Yet another S65 bites the rod bearings? Looking for suggestions in Pittsburgh area

[mysor3]

I bought a 2011 E92 M3 6MT about a year ago that had clocked 72k miles. I've put about 31k miles ever since. The only mods are a k&n air filter and a manzo cat-back exhaust. Stock otherwise. In my ownership it's never been tracked. I haven't done burnouts/drifts either. It's been driven daily, throughout the year (Michigan winter too). I've put mostly highway miles as I do frequent long road trips. I've done 7-8 back-road spirited drives though. Have had oil-changes done religiously ever 5k miles. Never gone past 3k rpm before warming up (oil temp close to 210F). Last month I drove to Dallas from Pittsburgh (1250 miles) and had a full fluid service done. Engine oil, transmission fluid, diff fluid and PS fluid were replaced. Had valve cover gaskets replaced too. Asked the service tech to check spark plugs if they required replacement as they'd have the valve covers open anyway and they got back to me asking if I'd recently installed a brand new engine. Apparently the insides of the engine looked immaculately clean, as if it'd come right off the factory. I got back to Pittsburgh just fine. Usually, during the cooler periods of the year the oil temps rarely go past 210. In the Texas heat and on the way back though, oil temp was a shade over 210 throughout. I've noticed in the past that the oil temps go over 210 when it's hot (80F +) or with mild-moderate spirited driving but come back down soon. Never seen anything over ~240-ish though. Last week I did some spirited driving around some spectacular back-roads in Virginia. The car performed really well and had absolutely no issues. Oil temps were regularly over 210 during the day but stayed under 210 at night when it was cooler.
Yesterday's when the issues started. Was doing some low-speed driving in Pittsburgh around the block. 1st - 3rd gear driving mostly, under 40-50mph, mostly at 25-30mph. Since it was a warm day (80F +), oil temps were at 230-240F-ish. Nearing my house I red-lined in 1st, hit the rev-limiter (in spite of the 8400rpm red-line, it's so easy in 1st), let off throttle and while trying to shift quickly into 2nd, dumped the clutch (very stupid of me) WOT. The traction control intervened immediately as usual. Instead of the 1-2 second delay when it cuts power, it seemed to cut it throughout 2nd gear. The engine then died abruptly resulting in me losing power steering and the car locked up. Fortunately I was able to bring it to a halt in front of my house. The car wouldn't start back up and smelled of something burning (like plastic/rubber). I thought it was the clutch. There was dripping oil from underneath (near the pan) for a while. It threw codes: A0B4, 278D, 2B61, CDB6 and 2B13). The starter would try to crank but give up with a "zut". 2-3 hours later, when I attempted starting again, it tried to crank (as if it managed to get part crank rotation) and started normally on the 3rd attempt. It sounded okay and maybe had just a tiny bit more ticking noise. It drove okay around the block but the clutch pedal seemed very light. Today I started it again and it sounded okay/normal. At cold start it sounded rough (which has always been the case) and got smooth after cold start. Warmed it up while idling and saw that the oil level was exactly halfway between low and high. Tried to rev it upto 3-4k to notice any kind of noises, when it abruptly died. When I tried starting it again, it made horrible rattling/ticking noises and started, painfully to a rough rattling idle (sounded like it was trying to chew metal bits inside). Shut it off immediately. It seems pretty clear now that I've had a rod bearing failure in my S65. What I'd like to know is, is the engine likely toast too? Is the S65 saveable with a rod bearing replacement?
All the independent BMW repair shops I've contacted in the past (in suburban Detroit and now, Pittsburgh area) have flat out rejected acknowledging the rod-bearing problem and insisted warming up and regular oil changes were sufficient. They would deny it to do it even as a preventative measure, bashing the forums and claiming there wasn't enough data to conclude a rod-bearing issue and that only rare owners ever faced it.
I live in the Pittsburgh area and would appreciate if someone could suggest a repair shop for me. Any advice is highly appreciated.

Thank you!

[br2wdc]

Sorry to hear about your dilemma and I'm curious about a couple of things:
1. Have you confirmed it's a rod bearing (RB) issue? Is it possible it could be something else?
2. Who confirmed it? Clearly you need to steer clear of shops that "flat out rejected acknowledging the rod-bearing problem".
3. How did they confirm it?

I would normally suggest an independent BMW specialty shop to confirm RB spun, but for whatever reason the ones you mentioned are, ummm, misinformed.

The bottom line is you need to get it confirmed, and may have to consider hitting the "nuclear" button: The BMW dealer.

Once it's confirmed you need another engine, you can then check back with independent shops to see about your options. Good luck ...

Originally Posted by mysor3

I bought a 2011 E92 M3 6MT about a year ago that had clocked 72k miles. I've put about 31k miles ever since.

Shut it off immediately. It seems pretty clear now that I've had a rod bearing failure in my S65. What I'd like to know is, is the engine likely toast too? Is the S65 saveable with a rod bearing replacement?

All the independent BMW repair shops I've contacted in the past (in suburban Detroit and now, Pittsburgh area) have flat out rejected acknowledging the rod-bearing problem and insisted warming up and regular oil changes were sufficient. They would deny it to do it even as a preventative measure, bashing the forums and claiming there wasn't enough data to conclude a rod-bearing issue and that only rare owners ever faced it.
I live in the Pittsburgh area and would appreciate if someone could suggest a repair shop for me. Any advice is highly appreciated.

Thank you!

[tdott]

Is oil still leaking out of the engine?

Least you can do is confirm if there is a hole in the block or not. But if there was, no way it would start and run long enough to get warm.

So perhaps you have another issue. Not really much anyone can tell you without hearing it run. It could be rod knock but that still wouldn't explain why there was oil leaking.

Code seems to not give any hints, unless the noise you were hearing were starter related:
278D - radiator outlet temp sensor
A0B4 - Error engine start starter operation, usually starter related
2B61 - Gear Input Speed Sensor/Slipping Clutch
CDB6 - Diagnosis monitors the required torque.
2B13 - Vehicle Speed Sensor 'A'

[SYT_Shadow]

I'm sorry to hear this OP.
Not beating the engine when cold, doing oil changes every 5k miles etc have very little to do with rod bearing failure.

The issue you have now is there are extremely few places that can rebuild a S65 properly. You are probably better off buying a used engine off ebay, getting rod bearings done and then installing it. Then you can sell your broken engine as it probably has parts that can be salvaged, like the heads. Alternatively you can buy a used engine that already has rod bearings done to it from someone like deansbimmer

[mysor3]

Originally Posted by br2wdc

Sorry to hear about your dilemma and I'm curious about a couple of things:
1. Have you confirmed it's a rod bearing (RB) issue? Is it possible it could be something else?
2. Who confirmed it? Clearly you need to steer clear of shops that "flat out rejected acknowledging the rod-bearing problem".
3. How did they confirm it?

I would normally suggest an independent BMW specialty shop to confirm RB spun, but for whatever reason the ones you mentioned are, ummm, misinformed.

The bottom line is you need to get it confirmed, and may have to consider hitting the "nuclear" button: The BMW dealer.

Once it's confirmed you need another engine, you can then check back with independent shops to see about your options. Good luck ...

Haven't been able to confirm yet. This is just my guess at this stage. Have been trying to reach every independent BMW repair shop around the Pittsburgh area. With July 4th around I've been unable to get any response.
The "nuclear" button is only going to be a last resort though

[mysor3]

Originally Posted by tdott

Is oil still leaking out of the engine?

Least you can do is confirm if there is a hole in the block or not. But if there was, no way it would start and run long enough to get warm.

So perhaps you have another issue. Not really much anyone can tell you without hearing it run. It could be rod knock but that still wouldn't explain why there was oil leaking.

Code seems to not give any hints, unless the noise you were hearing were starter related:
278D - radiator outlet temp sensor
A0B4 - Error engine start starter operation, usually starter related
2B61 - Gear Input Speed Sensor/Slipping Clutch
CDB6 - Diagnosis monitors the required torque.
2B13 - Vehicle Speed Sensor 'A'

No oil leaks anymore. I only saw a few drops leaking from under. Hopefully it's not too bad and an other issue. Codes certainly don't make sense. But then, a lot of people seem to not see any codes before an S65 failure.

[mysor3]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

I'm sorry to hear this OP.
Not beating the engine when cold, doing oil changes every 5k miles etc have very little to do with rod bearing failure.

The issue you have now is there are extremely few places that can rebuild a S65 properly. You are probably better off buying a used engine off ebay, getting rod bearings done and then installing it. Then you can sell your broken engine as it probably has parts that can be salvaged, like the heads. Alternatively you can buy a used engine that already has rod bearings done to it from someone like deansbimmer

A very sad day indeed. Used engine seems to be the best option at the moment, if engine failure's confirmed.

[br2wdc]

One other note is there is a regional forum for NY/NJ/CT/PA where you can post your question on Independent shops in the Pittsburgh area, located here:

https://www.m3post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=153

Originally Posted by mysor3

Haven't been able to confirm yet. This is just my guess at this stage. Have been trying to reach every independent BMW repair shop around the Pittsburgh area. With July 4th around I've been unable to get any response.
The "nuclear" button is only going to be a last resort though

[Ngilbe36]

Originally Posted by mysor3

Haven't been able to confirm yet. This is just my guess at this stage. Have been trying to reach every independent BMW repair shop around the Pittsburgh area. With July 4th around I've been unable to get any response.
The "nuclear" button is only going to be a last resort though

The nuclear options should be finding a tree to tow it into.

Sorry to here OP. RIP S65

[mysor3]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

I'm sorry to hear this OP.
Not beating the engine when cold, doing oil changes every 5k miles etc have very little to do with rod bearing failure.

The issue you have now is there are extremely few places that can rebuild a S65 properly. You are probably better off buying a used engine off ebay, getting rod bearings done and then installing it. Then you can sell your broken engine as it probably has parts that can be salvaged, like the heads. Alternatively you can buy a used engine that already has rod bearings done to it from someone like deansbimmer

Have you ever come across e-megatronic, located in Bridgeport, CT? They offer S65 rebuilds and I have been considering it as an option.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by mysor3

Have you ever come across e-megatronic, located in Bridgeport, CT? They offer S65 rebuilds and I have been considering it as an option.

I haven't, no idea. Bemo is close to that area so maybe he knows something about them

[pbonsalb]

I think that is another name for the outfit some people recently questioned.

[Bemo]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

I haven't, no idea. Bemo is close to that area so maybe he knows something about them

The place now has a lift, compared to few months ago, and it's choke full of 911s. They must know what they are doing though I cannot comment on complete engine rebuilds. The price for RBs that I was quoted was $2500 for labor only which was obviously about 200-250% of the going rate.