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      12-05-2020, 04:22 PM   #1
Vivalabmw
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Unhappy Replaced brake vacuum sensor, still fault code

Hi

Owning a 318i 2011 E90

Got the fault code 002FD3 (brake vacuum sensor, signal)
First time I replaced the sensor with an used one so could I hear the air coming out.
I still had the code and signal showed on my panel after I replaced it.

Yesterday I bought a brand new from BMW store (not cheap) and replaced it. This time no air was coming out and that had me wondering.
Still got the fault code and symbol on panel. No changes on brakes what I've noticed so far.

What could be wrong ?
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      12-05-2020, 05:07 PM   #2
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You cleared the code yes? Vacuum pump?
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      12-05-2020, 06:21 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Helmsman View Post
You cleared the code yes? Vacuum pump?
Yes, cleared the code several times. Still showing up.
I got no codes for vacuum pump. Could it be that one ?
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      12-06-2020, 06:59 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vivalabmw View Post
Yes, cleared the code several times. Still showing up.
I got no codes for vacuum pump. Could it be that one ?
Haven't done this job (but planning for it as some buzz after brake fluid change). Changed sensor only or complete kit with hoses?
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      12-06-2020, 07:31 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vivalabmw View Post
Yes, cleared the code several times. Still showing up.
I got no codes for vacuum pump. Could it be that one ?
Haven't done this job (but planning for it as some buzz after brake fluid change). Changed sensor only or complete kit with hoses? Maybe not snug enough at some connection?
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      12-06-2020, 08:48 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Helmsman View Post
Haven't done this job (but planning for it as some buzz after brake fluid change). Changed sensor only or complete kit with hoses? Maybe not snug enough at some connection?
Only changed the sensor. Thought it would be enought. I don't know what to do anymore.
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      12-06-2020, 10:33 AM   #7
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Normally, the code indicating a bad sensor is 27E4 : Vacuum Sensor Brake Booster Plausibility. The code you list doesn't appear to be that common, and not a lot of info on it. As far as the vacuum sensor issue, it could also be the vacuum pump itself, a leak in a line, a bad check valve, or even the brake booster itself. The most common is definitely the sensor.
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      12-06-2020, 11:54 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vivalabmw View Post
Only changed the sensor. Thought it would be enought. I don't know what to do anymore.
After changed it twice you must be warmed up. Some claim its very tight and tricky. Curious, how much stuff did you remove to get it out/in? All tricks are welcome!

Apparently the pump goes now and then. I'd search around to see if its possible to diagnos/draw conclusions on that. From what understand fairly easy to replace although one wheel and fender liner must comd off.
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      12-06-2020, 02:48 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dpc2u View Post
Normally, the code indicating a bad sensor is 27E4 : Vacuum Sensor Brake Booster Plausibility. The code you list doesn't appear to be that common, and not a lot of info on it. As far as the vacuum sensor issue, it could also be the vacuum pump itself, a leak in a line, a bad check valve, or even the brake booster itself. The most common is definitely the sensor.
This is the only info I got from Carly:
https://ibb.co/f4j3TWH

I perceive it as something wrong when it says 0 V. And that's after the first change of the senor.
I believe you are right. It isn't the sensor it's something else. According to this list for my BMW, everything that has (auto start/stop function) could be the cause of code faulty:

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=PF51-EUR-11-2010-E90N-BMW-318i&diagId=34_1775

This seems to be more difficult than i presumed :-/
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      12-06-2020, 02:51 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Helmsman View Post
After changed it twice you must be warmed up. Some claim its very tight and tricky. Curious, how much stuff did you remove to get it out/in? All tricks are welcome!

Apparently the pump goes now and then. I'd search around to see if its possible to diagnos/draw conclusions on that. From what understand fairly easy to replace although one wheel and fender liner must comd off.
It was easy to replaced it. Watched a guy on youtube how he managed and I only used crowbar to pull it out and push it back gently.

https://youtu.be/kZ9Qw7dZquM

For the vacuum pump replacement there is another great video that demonstrates for the engine N46

https://youtu.be/63Gw7jkit-0
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      12-06-2020, 03:01 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vivalabmw View Post
It was easy to replaced it. Watched a guy on youtube how he managed and I only used crowbar to pull it out and push it back gently.

https://youtu.be/kZ9Qw7dZquM

For the vacuum pump replacement there is another great video that demonstrates for the engine N46

https://youtu.be/63Gw7jkit-0
Realized only now that you drive the standard series. Believe the M3 involve a couple of screws also so different approach.

Thanks anyway!
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      12-06-2020, 03:08 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Helmsman View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vivalabmw View Post
It was easy to replaced it. Watched a guy on youtube how he managed and I only used crowbar to pull it out and push it back gently.

https://youtu.be/kZ9Qw7dZquM

For the vacuum pump replacement there is another great video that demonstrates for the engine N46

https://youtu.be/63Gw7jkit-0
Realized only now that you drive the standard series. Believe the M3 involve a couple of screws also so different approach.

Thanks anyway!
Not to jack his thread Helmsman , but changing the sensor on the M is not so bad. You need a long 1/4 extension, preferably a wobble extension, a long pair of needle nose, an extendable magnet and a long screwdriver to push the hose and sensor over a little for a straighter shot at it. Once you get the torx screws out, leave the wires connected until you pull it up and out. I have done a couple that way in about 30 minutes.
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      12-06-2020, 03:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dpc2u View Post
Not to jack his thread Helmsman , but changing the sensor on the M is not so bad. You need a long 1/4 extension, preferably a wobble extension, a long pair of needle nose, an extendable magnet and a long screwdriver to push the hose and sensor over a little for a straighter shot at it. Once you get the torx screws out, leave the wires connected until you pull it up and out. I have done a couple that way in about 30 minutes.
What would you suggest in my case ?
Planning to sell the car but wanted to fix this small problem that has turned into something unknown.
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      12-06-2020, 03:40 PM   #14
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Do you have any warnings or problems with the start/stop System or dsc? First thing is to check for codes with something better than Carly.
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      12-06-2020, 03:44 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dpc2u View Post
Do you have any warnings or problems with the start/stop System or dsc? First thing is to check for codes with something better than Carly.
Start/stop doesn't work (which I is fine). DSC is working, nothing changed. Brakes work good.
Probably have to but OBD cable for ISTA/INPA for more info
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