Track forum general chit chat.

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

You'll like the way it feels more than you dislike the whine.

How's the diy?

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by Bartledoo

How's the diy?

It was too much to handle in my driveway. I only have two jack stands and two hydro jacks. Then you have to have a bushing press tool and align the car.

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

It was too much to handle in my driveway. I only have two jack stands and two hydro jacks. Then you have to have a bushing press tool and align the car.

Align the car? I already have aluminum subframe bushings. I'm talking about just swapping the poly diff bushings to aluminum.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by Bartledoo

Align the car? I already have aluminum subframe bushings. I'm talking about just swapping the poly diff bushings to aluminum.

Ohhh. Probably easy enough.

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

Ohhh. Probably easy enough.

My friend is telling me the subframe needs to come out for the solid differential bushings to go in. I'm hoping somebody has figured out a clever way to get the aluminum bushings in without doing that, since the polyurethane bushings should come out pretty easily.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by Bartledoo

My friend is telling me the subframe needs to come out for the solid differential bushings to go in. I'm hoping somebody has figured out a clever way to get the aluminum bushings in without doing that, since the polyurethane bushings should come out pretty easily.

you know, now that i'm thinking about it- the way the subframe is situated, you won't be able to get a bushing press in there.

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

you know, now that i'm thinking about it- the way the subframe is situated, you won't be able to get a bushing press in there.

Well damn I figured there must be another way. That sucks. The poly bushing was pretty beat up but I replaced the bolt and will avoid wheel hop and cross my fingers it lasts the rest of the season. It was the passenger side bolt when I broke one before the upgrade. This time it was the driver side, so that's interesting. In retrospect, the metal sleeve of the powerflex bushings has a very narrow outer diameter, and it seems it should be wider to give more contact surface with the polyurethane portion.

Anyways, has anybody else noticed how fast the supra is on track stock!?

[derbo]

Originally Posted by Bartledoo

Anyways, has anybody else noticed how fast the supra is on track stock!?

Supra in those journalist tests are identical to the M2C at Laguna and that's the 2020 version with the "332hp" rated engine. The new 2021 has 50hp more.


Edit:

Just came by from a track day at Thunderhill.

This is my first time editing Racerender with Aim solo data and GoPro. Oops on the right/left turn data being flipped.. :X

DSC/ABS/FTM all popped up on my error message on the freeway drive home. I cleared it last night and did a mini test drive and its back again. Hmmm. I wonder if it is wheel sensors?

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by derbo

Supra in those journalist tests are identical to the M2C at Laguna and that's the 2020 version with the "332hp" rated engine. The new 2021 has 50hp more.

Judging by the huge body movement, they don't even have a remotely track oriented spring/damper setup; but stock on RE71R they are within a second of what Dundon's local pro driver was able to do with a 718 GT4 (on Cup 2) here at the Ridge.

Jackie Ding drove a stock one on A052 within a half second of what the pro driver did in the GT4, and it was his first time ever at the track. Super impressive.

[evilspiritM3]

Originally Posted by derbo

Supra in those journalist tests are identical to the M2C at Laguna and that's the 2020 version with the "332hp" rated engine. The new 2021 has 50hp more.


Edit:

Just came by from a track day at Thunderhill.

DSC/ABS/FTM all popped up on my error message on the freeway drive home. I cleared it last night and did a mini test drive and its back again. Hmmm. I wonder if it is wheel sensors?

What codes is it throwing?

[derbo]

Originally Posted by evilspiritM3

What codes is it throwing?

Going to check in a few.


Edit:

DSC: Wheel sensor rear left.

I removed the sensor, cleaned the sensor itself and disconnected/reconnected with no luck. Looks like I'll order a new sensor.

[///Mobbin]

Curious if anyone knows the PID/formula for raw oil level in our cars? Or is it available in BMW Tools / INPA somewhere?

Considering purchasing the Carly app for this: LINK

Basically allows for manual oil level readings without having to drive around for ages.

[evilspiritM3]

Originally Posted by derbo

Going to check in a few.


Edit:

DSC: Wheel sensor rear left.

I removed the sensor, cleaned the sensor itself and disconnected/reconnected with no luck. Looks like I'll order a new sensor.

Well that's easy enough and not expensive. Glad it was something simple. I had a weird over-voltage issue where I fried all 4 at once. Gave me the same sort of errors on the dash.

[derbo]

Originally Posted by evilspiritM3

Well that's easy enough and not expensive. Glad it was something simple. I had a weird over-voltage issue where I fried all 4 at once. Gave me the same sort of errors on the dash.

Yikes. Was there an issue with the DSC module?

[evilspiritM3]

Originally Posted by derbo

Yikes. Was there an issue with the DSC module?

I have a poltergeist li-ion battery and there was an over-voltage fault on the yaw sensor and all 4 wheel speed sensors came back with over voltage as well. Yaw sensor was fine. Just needed new sensors. DSC module was fine too thankfully. Randomly happened overnight or when I started the car in the am. Happened in the middle of a track weekend so I learned how to drive without any electronics really quickly.

[derbo]

Originally Posted by evilspiritM3

I have a poltergeist li-ion battery and there was an over-voltage fault on the yaw sensor and all 4 wheel speed sensors came back with over voltage as well. Yaw sensor was fine. Just needed new sensors. DSC module was fine too thankfully. Randomly happened overnight or when I started the car in the am. Happened in the middle of a track weekend so I learned how to drive without any electronics really quickly.

That is very interesting.


I swapped my left rear sensor over to the right side and the error followed to the right. I ordered an ATE sensor from FCP earlier today so hopefully it comes by the weekend.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by evilspiritM3

I have a poltergeist li-ion battery and there was an over-voltage fault on the yaw sensor and all 4 wheel speed sensors came back with over voltage as well. Yaw sensor was fine. Just needed new sensors. DSC module was fine too thankfully. Randomly happened overnight or when I started the car in the am. Happened in the middle of a track weekend so I learned how to drive without any electronics really quickly.

i had a weird thing happen with an early iteration of an antigravity battery. the car doesn't charge the battery when the rpm's are high, and the battery kept shutting off while i was driving and the car would go into a sort of limp mode where it would hiccup and shift straight to 7th gear. then when i shut off the car, it would act like there was zero battery hooked up. they have since resolved this issue from what i've heard.

[kyippee]

Thunderhill East was rough on Sunday since temps were >100F ambient, the air was full of smoke due to the fires, and humidity was high. Start/finish straightaway top speed was 122 mph instead of my usual 132 mph. The most fun was running into an FP350s driven by a great driver, I saw him hauling ass and went off-line:

Also hilarious but sad video of me hurting ears when I had left pit:

[spooni]

Can someone help with tire pressures? Cold/hot

Just put on my new federal 595 RSpros, 275/35/18.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by spooni

Can someone help with tire pressures? Cold/hot

Just put on my new federal 595 RSpros, 275/35/18.

Adjust it based upon the tire wear and handling. Some tire manufacturers provide recommendations but typically that's for the race stuff (Hoosier, etc). There is no single correct answer.

Rule of thumb I have heard is 1psi per 100 pounds of vehicle weight. So for 3500 pounds, you want 35psi hot at most...probably a little bit less.

[spooni]

Originally Posted by dparm

Adjust it based upon the tire wear and handling. Some tire manufacturers provide recommendations but typically that's for the race stuff (Hoosier, etc). There is no single correct answer.

Rule of thumb I have heard is 1psi per 100 pounds of vehicle weight. So for 3500 pounds, you want 35psi hot at most...probably a little bit less.

Thanks!

I was planning on that, same as my old 340tws.. Just wasn't sure if it changed much going down to something slightly stickier

[spooni]

Originally Posted by kyippee

Thunderhill East was rough on Sunday since temps were >100F ambient, the air was full of smoke due to the fires, and humidity was high. Start/finish straightaway top speed was 122 mph instead of my usual 132 mph. The most fun was running into an FP350s driven by a great driver, I saw him hauling ass and went off-line:

Also hilarious but sad video of me hurting ears when I had left pit:

Nice!!!