Suspension help to unload rear control arm

[davedNconfused]

While trying to adjust the height of my Ohlins R/T suspension last year, I've managed to bind up the rubber insulator that goes between the top of the spring assembly and the chassis. This happens when the whole spring assembly turns instead of just the lower ring. I'd like to fix this prior to making more adjustments.

I have a new insulator to replace the damaged one, (thanks M4_GTS) but was looking for some guidance on how to unload the spring tension.



My plan is to place a jack under the control arm to provide some load then remove the bolts marked 1 and 2 (see image above). At this point, I'd expect the spring assembly to be loose enough that I can replace the rubber insulator and reinstall.

Questions:
1) Is this the right approach to unload the spring?
2) Thinking ahead to reinstallation, I found the torque specs of the two main bolts but do they require any special attention beyond that? Any need to mark their orientation before removing or requirement to replace them that I may not be aware of?

Looking to avoid getting myself into any unexpected situations so I'd appreciate any input anyone has. Thanks!

[M4_GTS]

Correct. Place a jack under the control arm and remove 1 and 2. No need to mark the bolts as they are just round and not those that can adjust camber.

Make sure you load up the suspension to ride height before torqued them down.

[davedNconfused]

Awesome, thanks again for the help and pointing out those tips!

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by davedNconfused

Awesome, thanks again for the help and pointing out those tips!

Just remove 1. no need to remove 2. There is also no need to torque either of those bolts at ride height but it WILL help to jack the lower camber arm up to get the strut bolted back up (1).

[d1ck]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

Just remove 1. no need to remove 2. There is also no need to torque either of those bolts at ride height but it WILL help to jack the lower camber arm up to get the strut bolted back up (1).

FYI if #1 is removed it should be torqued at ride height. It's a rubber bushing and torqueing it with the car lifted will result in that bushing constantly being twisted slightly. #2 is a ball joint and doesn't matter.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by d1ck

FYI if #1 is removed it should be torqued at ride height. It's a rubber bushing and torqueing it with the car lifted will result in that bushing constantly being twisted slightly. #2 is a ball joint and doesn't matter.

#1 is usually a bolt through application so it is free to pivot. The bolt does not act like a pinch bolt either the strut just sits there in the grooves. I can't see how it twists much either... doubt there is any advantage to torqueing that at ride height. Some coilers even use a uniball there too.