bavsound offered such a head unit together with their speakers and guaranteed it would work id jump on it.

If you have more money than time I'd just go with the Bimmertech unit.

You don't need to code the unit. Bimmertech sells basically the same MMI Prime unit, run through the 3.5mm jack and their customers all seem happy even though it likely has the exact same deficiencies. Most people are completely content with the standard audio quality via Aux.

They have a bunch of installers in the LA area, you'll probably spend about $1200-1500 though for what is otherwise a ~$300 DIY (assuming you needed to buy the unit, camera, tools, and coding dongle).

If you paid someone $100 for the remote coding session, without the rear view camera, it's probably a 3 hour DIY for a novice and you can avoid any wiring it's purely plug and play. That's ~$300+ hour.

[PandaM3]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

If you have more money than time I'd just go with the Bimmertech unit.

You don't need to code the unit. Bimmertech sells basically the same MMI Prime unit, run through the 3.5mm jack and their customers all seem happy even though it likely has the exact same deficiencies. Most people are completely content with the standard audio quality via Aux.

They have a bunch of installers in the LA area, you'll probably spend about $1200-1500 though for what is otherwise a ~$300 DIY (assuming you needed to buy the unit, camera, tools, and coding dongle).

If you paid someone $100 for the remote coding session, without the rear view camera, it's probably a 3 hour DIY for a novice and you can avoid any wiring it's purely plug and play. That's ~$300+ hour.

Oh good... Bimmertech has a list of SoCal shops that they've used.

Maybe I'll contact those shops and see if they've done any non bimmertech Android units.

I don't mind paying $599 for the bimmertech Android unit but then you pay as much for all the add ons. I wonder if those shops can do the bimmertech Unit but use their own generic interfaces for cheaper to get Apple airplay and rear view camera and still offer a gaurantee that it all works.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by PandaM3

Oh good... Bimmertech has a list of SoCal shops that they've used.

Maybe I'll contact those shops and see if they've done any non bimmertech Android units.

I don't mind paying $599 for the bimmertech Android unit but then you pay as much for all the add ons. I wonder if those shops can do the bimmertech Unit but use their own generic interfaces for cheaper to get Apple airplay and rear view camera and still offer a gaurantee that it all works.

The installation is identical. I'm not sure what you mean by "use generic interfaces". It's a single piggyback box with wires. The Camera Bimmertech will sell you for $200 is identical to one of the $30 ones linked above.

I'll happily box you a kit with some english instructions and a link to the Bimmertech video for only $500 ;-)

[PandaM3]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

The installation is identical. I'm not sure what you mean by "use generic interfaces". It's a single piggyback box with wires. The Camera Bimmertech will sell you for $200 is identical to one of the $30 ones linked above.

I'll happily box you a kit with some english instructions and a link to the Bimmertech video for only $500 ;-)

By generic I meant the $30 add ons... would be interesting if the bimmertech facilities can use those add ons instead of bimmertech.