Oil Cooler Drain

[roastbeef]

thats kinda neat, i like that.
the only thing i would have reservations about (might not be an issue at all) is the lack of oil when filling it back up. when you fill the sump, does oil freely flow into it? i know the cooler has a thermostat, and oil doesn't constantly flow through the cooler. so as the car warms up, does it start pushing oil through an empty cooler? and if it does that, does the oil filling up the cooler push the air out and cause cavitation somewhere in the system?

[Davisca455]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

thats kinda neat, i like that.
the only thing i would have reservations about (might not be an issue at all) is the lack of oil when filling it back up. when you fill the sump, does oil freely flow into it? i know the cooler has a thermostat, and oil doesn't constantly flow through the cooler. so as the car warms up, does it start pushing oil through an empty cooler? and if it does that, does the oil filling up the cooler push the air out and cause cavitation somewhere in the system?

I had the same concern.
If it's just a kidney loop that runs off the return side of the circuit, probably not an issue.
But I need to understand the system before deciding to use this thing every oil change.

[Davisca455]

Oil doesn't flow freely into the cooler.
I added oil to the crankcase, checked the drain prior to starting, nothing is flowing into the cooler yet.
Which makes sense I guess, because the oil line would have kept draining after I disconnected it from the oil cooler.

[Davisca455]

Finally did a full oil change.
Drained the oil pan, suctioned out the filter housing and drained the oil cooler.
It took 10-1/2 liters to top off.

[amrazM]

i have the same problem with my csf, the intercooler hits it too, how much lower did you make the tabs?

[Davisca455]

Originally Posted by amrazM

i have the same problem with my csf, the intercooler hits it too, how much lower did you make the tabs?

Short Answer:
Driver's side, 1/2"
Passenger side, 3/8"

Long Answer:
The initial install of the G-Power kit wasn't done with enough care...in my opinion.
The intercooler interfered with the hood, AND, it wasn't level (higher on the driver's side).
To get the intercooler to fit correctly, I first needed to remove the nose/tray assembly as a single unit and the oil cooler.
Once I got the intercooler where I wanted it, I positioned the oil cooler where I wanted it, and made my measurements (I was surprised there was an 1/8" difference in the measurements, but that's what made it level and not bind, so I got over it pretty quickly).
Now that the oil cooler was modified and installed, I reinstalled the nose/tray assembly to the car.
The nose didn't fit correctly anymore, because the oil cooler was so much lower and now interfered with the center tray, so I removed ONLY the front seal strip that seals the center tray to the bottom of the cooler.
The nose/tray assembly fit really well now, the rear sealing strip was good, but there wasn't much gap between the bottom of the oil cooler and the plastic lip of the center tray that the seal strip clips onto.
So I scribed a line on the plastic lip of the tray, that the front sealing strip clips onto, and got the sanding disc out and removed the plastic material up to the scribed line, to create a .100" gap between the plastic and the bottom of the oil cooler.
I made a DIY thin wall sealing strip out of 1/4" (5.5mm ID x 3mm wall) vacuum line by slitting it lengthwise with a fresh razor blade.
Everything fits nice and relaxed and the oil cooler is sealed.

(But because my DIY seal isn't nearly as compliant as the factory seal, I'm sure that if the center tray balloons at high speeds my seal will lose contact with the bottom of the oil cooler. But I think I don't care...until I do care, then I'll remove more material from the center tray and refit the factory seal.)

[MouseMike]

That's neat! Looks oem.

[Davisca455]

Just did another oil change (4000miles and 2 track days).
That's twice in a row that the car took 10-1/2 Liters to top off.