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01-23-2011, 08:14 PM | #1 |
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Tiny Black tar spots/dots on white car..
How the hell do u get these off when washing car?
I use a micro fiber cleaning sponge pad and I find myself having to pinch a little section of the pad to firmly scrub those with my fingernail and some come off while other spots turn into a brown streak like 1-3 mm long. Is there any easier way to clean off tar dots without using abrasives on the clear coat? |
01-23-2011, 08:19 PM | #2 |
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I would recommend "Stoners" TARMINATOR it never fails! just be sure to wax or seal your paint after using the product....
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01-23-2011, 08:31 PM | #3 | |
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01-23-2011, 08:53 PM | #4 |
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I just want to wash tar off n go. No time for waxing n sealing. But I also don't want to let the specs collect for 3 months in between zainos n claying. Ny other ways?
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01-23-2011, 10:36 PM | #5 |
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You can just wipe and go with this product, I just always suggest the wax as a form of protection since you will be removing any wax that may be on there....but if that doesn't matter, than your good to go!......JMO
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01-24-2011, 04:34 PM | #6 |
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Inevitable and quite noticeable on a white car. Best way to remove them is claying, which should be part of your periodic details. You could also try Tarminator as suggested above, and I've done this a couple of times, but that removes all your protection so you have to re-seal/wax afterward. That's just too much work during normal washes (and unrealistic, really, if your car is a DD). Its best to just accept it and then remove periodically. I clay my car about twice a year.
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01-24-2011, 05:40 PM | #7 | ||
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Here is the spray wax I like to use while drying: Lucas Slick Mist Believe it or not that was the only product used on the paint on my car for the IND photo shoot in my link below! This stuff is super quick and easy to use and gives a nice slippery surface with a nice shine in between waxing. Quote:
Let clay be a last resort. Try and keep your paint clean by regularly washing your car and using a chemical like Tarminator for stubborn spots that aren't removed by washing. I would only clay the areas that your tar remover chemical can't take care of. Remember Clay is an abrasive and does introduce micro marring to your paint even when done correctly. I usually only clay my entire car before I intend to polish it.
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Last edited by BMRLVR; 01-24-2011 at 05:49 PM.. |
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01-24-2011, 07:43 PM | #8 |
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Clay as a "last resort" is a little harsh IMO. But I see what you mean, and clay should definitely only be used by people who know how to use it. Micro-marring caused by proper clay use should be very minimal. There are some extremely gentle (almost too gentle) clay bars out there.
I always polish after claying anyway. If polishing is not to occur afterward, then chemicals may be the better option as long as protection is reapplied. But claying is the only way to get everything off the surface, and is much easier than using chemicals in my experience. Chemicals work well on just the "tar" spots (as mentioned by the OP) but there are many other types of contamination that the chemicals don't seem to touch.
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01-24-2011, 11:04 PM | #9 |
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3m adhesive remover works pretty good with tar. You could also try some P21S Total Auto Wash or 1Z Industrial Cleaner (don't get it on plastic!)
With p21s you can let it sit there all day, but I wouldnt leave 1Z industrial on the paint more than about a minute... Its some strong stuff. And make sure you use gloves with it too... Some got on my skin and it didn't end up so well. |
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01-25-2011, 07:40 PM | #10 |
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Claying is designed to pick up small impurities in your paint and absorb them into the clay. To accept a piece of tar into the clay when there are so many other ways to remove it seems wasteful, as surely you'd be reluctant to use the clay bar again ???
In Australia we have a product called WD40 (not sure if its OS), it is a spray on oil designed to be a lubricant. Spray this onto any spot with tar, leave it for 5 minutes then just hose off. It is an oil so will not eat into your paint, it merely sits on top and works its way into the imperfection. I have used it for years. |
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01-26-2011, 01:03 PM | #11 |
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I've heard people saying that the WD40 can stain the white paint.
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01-26-2011, 01:20 PM | #12 | |
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What he said! I use it all the time on AW, and it works great!
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01-27-2011, 01:28 PM | #13 |
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01-27-2011, 01:57 PM | #14 |
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Yeah I've used WD40 already in the past on the other green car I have, and it removes easily the tar. You just see the tar leaking down the car, like oil. Then with water and soap goes out easily. But I've never used it on a white car.
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01-27-2011, 11:13 PM | #15 | |
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I occasionally use Tarminator and it works very well on tar spots. I just hate the fact that you have to re-protect afterwards, so I typically wait until I'm doing a full detail (or at least a full seal) on the car before I take Tarminator to it. My comments about clay above were in reference to complete de-contamination of the paint surface. That's an essential part of the full detail process, and clay is the only way to fully do it. WD40 is interesting...hadn't thought of that and have obviously never tried it but I see no need to do so because Tarminator works just fine.
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06-04-2013, 06:45 AM | #16 |
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Up to today I have used Clay and Tar remover to get that black stupid tar out of my paint and wheels, and both of them work as a charm.
After you remover tar, you should always wax the car. The more you wax it, the easier it becomes to remove tar in the tar. That is why in my car, the tar is removed every 2-3 weeks and waxed immediately. |
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06-04-2013, 11:19 AM | #17 |
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Try to repeat this 3 times really fast! There is a lot of tar going on in this post
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06-04-2013, 12:04 PM | #18 | |
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06-04-2013, 01:30 PM | #19 |
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