Track forum general chit chat.

[jmeenach]

Originally Posted by mikerunt

Interested in how these perform:

https://trackdaytire.com/product/hoo...ST_EMAIL_ID%5D

They look they are about $100 less per tire than an R7 at 295 / 18

Curious about these as well. Slightly more expensive than my re71rs in 275/35r18, but they aren't always the easiest to find.

[pirategenes]

Originally Posted by jmeenach

Curious about these as well. Slightly more expensive than my re71rs in 275/35r18, but they aren't always the easiest to find.

+1 super curious about this as I have the same set to benchmark against. I've been very happy with the RE71RS's so far. Looking forward to the comparison reviews.

[Cmassey3]

Hoosier TrackAttack Pro Tested - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPL53ZEEEis

[roastbeef]

cool vid of our local treasure- buttonwillow.

[Bimmer Barney]

So awhile back I posted about a weird knocking noise from the front end. Well after removing and reinstalling the Ohlins 3DM kit with vorshlag plates, checking factory torque spec on every nut on the suspension components and subframe, and replacing sway bar end links, I still had the noise. I replaced the sway bar bushings with OEM and I replaced the tie rods (inner and outer). The sound is gone! I honestly think it was the sway bar bushings because they looked pretty tired and worn, but happy to have a clunk-free front end now with refreshed componentry.

[bipp]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

So awhile back I posted about a weird knocking noise from the front end. Well after removing and reinstalling the Ohlins 3DM kit with vorshlag plates, checking factory torque spec on every nut on the suspension components and subframe, and replacing sway bar end links, I still had the noise. I replaced the sway bar bushings with OEM and I replaced the tie rods (inner and outer). The sound is gone! I honestly think it was the sway bar bushings because they looked pretty tired and worn, but happy to have a clunk-free front end now with refreshed componentry.

I have a similar sound (albeit seems more metal on metal and slightly higher pitched) but only when going over expansion joints and compression events (noise once upwards, noise once downwards). I was told it was end links, which I replaced, and still have the noise. Thanks for posting your resolution! This might be the case for me too.

[gmx]

Strange, I have more of a "squeak" noise rather than clunk and have been thinking it could be ARB bushes.

[Bimmer Barney]

Bought a truck to daily. M is now my Sunday and Track Day driver. Will be nice to baby the M after years of daily driving. No plans to mod more, but we all know how that goes.

Pic of the truck! (Which could hypothetically tow a trailer with a track only car)

2024 Silverado ZR2 with the Duramax

[1FastSicilian]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

So awhile back I posted about a weird knocking noise from the front end. Well after removing and reinstalling the Ohlins 3DM kit with vorshlag plates, checking factory torque spec on every nut on the suspension components and subframe, and replacing sway bar end links, I still had the noise. I replaced the sway bar bushings with OEM and I replaced the tie rods (inner and outer). The sound is gone! I honestly think it was the sway bar bushings because they looked pretty tired and worn, but happy to have a clunk-free front end now with refreshed componentry.

I had this same issue, my sway bar end link was too long and it was hitting my control arm. Shorter arms fixed it.

[bipp]

Originally Posted by bipp

I have a similar sound (albeit seems more metal on metal and slightly higher pitched) but only when going over expansion joints and compression events (noise once upwards, noise once downwards). I was told it was end links, which I replaced, and still have the noise. Thanks for posting your resolution! This might be the case for me too.

Looked into it, probably just a reality of ball joints with end links. IND is sending a new set of rod ends since mine are abnormally loud but not sure what I can do besides possibly go back to stock end links.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by bipp

Looked into it, probably just a reality of ball joints with end links. IND is sending a new set of rod ends since mine are abnormally loud but not sure what I can do besides possibly go back to stock end links.

I’ve been using BW drop links on four cars starting with the first pair in 2010. They’ve all been noise free.

Have you checked for play between the damper piston rod central bolt and camber plate/strut upper mount? Preload the first nut with the weight being supported by the wheels. Once first nut is tight, install the second so it works like a jam nut.

[kolosy]

Long shot, but is anyone with race seats in the Chicagoland area and willing to let me sit in their seat? The closest showroom I can find is in Barrington and I’m in the city (that would be >40 miles on one of the most congested highways in the country for those of you not from ‘round ‘ere)

Trying to figure out what fits me. I’m 5’10 210 and couldn’t get my a** into a normal SPG, but a Pole Position fit well. Need to sit in some seats before I pull the trigger.

[RugbyBro]

Originally Posted by kolosy

Long shot, but is anyone with race seats in the Chicagoland area and willing to let me sit in their seat? The closest showroom I can find is in Barrington and I’m in the city (that would be >40 miles on one of the most congested highways in the country for those of you not from ‘round ‘ere)

Trying to figure out what fits me. I’m 5’10 210 and couldn’t get my a** into a normal SPG, but a Pole Position fit well. Need to sit in some seats before I pull the trigger.

Try a SPG XL if you can find one - it’s like a Pole Position with much better shoulder clearance and a tapered but not tight mid section though depending on your body structure it may still be a bit snug. SPG are a glove like fit in comparison, much too small for your frame (based on stats).

slcook54 has similar stats and likes Racetech seats, so that’s a bother brand to consider.

[roastbeef]

i was chatting with someone on instagram about my plans to use an electric power steering pump and delete the a/c compressor. this eliminates an entire belt on the car, leaving only one belt to drive th water pump and alternator.
the discussion was that one belt with tension in a single direction may increase wear on the main engine bearings. i have to admit that i'm not sure if it does or not. i understand the basic concept, but i'm not sure if the load transfers like that... does anyone have any expertise in this area that can offer some insight?

[mikerunt]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

i was chatting with someone on instagram about my plans to use an electric power steering pump and delete the a/c compressor. this eliminates an entire belt on the car, leaving only one belt to drive th water pump and alternator.
the discussion was that one belt with tension in a single direction may increase wear on the main engine bearings. i have to admit that i'm not sure if it does or not. i understand the basic concept, but i'm not sure if the load transfers like that... does anyone have any expertise in this area that can offer some insight?

Are you using the Volvo electric setup?

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by mikerunt

Are you using the Volvo electric setup?

no. alex miller found a cup car pump that works well and he has put together a kit.

i haven't heard any feedback on the volvo pump. about 3-4 people on instagram have reached out and advised against using the commonly used mercedes pump out of the A class. it runs significantly lower psi than our oem pump and can't keep up for fast corrections. what came up in two separate conversations was that "drift" guys on this platform that went to an electric hydraulic pump are going back to oem. drifting is high angle and fast hands, so obviously that is an issue they don't want to deal with, but who knows what pump they're using.

another cool note about this project- there is a ton of forward weight to lose, and a cool company reached out and offered to make me a custom power pulley without the forward belt track. even less rotating weight!

[mikerunt]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

no. alex miller found a cup car pump that works well and he has put together a kit.

i haven't heard any feedback on the volvo pump. about 3-4 people on instagram have reached out and advised against using the commonly used mercedes pump out of the A class. it runs significantly lower psi than our oem pump and can't keep up for fast corrections. what came up in two separate conversations was that "drift" guys on this platform that went to an electric hydraulic pump are going back to oem. drifting is high angle and fast hands, so obviously that is an issue they don't want to deal with, but who knows what pump they're using.

another cool note about this project- there is a ton of forward weight to lose, and a cool company reached out and offered to make me a custom power pulley without the forward belt track. even less rotating weight!

That’s very cool - any links to purchase or is it still more bespoke?

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by mikerunt

That’s very cool - any links to purchase or is it still more bespoke?

it is not an off the shelf part. i've talked with rogue engineering about several projects on my car. he seems like a genuinely good dude that enjoys talking cars. we were discussing this project and he was kind enough to offer to do the extra work for me. i don't know if he is machining a custom one for me, or modifying existing new stock. the leg work is already done on the pulley, i'm sure if there is enough demand, a batch of pulleys with the foremost belt track lobbed off wouldn't be that big of a deal.
i'll see what kind of a reaction i get when i post an instagram reel or something like that.

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

no. alex miller found a cup car pump that works well and he has put together a kit.

a guy in Austria has this setup on his built S65 he kept blowing PS pumps until they resolved it, guess it took some time to figure out the issues.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe

a guy in Austria has this setup on his built S65 he kept blowing PS pumps until they resolved it, guess it took some time to figure out the issues.

He was using a kit from Alex? I think he has gone through a few iterations.

[kolosy]

how common are single hump dashboards on fleabay? i won't need one until february but seeing a couple for ~$400 all day. is this the going rate or should i jump now?

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

He was using a kit from Alex? I think he has gone through a few iterations.

nah, this was pieced together by a shop in Europe. the reason why they did that, was he used the M3 for "drifting" lol

Originally Posted by kolosy

how common are single hump dashboards on fleabay? i won't need one until february but seeing a couple for ~$400 all day. is this the going rate or should i jump now?

they are just base model 3 series ones you can get all day... E90 might be more expensive but E92 it can be found for less than $400

Dependent on location