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      09-08-2020, 01:22 PM   #1
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Power Steering Pump DIY?

I've searched here, Google and YouTube, but can't find a DIY on this procedure.
Found solutions for idler pulleys, tensioners and leaking PS reservoirs, but nothing for the pump replacement itself.
Does anyone know what all of the "secret handshakes" are for removal of the pump?


Thanks,
Chris
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      09-10-2020, 07:44 PM   #2
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Got it close, but I'm not clever enough to get the PS pump all the way out.
The suction line is still attached to the pump and I can't tell HOW it's attached.
Anyone know the secret handshake to get the suction line to let go of the pump?
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      09-10-2020, 09:04 PM   #3
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This help?

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...supply/OmsXaRA
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      09-11-2020, 01:21 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msan View Post
Much appreciated msan.
I did find that, but it doesn't have any details about the best way to get at that clamp (Item 3).
It is really buried.
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      09-11-2020, 12:03 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davisca455 View Post
Much appreciated msan.
I did find that, but it doesn't have any details about the best way to get at that clamp (Item 3).
It is really buried.
Yeah you are going to have to find a way to get to it and cut it off...

Here's the part if it helps

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...751127#reviews
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      09-11-2020, 12:54 PM   #6
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Maybe disconnect that line from the other end....

If you can't reach #1, then maybe try and disconnect from #2 (not sure how accessible this connection is) or #3 (this connection is under the PS reservoir)

I would "guess" #3 removing the pipe from under the reservoir body is the easiest solution. Although #2 has a bolt that will need to be undone somehow. Link to
bolt
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Last edited by msan; 09-11-2020 at 01:18 PM..
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      09-11-2020, 09:15 PM   #7
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Thanks msan!
I got it.
I didn't realize that the A/C belt tensioner is what the pump was hanging up on.
Once I removed the tensioner, I was able to get at the clamp.
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      09-11-2020, 09:21 PM   #8
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I had to remove the pump mounting bracket (held onto the pump by 3 torx fasteners) in order to wiggle the pump out the bottom of the car.
Slight points deduction against G-Power for their 1 piece intercooler design. Impossible to remove the fan assembly with the intercooler in place. Can't remove the intercooler without pulling the front structure off the car.
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Last edited by Davisca455; 09-11-2020 at 11:48 PM..
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      09-11-2020, 11:51 PM   #9
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After I got the pump out, I removed this fastener and pulled the Suction hose assembly out of the car.
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Last edited by Davisca455; 09-12-2020 at 12:21 AM..
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      09-11-2020, 11:59 PM   #10
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I removed the pump mounting bracket (3 Torx fasteners) from the new pump.
I used a 24.1mm Oetiker clamp to attach the Suction hose assembly to the new pump.
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      09-12-2020, 12:08 AM   #11
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Then was able drop the entire assembly in from above, past the fan.
Wiggled the pump/Suction hose assembly into its approximate place, then re-installed the pump mounting bracket onto the pump with the 3 Torx fasteners, then bolted the pump mounting bracket to the engine.
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      09-12-2020, 10:02 AM   #12
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Installed the new PS fluid reservoir.
Added a -8AN cap onto the return inlet fitting on the reservoir.
Connected the Suction hose to the new reservoir and then followed this flushing procedure:

https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=18425381
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      09-12-2020, 09:27 PM   #13
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Wow you did it without removing the fan!? Props. I did this a few months ago and there is no way I could've without removing the fan.
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      09-13-2020, 12:31 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bartledoo View Post
Wow you did it without removing the fan!? Props. I did this a few months ago and there is no way I could've without removing the fan.
Why would you want to? The fan is a plug and one screw to slide out. I'm down for a challenge but why shoot my self in the foot
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      09-13-2020, 01:37 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bartledoo View Post
Wow you did it without removing the fan!? Props. I did this a few months ago and there is no way I could've without removing the fan.
Oh, I would have taken the fan out if could have!
That is some sharp plastic to be dragging arms and hands across!
I pulled the nose off the car to see what it would take to remove the intercooler.
Once I saw what I was in for, I decided I better try it with the fan in place first.
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      09-13-2020, 06:42 PM   #16
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Lessons Learned:
(just notes to my future self if I had to replace the PS pump again. I didn't do it exactly like this, but if I had to, I'd do it in these steps and in about this order)

1) Order your replacement parts. (Pump, crush washers, reservoir, fittings, clamps, CHF-11S fluid...)

Disassembly:
1) Put the car on jack stands.

2) Remove the front wheels, forward half of each front wheel well liner and the nose of the car. (Keeps all of the felt parts from getting soaked).
Remove the aluminum skid plate (So it won't retain any spilled coolant/PS hydraulic fluid).

3) Open the cap on the expansion tank and drain the radiator (blue plastic drain plug on bottom face of driver's side) into a clean bucket.

4) Remove the rubber boot between the intercooler discharge pipe and intake plenum.

5) Disconnect the water hose end from the expansion tank. (A 2nd bucket for dirty coolant to drain into).

6) Disconnect the lower radiator hose, but only the end at the water pump housing. You can leave the hose end at the passenger side radiator connected. (Move the 2nd bucket for any dirty coolant to drain into).

7) Unclip the radiator hose and expansion tank water hose and tuck them out of the way.
(The radiator hose end nestled between the expansion tank and oil fill cap.)
(The water hose was just folded back towards the drivers side of the car.)
Remove the radiator hose clip from the oil filter housing (from the back side of the clip, there is a small retaining pin. I used a 90 degree pick and pushed the retaining pin toward the front of the car, into the diameter of the clip where the hose would reside. This will release the barb of the clip from the oil filter housing).

8) Remove as much fluid from the PS reservoir as possible (turkey baster/syringe).

9) Disconnect PS pump suction line (4) from the reservoir (use your oil catch pan).
Disconnect the PS cooler return line (24) from the PS reservoir (totally baked on Mofo).
Unclip both lines from each other and under the front of the chassis and let drain into oil catch).

10) Using the belt tensioner, release the water pump and alternator belt. Remove the 4 HHCS that retain the WP pulley.

11) Only loosen the 3 HHCS that retain the PS pump pulley.

12) Using the belt tensioner, release the A/C and PS belt (pull it/fold it toward the drivers side as far as possible.)
Remove the three HHCS that retain the PS pulley to the pump and remove the pulley.

13) Remove the A/C and PS belt tensioner (2 HHCS).
Loosen the A/C and PS stationary idler retaining bolt enough to remove the water pump pulley.
(Sadly, removing the WP pulley is necessary to allow access to the banjo bolt on the pressure line of the PS pump).

14) Remove the HHCS (8).
Remove the banjo bolt (10) and the two crush washers (11) from the pressure port of the PS pump.
Remove the three Torx fasteners that retain the PS pump mounting bracket to the pump.
Remove the three HHCS that retain the PS pump mounting bracket to the engine.
Remove the PS pump/Suction hose assembly.
(It was necessary for me to remove the mounting bracket from the pump in order to wiggle the pump out past the fan assembly)

15) Note the orientation of the suction hose assembly relative to the orientation of the pump.
Remove the clamp (6) that retains the suction hose to the pump and remove the pump from the suction hose.

16) Remove PS pump reservoir (if replacing or cleaning).



Reassembly:
1) Slip the clamp (6) (I used an 24.1mm Oetiker clamp) onto the suction hose and install the suction hose onto the new pump.
Correctly orient the suction hose assembly relative to the pump, prior to tightening the clamp.

2) Loosely install the PS pump/Suction hose assembly past the radiator fan and back into its approximate place.
Loosely install the PS pump mounting bracket onto the pump using the three Torx fasteners.
Loosely install the PS pump mounting bracket onto the engine using three HHCS.
Tighten the three Torx fasteners and the three HHCS.
Install the banjo bolt (10) and the two crush washers (11) onto the pump.
Attach the steel elbow (5) of the suction hose assembly to the chassis using the HHCS (8).

3) Install new (or cleaned) PS pump reservoir.
Route the PS pump suction hose toward the reservoir.
Slip the clamp (I used a 24.1 mm Oetiker) over the hose and attach the hose to its nipple on the reservoir and tighten the clamp.
Cap the return nipple on the reservoir.

4) I followed the process in the thread below with the exception that the reservoir end of my return hose was already detached and laying in my oil catch can. I put a clear plastic lid underneath the hose end so that I could see when clean green fluid stated coming out.

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showth...ge=1&pp=22

5) Route the PS pump return hose back toward the reservoir. Slip the clamp over the hose, attach the hose to the reservoir and tighten the clamp.
Fill the reservoir.
Snap the suction and return hoses back into their respective clips.

6) Install the water pump pulley using the four HHCS. Using the tensioner, reroute and install the WP and alternator belt.

7) Install the A/C and PS pump tensioner using the two HHCS.
Tighten the fastener that retains the fixed idler for the A/C and PS pump belt.
Install the PS pump pulley onto the pump using the three HHCS.
Using the tensioner, reroute and install the A/C and PS pump belt. (I found it easiest to have the last loop be over the A/C pulley).
Tighten the three HHCS that retain the PS pump pulley to the pump.

8) Reattach the radiator hose clip to the oil filter housing.
Reattach the radiator hose end to the water pump housing and clip into place.
Reattached water hose end to the expansion tank and clip into place.
Reinstall the blue radiator drain plug.
Refill cooling system.
Install the intercooler/intake boot.

9) Test: Even though I went thru the PS flushing process and topped off the PS pump reservoir, I wanted to fire the engine and cycle the steering hard stop to hard stop to work out any air that might still be in the system. The level didn't noticeably drop, so 2 thumbs up on the flushing process by Bushum.
I also wanted to run the car to check for any PS fluid or coolant leaks.

10) Reinstall the aluminum skid plate, the nose, fender liners and front wheels. Remove from jack stands, torque the lug bolts, and test drive.
Recheck fluid levels after test drive.
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Last edited by Davisca455; 09-13-2020 at 11:48 PM..
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      09-13-2020, 07:52 PM   #17
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Thanks for the nice notes!! I'm sure I'll use it down the road.
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      09-14-2020, 12:53 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bvrider1 View Post
Thanks for the nice notes!! I'm sure I'll use it down the road.
You're very welcome.
But I hope that you never have to use these notes.

Chris
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      01-04-2021, 02:05 AM   #19
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Hello all,
I picked up a 2011 E90 last month and I am experiencing a power steering leak and I was backing in to a spot and as I was turning hard and the steering started to get stiff/a huge leak of PS fluid. I put it up on jacks yesterday to see if a line had popped off to cause the massive leak. However I did not see anything detached. How could I determine if the pump has failed?
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      01-04-2021, 10:41 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alpine_e90m3 View Post
Hello all,
I picked up a 2011 E90 last month and I am experiencing a power steering leak and I was backing in to a spot and as I was turning hard and the steering started to get stiff/a huge leak of PS fluid. I put it up on jacks yesterday to see if a line had popped off to cause the massive leak. However I did not see anything detached. How could I determine if the pump has failed?
If at all possible, don't run it out of PS fluid, because the pump won't take that for very long.
If you're a DIY type person, all I can think to do is get a friend, get the car into the air, top off the reservoir, and keep it topped off, until you can determine where the leak is coming from, repair the leak, and then see how the pump behaves.
Or, put it on a flatbed and have it towed to a professional.
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      01-13-2021, 04:05 PM   #21
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Thanks for the info! I had the car up last week with someone turning from lock to lock and didn't see any leak on the steering rack and a ton of fluid/grime build up on the PS pump. Just got the new pump in todayand will hopefully be on the car tomorrow.
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      01-16-2021, 04:20 PM   #22
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New pump is on but om still getting a leak I believe its from (10) in the picture above. Does anyone know the torque spec for 10?
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