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      08-28-2019, 11:23 PM   #23
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Mine was done in 1.5 hours including the blower motor recall. They do not touch anything else. They didn’t even disconnect the battery.

I didn’t get a letter - I took it in for blower motor wiring and found out about it then and after a few wtf’s, authorized the repair and it was done quickly and correctly so far as I can tell

My car has all kinds of wacky stuff done to it. Relax and tell them you’ll stay during the job - customer wait appointments are usually right away no sitting around ogling the car
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      08-28-2019, 11:27 PM   #24
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If you guys have rubber mats, check underneath them- they put mine back on the wrong way and there was torn paper, part of some metal coil and small pieces of plastic that broke off somewhere when I lifted the mat up to fix it...
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      08-28-2019, 11:39 PM   #25
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Funny, my recall notice only described that I could take my car in for a wash while I drive a loaner car and drink a free coffee!
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      09-04-2019, 09:34 PM   #26
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I did get the notice as well. Im kinda hesitant & nervous like some of you thinking they might mess something else up lol
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      09-05-2019, 12:56 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent-GHQ View Post
Ive contemplated about this too. Is it worth the trouble if it isnít broken?
Do you want your car to catch on fire?
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      09-05-2019, 12:36 PM   #28
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I just got this letter two weeks ago for my 7/08 build. Took in last week. Done in 2 hours.
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      09-05-2019, 12:42 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrippy View Post
So it before you have alternator problems. Also you may have alternator problems after FYI. I and 3 friends with our cars had an alternator fail shortly after this recall. 4 people in LA......that I know.....hmmmmm.
local car to me as well just had a alternator failure after getting the recall as well.
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      09-05-2019, 12:52 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Properstyle View Post
local car to me as well just had a alternator failure after getting the recall as well.
How does changing the cable into the fuse box cause the alternator to fail? Seems odd, maybe just a coincidence on the timing
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      09-05-2019, 01:34 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by dardapimp View Post
How does changing the cable into the fuse box cause the alternator to fail? Seems odd, maybe just a coincidence on the timing
I should not have anything to do with it just odd that 3 cars all failed right after getting it lol...
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      09-05-2019, 05:22 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Properstyle View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by dardapimp View Post
How does changing the cable into the fuse box cause the alternator to fail? Seems odd, maybe just a coincidence on the timing
I should not have anything to do with it just odd that 3 cars all failed right after getting it lol...
This is not just a coincidence. Think what you want but it was a direct result of the power cable work. Other folks are having issues with CIC headunits dying after as well. I would assume a few things....

1-The tech is cutting the line with battery still connected and splicing in new wiring to be efficient with time as opposed to execution.
2-The tech is suffering from Parkinson's disease so the reconnection of IBS to battery is chattering before a solid connection is made.

In any case I could care less how they are dropping the ball. Let me be clear that my car is serviced like a proper OCD would so this and my 3 friend failures are not just coincidences. Also another bizarre fact is that the power cable is not being done the same way across vehicles after the work was inspected on my car and the other 3. My vehicle has no splice but whole new positive cable. The point of splice on my friends cars are done at different points. All of this makes me feel like you will be hearing more of these posts as more people have work done. Anyone wanna bet $20?
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      09-05-2019, 06:02 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrippy View Post
This is not just a coincidence. Think what you want but it was a direct result of the power cable work. Other folks are having issues with CIC headunits dying after as well. I would assume a few things....

1-The tech is cutting the line with battery still connected and splicing in new wiring to be efficient with time as opposed to execution.
2-The tech is suffering from Parkinson's disease so the reconnection of IBS to battery is chattering before a solid connection is made.

In any case I could care less how they are dropping the ball. Let me be clear that my car is serviced like a proper OCD would so this and my 3 friend failures are not just coincidences. Also another bizarre fact is that the power cable is not being done the same way across vehicles after the work was inspected on my car and the other 3. My vehicle has no splice but whole new positive cable. The point of splice on my friends cars are done at different points. All of this makes me feel like you will be hearing more of these posts as more people have work done. Anyone wanna bet $20?
I don't want to bet, and I also don't want to get the warranty work done lol. I waited until a couple months ago to get the airbag and blower recall done. I think I'll be waiting even longer on this one.
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      09-05-2019, 06:18 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bartledoo View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrippy View Post
This is not just a coincidence. Think what you want but it was a direct result of the power cable work. Other folks are having issues with CIC headunits dying after as well. I would assume a few things....

1-The tech is cutting the line with battery still connected and splicing in new wiring to be efficient with time as opposed to execution.
2-The tech is suffering from Parkinson's disease so the reconnection of IBS to battery is chattering before a solid connection is made.

In any case I could care less how they are dropping the ball. Let me be clear that my car is serviced like a proper OCD would so this and my 3 friend failures are not just coincidences. Also another bizarre fact is that the power cable is not being done the same way across vehicles after the work was inspected on my car and the other 3. My vehicle has no splice but whole new positive cable. The point of splice on my friends cars are done at different points. All of this makes me feel like you will be hearing more of these posts as more people have work done. Anyone wanna bet $20?
I don't want to bet, and I also don't want to get the warranty work done lol. I waited until a couple months ago to get the airbag and blower recall done. I think I'll be waiting even longer on this one.
I'd say get the recall done but have your advisor make a note on the ticket you sign when you leave keys that says "no system errors present or equipment issue prior to work. If a system error is present please inform me before work takes place". This should cover you. Then if you have an issue shortly thereafter you will at least have a pot to piss in.
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      09-05-2019, 10:28 PM   #35
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Im having my blower motor and power system recalls done next week. I currently have an e85 tune on the car. Does anyone know if the dealer flashes the latest ecu update? i am worried they dealer will flash over the tune and screw it up.
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      09-05-2019, 11:35 PM   #36
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Pretty sure they just cut and replace the cable and get you on your way.
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      09-06-2019, 06:47 PM   #37
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ok. Anyone know what they do to replace the blow motor wiring. Do they usually remove all the intake plenum?
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      09-07-2019, 12:01 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrippy View Post
This is not just a coincidence. Think what you want but it was a direct result of the power cable work. Other folks are having issues with CIC headunits dying after as well. I would assume a few things....

1-The tech is cutting the line with battery still connected and splicing in new wiring to be efficient with time as opposed to execution.
2-The tech is suffering from Parkinson's disease so the reconnection of IBS to battery is chattering before a solid connection is made.

In any case I could care less how they are dropping the ball. Let me be clear that my car is serviced like a proper OCD would so this and my 3 friend failures are not just coincidences. Also another bizarre fact is that the power cable is not being done the same way across vehicles after the work was inspected on my car and the other 3. My vehicle has no splice but whole new positive cable. The point of splice on my friends cars are done at different points. All of this makes me feel like you will be hearing more of these posts as more people have work done. Anyone wanna bet $20?
Suffering from the same symptoms - already ordered alternator via ECS.

Is there a way to escalate this to BMW NA? It's ridiculous; all of the symptoms the recall notice stated, I only started getting after this recall.

Took it back to dealer and I'm getting a proper yank on this - luckily no additional charge to diagnose but man they ripped my kick panel and replaced with screws - it's absurd.

The other night I'm on the highway cruising only to be blinded by a Charger scat-pack. Quickly downshifted (because racecar) and Christmas lights in my dash, headlights cut in and out, and I may or may not have leaked a little.

Got home fine but alternator should be here Monday.
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      09-07-2019, 12:44 PM   #39
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Did the recall 3 weekends ago on my 09 E90 M3.
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      09-09-2019, 09:06 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwm3s65 View Post
ok. Anyone know what they do to replace the blow motor wiring. Do they usually remove all the intake plenum?
For the blower motor, all work is done under the dashboard.
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      09-09-2019, 11:02 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrippy View Post
This is not just a coincidence. Think what you want but it was a direct result of the power cable work. Other folks are having issues with CIC headunits dying after as well. I would assume a few things....

1-The tech is cutting the line with battery still connected and splicing in new wiring to be efficient with time as opposed to execution.
2-The tech is suffering from Parkinson's disease so the reconnection of IBS to battery is chattering before a solid connection is made.

In any case I could care less how they are dropping the ball. Let me be clear that my car is serviced like a proper OCD would so this and my 3 friend failures are not just coincidences. Also another bizarre fact is that the power cable is not being done the same way across vehicles after the work was inspected on my car and the other 3. My vehicle has no splice but whole new positive cable. The point of splice on my friends cars are done at different points. All of this makes me feel like you will be hearing more of these posts as more people have work done. Anyone wanna bet $20?
Can't comment about the workmanship of your dealer but I can provide alot of detail on the power cable.

My first 2011 E90 M3 had the intermittent power issue and the car actually stranding me several times even thought battery and alternator had no issues. Got so bad it was towed to the dealership and by luck did not have power when they got it. BMW at the time said the recall for other 3 series did not apply to the M3 which did not make sense. Lucky the car was under full warranty still so they had to cover it.

The issue is that corrosion builds in the cable and actually works its way down the cable. The initial recall for 3 series was to replace the entire cable. I assume this was a very expensive repair as the battery is in the trunk.

The revised procedure was to cut the cable closer to the fuse box but I believe they did this to make the procedure quicker and cheaper. They cut in different spots as the corrosion works it way down the cable so assume the longer the issue is, the further the cut they make.

On my next 2011 E90 M3 they cut the cable short and did not replace the whole cable.

In terms of repair, the instructions states to disconnect the power. Not sure even if I was trying to short cut the repair that you would attempt to cut the cable without removing power first. The cable is thick, the crimp to connect the new one is large. It would open the installer to alot of risk of electrocuting oneself compared to the simple job of disconnecting the power which is very easy on the e90 compared to the previous generations.

What I suspect with some of these poor repairs is the crimping of the new cable. If I had a choice, I would prefer an entire new cable, less risk of connection issues as you don't need to rely on a crimp connection which I believe can be poorly done but then you risk poor reinstallation of the interior parts that are removed to install the new cable.
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      09-10-2019, 12:18 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by anselmw View Post
Can't comment about the workmanship of your dealer but I can provide alot of detail on the power cable.

My first 2011 E90 M3 had the intermittent power issue and the car actually stranding me several times even thought battery and alternator had no issues. Got so bad it was towed to the dealership and by luck did not have power when they got it. BMW at the time said the recall for other 3 series did not apply to the M3 which did not make sense. Lucky the car was under full warranty still so they had to cover it.

The issue is that corrosion builds in the cable and actually works its way down the cable. The initial recall for 3 series was to replace the entire cable. I assume this was a very expensive repair as the battery is in the trunk.

The revised procedure was to cut the cable closer to the fuse box but I believe they did this to make the procedure quicker and cheaper. They cut in different spots as the corrosion works it way down the cable so assume the longer the issue is, the further the cut they make.

On my next 2011 E90 M3 they cut the cable short and did not replace the whole cable.

In terms of repair, the instructions states to disconnect the power. Not sure even if I was trying to short cut the repair that you would attempt to cut the cable without removing power first. The cable is thick, the crimp to connect the new one is large. It would open the installer to alot of risk of electrocuting oneself compared to the simple job of disconnecting the power which is very easy on the e90 compared to the previous generations.

What I suspect with some of these poor repairs is the crimping of the new cable. If I had a choice, I would prefer an entire new cable, less risk of connection issues as you don't need to rely on a crimp connection which I believe can be poorly done but then you risk poor reinstallation of the interior parts that are removed to install the new cable.
I was like you with my 2011 E90 M3 in that it left me stranded. Sucked and I paid a shop to replace the whole cable. Was not cheap.

I would point out that replacing the whole cable has a downside in that it doesn't have the updated connector that screws the connector tight to the fuse box. The new "cut and crimp " cable has the new screw connector.
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      09-10-2019, 12:25 AM   #43
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Thank you for the heads up, I just got my M3 and I wasn't aware of this for my 13.
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      09-10-2019, 02:17 PM   #44
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I recommend that those of you getting this done at the dealer check their work. Scrappy is on the money regarding the poor workmanship on these repairs. Hereís a link to my experience :

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpo...44&postcount=9
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