Track forum general chit chat.

[kyippee]

Originally Posted by gmx

Hmm I have noticed some cars have different caster pretty much as a direct result of the top plate. Are yours JRZs?
I've noticed since going to a Bilstein top plate I've lost about 1deg where Mvez's thread has no actual caster just said "it's same as stock"
Vorshlags on middle setting (other settings are useless due to it's impact on camber) were still only around 6deg each total.
~Might be a 1M thing.~ Nope, stock they have 7deg.

CAD'ing up a new top plate to get to -4 without hella flushing the car and possibly adding caster holes. Inverted damper FTW.

JRZ RS One dampers with Ground Control race camber plates. I actually don't know much about caster... anything good or bad about how it's set up now?

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by kpewpew

JRZ RS One dampers with Ground Control race camber plates. I actually don't know much about caster... anything good or bad about how it's set up now?

Are you noticing anything bad?

One of the benefits positive caster is your wheels/steering wheel tend to center themselves. Great for easily unwinding the wheel out of a corner, but too much caster will make it more difficult to hold the wheel in place while cornering. There are a few other things affected but usually with too much positive or negative caster.

[kyippee]

@Ximian thanks! Nothing bad felt so far. So I guess we can leave it as is!

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by Bartledoo

I can't bring myself to pull the speakers out. My DD Eurovan had the WORST stereo ever. I use a damn cassette adapter in it haha

My eurovan sucked too lmao

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

My eurovan sucked too lmao

Bruh...that is clearly an Amerivan.

Nice skirts though.

[gmx]

Originally Posted by kpewpew

JRZ RS One dampers with Ground Control race camber plates. I actually don't know much about caster... anything good or bad about how it's set up now?

Is good and seems what they tend to be with standard tops.
You'd only want less/more to centre the damper shaft in the access hole and maximise potential negative camber as that's more beneficial. It's the primary reason no one messes with the caster settings on either the GC/Vorshlag plate. Unless they notch the towers. Weight reduction

This doesn't matter with an inverted damper since it sits below the strut tower plane. I can effectively slide the top nut/damper shaft underneath the access hole and be ok. Problem is my Bilstein plate has about 5-10mm meat to fill out the tower more. More material, more slider room hence Mvez had GC draw something up. I might go custom even though the GC plate is probably more ideal. For the fun of it and our exchange rate sucks right now.

[kyippee]

Oh yeah, check out this smoke show I put on in the first session on Saturday. One of my front wheels was a brand new tire due to a prior tire puncture. The rest were used. Lap 3, I decided to try giving it some proper hard braking and....

[OG Shark]

Anyone have a good comparison of Pirelli DH slicks vs Hoosier A7?

[ThunderMoose]

Originally Posted by OG Shark

Anyone have a good comparison of Pirelli DH slicks vs Hoosier A7?

I had similar times on both. I think the pirellis seem to stay consistent longer, but for TT A7's are a no brainer.

[OG Shark]

Originally Posted by ThunderMoose

I had similar times on both. I think the pirellis seem to stay consistent longer, but for TT A7's are a no brainer.

Awesome, thanks ThunderMoose. So for TT - I assume the no brainer comes from the combo of price, comparable pace, & how quick they turn on, right?

So what I am wondering is for ST. Since there is not much (read nothing...) happening in ST3 in our region I guess I am going to run in ST2. With my modifiers I would be running at ~ 9.4:1. There is not much more room to cut weight without going to places I don't want to go to for wheel to wheel racing. Power is pretty much where it is going to be, maybe can get a bit more out of it. Either way I'm well off the 8:1 minimum for ST2 & could easily absorb the penalty for non DOT tires. But if the pace is only comparable then I'm not sure they would be of benefit there either? The longer time to get to temp might actually be a negative in these short races & short warm up to green flag?

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by Bartledoo

Bruh...that is clearly an Amerivan.

Nice skirts though.

lol it's a Bmw!

[ThunderMoose]

Originally Posted by OG Shark

Awesome, thanks ThunderMoose. So for TT - I assume the no brainer comes from the combo of price, comparable pace, & how quick they turn on, right?

So what I am wondering is for ST. Since there is not much (read nothing...) happening in ST3 in our region I guess I am going to run in ST2. With my modifiers I would be running at ~ 9.4:1. There is not much more room to cut weight without going to places I don't want to go to for wheel to wheel racing. Power is pretty much where it is going to be, maybe can get a bit more out of it. Either way I'm well off the 8:1 minimum for ST2 & could easily absorb the penalty for non DOT tires. But if the pace is only comparable then I'm not sure they would be of benefit there either? The longer time to get to temp might actually be a negative in these short races & short warm up to green flag?

For me, in TT3, my raw wt/hp is 9.4. I run 245 A7's and get +.6 modifier. If I was to run slicks, I'd have to to take -0.5. Basically, I'd have to shave 35 hp or add nearly 400 lbs. To no really benefit for Time Trials, as they are on par for the first few laps and sessions.

That being said, If I was in ST2 and had room in my wt/hp, I would consider slicks.

The other point is who's offering contingency. Hoosier has a nice contingency as does Toyo and Bridgestone. I don't think Pirelli does. In 2017, I managed to win 12 tires. Contingency matters.

[Ximian]

I left foot brake on my DCT and with the tiny brake pedal, it's really hard to keep my left heel stable. The Schroth QFP should help that a bit, but I'd like to eliminate it as a problem entirely. Heel stops (e.g. https://www.joesracing.com/product/joes-heel-stop/ ) aren't something I can easily install on my daily driver. The non-slip rug pads don't seem like they would work when you dig your heel in.

Any other options out there?

[roastbeef]

I loosely follow different kinds of racing and found this to be particularly interesting. Active toe changes with a push/pull of the steering wheel. Pretty neat.

[gmx]

Somehow FIA will say that's movable aero :P

And technically, it is. For anyone interested, aero on open wheelers is about managed the wash and turbulence created from the tyres (hence a massive amount of resources thrown at endplates up till 2019). There's also history of teams that had to completely fundamentally change their aero when switching from Bridgestone to Michelin back in the day.

[Grillpt]

It's not active aero (although it may have some effect) it's active suspension, which is banned under FIA rules. IMO there's no way this should be allowed on the car when the lights go out in Australia. JA says they've been in contact with the FIA about the system for some time and it should be legal, but I don't see how..

[roastbeef]

I'd articulate it as steering. Which it mostly is. Depends on interpretation.

[roastbeef]

This bad boy was on sale and I pointed out a little scuff for a bigger discount. $800 for this biggie. Great quality, too.

[OG Shark]

Originally Posted by Ximian

I left foot brake on my DCT and with the tiny brake pedal, it's really hard to keep my left heel stable. The Schroth QFP should help that a bit, but I'd like to eliminate it as a problem entirely. Heel stops (e.g. https://www.joesracing.com/product/joes-heel-stop/ ) aren't something I can easily install on my daily driver. The non-slip rug pads don't seem like they would work when you dig your heel in.

Any other options out there?

I just transitioned to left foot braking & prefer it much more now. The harness will make a huge difference. Another big help would be to swap out to a wider pedal - makes it so much more comfortable and natural. I still have the small pedal on my street E90 M3 and it’s much more uncomfortable to keep the left foot that far right for me. I still do it though - I’m driving everything without a third pedal like this to help ingrain some muscle memory. Makes hopping in a manual a bit more interesting though.

As far as grip on the floor - assuming you still have carpet - maybe cut out the area where you rest your heel and then build it back up with grip tape? Then just takes the floor mat to cover it up.

[tdott]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

I'd articulate it as steering. Which it mostly is. Depends on interpretation.

I agree, it is a steering function not suspension.
A steering wheel changes toe, this just does it in a different way.

Which I'm assuming is the loophole they presented to the FIA and they have apparently worked with them throughout on the legality.

[gmx]

Toe angle changes the aero profile. A dead straight tyre's toe angle has less frontal area which would result in less drag. Remember esp in open wheelers drag is not just from the scrub/roll. I imagine that's the aero interpretation other teams will be angling from.
Secondly it also looks like the complete upright moves inboard rather than jus toe.

Active systems are not driver controlled. He is clearing doing something manually. It's just like brake bias is on the wheel via a button and no longer done by a lever like good ol' MSC use to fiddle with a lot.
The F duct is another example. Not moving/flexing aero but driver manually doing something to stall the rear wing.

[roastbeef]

turning the wheel changes are aero profile as well.

this is a big problem for other teams if this is allowed- longer front tire life, less scrub in straights, toe for turning, tire temp management...