How often do you replace your studs and lug nuts?

[Estoril Blue]

Originally Posted by CorruptCommie

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Wai...vZSePwdDO/view

Thx. What is that donut collar used at 0:40 ?

[CorruptCommie]

Originally Posted by Estoril Blue

Thx. What is that donut collar used at 0:40 ?

Lisle wheel stud installer

[SQ13]

Originally Posted by CorruptCommie

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Wai...vZSePwdDO/view

The rotor shield has been removed. F

[Estoril Blue]

Originally Posted by SQ13

The rotor shield has been removed. F

That changes the appeal. (Unless I drill a dole in the shield a bit larger than the stud and then rotate it to allow the stud to travel rear).

[DRLane]

I just received the M12 pressed stud / hubs from Core4 and figured I'd share a couple pictures before installing.

I strongly considered the FC M14 conversion hubs, but couldn't wrap my head around the thread-in vs press-in strength debates which I'll leave to the engineers. But I can value the ~$900 savings. Note I did speak with Tom and he's very willing to build a test hub using M14 press-in studs for someone interested. Again, I considered it but didn't want to drill out out my rotor hats.

Note, here's a video of the Thunder Bunny Racing E92 M3 making a pass at the WRL Championships at COTA late November. I believe they podium finished? Nonetheless they completed 700 laps on the Core4 M12 solution with no issues which is likely more stress than I'll ever put on my car. Shitty video (sorry), but their E92 sounds insane!!!

Anyhow, I'll get some pictures of the install. The fronts look pretty simple DIY, while I'll likely pay a shop to swap the rears. Removing the hub and bearings looks like a PITA.

Lastly note the instructions regarding the torque notes. Curious if the dry lug nuts on aluminum wheels could account for some of the stud failures?

[Estoril Blue]

Thanks for that update.

Re: the memo - I wonder which dry lubricant they have in mind re: MSI stud seat faces.

[gills]

Hey guys/gals,

Tom from Core4 here. I'm pretty sure I've been talking to a couple of you guys directly and I truly appreciate the interest. If anyone else has any other questions, please don't hesitate to reach out to me directly.

The Thunderbunny E92 M3 actually finished P2 overall at the WRL Endurance Championship at COTA and yes, over 700 laps completed. We also had 3 cars (2 E46's and an E82; which shares the same front hub/bearing design has E9x M3) running our M12 hubs finish the NASA 25 Hours of Thunderhill last weekend with zero issues.

The memo regarding torque that DRLane shared was birthed from extensive testing we're conducting on a bench setup. Information derived from this testing will most likely evolve over time, but what we noted in the memo we felt was worth sharing now, since our recommendation for torque certainly won't go down, nor the lubrication recommendations.

You can read more about how that info came to be on our website: https://www.core4motorsports.com/tech

Re: Lubricants - so far we’ve found regular grade brushed on anti seize to work very well and also last before preload starts to decay at the same torque. Dry lubricant such as spray on moly or graphite do work, but their longevity isn’t as good as anti seize and need to be reapplied more often.

As for servicing the studs in the rear with the hub still on the car, you most certainly will not be able to service the 90mm studs in the rear. We confirmed that our version 2 75mm Core4/MSI studs can be serviced on the rear of E36M3/E46/M3. The V2 studs have a feature on the head to allow it to clear the bearing housing. Still need to confirm 100% on an E9x. Parking brake mostly likely needs to be removed, which is typically not an issue on dedicated races cars since it's already off. But, again, the idea is to minimize the chance of breaking, which going to a press-in stud does.

Pictured 90mm Core4/MSI stud, Long ARP stud option, 75mm Core4/MSI stud on right:


Anyway, thanks again for the interest.

-Tom

[Estoril Blue]

Tom, Thank you for that good update. I/we appreciate the time that you took to share that information and to give us some of the background of your testing on track and on the bench.

I look forward to any data, results or revision you can share as they become firm - including E46 M3 configurations that you noted.

Thanks!

Alan

[slicer]

Thank you Core4! Really interesting info. I (we) appreciate the knowledge share.

[gills]

Originally Posted by Estoril Blue

Tom, Thank you for that good update. I/we appreciate the time that you took to share that information and to give us some of the background of your testing on track and on the bench.

I look forward to any data, results or revision you can share as they become firm - including E46 M3 configurations that you noted.

Thanks!

Alan

Originally Posted by slicer

Thank you Core4! Really interesting info. I (we) appreciate the knowledge share.

My pleasure guys!

Also, I feel like it's worth noting that the Nissan GTR runs 12mm press-in studs, which is a pig at 3900 lbs(?) and is obviously no slouch on the track. They don't have issues breaking wheel studs. If any of you followed the NASA 25 Hours of Thunderhill event, Valkyrie Autosports runs a GTR in the ES class and won the class and got 5th overall. They also run a very fast 370Z, also no lightweight, in the same class that secured P3 also on 12mm studs.

What I'm getting at is that moving to a 14mm option may be appealing, but it's not necessary, especially when the strength and clamping capability of 12mm ARP/MSI studs is extraordinary when combined with the more robust and fatigue resistant geometry of a press-in stud.

[72dan]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

i'm not sure if it contributes or not, but i like to let them cool before i mess with them. if i'm swapping wheels at the end of the day, i'll be sure to get a generous cool down lap in, and then let the car sit for a little bit. i just feel like torquing to tighten/loosen when hot might not be healthy for them.

I have Bimmerworld premium race studs almost two years, not huge use, maybe 6-7 track days, just changed tires one was sheared don’t know when. But hard track days, a couple wheels bent from hitting apexes at ACS, streets and big willow. Paige RS29s cracked, etc. Wish I knew the wheels were bent before putting new tires on. Track use is hard on cars and the M3 is too heavy, my biggest gripe and weight eats parts.

[slicer]

Originally Posted by 72dan

I have Bimmerworld premium race studs almost two years, not huge use, maybe 6-7 track days, just changed tires one was sheared don’t know when. But hard track days, a couple wheels bent from hitting apexes at ACS, streets and big willow. Paige RS29s cracked, etc. Wish I knew the wheels were bent before putting new tires on. Track use is hard on cars and the M3 is too heavy, my biggest gripe and weight eats parts.

Curious- What type of wheels were bent?