ESS BPV Adjustment

[Iyzmi]

Can anyone measure the default exposed length of the set screw on the ESS bypass valve? I think a close-up picture would also do the trick. I messed with mine while trying to diagnose a boost leak and would like to set it back to whatever it was direct from ESS.

[Maxf80M3]

Vortech sells the Maxflo bypass to ESS. There are two versions .

Vortech suggest 3 full turns in after it hits the spring plate. MAX 4 turns or you can cause damage. i found better results slightly less then 3 turns.

instructions below. highly doubt ESS will chime in, Id love to see what they suggest.


https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/07...14277669762964

[jdamore]

Hope this helps..

[Iyzmi]

Originally Posted by Maxe93

Vortech sells the Maxflo bypass to ESS. There are two versions .

Vortech suggest 3 full turns in after it hits the spring plate. MAX 4 turns or you can cause damage. i found better results slightly less then 3 turns.

instructions below. highly doubt ESS will chime in, Id love to see what they suggest.


https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/07...14277669762964

When I adjusted it to 3 turns it was making a knocking noise at idle when load from the power steering pump or EVAP system was placed on the engine. I was wondering if ESS may adjust the valve after they receive it from Vortech before they ship it out with their kit.

Originally Posted by jdamore

Hope this helps..

This does help, thank you. This is an older version of the valve than what I have so I wonder if the set screw adjustment is exactly the same.

[Maxf80M3]

Seems like its all the way out, maybe one turn in. i counted 8 threads on the pic. Mine was around 6 threads.

[Iyzmi]

Originally Posted by Maxe93

Seems like its all the way out, maybe one turn in. i counted 8 threads on the pic. Mine was around 6 threads.

Was yours 6 threads when you got it from ESS or after you made adjustments?

[SYT_Shadow]

if you bought the kit from ESS, just call them and ask

[Iyzmi]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

if you bought the kit from ESS, just call them and ask

My kit was purchased used. I did however call them and they appear to be closed today.

[Iyzmi]

I disassembled the valve today to make sure everything inside looked good. No problems. Tightened the set screw down to the recommended 3 turns and I'm still getting the knocking noise at idle when the power steering pump or AC put load on the engine . Took a look inside and noticed when the vacuum pulsations begin under load, the valve vibrates open/closed causing the knock. This pic was taken at idle.



The only way to prevent the knocking is to either tighten the set screw really far, or loosen it to the point where it is not making contact with the plate. I already had the manifold off last weekend and ran a new vacuum line to ensure there were no kinks and redid the T connection so there would be no sharp angles. I'm out of ideas at this point... What could be causing pulsations in vacuum pressure at idle?

[Maxf80M3]

Originally Posted by Iyzmi

I disassembled the valve today to make sure everything inside looked good. No problems. Tightened the set screw down to the recommended 3 turns and I'm still getting the knocking noise at idle when the power steering pump or AC put load on the engine . Took a look inside and noticed when the vacuum pulsations begin under load, the valve vibrates open/closed causing the knock. This pic was taken at idle.



The only way to prevent the knocking is to either tighten the set screw really far, or loosen it to the point where it is not making contact with the plate. I already had the manifold off last weekend and ran a new vacuum line to ensure there were no kinks and redid the T connection so there would be no sharp angles. I'm out of ideas at this point... What could be causing pulsations in vacuum pressure at idle?

If your bypass is the older style with the snap ring . They had very weak spring rates.

I suspect the spring is worn or weak.

[Iyzmi]

Originally Posted by Maxe93

If your bypass is the older style with the snap ring . They had very weak spring rates.

I suspect the spring is worn or weak.

I have the current style, no snap ring.

Took the manifold off again today and plugged the BPV vacuum line into a different spot on the T-fitting. So far no knocking with the set screw tightened 3 turns. Hopefully that does the trick.

[TurboPR]

On what side of the T fitting you connect the valve hose? Make sure is on the straigt side and not on the T side on the T fitting. It sounds like a vacum leack or a pinch hose. 3 to 4 turns on the screw after touch the diafragm will be fine. 3 is factory set. It should leack some air after rev and idle.

Hope this help

[Iyzmi]

Originally Posted by TurboPR

On what side of the T fitting you connect the valve hose? Make sure is on the straigt side and not on the T side on the T fitting. It sounds like a vacum leack or a pinch hose. 3 to 4 turns on the screw after touch the diafragm will be fine. 3 is factory set. It should leack some air after rev and idle.

Hope this help

Actually I did change it to the T side, keeping the stock connection inline. Seems like that limits the vacuum pulsation as the knocking has stopped.

If you look in the ESS instructions for the VT1 kit, they seem to have it one way in the first picture and the other way in the next:



The VT2 kit instructions consistantly show it on the T side:

[TurboPR]

Originally Posted by Iyzmi

Actually I did change it to the T side, keeping the stock connection inline. Seems like that limits the vacuum pulsation as the knocking has stopped.

If you look in the ESS instructions for the VT1 kit, they seem to have it one way in the first picture and the other way in the next:



The VT2 kit instructions consistantly show it on the T side:

Glad to see your problem is solved.