SOLVED: Limp mode - Throttle body actuators - Gear broke

[atruelunatic]

With the cold weather, I think my battery is starting to give lower charge. Every so often I'll get, "Increased battery discharge". Today my windows frosted over overnight, so I had to sit in my car and let the defroster run for a while until the windows defrosted. After ~0.7 mi of driving, I go into limp mode and pull up some codes:

00CDB7 - Embassy 0x326 (EDC reception status)
002739 - Air mass meter secondary air electrical diagnostic
002B15 - Throttle controller monitoring Bank 1
002B57 - Engine emergency program activated
002B21 - Throttle pre-drive check bank 1

005E19 - CAN DME / DDE, engine torque not adjustable

00A559 - KL30g f shutdown

I cleared the codes and ran the diagnostics again and got the following:

00CDB7 - Embassy 0x326 (EDC reception status)
005E19 - CAN DME / DDE, engine torque not adjustable
00A8C6 -Daytime running right defective
00A8C5 -Daytime running light defective

but still in limp mode and can't get out of limp mode. Shop won't be able to see it until Thursday so thinking if I should try some things in the meantime.

Car is 106,000 mi. I just replaced both throttle body actuators at 101,000 miles. Can it really be dead again that fast?

I have coilovers and coded out EDC, so I don't consider those codes to be an issue.



What would your guys' approach be? I don't like the sound of ~$120/hr for labor

Battery was replaced ~1.5 years ago at 98,000 mi.

The car is parked outside and temps today were ~33F.

[atruelunatic]

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1038570 came up with the 02739. I'll have to give this hose a look over to see if it's damaged.

[atruelunatic]

Also just realized that I only replaced bank 2 throttle actuator. It's likely the other TA is bad now.

Reading the codes now, makes a lot more sense since it's failing the initial TA open/close check when the car first turns on and immediately goes into limp mode.

The 002739 is a weird one, hopefully that's just a byproduct of the TA going bad and will clear itself once the TA is replaced. Will chime back in for documentation's sake.

[Zertag01]

Atruelunatic you have to replace both throttle actuator, the same thing happened to me, under warranty BMW replace bank 2 then several weeks latter the same problem so I took it back to BMW, they replace bank 1. PS BMW new they should have replace both

[atruelunatic]

Originally Posted by Zertag01

Atruelunatic you have to replace both throttle actuator, the same thing happened to me, under warranty BMW replace bank 2 then several weeks latter the same problem so I took it back to BMW, they replace bank 1. PS BMW new they should have replace both

My first TA went bad at ~101,000 miles. I tried replacing the gears and a mosfet that people have attributed to failure, but didn't work. Bought a new TA for bank 2 and just replaced the TA gears for Bank 1. Mind you, this is all DIY.

Bank 1 failed at ~106,000 miles. Got the TA back and opened it up, the replacement gear I put in broke at the shaft to gear interface. The temps have been low 30's in the morning. I wonder if it's due to temperature or if the throttle valves somehow got bound on something and it tried to open/close them and then broke.



EDIT: Spoke with the manufacturer and they mentioned that I should have pinned the gear. They also have newer generation gears that have improvements such as extra ribs as well as additional injection points.

[Zertag01]

atruelunatic...I also purchase the gear on line and replace them in my M3 Bank 1 and Bank 2 Throttle body actuators, It didn't work for me because the problem was the mossfet on the board that's bad. Then I contacted BMW warranty and they replace them. https://youtu.be/ilwA-NrJE-s[/url]